PEARL REPORT 2021

PEARL REPORT | 45 | 2021-2022 市場情報 Soaring diversity pearl trade 擁抱多元的珍珠行業 | Bernardette Sto. Domingo 杜明高 | Non-traditional varieties of pearls are commanding attention in the international jewellery scene, setting off innovative design trends that further elevate the pearl’s perennial allure and versatility. 非傳統珍珠在國際 珠寶界越來越受關注，引領創新設計潮流，更加提升珍珠的吸引力與可塑性。 U nconventional types of pearls, including conch, melo and keshi, to name a few, which differ in appearance, colour, lustre, size and shape from traditional favourites South Sea, Akoya and Tahitian pearls, are making sustained headways in the market. These alternative pearl varieties are pushing the envelope of ingenuity in the jewellery industry, with their unique appearance injecting pearl jewellery pieces with an entirely different level of exceptionality and ethereal sophistication. Such new and innovative designs in turn promote the versatile beauty of pearls to a wider range of audiences. According to Gemological Institute of America (GIA) Senior Manager of Pearl Identification Chunhui Zhou, both traditional and non-traditional pearls can form in a broad range of sizes, colours and shapes, but there is currently no commercial culturing practice for conch or melo, which are non-nacreous pearls – except for a few experimental ones. “These pearls are almost always natural,” revealed Zhou. Owing to their rarity and refreshing appearance, these extraordinary gems are attracting high prices at international auctions. In November 2012, a 1920s Cartier bracelet with conch pearls, diamonds and enamel sold for US$3.5 million at Sotheby’s Geneva – a record price for a conch pearl jewellery at auction. Other notable auction items were a conch pearl and diamond necklace, which fetched HK$2.22 million (around US$286,160) at Christie’s Hong Kong in November 2016, and a multi-strand Ring with lavender spinel stones and a conch pearl centre stone; melo pearl and diamond pendant; and conch pearl ring by Assael Assael 的薰衣草色尖晶石及 海螺珠戒指； Assael 美樂珠 及鑽石吊墜；及 Assael 海螺 珠戒指 in the