PEARL REPORT 2021

PEARL REPORT | 47 | 2021-2022 市場情報 Mabe, another unconventional type of pearl, is relatively easy to identify, continued Zhou. They typically have a “seam line” placed against the shell wall as opposed to within the soft tissues, hence they are also called assembled cultured shell blister pearls. Keshi pearls meanwhile are by-products of the culturing process, which usually exhibit irregular linear or void internal growth features under X-ray examination. According toGIA, their internal features would occasionally be difficult to see so labs would have to utilise more advanced instrumentations such as X-ray computed micro-tomography. Of pinks and oranges Conch pearls’ rise in prominence has been attributed to their rarity and mesmerising ultra-feminine colour. These distinctive flamingo pink to orange hues and natural flame-like patterns make conch pearls one of the most desired gems by traders and collectors alike. Classified as non-nacreous pearls, they are produced by the Strombus Gigas or Queen Conch mollusc, which is native to the Caribbean. These gems are exceedingly scarce, with only one in every 10,000 species producing a conch pearl. Of those, only 10 per cent are gem-quality. Sought after for their varying shades of fiery orange, yellow or brown, melo pearls meanwhile are produced by the Indian volute, a sea snail native to Southeast Asia, according to GIA. Melo pearls are available in very large, mostly round sizes. Legendary pearl company Assael specialises in intricately designed fine jewellery pieces with the conch and melo pearls as centre gems. According to Peggy Grosz, senior vice president of Assael, these gems are favoured for their individuality and exceptionality, particularly for their porcelaneous surface as opposed to the lustre found in their nacreous pearl counterparts. The finest conchs reveal stunning flame patterns while melos display striking feather-like prints. Majority of the trade however remains unfamiliar with these gems despite their growing popularity hence only collectors and connoisseurs seek them out, the pearl expert commented. “Conch pearls are much rarer than nacreous pearls. Melo pearls are exceedingly rare, even more so than conchs. These gems are truly prized,” explained Grosz. “We would sometimes find these pearls through individual divers who approach us. We also source them from international dealers who specialise in rare, natural pearls.” Yuji Takano, president of conch pearl specialist Kashikey Hong Kong Ltd, explained that demand for conch pearls has consistently been on the rise, especially now that buyers are gravitating more towards the unique and the unconventional. “The value and rarity of these non-traditional pearls are generally based on several quality factors and special characteristics: Size, shape, colour, lustre and surface, and for some non-nacreous pearls like conch and melo, the attractiveness of their flame patterns.” - GIA Senior Manager of Pearl Identification Chunhui Zhou