Functionality and versatility have become influential trends in the jewellery trade as buyers increasingly favour pieces that adapt to modern lifestyles and serve multiple purposes beyond adornment.

Modifiable jewellery that can be worn in various ways has been around for centuries and is considered a pinnacle of haute joaillerie. Legendary jewellery houses and next-generation designers alike regularly come up with design innovations that continue to revolutionise the luxury jewellery sector.

In 1938, high-end jeweller Van Cleef & Arpels introduced the Passe-Partout necklace – one of the first transformable pieces it had pioneered – which was clearly ahead of its time.

Van Cleef & Arpel's Zip necklace design
 

It features a system of metal rails, hidden by two gem-studded flower clips, that allows a pliable yellow gold chain to slide in and out, effectively converting the piece into a necklace, choker, bracelet or even a belt. The clips may be worn as is or as ear clips.

In the 1950s, Van Cleef & Arpels upped the ante with the invention of the Zip necklace, which as the name suggests, was inspired by a mundane zipper. Touted as the brand’s most iconic creation, the Zip necklace was surprisingly the brainchild of Duchess of Windsor Wallis Simpson who in 1938 first mentioned the idea to the maison’s then artistic director. The necklace was only made in 1950 but remains a distinctive component of the jewellery house’s design philosophy.

In recent history, the Covid-19 pandemic also gave rise to a new generation of buyers who wanted to look for ways to accessorise in the new normal. At the time, jewellers felt the need to redefine functionality by creating, for instance, a fashionable “mask jewellery” with bejewelled chains that can also support sunglasses or be worn as a necklace or bracelet.

When Apple Inc launched AirPods in 2016, jewellery designers like Delfina Delettrez and Suhani Parekh also ventured into the wearable tech market by embellishing AirPods with gemstones and chains to create earrings that hold the pods in place. New York City-based jewellery designer Brent Neale Winston’s “Secret Keeper” pendant in a tube-like, elongated design meanwhile doubles as a place to hide notes or secrets.

Non-jewellers also jumped on the wearables bandwagon. Acer produced prayer beads while French fragrance house Diptyque launched scented charm bracelets.

Such ancillary functions have since changed the way buyers interact with jewellery, Maia Adams, co-founder of jewellery market intelligence consultancy Adorn Insight, said in a previous interview. Jewellery is being worn in more imaginative ways – across the body, or attached to belts and mobile phones, and not just on the ears, wrist or neck.

Functional jewellery may also include transformable pieces that offer several style possibilities. An example of this is Boucheron’s high jewellery diamond piece, “Ruban Diamants,” which can be used as a bracelet, belt or necklace.

Light Rays Crown Ring from De Beers' Alchemist of Light High Jewellery Collection
 

Other inventive diamond pieces that made headlines were from the Light Rays set of De Beers’ iconic Alchemist of Light High Jewellery Collection. Many of the pieces in the set are transformable, with detachable elements offering flexibility of expression.

The Light Rays Collar Necklace, for instance, showcases a 4.22-carat fancy brownish yellow diamond, amplified by tapered white diamonds and metal rays in anodised titanium and black rhodium-plated gold. The black collar can be detached for a more minimalist statement.

Meanwhile, the Light Rays Crown Ring is embellished with a 1.08-carat fancy vivid yellow emerald-cut centre diamond and 2.93 carats of diamonds set in rose gold, black rhodium-plated white gold and titanium. The jacket beneath the central ring can be worn alone. 

Versatility and multifunctionality also dominated the coloured gemstone and pearl universe. 

Gübelin Jewellery’s Coral Blossom piece is a unique jewellery piece that can be worn in three different ways: As a brooch, necklace or cocktail ring.

This breathtaking piece features a 5.01-carat Burmese sapphire, with a dazzling ruby in an especially prominent place – it seems to float between two red gold elements set with sapphires or tourmalines. Coral Blossom, which took 350 hours to make, is a homage to the colourful and varied Mergui Archipelago off the coast of Burma.

“With Coral Blossom, Gübelin Jewellery perpetuates the history and tradition in an innovative and inspired way,” the jeweller said. “This jewellery can be worn in three attractive ways. Whether as a brooch, necklace or cocktail ring, it allows its wearer to choose the version that fits their style as well as the occasion.”
 

The Waves by Wallace Chan
 

Design virtuoso Wallace Chan has an expansive line of transformable pieces, which mostly double as a brooch and a sculpture. There are fascinating masterpieces, however, that truly push the boundaries of creativity and functionality.

The Waves, launched in 2017, is adorned with tsavorite garnets, white and yellow diamonds, pink sapphires, amethyst and blue topaz stones, crystal and citrines. Mimicking a butterfly in motion, the extraordinary jewellery is set in titanium.

According to the designer, the seemingly singular creation can transform into eight different pieces – from an ornate brooch to an elegant necklace or a simple, delicate bracelet. The tsavorite garnet forming the butterfly’s body can be detached from the wings.

Meanwhile, the Dream Within a Dream transformable necklace in titanium, features Chan's groundbreaking invention, “The Wallace Chan Porcelain,” unveiled in November 2018. The proprietary porcelain is said to be five times stronger than steel and essentially shatterproof.

The double-strand necklace is adorned with a 96.71-carat emerald centrepiece and a 74.35-carat pear-shaped aquamarine with the finest South Sea pearls, emeralds, green tourmalines and diamonds. The modular design allows the wearer to enjoy the necklace in numerous ways by reconfiguring its components – the gems can be detached and reassembled to create many distinct styles. 

    
The Dream Within a Dream necklace by Wallace Chan

JGW & JNA: 42 Years, 42 Stories is an online series running throughout 2025 to celebrate the 42nd anniversary of Jewellery & Gem WORLD Hong Kong and JNA. A new story of creativity, craftsmanship and innovation will be released every week. Subscribe to free JNA News Alerts to be notified when the next story is out.