This article first appeared in the JNA July/August 2025 issue.

The jewellery industry is thriving and evolving, thanks to technological advancements and new cutting-edge techniques in jewellery production. Manufacturers and designers continually push boundaries to create innovative, visually stunning pieces. 

The Flos Motus Collection of Hong Kong-based Ikku Fine Jewellery exemplifies the fusion of artistry and superior craftsmanship. Inspired by the beauty of nature, the collection captures refreshing greens and pinks from land alongside mesmerising blues of the sky and the ocean.

“One of the key design inspirations is sweet pea. Its delicate petals, which embody the grace of both flowers and butterflies, are reflected in the intricate shapes and colours of each piece,” said brand founder Yukking Hui.

Colour gradience

Jewellery in the Flos Motus Collection is further enhanced by gradient-coloured rhodium-plated gold, which shifts in hue to complement gemstone colours.

“This intricate technique requires a high level of craftsmanship,” remarked Hui. “If a mistake occurs during the production process, we must remove all rhodium pigments and restart completely. Therefore, each piece is meticulously crafted. The collection embodies elegance and precision, a testament to our dedication to innovative jewellery designs.”

According to Hui, all pigments undergo testing to ensure they are hypoallergenic. “While these tests increase production costs and time, we are committed to producing beautiful pieces using only the finest materials,” she explained.

An internationally renowned designer, Hui won the silver award in the A’ Design Award & Competition 2023 and took home the Best of Show Award in the Open Group of the 23rd Hong Kong Jewellery Design Competition. Her passion for jewellery design drives her creative innovation.

“The jewellery industry has faced numerous challenges in recent years amid uncertain business conditions and rising gold prices. Innovative, captivating designs are needed to entice consumers to purchase jewellery,” she said. “I am thrilled to introduce the gradient-coloured rhodium technique for the first time in our collection, bringing something new to the market.”

New frontier

Scottish-American Maeve Gillies, founder and CEO of Maeve Gillies Design, turns to new technology to honour her Celtic heritage in an innovative direct metal 3D-printed platinum and titanium jewellery collection.

Developed in collaboration with Platinum Guild International (PGI^®), Tùsaire comprises 30 one-of-a-kind statement pieces, from torc necklaces with interchangeable elements to cuffs, rings and earrings. Seven pieces are set with rare Scottish rocks including Renfrewshire quartz.

Gillies is no stranger to platinum, having used it extensively in her bridal collections. “I wanted to push the boundaries of what is possible with platinum and help people see it in a new light,” she remarked. “I was keen to spend time with the technology to understand its potential as a new tool for expressing creativity. 

With Tùsaire , aptly meaning “pioneer” in Scottish Gaelic, the jewellery designer sought to present platinum as bold, transformable and customisable.

The collection enabled Gillies and PGI to identify advantages and challenges of 3D-printed platinum. For starters, printing larger parts remains costly, and hollow forms need to be strong enough to hold their shape but light enough to be wearable. Surface resolution and printing bed orientation are other key considerations.

“These challenges represent brilliant opportunities – to incorporate the surface resolution as part of the jewellery design and to create unprecedented large forms in platinum,” Gillies revealed.

The resulting Tùsaire pieces are ultralight and hollow, with bold designs featuring contrasting layers of unpolished, native 3D-printed platinum against high-polished surfaces.

This collection is just the beginning in Gillies’ new chapter of exploration and creativity with technology. “3D printing is a very exciting tool to understand and incorporate further in creative practice, alongside a handcrafted mindset and an artistic vision,” said the designer, who also intends to produce electroformed platinum jewellery collections.