CONTENTS Issue #452 | JULY/AUGUST 2025 8DIGEST 市场指标 8 ‘Mediterranean Blue’ sells for US$21.5M “地中海之蓝”以2,150万美元落槌 20 DESIGN 设计 20 Sparkle of life 璀璨珠宝点亮人生 24 The age of high-end punk 奢华朋克新时代 10 FOCUS 焦点 10 Innovative strides in the trade 珠宝业创新科技跨步向前 18 Revolutionising modern jewellery design 革新珠宝设计
On the Cover 封面 Diamond jewellery set from De Beers’ bridal jewellery collection, featuring matching pear-shaped diamond ring and pendant worn with diamond necklace, bracelet and earrings 戴比尔斯婚嫁珠宝系列中的钻石首饰套装，包括一套梨形切割钻石戒指和吊 坠，搭配钻石项链、手链和耳环。 Digital version 电子版： https://news.jewellerynet.com/en/publications 31 ORIENT ODYSSEY 2.0 珠光宝旅 2.0 31 Orient Odyssey 2.0: The next journey 珠光宝旅2.0: 载誉启航 32 The enduring allure of pearls 历久弥新的珍珠魅力 33 Innovative freshwater pearls 淡水珍珠焕发新姿 34 Golden pearls, golden prospects 金光流转的南洋珠 35 Pearls on a growth trajectory 顶级珍珠带动增长势头 36 South Sea pearls regaining sparkle 南洋珠光彩再现 42 MARKET INTELLIGENCE 市场情报 42 Fresh, enticing initiatives at JGW 2025 2025年JGW崭新活动精彩纷呈 44 China’s freshwater pearls in the limelight 淡水珍珠的锦绣前景 50 Why mixed-metal jewellery is more than a trend 混合金属首饰何以超越潮流 53 Gems and jewellery shine at JGAB 2025 JGAB 2025闪耀曼谷 56 Jadeite retains edge in a changing world 翡翠在复杂多变的环境中稳住优势 26 SPOTLIGHT 市场聚焦 26 Building a sustainable future: Sustainability Awards 2025 by JWA finalists unveiled 共创辉煌未来：2025年JWA 可持续发展大奖公布决赛入围名单 38 RETAIL WATCH 零售观察 38 Catching the fancy of Gen Z Z世代的破界时尚
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DIGEST 市场指标 8 | JNA July/August 2025 印度 US$21.5M 2,150万美元 Amount fetched by the Mediterranean Blue diamond at Sotheby’s Geneva on May 13, 2025, making it the most valuable jewel sold so far this year. The 10.03-carat fancy vivid blue diamond of VS2 clarity grade was purchased by an American private collector. Sotheby’s Head of Jewelry, Americas & EMEA Quig Bruning said the attention that it generated throughout global viewings across the Middle East, Asia and the US, as well as the auction result itself, reflected the growing appetite for rare and impeccable diamonds. 钻石“地中海之蓝”于2025年5月13日，在日内瓦苏富比拍卖会上的成交 价，成为今年迄今为止售出的最高价值的珠宝。这颗重10.03克拉、净度等 级为VS2的艳彩蓝钻由一位美国私人收藏家购得。苏富比欧美及中东珠 宝部主管Quig Bruning表示，这颗钻石在中东、亚洲及美国的全球预展中 引发热议，而其成交结果也印证了市场对稀有无瑕钻石的渴求。 131.21 carats 克拉 Weight in carats of the world’s fourth largest spinel, set in the centre of the Celestial Mosaic necklace from Bulgari’s Polychroma High Jewellery Collection. Making this necklace ultra unique is the spinel’s fiery glow paired with the deep turquoise hue of tourmaline. The multicolour mosaic of buff-top emeralds and onyx and other coloured gemstones and diamonds also complement the spinel’s extraordinary beauty. 世界第四大尖晶石的重量。这颗宝石镶嵌在宝格丽Polychroma高级珠宝 系列的Celestial Mosaic项链上，成为点睛之作。这颗尖晶石散发着火红 炽热的光芒，与项链上深绿松石色调的碧玺交相辉映，更显其独一无二的 魅力。由圆顶式切割祖母绿、缟玛瑙及各种彩宝交织而成的缤纷马赛克， 也与尖晶石的非凡之美相得益彰。 Online Trade Updates 新闻快讯 Jewelers of America takes in MJSA 美国珠宝商协会接管MJSA业务 GIA expands nacre scale for pearl testing GIA扩大珍珠层检测范围 New inroads to redefining ‘conflict diamonds’ “冲突钻石”在扩大定义方 面取得突破性进展 The Manufacturing Jewelers and Suppliers of America (MJSA) will become part of the Jewelers of America (JA) in a move aimed at streamlining and strengthening the US jewellery industry. 美国珠宝制造商与供应商协会(MJSA)将并入美 国珠宝商协会(JA)，此举旨在整合资源、提升美国 珠宝行业整体实力。 The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) is enhancing the way it evaluates nacre, which is a key factor in all GIA pearl classification reports. GIA美国宝石研究院宣布将GIA珍珠分级报告引 入更详细珍珠层评级。这次是GIA珍珠分级系统 的重要扩展。 The World Diamond Council (WDC) cited “meaningful progress” made towards expanding the Kimberley Process (KP) definition of conflict diamonds during a KP meeting in Dubai. 世界钻石理事会(WDC)代表在迪拜的金伯利进程 (KP)会议上表示，与会者在扩大金伯利进程对“冲 突钻石”的定义方面取得“有意义的进展”。 Our digital platform provides additional content for an even more comprehensive industry perspective. Scan the QR code for the full story and more trade news. 我们的数字平台载有更多更全面的 行业视角报道，请扫瞄二维码查看 全文和更多行业信息。 news.jewellerynet.com/en/jnanews The Mediterranean Blue diamond (Photo credit: Sotheby’s) 地中海之蓝（图片来源：苏富比） The Celestial Mosaic necklace from Bulgari’s Polychroma High Jewellery Collection 宝格丽Polychroma高级珠宝系列 的Celestial Mosaic项链
