This article first appeared in the Pearl Report 2024-2025.

As pearl jewellery branding continues to gain traction in the jewellery world, companies are creating a space with unique propositions of pearl variety, quality and most of all, contemporary designs, which elevate the pearl to a trendier, must-have gem that appeals to consumers of all ages and gender.

Artistry is a brand

Design and differentiation are powerful brand statements. Case in point are award-winning jeweller Melanie Georgacopoulos’ contemporary designs, which are triggering a change in consumers’ perception of pearls. Her eponymous brand, launched in 2010, helped elevate pearls’ status from traditional to modern and ultra-stylish.

Georgacopoulos said the first and biggest step throughout her brand journey was the decision to work exclusively with pearls – a choice she made while finishing her master’s degree at the Royal College of Art in London.

She explained, “I wanted to change how people view pearls and I like to think my designs have played a part in doing so over the past decade.”

Georgacopoulos rose to further prominence when Tasaki, one of Japan’s oldest pearl companies, proposed a joint venture launched in 2014 under the brand M/G Tasaki. She remarked, “It was such a huge moment for me. Tasaki’s impeccable craftsmanship allowed me to accomplish designs that otherwise would not have been possible.”

To achieve differentiation and expand design possibilities, she added mother-of-pearl to her repertoire in 2018. “Discovering the shells from which pearls are created seemed like a natural step,” she noted. “It is a widely overlooked material with many amazing qualities that I continue to explore alongside pearls.”

In 2020, Georgacopoulos celebrated the 10th anniversary of her namesake brand with a series of one-of-a-kind pieces that highlight charming combinations of natural clam pearls, diamonds and mother-of-pearl.

Thinking outside the norm is a crucial branding strategy. Her recently launched Halo Twist necklace has a unique feature: Each large pearl in the strand is enveloped by smaller pearls resembling mini necklaces in captivating hues. The black and white triple strand with clever colour blocking evokes a mesmerising new dimension.

Meanwhile, “fresh and refresh” are likewise on the cards for M/G Tasaki, which recently unveiled a new collection using Tasaki’s trademark Sakuragold plus an expansion of previous offerings.

Georgacopoulos is also known for innovating with natural materials. She is fascinated with the deep purple and white tones of the Quahog clam shell, historically used by Native Americans in beads called wampum for storytelling, ceremonial gifts and later, for currency. This will be the focus of her new pearl jewellery collection.

Commenting on the latest gender-fluid trend in design, she noted, “There is no need to design separately for women and men anymore. The new customer wants jewels that reflect their style.”

Product-centric approach

Family-owned brand Kamoka Pearls, for its part, is focused on Tahitian pearls produced at its farm on the Ahe Atoll in French Polynesia. The brand has grown entirely online and has a strong global following, particularly in the US.

Its design mantra is simple and classic, allowing the pearls’ shape, colour and extraordinary lustre to take centre stage, said Kamoka Pearls Brand Director Celeste Brash. Its fine jewellery pieces are in gold and silver.

For Assael Inc, a New York-based pearl brand with more than 75 years of industry expertise, product distinction is key and is achieved through a strong design legacy that combines top-quality pearls with fine gemstones in recognisable jewellery collections.

According to Peggy Grosz, senior vice president and creative director at Assael, “branding” a pearl business necessitates knowing which space to “own and defend.”

Assael, for instance, stays within the fine pearl zone and does not deal in freshwater pearls or commercial-quality goods. Grosz explained, “That is our ‘path’ to brand recognition and growth. It is working, and we are committed to these focal points.”

Appealing to the consumer

Milamore owner and designer George Inaki Root wears his love for pearls as a personal fashion statement and focuses on contemporary, androgynous designs that instantly make them desirable and wearable for a younger generation of buyers.

“I see more and more Gen Zs enjoying pearl chokers with fun beads, even if they are artificial. They find pearls cool and sophisticated. I want to convey the idea that pearls can be worn as street style, providing a consistently elevated look,” remarked Root.

He works with Japanese Akoya and South Sea pearls and all pieces are designed in New York and handmade in Japan. Root continued, “When I design, I do not think about gender or age but focus on the buyers’ personality. They can be in their early 20s or well into their 60s. It is always about people who are not typically into jewellery but resonate with my concept and designs.”

For Coleman Douglas Pearls Founder Christianne Douglas, the concept of woven and flexible adornment is a core brand proposition. She pioneered the concept of pearl bodywear in the early 1990s and continues to “weave” pieces, mixing in high-quality Tahitian, South Sea, Akoya and freshwater pearls with coloured gemstones like amethyst, citrine, rose quartz and opal alongside finer-quality sapphires and diamonds.

Jewellery for men, meanwhile, is a new top-seller. Douglas said, “Male customers want unusual pearls and splurge on something special. They are open to wearing the pieces more frequently even if the focus is on high-value pearls. Male buyers account for almost 15 per cent of the business. Hollywood actor and pearl lover Timothée Chalamet is among them.”

Sales are mainly online, with the brand successfully building an international clientele in Europe, the US, Japan, Hong Kong and Mexico. “Online sales now comprise about 80 per cent by piece and about 60 per cent by value,” Douglas revealed.

Requests for bespoke pieces are an important category while sales remain strong at London’s Fortnum and Mason’s jewellery hall. “Pearl bodywear is a perennial go-to product. Customers are aware that I pioneered this style of wearing pearls and requests come through for special occasions,” she added.

Building a pearl brand

Luxury Brand Group’s Duvall O’Steen in New York shared with Pearl Report several important factors for successful pearl branding.

Specificity is key and pearl jewellery designers must find a way to set themselves apart from the competition, noted O’Steen. “What is your unique perspective and how are you interpreting pearls in the contemporary world are important brand questions,” she commented.

Signature clasps, recognisable motifs or design inspirations, and/or aesthetic genres such as classic, edgy, minimalist or bold are critical in “branding” a jewellery line or collection. Customers who love specific design aspects such as attention to detail, how the piece sits on the neck or ear, or how versatile it is, will expect to see more of these in future collections. Comfort – does it feel good to wear – is also a key value factor as these help create a cohesive brand story that can ultimately bolster jewellery sales.

A strong social media presence and a meaningful blog can also help establish the brand, O’Steen added. “Social media helps develop an audience and allows companies to get instant feedback on new collections. A blog, meanwhile, lets you talk directly to the end-customer and offer origin story, design inspirations, or ways to wear new pieces. Building the brand as an expert voice and utilising key words in posts is vital to success,” explained O’Steen.