PEARL REPORT 2021

PEARL REPORT | 48 | 2021-2022 MARKET INTELLIGENCE Top-quality conch pearls with superior colour and flame have a solid following in the trade, but supply is tight, particularly for gems of 5 carats and above, resulting in high prices. “Around 10 years ago, there were only a few who knew about conch pearls. Buyers’ interest has been increasing gradually every year, but continued education about these pearls is crucial to further stimulating demand,” noted Takano. A conch pearl’s pink colour – further enhanced by a flame structure that gives it a smooth, silk-like appearance – makes it highly desirable among jewellery designers, manufacturers and end-consumers. In fact, price-conscious customers who are partial to outstanding pieces would still ask for high-quality conch pearls, noted Takano. Kashikey earlier sold an ultra-exceptional 13-carat conch pearl, which Takano said was a highlight of his 27-year career in the trade. “We have been trading many 10-carat-plus gems over the years but that 13-carat conch pearl was just impeccable,” he continued. Takano however cited a few challenges to conch pearl trading including overfishing and natural disasters. Grosz of Assael shared this sentiment, adding that pearl cultivation has not been possible of late. The pearl forms deep within the shell, making implanting difficult at best. “The industry is dependent upon natural resources and we are concerned about the amount of conch molluscs being fished to hunt for these pearls,” she remarked, adding that Assael supports regulations that seek to prevent overfishing. Unique shape According to the World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO), keshis are accidentally formed saltwater cultured pearls without a solid bead at the centre. Known in the trade as non-bead cultured pearls, keshis generally range in sizes greater than 1mm to 16mm but larger, very rare gems are occasionally found. Keshi pearls differ in size and shape – from round to flat or baroque. Keshi is the Japanese word for “poppy seed,” alluding to the size of the pearls, revealed CIBJO. Bigger non-bead cultured pearls today are also referred to as keshi. These exceptional and organic shapes infuse pearl jewellery with an edgier, more contemporary appeal, noted Tom Wan, business manager at Wing Wo Hing Jewellery Group. Wing Wo Hing specialises in keshi pearl jewellery pieces that celebrate the gem’s distinct natural shape. “What makes keshis special compared with other pearls is their free-form shape, which infuses a one-of-a- kind character to each jewellery piece,” shared Wan. “We could very well say there are no identical keshi pearls in nature, which adds to their appeal and desirability.” Keshis figure a great deal in the Hong Kong-based company’s pearl jewellery collections. According to the company official, these gems are instrumental in upping the ante for pearl jewellery designs, making them trendier and more modern. This in turn has contributed to their soaring popularity. “These gems are truly exceptional and may command very high prices, which depend on many factors such as size, quality, surface appearance, rarity and lustre, to name a few. If they are used to make earrings, the gems should match,” explained Wan. Round pearls however are still dominating the pearl market, so most farms are focused on producing these gems. Fine keshi pearls have become harder to come by, with demand already exceeding supply. Wing Wo Hing sources its pearls from China and Japan, disclosed Wan, adding that certain keshis can be quite rare while some can be found in commercial quantities. NACREOUS PEARLS 有核珍珠 • Most famous types include South Sea, Tahitian and Akoya pearls 最著名的包括南洋珠、大溪 地珍珠及 Akoya 海水珠 • Shapes vary from round to irregular such as baroque 形狀包括圓形至不規則，例如異形珠 • Formed of a substance called nacre, which is secreted by an oyster mollusc and wrapped in layers over time – eventually forming a nacreous pearl 形成由軟體動物分泌的珍珠 質，長時間層層包裹下，最終形成珍珠質珍珠 • Nacre gives nacreous pearls a refined, mesmerising glow and determines their size, shape and colour 珍珠層讓珍珠發出迷人光 芒，同時決定了珍珠的大小、形狀和顏色 • The thicker the nacre, the higher the lustre of the pearl 珍珠層越厚，珍珠的光澤度越高 Source 資料來源 : Assael and GIA Assael 及美國寶石研究院