FOCUS 焦点 JNA May/June 2025 | 21 from pink and lagoon tourmaline to indicolite and rubellite. “While their prices have increased substantially over the years, tourmalines are still available in larger sizes that hold deep colours. Equivalents in the usual luxury gems would be prohibitive, not to mention challenging to find,” he explained. Laut observes that the Middle East market is interested in rubies, emeralds and sapphires but also nurtures a growing appreciation for tourmalines. “Rubellite is a great alternative to ruby. For starters, few can afford a 50-carat ruby. A 50-carat rubellite would enable one to have that big red statement piece,” said Laut, who specialises in big cocktail rings. Effective alternates Dharmendra Tank, owner of coloured gemstone specialist Heeralal Chhaganlal Tank, likewise points to increased market fascination for exotic, rare and less conventional stones. Aside from the coloured gemstone royalties and the emerging stars, rubellite, morganite, tourmaline and tanzanite have been doing particularly well for his company. “Consumers are veering toward colour in their jewellery, and they all want something different. For this reason, more gemstone varieties are moving well. Given current prices and supply constraints, you need to look beyond the Big Three to offer more substantial designs and striking colour combinations,” Dharmendra said. Again, these fine alternatives are not necessarily inexpensive. A nice rubellite can fetch US$2,000 to US$5,000 per carat, he revealed. “Bigger rubies and sapphires however are not readily available. If you want stones of 5, 10 and 15 carats, you need to explore other options. For instance, some tanzanite stones may seem royal blue in the light, not violet. Rubies are not the only red stones nor are emeralds the only green ones,” Dharmendra continued. “Jewellers that need bigger stones at a smaller budget for their designs have no choice but to consider further possibilities.” Indeed, replacement stones are increasingly proving their worth – and value – in the market. Saenfoo sees tsavorite making headway as an emerald alternate. Given its limited production, it is a rarer stone. Well-informed customers seeking green stones consider tsavorite as a good investment and a new selling point to consumers who want different choices, he said. Forms and shapes Special cuts and colour combinations are further points of differentiation that are serving gemstone dealers well. Heeralal Chhaganlal Tank banks on its capabilities in these areas to stand apart from the competition. Its portfolio includes layouts combining spessartite garnet, amethyst, emerald and morganite for jewellers wishing to produce dramatic sets at reasonable prices. Another ingenious offering is its selection of little tower cubes of gem-quality amethysts with square facets and rounded edges. The stones are offered in matching pairs and sets so clients can readily create their collections. “These cuts are extremely difficult to do and result in a lot of weight loss. But they highlight our cutting prowess and give us an edge in the business,” Dharmendra said. Unusual cuts are highly favoured in Hong Kong, mainland China and Europe. He remarked, “Jewellery manufacturers, designers and brands from around the world increasingly seek different gemstones, colours and cuts to stand out from the rest.” Amethyst also features in one of Keen Jade’s special designs – a pair of earrings with amethyst and guava quartz in a baguette briolette cut where the gemstone is domed at the top, flat at the bottom and has triangular facets. Cabochons are also making the rounds of luxury jewellery collections. The Bulgari Lotus Cabochon Necklace uses rubellite, turquoise, emerald and amethyst cabochons to create a floral shape, while the brand’s Augustus Aeternus Emerald Monete Sautoir combines diamonds and 149 emerald beads weighing a total of 615.04 carats to hold up a rare bronze coin pendant. Navlakha of Astrella Creations is just as enamoured with cabochons, which he describes as having “a nice bold look that is unparalleled.” Among his brand’s masterpieces is a long tanzanite and emerald necklace that intersperses cabochons and faceted stones. Sugarloaf cabochons are a favourite of Laut, who believes they work well with design-led pieces. Green tourmaline earrings and ring by Keen Jade Ltd 绿碧玺耳环和戒指， 金才有限公司出品 Amethyst and guava quartz earrings by Keen Jade Ltd 紫水晶配番石榴石耳环， 金才有限公司出品 Paraiba tourmaline ring by Alexander Laut Alexander Laut的帕拉依巴碧玺戒指
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