This article first appeared in the Pearl Report 2022-2023.

Philippines-based Jewelmer counts the pearl’s timeless appeal as the driving force behind the industry’s steady recovery amid economic, political and environmental challenges. Critical to the sector’s continued success too are two evolutionary developments in the pearl trade: Digitalisation and sustainability.

Jewelmer – renowned globally as a top producer of golden South Sea pearls and pearl jewellery – is at the centre of a growing convergence between these influential concepts. Sustainability has always been focal to Jewelmer’s agenda and with changes brought about by Covid-19 and other major headwinds, digitalisation is increasingly becoming a crucial element in the company’s growth strategy.

“The maison views such challenges with an ever-resilient attitude, facing times of uncertainties with collective optimism and as learning opportunities for growth and adaptation,” remarked Jacques Christophe Branellec, executive vice president and deputy CEO of Jewelmer.

Growth drivers

Jewelmer has observed rising interest in rare luxury goods over the years. Instrumental to this jump in demand are Chinese clients who are consistently investing in Philippine South Sea pearls and finished South Sea pearl jewellery. Branellec revealed, “We aspire to become established in China and resonate more with Chinese consumers.”

With robust demand, prices of exceptional pearls have bounced back, surpassing those in previous years, he added.

Consumers’ quest for authenticity and value-based products is also fuelling the business. Pearls have become symbols of ethical environmental practices and the market is increasingly buying into this narrative.

“Individuals are becoming more mindful and reflective of their values. There is a newfound desire to understand the origins of the brands that they purchase from. People are looking deeper into the meaning behind items that bring them joy,” the company official said.

Jewelmer has an expansive international footprint, with the China and the US expected to contribute majority of business growth, he added.

Covid and other challenges

Evolving environmental conditions strongly correlate with pearl supply and production, further raising the importance of protecting and conserving natural resources, according to Branellec.

At Jewelmer, certain environmental shifts related to the greater fluctuation of water temperature, ocean acidification and changes in the plankton profile are impacting production. Climate change affects survival rates of certain batches of oysters as well as overall growth rate. On the whole, challenges brought about by global warming are making it more difficult to produce pearls.

“These present both obstacles and opportunities – the main challenge is Jewelmer will have a lower volume to distribute globally, but with lower biomass density comes the potential to achieve higher-quality output, improving the average quality of our production,” explained Branellec.

Digital strategy

At the height of the Covid-19 pandemic in 2020 when virtually all in-person interactions were prohibited and travel restrictions were at their strictest, Jewelmer relied on technology to continuously engage with its clients and do business. It launched a series of online auctions – a first for the company. The events were well-received by the trade.

Branellec commented, “Through the continued trust and faith in Jewelmer’s sorting, grading, and classification systems, the maison was humbled by the successful results of the virtual auctions. Online events will be a continuing feature of the business alongside the in-person auctions.”

Other digital initiatives include services that offer immersive user-friendly experiences on its e-commerce platforms such as virtual jewellery try-ons. In 2020, Jewelmer launched its US-based e-commerce website, and the company is aiming to expand this service to Japan and China soon. A strong and engaging social media presence is another crucial component of Jewelmer’s digital strategy. The company has more than 76,000 followers on Instagram and around 54,000 on Facebook, at press time. Social media platforms serve as avenues to foster virtual connections, noted Jewelmer.

Sustainability leader

Sustainability has always been at the forefront of Jewelmer’s operations. Its pearl farms in Palawan are testament to its long-term advocacy of marine life and environmental conservation. The farms are located at the centre of the Coral Triangle, which is home to the world’s most diverse marine and coral life.

“As pearls can only survive in very pristine environments, they are great indicators of healthy and thriving marine ecosystems,” shared Branellec. “The local communities pledge to safeguard the coastal environment and are cared for through Save Palawan Seas Foundation (SPSF), a non-profit organisation.”

Established in 2006 by the founders of Jewelmer, SPSF is aimed at supporting the conservation of marine resources and providing income to its beneficiaries through livelihood projects. Recently, the foundation aided in relief drives for victims of Typhoon Odette in the Philippines in 2021, which heavily damaged coastal areas, resulting in entire households without shelter or access to clean water.

Through generous donations, SPSF was able to send relief goods to around 2,000 households. The foundation also recently organised book drives to sponsor students and schools that lack learning materials, community seminars to raise awareness of endangered species around the island, and coastal clean-ups to restore the beauty of the natural white sands of Palawan. “These programmes leave positive and lasting impacts on the land, the sea and the community,”
said Branellec.

Jewelmer is also proud of another undertaking this year: It designed the La Mer en Majesté crown – an exceptional piece featuring an assortment of golden South Sea Pearls – for the Miss Universe Philippines pageant. A renowned local event that empowers and celebrates Filipino women, it is synonymous with Filipino pride and heritage. Jewelmer designing the crown also coincides with the 75th year of diplomatic relations between France and the Philippines.

The crown, made by Filipino craftsmen who were trained in the traditional jewellery techniques of the École du Louvre, showcases the country’s national gem and pays tribute to every Filipino who helped produce it, including pearl farmers.

Pearl future

According to Branellec, China’s growing interest in South Sea pearls is expected to further strengthen. Chinese consumers’ preference and desire for golden South Sea pearls and their appreciation of the gems motivate Jewelmer to secure a larger share of this booming market.

Apart from its Jewelmer boutiques and authorised retailers worldwide, including Japan and Europe, the company is aiming to expand its reach in Southeast Asia.

The pearl specialist is also at the forefront of another transformative development in the trade: Rising interest in pearls among a younger generation of buyers.

According to Branellec, younger individuals are seeing the unique value proposition of Jewelmer’s pearls as wearable and incredibly versatile gems. Pearls are also appealing more to style-conscious men and have grown to become distinctive menswear accessories and bold fashion statements.

“To see that younger buyers are leaning towards more environmentally friendly practices is gratifying and uplifting,” said Branellec. “Furthermore, Jewelmer’s exceptional pieces are selling exponentially well. These rare and one-of-a-kind creations continue to be sought after by passionate collectors who have been long-standing supporters of the brand.”