Vicenzaoro 2020, held from January 17 to 22, featured a total of 1,500 brands who presented their goods to more than 35,000 visitors – the highest recorded number of participants in the last 10 years. Various design and marketing trends prevailed throughout the show. Major jewellery brands sat down with JNA to talk about those trends.

Inclusivity

Inclusivity and imperfection – salt and pepper diamonds for instance – are currently taking shape in the jewellery trade.

According to Stephen Lussier, chairman of Forevermark and executive vice president for consumer and brands of De Beers Group, the so-called 4C's of diamond quality should no longer be a top consideration when people celebrate life's moments.

“Flawless is a terrible word. We should appreciate inclusions more and start recognising them as nature's fingerprints,” noted Lussier.

Italian jeweller Giovanni Ferraris meanwhile revealed that he will use more fancy colour diamonds such as black, milky white, blue and yellow, in his designs.

Design and materials

Designs that pay homage to Mother Nature have time and again captivated jewellery buyers and connoisseurs for many centuries. This year, jewellers are responding creatively to a newfound appreciation of planet earth by coming out with nature-inspired pieces.

In 2020, the flora and fauna motif will be more visible, with insects, animals, plants and flowers dominating jewellery designs, according to Sergio Antonini of Milan-based Antonini. Butterfly-themed pieces, which were a hit a few years ago, are likely to make a comeback.

Ferraris also cited an increase in interest in classic jewellery among today's buyers. His brand however focusses mostly on design pieces and the use of titanium.

Organic shapes and different sizes and cuts of stones that are randomly mounted on a jewellery piece, as seen in the collections of both Antonini and Polish designer Tomasz Donocik, are also creating waves in the market.

“Links in fine or chunky designs are also back,” noted London-based Donocik.

Fope, which specialises in classic gold jewellery, agreed. “Our distinctive 18-karat gold mesh chains, which we manufacture in-house in Vicenza, are timeless. We do keep an eye on current trends but don't follow them,” noted Diego Nardin, CEO of Fope.

The use of titanium in various hues is also on the rise. French jeweller Lydia Courteille said she favours rose-coloured titanium.

Massimo Gismondi, chief designer and CEO of Italian jeweller Gismondi 1754, meanwhile observed growing interest in personalisation. “Jewellery displayed on windows is an opportunity for a conversation. While listening to clients about their dreams and lifestyle, we build a relationship of trust and create a piece of jewellery that matches their personality,” noted Massimo.

Sustainability

Climate change is an issue that encompasses many industries, the jewellery sector included. The World Jewellery Confederation or CIBJO led this initiative by working hand in hand with the United Nations on a mission to make the jewellery industry more sustainable.

“Fope was among those that joined the Responsible Jewellery Council early on in 2013,” revealed Nardin. “We always strive to guarantee the least environmental impact possible throughout our entire supply chain and operations.”

Sergio of Antonini also weighed in on the issue, adding that pollution caused by various industries is a cause for concern. He commented, “Sustainability seems to be more a buzz in marketing than a deep commitment. In our company, we try to avoid the use of plastic, keep a proper temperature in the office and avoid wasting water and energy. We aim to be carbon-free.”

Courteille, for her part, recognised the challenge of maintaining sustainability in the jewellery supply chain but said there are ways to go about it, citing the growing trend of upcycling and recycling. Her company, for instance, recycles gemstones and works with recycled gold. Donocik meanwhile disclosed that he is working on a bridal collection using only recycled gold.