This article first appeared in the JNA March/April 2024 issue.

The gem and jewellery industry is witnessing a changing of the guards, with a fresh crop of younger yet equally determined, committed, proven and highly capable industry players taking on key leadership roles in trade organisations. Notably encouraging is the growing number of women who are occupying top industry positions and playing a pivotal role in setting the agenda.

Feriel Zerouki - President, World Diamond Council

In May 2023, De Beers Group Senior Vice President of Corporate Affairs Feriel Zerouki took over the reins of the World Diamond Council (WDC) from industry luminary Edward Asscher.

By then, she had under her belt three years as WDC vice president and almost two decades as a leading advocate for enhancing standards and driving progress within the diamond industry in her various roles at De Beers. Aside from building a set of ethical standards covering business, social and environmental issues, Zerouki had helped initiate Tracr to provide traceability and provenance for the diamond sector and GemFair to support the formalisation of the artisanal diamond mining sector.

She now brings her drive for fairness and social justice in the diamond trade to a wider platform, noting that WDC can play a uniting role within the Kimberley Process (KP), partly since its membership crosses geographic and industry lines.

The first woman to lead the council, she pursues the longstanding WDC campaign to expand the definition of conflict diamonds. Also foremost on her agenda are responsible Environmental, Social and Governance (ESG) practices in the jewellery supply chain. Her continued focus on the plight of artisanal miners and independent diamond traders is informed by her pledge that “no one in the diamond trade is left behind.”

In a WDC statement, Zerouki said, "Our underlying belief is that we must do all that is necessary to defend the integrity of our supply chain, ensuring that natural diamonds meet their potential as an agent for sustainable economic and social development, wherever they are mined, recovered, processed or traded."

WDC membership ballooned by 62 per cent in 2023, underscoring the council’s relevance and importance in the global diamond trade.

Melanie Grant - Executive Director, Responsible Jewellery Council

Melanie Grant joined the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) in January 2023, taking on the gargantuan task of righting the association after a tumultuous year that saw an exodus of members – and its leadership – over perceived inaction on Alrosa’s membership after the outbreak of the Ukraine-Russia war in February 2022.

Grant, a jewellery journalist and curator, immediately moved to ensure RJC could act efficiently and effectively on issues that could create reputational risk. She also facilitated greater dialogue around the sustainability of jewellery at a time when the Environmental, Social and Governance (ESG) conversation reached fever pitch.

Last July, RJC launched its first-ever ESG toolkit to help members strengthen their sustainability agenda by explaining prevailing ESG reporting frameworks and standards in the jewellery market.

“Modern consumers are increasingly holding brands accountable for their global impact, actively engaging with them to understand transparency and the positive impacts of sustainability,” Grant noted. “Consumer confidence is critical for the industry. RJC standards and certification allow member companies to demonstrate their commitment to responsible business and sustainability.”

RJC will introduce its first standard for lab-grown diamonds this year after extensive consultation with the trade.

Grant also cites diversity, inclusion, the impact of climate on supply chains, and new technology such as artificial intelligence and blockchain as current areas of RJC research.

At press time, she was leading the council’s search for a new chairman and had just launched the first RJC playlist on Spotify.

Joanna Park-Tonks - President, International Grown Diamond Association

Joanna Park-Tonks, who became president of the International Grown Diamond Association (IGDA) in January 2023, takes a level-headed view of lab-grown diamond (LGD) matters. She acknowledges the sector’s challenges in pricing and sustainability, while reaffirming its rightful place in the jewellery industry. Her presidency thus centres on the three Rs: Relationships, Research and Representation.

Describing LGDs as the “product of manmade brilliance,” Park-Tonks, who established LGD jewellery brand Chelsea Rocks in 2018, believes that the accurate, fair and transparent dissemination of information is key to establishing the sector’s credibility.

At IGDA, she has collaborated with the World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO) on developing industry standards, operating principles and LGD terminology; launched a jewellery design competition; and supported retailers and IGDA members in promoting consumer choice by providing marketing assets to properly present LGDs to the public.

Another priority is establishing properly referenced growth projections on the LGD sector. “More compelling than looking at charts, statistics and graphs is understanding the power of collective voice. The possibilities are endless if we work together diligently to prevent challenges like ever-decreasing prices and value erosion,” she remarked.

Park-Tonks also advocates for more creative storytelling around LGD jewellery. “Our category has a fascinating story but there may have been too much focus on the technology and how LGDs are produced. Diamonds are the ultimate expression of love. We need to flow that creativity, love and passion into new designs,” she said, adding that LGDs’ lower price points accommodate greater whimsy and experimentation in design.

This story is part of a series of ‘New Era of Leaders’ profiles in JNA March-April 2024. Click here to view the other profiles.