This is an expanded and serialised version of the article that first appeared in the JNA January-February 2023 issue.

As JNA enters its fourth decade, it examines the market-shaping developments that will influence the course of the gem and jewellery industry moving forward. This eighth instalment looks at changing design and retail codes for jewellery.

 

34. Vintage rules

The hold of the past remains strong as antique and vintage jewellery pieces continue to captivate the market.

Smaller and wearable designs are particularly in demand. Proving the timelessness of truly exceptional design, vintage-inspired pieces also move well, with Art Deco patterns, fine enamel work and chunky retro styles bridging the past and the present.

Vintage designs such as cameos, coins, Victorian styles are growing in appeal among younger consumers who appreciate both the sense of fashion and nostalgia these pieces exude.  

Italian jeweller Ofir has been enjoying great success with its signature line of original antique coin jewellery in 18-karat gold, owner Manuel Vaccari told JNA at Jewellery & Gem WORLD Singapore last September.  

Mod earrings, bold cuffs and personalised items such as monograms are also catching the fancy of jewellery lovers today.
 

 

35. Jewellery styles

Ear jewellery dominated the Covid-19 era of digital meetings. As in-person interactions return, styles are bolder and more expressive.

Brooches provide a pop of colour and character. Men are expanding their watch, chain and bracelet tandem with pearl necklaces, silver or platinum earrings, diamond ear studs and fancy brooches. And gender-fluid designs break down barriers of style and tradition.

The 2023 Oscars saw leading actors such as Michael B. Jordan and Brendan Fraser hit two birds with one stone as they sported brooches that reflected their varying degrees of flamboyance. 

US jeweller Remy Rotenier has a new jewellery brooch collection, Remanimals, which features miniature hand-painted portraits of animals dressed up to the nines.

Suitable for men and women, the portrait brooches are framed in sterling silver set with diamonds and with 22-karat gold bezels. A baguette diamond is set on the back while a round one lies next to the artist's signature.

Many recent releases by designers and manufacturers include splendid pieces that can be worn as either a pendant or a brooch.

The expansion of men’s jewellery into more categories could be exemplified by Tiffany & Co’s recent appointment of Jimin, a member of the popular Korean group BTS, as its latest brand ambassador for luxury jewellery.
 

 

36. Cross-sectoral collaborations

Jewellery is expanding its horizons, with collaborations in different lifestyle spaces such as fashion, NFTs and art.

Hong Kong-based jewellery brands Nalas and Moochacha, which draw inspiration from celebrated paintings for its jewellery designs, work closely with museums and galleries 

Not only are jewellery designs influenced by trends in these sectors, such relationships are deepened by fashion-label pop ups in jewellery stores, fine art-inspired jewellery collections and concert tie-ups for client loyalty programmes, among others.

Select jewellery brands are also finding a home in concept stores with curated themes.

 

View the earlier instalments of this series here.