This article first appeared in the Pearl Report 2025-2026.

Pearls have undergone a dramatic reinvention over the years, from conservative classics to bold and contemporary statements. Their timeless allure and novel versatility now captivate younger generations seeking fresh jewellery designs. Once viewed as traditionally feminine, pearls enter a new era as designers push creative boundaries.

World of whimsy

London-based Swiss jeweller Cora Sheibani is known for her whimsical designs and imaginative use of materials. With a background in art, her approach is sculptural and often jovial, incorporating unconventional elements like anodised aluminium in her work.

Her latest collection, Skin Deep, marks Sheibani’s first foray into cultured pearls – gems that she describes as possessing a subtle glow and lustre combined with a calm, commanding aura. Skin Deep features Akoya, Edison and Tahitian pearls in a variety of colours, from warm peach and luminous grey, silver and golden tones to soft greens.

Sheibani established her namesake fine jewellery brand in 2002. “I design pieces that I would wear every day. These are high-quality jewellery that are far from ostentatious,” explained Sheibani. “Pearls, especially the softer, more organic ones in this collection, lend themselves naturally to this philosophy. Their subtle beauty complements the idea of understated luxury.”

White/Space, a jewellery brand founded in 2016 and based in Los Angeles, also adheres to a minimalist philosophy. Founder and designer Khadijah Fulton is drawn to the pearl’s versatility and unique lustre.

According to her, pearls possess a serene elegance that is not present in other gemstones while their diverse shapes and colours offer countless styling possibilities.

Fulton aims to surprise and engage her audience by offering the unexpected. She enjoys introducing unusual elements that challenge traditional perceptions. “I design for individuals who have a strong sense of self and appreciate an interplay of boldness and subtlety in jewellery designs,” she added.

Melinda Zeman, who founded her Hong Kong-based jewellery brand Boochier in 2019, is also offering new design iterations with her avant-garde pieces. “Nothing I do is ‘classic’ in the traditional sense, so I enjoy mixing and matching in unpredictable ways. I want people to have fun with their jewellery,” remarked Zeman.

The brand’s B-Boy Collection, for instance, offers a playful, contemporary reinterpretation of the traditional pearl necklace, blending childhood nostalgia with the bold, street-style energy of 1990s hip-hop.

It exemplifies the brand’s signature aesthetic: Contrasting the softness of pearls with more masculine elements like chunky gold chains, enamel beads and diamonds.

“I have always loved pearls,” shared Zeman. “But I enjoy using them in ways that feel playful, personal and slightly daring – like a stunning strand with a splash of colour that takes you from day to night. I love colours as well.”

This creative approach caters to clients who share her vision and those seeking jewellery that breaks conventions. Zeman’s non-conforming designs likewise offer a glimpse into what she is passionate about – nostalgia, 90s music and childhood.

Pearl imperfection

Diversity and exceptionality are also dominant themes in the designers’ work. Zeman, for instance, is partial to the silver metallic tones of Tahitian pearls and the iridescent hues of Akoya and South Sea pearls.

She often experiments with scale and shape, mixing different-sized pearls within a single strand. “I generally lean towards round pearls, but I have a soft spot for baroques,” she added.

Sheibani mixes colours and sizes too, juxtaposing rounds with baroques and mabé pearls alongside lustrous metals. The pearl’s organic softness contrasts with polished metals to create a striking interplay between fluidity and structure.

Meanwhile, clean and effortless refinement defines White/Space’s design aesthetic. Pearl studs get a twist with perfectly imperfect flecks while the classic necklace is given a fresh spin with the Dario design, where pearls in varying sizes create a fluid silhouette.

The raw beauty of baroque pearls takes centre stage in Fulton’s designs, with the pearls’ irregular shape becoming symbols of individuality.

“They are reminders of the beautiful imperfections and uniqueness of each one of us,” she noted. Fulton’s creative process is guided by the pearl itself, with each design shaped by how she envisions the piece being worn.

Design and sustainability

Pearl farming, when conducted responsibly, can be a net positive for the environment. Oysters act as natural water filters, improving water quality and benefiting the surrounding ecosystem.

Sheibani has been sourcing certified and sustainable gold for many years and her recent focus on pearls stems from the same values. Pearl cultivation depends on clean, healthy water systems, making it inherently tied to environmental stewardship.

“Choosing pearls, particularly freshwater ones, feels like a natural continuation of these principles,” she said.

Zeman, for her part, also places a premium on sustainable and ethical business practices, adding that she supports companies that are transparent and share her values. For Fulton, sustainability also extends beyond environmental responsibility. She partners with independently verified and accredited material suppliers that recirculate gold, uphold rigorous ethical standards and source majority of their diamonds from reclaimed origins.

Future of pearls

Pearls in Sheibani’s Skin Deep Collection are untested as an integral part of the design concept. According to the designer, the pearls did not undergo laboratory testing for treatments or enhancements.

“That was intentional – a quiet act of respect and embracing authenticity in materials and mindset, and a celebration of what might be only Skin Deep,” she continued. To address potential quality concerns, Sheibani focuses on building strong relationships with trusted, established suppliers.

For Fulton, consistent sourcing has been a challenge over the last three years, mainly due to high prices and declining quality. Unconventional colours, which figure extensively in her collections, can be scarce, which makes it harder to scale a product offering.

Pearls have risen in popularity over the years and this trend is expected to gain further traction.

Sheibani sees a clear shift in perception, adding that all pearl types possess unique hues and textures. This diversity adds character and story to the jewellery and further celebrates individuality.

Fulton shares a similarly optimistic view as more consumers embrace pearls. “I am just happy pearls have shaken off their ‘old-fashioned’ image,” she stated. “As the market becomes saturated with white round and baroque designs, there is growing opportunity for coloured pearls and pearls combined with gems and other unconventional materials.”