22 | JNA September/October 2025 FOCUS 焦点 A couple of years after osmium debuted in Asia’s fine jewellery space, the greyish-blue metal continues to gain traction as innovative centrepieces or accents – breaking new ground in jewellery design. The ultra-rare precious metal – sourced as a by-product of platinum mining and crystallised for use in jewellery manufacturing – was introduced in the high-end collections of Hong Kong jewellery designer Tania Chan in 2024. Interest in the extraordinary metal has since skyrocketed, with applications in the luxury jewellery and watch industries. Its rarity alongside supply constraints catapulted prices to US$2,400.53 per gram as of August 2025, making it approximately 20 times more valuable than gold. "Crystallised osmium is used as luxury jewellery inlays rather than a primary carrier material like gold or other precious metals. It is also used in larger surfaces as a single addition or as accents requiring a minimal amount of osmium," explained Scarlett Clauss, vice president of the German Osmium-Institute. Prices are on the rise because the metal is extremely scarce, with less than half a tonne of osmium remaining to be crystallised. The metal offers unique security features. Clauss said, "It is unforgeable in crystalline form, with each piece having a fingerprint-like pattern that prevents counterfeiting." Processed in Switzerland and certified in Germany, each piece receives an identification code in the Osmium World Database, ensuring traceability. Dazzling future Industry demand is surging, with the Osmium Institute partnering with international designers, producers and brands to boost the metal's mainstream appeal. “We cannot disclose details yet but we will soon see larger luxury brands using osmium in their collections,” shared Clauss. “In the coming months, we expect more brands and designers switching to osmium.” Designs combining osmium with diamonds are especially alluring, with customers seeking fresh ideas and inventive materials already favouring the metal. While diamonds sparkle from six metres in sunlight, osmium's reflective surface is visible from 30 metres, like a thousand little mirrors. Clauss is clear about one thing though — osmium is not replacing diamonds but should be seen as a complement or alternative. “This is how we are marketing it,” she remarked. “Last year in Hong Kong, diamond dealers told us they want to offer osmium alongside their core products. It is amazing. Demand is growing steadily mainly by word of mouth.” 自2024年，中国香港设计师Tania Chan首次把锇金 属(Osmium)首饰系列引进亚洲高级珠宝市场， 令这种稀有金属一鸣惊人，并旋即成为大热创新 的设计元素。 此种灰蓝色的贵金属是铂金开采过程中的副产品，且经 过结晶处理，在高端珠宝和手表领域炙手可热。由于供应量 极少，其价格在2025年8月达到每克2,400.53美元，价值比黄 金高出20倍。 德国锇金属研究所副所长Scarlett Clauss表示：“锇结晶 主要用于奢侈珠宝镶嵌，而非像黄金等贵金属那样作为主 要材料。在较大面积的珠宝设计中，锇既可以是单一添加元 素，也可用作点缀，因此每件首饰的需求量甚少。”目前可供 结晶化处理的锇仅剩不足半吨，因此价格持续上涨。 锇金属具有独特的安全特性。Clauss解释道：“每一块锇 结晶都拥有类似指纹的独特结构，可以防止伪造。” 纯锇原料在瑞士进行结晶处理，并在德国取得认证。每 块结晶锇都会在锇世界数据库中记录相应的识别码，以确 保其可追溯性。 市场势头强劲 锇金属研究所与国际设计师、生产商及品牌合作，以提 升这种金属在主流市场的吸引力。“我们预计未来几个月将 有更多品牌和设计师开始采用锇金属。”Clauss透露。 锇与钻石的组合尤其夺目迷人，正满足追求创新设计的 顾客需求。钻石在阳光下的闪烁光芒可达6米以外，而锇的 反射面更在30米外清晰可见，就像千面小镜子在闪闪生辉。 Clauss强调，锇的应用并非在取代钻石，而是作为一种 补充或替代品。她指出：“去年，香港地区的钻石商透露希望 在核心产品之外提供锇金属产品。口耳相传之下，需求正在 稳步上升。” Pictures above, from left: Lucia Bracelet by Lozz Madrid; Supernova Ring by Anthony Garcia of Brazil; Space Ring by Thomas Mrokon of Germany; and Mirror of Eternity Ring by Jorge Rojas of Spain 图片说明从左至右Lozz Madrid 设计的Lucia 手链；巴西设计师Anthony Garcia 创作的Supernova 戒指； 德国设计师Thomas Mrokon 创作的Space 戒指；以及来自西班牙设计师Jorge Rojas 的Mirror of Eternity 戒指 Osmium’s road to opulence 锇金属的华丽之路 The lustrous greyish-blue metal is making strides in the jewellery industry as a next-generation luxury material offering unprecedented exceptionality. 灰蓝色的锇金属绽放独一无二的光芒，正进身成为新一代的高级珠宝材料。
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