Opaque gemstones are steadily gaining traction in the jewellery industry, thanks to their full-bodied colours and associated symbolic meaning.

An opaque gemstone is a type of gem that does not allow any light to pass through, resulting in a high-colour density appearance. Classic examples include turquoise, onyx, malachite, agate and lapis lazuli, among others, which are celebrated for their vibrant hues and intricate patterns.

According to industry players, buyers are paying more attention to coloured gems, opaque varieties included, amid a slowdown in the diamond market. This is part of a wider trend towards individuality, versatility and emotional value. Buyers are increasingly drawn to unique pieces that tell a story or evoke a sense of connection, making opaque gemstones an attractive choice.

Distinctive designs

Riding on this trend, luxury jewellery brands are introducing a greater variety of contemporary designs with opaque gems as scintillating accents or eye-catching centrepieces. Malachite, for instance, has been front and centre in fine jewellery collections of late, with the gem’s distinctive deep green colour and intricate patterns adding a touch of modern elegance and vitality to the pieces.

An example is Van Cleef & Arpels’ Lucky Animals Snake clip featuring a custom-cut malachite. 

Mouawad, for its part, shone the spotlight on opaque gems in its latest Wings of Wonder Collection. Inspired by the beauty of butterflies, the collection features 18-karat gold rings, bracelets, earrings and pendants with diamonds and a variety of opaque gems including mother-of-pearl, red agate, turquoise and malachite.

Evolving trends

According to Hong Kong-based jewellery designer Chantel Shafie, black gained popularity in 2024 with the emergence of onyx or stones with darker tones in high-end jewellery collections. “Onyx is incredibly versatile. I see onyx jewellery pieces being worn in various occasions, from elegant evenings to relaxed outings,” said Shafie.

Theresa Ling of Hong Kong jewellery manufacturer Omnia Jewellery agreed, adding that the combination of onyx with diamonds is quite trendy.

“Onyx and diamonds create a striking contrast without overshadowing each other. The deep black colour of onyx enhances the brilliance of diamonds, exuding a sense of elegance. Our clients respond positively to our onyx and diamond necklaces and rings,” said Ling.
 

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