DESIGN 设计 24 | JNA July/August 2025 | Bernardette Sto. Domingo 杜明高 | Rebellious and extraordinary, British jeweller Hannah Martin’s exceptional creations are an ode to unconventionality. 英国珠宝设计师Hannah Martin打破 传统规范，创出叛逆时尚风格。 The age of HIGH-END PUNK 奢华朋克新时代 C all it a classic case of serendipity. British art enthusiast Hannah Martin originally wanted to major in sculpture at Central Saint Martins in London but ended up taking jewellery design after her very own “aha moment.” “I stumbled upon jewellery by accident,” shared Martin. “I did not think it was something you could do as a career. I spent a week in a jewellery workshop as part of my foundation course and fell in love immediately. I never looked back.” In 2006, she founded her namesake fine jewellery brand – giving her innate creativity a permanent home. Bold new world Martin’s designs are wonderful digressions from the traditional, sometimes mundane, diamond jewellery in gold. She adores gold though – depicting the yellow metal as magical and indescribable. And in her jewellery designs, gold’s captivating appeal takes a more authentic, almost visceral, persona. Martin’s affinity for sculptural forms is most evident in her jewellery, juxtaposing soft and solid visual aspects that allude to a certain sensuality with an element of punk. What comes to mind is her New Rebel Bolt Bangle in 18-karat yellow and rose gold, with a carved malachite resting in the middle of the piece. The green gem also functions as an elegant screw closure. The bangle sums up what the designer describes as her signature style – bold, disruptive and unabashed artistry. “What makes my work stand out in the market is that I never think about the market,” shared Martin. “I tend to go against ‘trends’ and strive to create something that feels fresh and modern. I follow whatever it is that I find exciting at the time.” Drawing from diverse creative influences ranging from photography to sculpture, architecture, film and music, her jewellery pieces radiate a collective energy that is both striking and empowering. Subculture and subverting the status quo are also strong themes in Martin’s collections. She remarked, “I like to challenge what we see as luxury and what we understand as jewellery in a traditional sense. For example, why should jewellery be made specifically for men or women? I want my work to be for whoever it is that connects to it.” Modern jeweller Martin’s exceptional, norm-defying designs continue to turn heads in the broader luxury jewellery space. Over the years, she has created fine and high-jewellery collections for Louis Vuitton and Chaumet, and a fine jewellery collection for celebrated jewellery designer Francesca Amfitheatrof. Most recently, she collaborated with Coldplay bassist Guy Berryman, who also owns a fashion label, to create A Vanitas, an assortment of 18-karat gold jewellery with a distinctive razor blade motif. The collection draws inspiration from a popular Dutch art genre of the Baroque era that touches on the brevity of life and its fleeting beauty. The pieces, which include a razor 1) Diamond Ring of Fire ring in 18-karat white gold with round brilliantcut diamonds | Diamond Ring of Fire 18K戒指，镶圆形明亮式切割钻石; 2) Delirium Trance Amulet in 18-karat gold with enamel and a 2.74-carat emerald | Delirium Trance Amulet 18K金珐琅吊坠，镶嵌一颗2.74克拉祖母绿; 3) All Access Earring in 18-karat yellow and white gold from The Perfect Drug Collection | All Access 18K黄金及白金耳环，出自The Perfect Drug系列 1 2 3
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