JNA July/August 2025 | 19 FOCUS 焦点 Autumn Ear Drops of the Queen of the Stars in 3D-printed platinum from the Tùsaire Collection by Maeve Gillies 来自Maeve Gillies Tùsaire系列的秋季星之女王3D打印 铂金耳坠耳环 New frontier Scottish-American Maeve Gillies, founder and CEO of Maeve Gillies Design, turns to new technology to honour her Celtic heritage in an innovative direct metal 3D-printed platinum and titanium jewellery collection. Developed in collaboration with Platinum Guild International (PGI®), Tùsaire comprises 30 one-of-a-kind statement pieces, from torc necklaces with interchangeable elements to cuffs, rings and earrings. Seven pieces are set with rare Scottish rocks including Renfrewshire quartz. Gillies is no stranger to platinum, having used it extensively in her bridal collections. “I wanted to push the boundaries of what is possible with platinum and help people see it in a new light,” she remarked. “I was keen to spend time with the technology to understand its potential as a new tool for expressing creativity. With Tùsaire , aptly meaning “pioneer” in Scottish Gaelic, the jewellery designer sought to present platinum as bold, transformable and customisable. The collection enabled Gillies and PGI to identify advantages and challenges of 3D-printed platinum. For starters, printing larger parts remains costly, and hollow forms need to be strong enough to hold their shape but light enough to be wearable. Surface resolution and printing bed orientation are other key considerations. “These challenges represent brilliant opportunities – to incorporate the surface resolution as part of the jewellery design and to create unprecedented large forms in platinum,” Gillies revealed. The resulting Tùsaire pieces are ultralight and hollow, with bold designs featuring contrasting layers of unpolished, native 3D-printed platinum against high-polished surfaces. This collection is just the beginning in Gillies’ new chapter of exploration and creativity with technology. “3D printing is a very exciting tool to understand and incorporate further in creative practice, alongside a handcrafted mindset and an artistic vision,” said the designer, who also intends to produce electroformed platinum jewellery collections. 中国香港品牌Ikku Fine Jewellery的Flos Motus系列，揉合了唯美的艺术与卓越的 工艺，从大自然之色汲取丰富灵感，呈现陆 地的清新绿色与粉色，还有海洋与天空的迷人蓝调。 “香豌豆花是这系列的主要灵感之一，其花瓣兼 具花与蝴蝶的优雅姿色，浑然转化成作品的复杂形态 和娇美欲滴的色彩。”品牌创始人许玉琼说道。 幻变色彩 Flos Motus珠宝系列采用渐变色镀铑金制作，色 调随着宝石的颜色而转变。 “这种效果对技艺的要求较高。”她说。“如果生产 过程中出现任何差错，我们必须清除所有镀铑层并重 新制作。因此，每一件作品都是精雕细琢的优雅珍品， 彰显了我们对创新珠宝设计的坚持。” 她表示，所有镀层颜料都经过测试，以确保其低 致敏性及对人体无害。“虽然这些测试会增加生产成 本和时间，但我们致力于使用最优质的材料来打造精 美的作品。” 许玉琼曾荣获2023年A'设计大奖赛银奖，以及第 23届香港珠宝设计比赛公开组大奖，在国际声名大 噪。她对珠宝设计的热情激发她持续创新。 “近年来，营商环境的不稳定和金价上涨，为珠宝 行业带来重重挑战，需要创新且引人入胜的设计来吸 引消费者。”她说道。“这是我们首次推出渐变彩金新 品，希望为买家呈献特别的惊喜。” 开创崭新领域 苏格兰裔美国设计师Maeve Gillies是Maeve Gillies Design的创始人兼首席执行官，其铂金和钛 珠宝采用创新的直接金属3D打印技术，向其凯尔特 (Celtic)文化传统致敬。 Tùsaire系列与国际铂金协会(PGI®)合作开发而 成，包括30件独一无二的单品，从带有可替换部件的 项圈到手镯、戒指和耳环不等，其中七件镶嵌了伦弗 鲁郡石英（Renfrewshire quartz)等稀有的苏格兰宝 石。 Gillies擅于以铂金制作首饰，其婚庆系列就是以 铂金为主要材质。她说：“我渴望突破铂金的极限，為 它打造耳目一新的形象，并透过探索相关技术，以了 解其在表现创意上的巨大潜力。” Tùsaire在苏格兰盖尔语中意为“先驱”，Gillies也 特意为其铂金饰品赋予大胆鲜明、灵活百变和可定制 的元素。 该系列让Gillies和PGI意识到3D打印铂金的优势 和挑战。首先，打印大型部件成本依然高昂，而其空心 结构必须兼具坚固和轻盈的特质，以维持形状和易于 佩戴。表面分辨率和打印的摆放方向，也是其他关键 考虑因素。 Gillies透露：“对我来说，这些挑战也意味着可以 将表面分辨率的元素融入设计中，打造前所未有的大 型铂金结构。” Tùsaire系列的镂空作品轻盈无比，设计夺目，将未 抛光的3D打印铂金与高度抛光的表面形成强烈对比。 该系列面世后，Gillies将继续探索和善用尖端珠 宝技术。她说：“3D打印是一项优秀的创新工具，值得 继续深入研究，并与匠人思维和艺术视野相结合。”此 外，她正在构思推出电铸铂金首饰系列。
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