RETAIL WATCH 零售观察 40 | JNA July/August 2025 Z世代出生于1997年至2012年间，以自我个性重谱 奢侈品的定义。前几代人将珠宝视为身分的象征， 强调价格、传承和独特性，而Z世代则赋予珠宝首饰 更深层次的价值，例如真实性、可持续性、数字化关联性和 个人意义。 “曾几何时，珠宝必须因应场合佩戴，现在则是个性的表 现。”意大利高级珠宝品牌EÉRA的联合创始人Chiara Capitani 解释。“Z世代希望通过珠宝展现自我，无需任何理由。” 打破常规 Z世代勇于挑战传统，通过文化诠释和情感深度的视角重 塑珠宝美学。全球咨询公司The Future Laboratory高级预测 分析师Alison Crossley表示，女性收藏手表、男性购买高级 珠宝的旧规则并不适用于Z世代。品牌意识到了这种转变， 从路易威登在2024年1月推出的男士珠宝系列可见一斑。 全球趋势预测机构WGSN的青年策略师Jaeyeon Park 表示，Z世代的叛逆本能驱动着“反叛”、“怀旧”和“社群”三 个命题。 “在当今全球多重危机的背景下，Z世代的集体挫败感 孕育出叛逆的设计风格。”Park指出，衍生自颓废摇滚和朋 克的亚文化和美学元素正在卷土重来，例如工业金属配件、 超大链条和铆钉饰带。 她补充道，这些硬朗而具颠覆性的配饰,为新一代提供了 视觉和情感的宣泄渠道，以时尚对抗现状。 EÉRA的Capitani表示赞同，并希望创造“出乎意料、俏皮 又略带叛逆”的作品，颠覆传统珠宝的保守规范。该品牌的 “模块化单品和工业元素”深深吸引了Z世代。 EÉRA的另一位创始人Romy Blanga称：“我们崇尚自由 美学，与Z世代的价值观不谋而合，首饰作品不局限于单一 的造型或氛围，可以随意玩味混搭，切合这一代不愿被单一 身分所定义的思维。” 以该品牌的标志性弹簧钩扣为例，设计师以霓虹色材料 或镶嵌钻石的形式重新演绎一件寻常物件，既实用又精致。 她补充道：“Z世代喜欢对立的碰撞。工业材质配合大胆的造 型和色彩，正是彰显个性的关键。” 当今消费者对奢侈品的定义也发生了转变，将传统的 “永恒”概念转化成动态的价值表达。Blanga表示，如今的 奢侈品市场正在转型，而EÉRA首饰的流动和灵活性正符合 Z世代的需求，娓娓道出自由的奢华故事。 been incorporating brooch-like features into their garment designs, adding a modern twist by creating tops and dresses with buckle-style elements or brooch-inspired accents around the straps or ruching the front.” "Young consumers favour maximalist and statement designs,” Park stated, noting that jewellery and accessories have moved from supporting roles to defining elements that establish an outfit's entire aesthetic. She also cited the rise of a “jewellified DIY aesthetic” marked by customisation, layered chains and even tooth gems. While Gen Z's gaming culture will continue to drive demand for digital collectibles and virtual fashion, experts are observing a post-pandemic shift toward tangible experiences and renewed interest in physical craftsmanship. Park said young people are increasingly returning to realworld spaces, embracing analogue aesthetics and in-person interactions. This shift, she added, is likely to foster greater appreciation for traditional craftsmanship. As Gen Z matures, Park expects growing demand for sophisticated, occasion-driven pieces like pearls for weddings and refined metal jewellery for holidays. Gen Z favours on-trend, versatile jewellery made from alternative materials to suit their fast-paced, travel-focused lifestyles. “Gen Z leans toward accessible, everyday styles, while Millennials still prefer fine jewellery, especially 14-karat gold charms and chokers,” noted designer Zeuner. Despite their digital roots and interest in fintech and cryptocurrency, Gen Z is also drawn to traditional wealth symbols. Crossley explained that they are turning to gold and silver to diversify. She added, “This blend of modern values and classic investment presents a major opportunity for the jewellery industry, especially when tied to heritage, sustainability and ownership.” Motifs and advocacies Gen Z’s love of nostalgia and individuality is fuelling demand for eclectic, vintage-inspired styles. Park said a revival of Bohemia is seen in chunky bangles, ornate pendants and upcycled elements with a modern twist. Retro designs are also trending. Zeuner noted the lasting popularity of 1980s-style “croissant” hoops, boosted by celebrity endorsers like Bieber. Crossley, for her part, alluded to Gen Z’s penchant for eco-friendly and socially responsible practices. A recent analysis by The Future Laboratory titled Regenerative Luxury Jewels revealed a transition toward atypical and repurposed materials, from glass to wood, soda cans, Tetra Pak, 3D printing, and even electronic waste. Blanga agreed that values now matter just as much as visuals. She added, “Gen Z is incredibly tuned in. They question how, where and why a product is made. There is desire for transparency and intention behind the beauty.” In response to growing demand, major jewellery players are pivoting toward more sustainable practices. Pandora, for instance, made headlines by announcing it would stop using mined silver and gold altogether, committing instead to recycled metals. Charms and necklace by Jennifer Zeuner 出自Jennifer Zeuner的吊饰和项链
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