This article first appeared in the JNA July/ August 2022 issue.

American jewellery house Oscar Heyman, which opened its doors in 1912, was the creative force behind some of the most iconic pieces in our jewellery history books. True connoisseurs would easily recognise 'Birds in Flight' – a stunning, gem-studded bracelet showcasing tropical birds in flight betwixt floral sprigs – as an Oscar Heyman masterpiece crafted in 1927.

The bracelet, set with rubies, emeralds, sapphires, onyx stones and diamonds, resurfaced in a Sotheby’s auction in 1996, where it sold for US$350,000. In May 2022, Birds in Flight was offered at Sotheby’s Geneva where it fetched US$1.4 million. The piece was originally produced for Shreve, Crump & Low, one of America’s oldest jewellers.

This is just one among the many remarkable pieces designed and manufactured by Oscar Heyman for major jewellery retailers. Over the decades, it has produced extraordinary jewellery for Cartier, Tiffany & Co and Van Cleef & Arpels, among others – earning it the title, 'The jewellers’ jeweller.'

Branding and transition

Oscar Heyman, which celebrates its 110th anniversary this year, remains a force to reckon with in the industry. Distinguished the world over for its illustrious history and indispensable contribution to American jewellery manufacturing, the company is witness to the ever-changing landscape of the jewellery trade.

Third-generation jeweller and co-president of the company Tom Heyman explained that while the world has changed tremendously since 1912, the company’s philosophy to produce top-quality jewellery using the finest gemstones remains constant. A significant transformation however was a decision in the 1970s to start building the Oscar Heyman brand.

'Today our brand on its own is very sought after. In stores across the US, we advertise and sell pieces as Oscar Heyman. That is probably one of the biggest changes in our company,' explained Tom.

With increased mobility post-World War II, the need to establish brand names particularly in the luxury jewellery business has become more pronounced. Trusted and well-known brands lend credibility and patent elegance to retail stores, added the company official.

Oscar Heyman sells to around 100 stores in the US and a couple of shops in England. It also works with a US-based dealer buying for a wholesaler in Shanghai, which means it has some presence in the Chinese market. Moving forward, the jeweller is aiming to expand its foothold in China, which it described as the next 'significant jewellery market.'

In terms of design preferences, Tom said American buyers are partial to refined and subdued styles as opposed to high-end Asian clients who prefer statement pieces that are adorned with natural, unheated stones with a pedigree.

Oscar Heyman is renowned for its exquisite use of high-quality coloured gemstones, which are the stars of its inimitable jewellery designs. It uses a great deal of emeralds, sapphires and rubies but it also works with Paraiba tourmalines, opals, alexandrites, chrysoberyl cat’s-eyes, star sapphires and rubies, aquamarines and pastel-coloured fancy sapphires. The pieces come in 18-karat yellow gold or platinum.

'Our hero stone might be chrysoberyl cat’s-eye. We love it and we always produce a big collection of it,' explained Tom. 'But we sell more blue sapphires than any other coloured gemstone.'

Apart from Birds in Flight, Oscar Heyman made history when it first crafted its 'Ballerina' ring, which features a sizeable centre gem, which could be a diamond or coloured gemstone, surrounded by undulating baguette diamonds reimagined as a ballerina skirt. This innovative concept has since been reinterpreted in different ways by other jewellers.

'We were the original designer of the Ballerina ring in the 1950s. We feel we make it better than anybody else. It is a very iconic Oscar Heyman design,' revealed Tom.

Another emblematic Oscar Heyman piece was the 'Gardenia' brooch, which the company unveiled at the 1939 New York World’s Fair, where it won the Best of Show award. The jeweller also designed a series of flower brooches, inspired by pansies and lilies – adorned with premium-quality diamonds and coloured gems – which remain highly desired in the market today.

The company’s selection of intricately crafted necklaces, earrings, rings and bracelets – embellished with the finest diamonds and coloured gems – are all popular and easily discernible in the trade.

Its jewellery pieces are most attractive to perceptive and sophisticated clients who have an eye for exceptionality. Tom describes an Oscar Heyman customer as 'an affluent and confident woman who is happy to make a statement.'

'We are selling jewellery whose value will increase over time but more than that, these pieces are heirlooms that can be enjoyed by future generations,' he noted.

Oscar Heyman is likewise incorporating trendier, more casual items in its product portfolio as a way to entice a younger generation of buyers. These daily-wear pieces retain Oscar Heyman’s patented opulence. Tom described the pieces as upwardly mobile, catering to consumers in their 20s and 30s. He continued, 'Millennials and Gen Zs are aspirational and are looking for pieces that they can wear to the office and to dinner with friends. What we are not changing is our dedication to making the finest-quality jewellery.'

The future is dazzling

The jeweller is also stepping up its digital footprint. It has an Instagram account with more than 72,000 followers and a Facebook page with around 9,000 followers as of press time. The company regularly posts a combination of photos and videos that creatively showcase its collections and encourage online client engagement.

According to Tom, they also send high-resolution photos and videos of their designs to their retailer clients that they can, in turn, show their customers. 'The sales process today happens before the clients walk in the store,' he remarked.

While there are transactions that take place solely online, the in-store buying experience remains irreplaceable. 'To get the full measure of the gorgeous piece of jewellery that you want to buy, you must hold it, touch it and try it on. But there is no question that consumers’ interest is piqued in a digital fashion very often,' he added. Digital initiatives will continue to be a critical part of the company’s business strategy. For instance, the company is now producing its Fall 2022 Catalogue, which will include photos and videos of its latest jewellery designs. The catalogue, to be launched in October, will have a strong digital component, according to Tom.