FOCUS 焦点 20 | JNA May/June 2025 over the years. “There is a real appreciation for aquamarines of late. It was never really treated as a high-end stone before, but people are now really using aquamarines in this top colour in fine and high jewellery,” he shared. But while more affordable than the coloured gemstone royalties, emerging gem favourites can also command higher prices, especially the good-quality material. Saenfoo said prices for better Paraiba tourmaline from Mozambique can easily double year on year, reaching around US$20,000 per carat and upwards of US$30,000 per carat for unheated stones. Good-quality spinel, meanwhile, can easily fetch US$15,000 to US$25,000 per carat, and prices of cobalt spinel from Mahenge, Tanzania may soon rival those of their Vietnamese counterparts, he continued. Emerging luxury gems Apart from the new trio, several other gemstones – many of which are more competitively priced – are likewise making their way into high jewellery lines. Rubellite has been enjoying a starring role in luxury jewellery brands’ recent releases. Cartier’s Nature Sauvage High Jewellery Collection trains the spotlight on the red gem in several key masterpieces. Its Chryseis Necklace alludes to fluttering butterfly wings through onyx and diamond patterns and round chrysoprase beads anchored by a 63.76carat rubellite. The zebra-themed Koaga Necklace has a 6.25-carat pear-shaped rubellite dangling from onyx and diamond stripes. The gemstone also takes pride of place in the turtleinspired Mochelys Brooch/Necklace that is enhanced by a 71.90-carat rubellite. Bulgari likewise expands the focus on less conventional stones in its Aeterna High Jewellery Collection. Case in point is the Earth Song necklace that includes round, oval and squared rubellites, amethysts, green tourmalines and diamonds in three strands of pink gold. For its part, Boghossian’s Inlay Crush Collection sets morganite, peridot and aquamarine in minimalist styles. Jewellery houses’ support for a wide range of gems is mirrored in the trade. According to Keen Jade’s Rbhava, there is a surge in interest for high-end pieces with tourmaline, “As the market is saturated with diamond jewellery, retailers are looking to include coloured gemstones to their showcases because these provide a different appeal and variety to their offerings. These will always bring customers in since gemstones allow you to experiment with designs, cuts and colours,” he disclosed. And as coloured gemstones gain ground, gem-set jewellery pieces featuring new favourites, ingenious colour combinations and innovative cuts are proving a compelling alternative for consumers. A new trio Paraiba tourmaline, spinel and aquamarine are the current frontrunners in luxury jewellery creations, with their alluring hues and versatility winning over buyers. Shantanu Navlakha, owner of Hong Kong-based Astrella Creations, said Paraiba tourmaline pieces are his brand’s best sellers. Sales have been especially strong in China and in some pockets of the Middle East. Potential for growth is tremendous, given that the Middle East has just recently started to embrace the stone, he revealed. Spinel is having a moment too, thanks to its varied colours and exceptional lustre. Jewellery designer Alexander Laut confesses to a fascination with the gem. “Spinel stones are beautiful, and they are highly collectible in an expansive palette of colours. Aside from red and pink, there are beautiful grey, blue and orange stones, among others,” he said. Saenfoo of Fancy Spinel Gems noted that despite continually rising prices, demand for spinel remains robust. Clients are willing to pay a premium as the stones are not as expensive as rubies and come in a wide range of pink and red shades. He added, “Our selection of cobalt blue spinel from Tanzania is equally engaging, with some buyers mistaking the stones for sapphires.” Aquamarine, particularly in the Santa Maria colour, is another stalwart in luxury jewellery lines. Saenfoo disclosed that his company’s loupe-clean Santa Maria aquamarines have a consistent following among upmarket jewellery designers and brands. Rbhava of Keen Jade, attested to this, noting that Santa Maria aquamarines have been steadily growing in popularity Santa Maria aquamarine earrings and necklace with a 14.62-carat pear-shaped centre stone adorned with alexandrite, diamonds and pearls by Keen Jade Ltd 金才有限公司的圣玛利亚海蓝宝石耳环及 项链镶嵌一颗 14.62 克拉梨形圣玛利亚海 蓝宝石，配以亚力山大石、钻石和珍珠 ‘Koaga’ Necklace with onyx, diamonds and a 6.25-carat rubellite, with matching earrings from the Nature Sauvage High Jewellery Collection of Cartier 卡地亚Nature Sauvage高级 珠宝系列Koaga项链，镶嵌黑 玛瑙、钻石和一颗6.25克拉 红碧玺，搭配同款耳环
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