This article first appeared in the JNA November/December 2024 issue.

Design is a critical component of the jewellery making process and often, it determines the appeal and saleability of a jewellery piece. For seasoned designers Austy Lee, Caroline Chartouni and Nisan Ong, the endeavour goes beyond business as designing jewellery is akin to breathing life into personal narratives, dreams and experiences. Here are their stories.

Beginnings and aspirations

Lee, founder and designer of Hong Kong-based Austy Lee Art Jewellery, has more than two decades of experience in the jewellery industry. He founded his own brand in 2017, armed with the skills he patiently honed over the years.

“I worked with five different companies before I started my own brand,” explained Lee. “My vision was to create something ‘very Austy’ – a style that is my own and imbued with my personality and artistry.”

To achieve this, Lee draws inspiration from religion, culture and his affinity for the arts to conceptualise his designs. Complex, edgy and multilayered are how one would describe Lee’s creations.

Each piece features his geometric prowess and inventive use of colours as well as different techniques like enamelling and inlaying, to name a few. Lee is also fond of repurposing antique items to create an entirely new piece of jewellery, with the aim of preserving its unique attributes while giving it a modern twist.

For her part, Chartouni of New York luxury jewellery brand Caroline C said her family legacy, which spans three generations in the fashion industry, provided a strong foundation to building her career in jewellery design.

She also credits her education in interior and fashion design in Paris as instrumental to refining her artistic flair and deep admiration for coloured gemstones.

“Creativity is deeply rooted in my DNA,” noted Chartouni. “My background in fashion is also reflected in my designs. Every piece radiates this strong synergy between fashion and jewellery.”

Meanwhile, art and nature are central to the one-of-a-kind designs of Ong, founder and designer of Thailand-based Nisan Ong / Ong Jewelry Design Co Ltd.

An art fanatic and a devoted collector of paintings, sculptures and jewellery, he set out to make a difference in the world of jewellery design by offering unconventional motifs and colour combinations.

“My strategy was to stand out,” noted Ong. “My experience as an art connoisseur became a defining point in my career as this helped infuse uniqueness to my creations.”

A design must fulfil certain criteria for it to belong to the realm of “art jewellery,” according to Ong. These include having a strong concept; harmony in shape, colour and overall appeal; exceptional style and the use of a special technique. For instance, Ong is known for his clever use of gold and titanium in his nature-inspired pieces.

Road to prominence

Designers are becoming more innovative in their creations in an ever-evolving fine jewellery landscape. Similarly, end-consumers are increasingly gravitating towards more authentic and distinctive designs.

According to Chartouni, creating truly exceptional pieces hinges upon the designer’s ability to convey the story behind each jewellery piece. And this starts with effective communication. “Listen to what your clients want,” she said. “I ask them what the piece is for and if they want to keep it simple or make a statement. That is where the story begins.”

Chartouni also found a niche, which catapulted her to fame: She was one of the very first designers to focus on the beloved Paraiba tourmaline. In fact, she is affectionately known in the trade as the “Queen of Paraiba.” She has also won numerous accolades, including the prestigious Spectrum Awards.

Ong, for his part, has his own workshop in Bangkok – a renowned gemstone and jewellery manufacturing hub in Asia. “I started my workshop about 20 years ago. I only had one goldsmith back then. Now, I employ about 30 workers,” shared Ong.

His bespoke designs are highly sought after among clients spanning major markets around the world. Some of his designs were auction pieces, including a pair of fancy sapphire and diamond earrings, which sold at Tiancheng International 2015; and a diamond and tsavorite garnet brooch in titanium, which was auctioned off at Bonhams in 2022.

Meanwhile, Lee’s ascent to jewellery stardom was the fruit of dedication, hard work and consistency. Lee said, “It is important to always be in the know. I read a great deal of books about different cultures and history. I learn, I sketch and do research every day.”

This tenacity extends to other aspects of the business, particularly his social media presence. Lee currently has 475,000 followers on Instagram where he actively posts pictures and videos of his latest creations.

Each post is accompanied by a detailed narrative as to how the jewellery piece came to be, demonstrating the amount of research and effort that goes into designing a single jewellery piece. Social media is also a useful tool to connect and engage with next-generation clients, he added.

While technological advancement is inevitable, Chartouni, Lee and Ong agreed that jewellery design remains a deeply personal endeavour, so handmade pieces will continue to find favour among today’s discerning buyers. However, taking advantage of innovative new techniques and combining these with contemporary design elements coupled with compelling storytelling are keys to longevity in the jewellery world, the designers said.