FOCUS 焦点 10 | JNA July/August 2025 From artificial intelligence (AI), provenance and traceability programmes to innovative diamond solutions, the gem and jewellery industry is embracing technology to enhance operations, offer sophisticated services and meet customer requirements. Gübelin Gem Lab blazes a trail in leveraging new technology, adopting AI and developing traceability platforms long before these were fully embraced by the trade. And it is not resting on its laurels as it continues to expand the capabilities of its groundbreaking initiatives. Its AI-powered Gemtelligence, launched in February 2023, can determine the origin of rubies, blue sapphires and emeralds and identify heat treatment in rubies and blue sapphires. The system is integrated in all the lab’s testing protocols in its operations in Lucerne, Hong Kong, New York and Bangkok as well as its mobile laboratories. Every Gemtelligence result though undergoes a plausibility check from a senior gemmologist before it is released. Gemtelligence was trained on a combination of coloured gemstones from the Gübelin Reference Stone Collection that has over 30,000 stones of high authenticity, and a carefully curated selection of client stones received over the course of more than 100 years. The lab’s database is continually updated and expanded with stones from its field trips, most recent ones being to Tanzania, Vietnam, Pakistan and Madagascar. Together with the Gübelin Academy, the lab also acquired a collection of more than 1,800 reference samples from its former head of Research, Dietmar Schwarz. After careful analysis and scrutiny, this was likewise included in the training data. Significant gains While the most immediate impact of Gemtelligence is greater consistency of results in lab reports, the system also manages to retrieve more information from less data, according to Gübelin Gem Lab Managing Director Daniel Nyfeler. “In some cases, this allows us to shorten the testing protocol. For some stones, we can forgo certain timeconsuming microscopic description and/or the expensive chemical analysis by Laser Ablation ICPMS,” he noted. These efficiency gains and cost savings prompted Gübelin Gem Lab to offer the streamlined Gem Passport service and even open a location in Bangkok. Provenance Proof platform 原产地证明平台 | Olivia Quiniquini 程爱莉 | Technological advancements and ingenious initiatives deliver greater efficiencies and growth possibilities in the gem and jewellery industry. 技术革新与独创性的举措，有效提升宝石和珠宝行业的效率和增长潜力。 珠宝业创新科技跨步向前 INNOVATIVE STRIDES in the trade
FOCUS 焦点 JNA July/August 2025 | 11 At CHF 200 (around US$243), the Gem Passport provides country of origin and heat treatment determination for rubies, blue sapphires and emeralds of up to 3 carats. “Owing to the significantly lower cost and the swift turnaround times for Gem Passport, many clients now consider using Gübelin Gem Lab for gemstones of commercial quality,” Nyfeler disclosed. “Also, many of the bigger brands, which buy large volumes of smaller stones, have started to use Gem Passports for stones whose value would not justify the cost of a standard Gübelin Gem Lab Report.” According to Nyfeler, Gübelin Gem Lab’s main development project this year is getting Gemtelligence ready for external use. Third parties such as other gem labs or large brands that operate their own labs will be able to use Gemtelligence to interpret data they collect on their stones in their premises. “We are already speaking to some select laboratories that are keen to partner with us on this. Towards the end of this year, the technology to grant externals access to Gemtelligence should be ready, and third parties can start profiting from the knowledge and expertise contained in the system,” he disclosed. Companies using the Gemtelligence service can decide whether to disclose their partnership with Gübelin Gem Lab, Nyfeler added. Traceability for gems It was also Gübelin Gem Lab that first introduced traceability for coloured gemstones with the official launch of the Emerald Paternity Test in 2017 followed by the Provenance Proof Initiative to track the origin and journey of gemstones. Today, the latter leads tracking and tracing technologies in the coloured gemstone industry with over 40 million gems on the Provenance Proof Blockchain and a community of more than 700 companies. Provenance Proof, which spun off from Gübelin Gem Lab in 2020, now also encompasses diamonds and jewellery. “Major diamond manufacturers and jewellery brands have started to apply the nano-tracers from Provenance Proof on melée diamonds and jewellery this year, making true, verifiable supply chain transparency a more standard feature of jewellery,” said Nyfeler. KGK Suisse SA launched the first DNA-tagged melee diamonds in May. These diamonds are fully verifiable on the blockchain and come with Provenance Proof certificates of origin. Diamond traceability is indeed gaining momentum in a market seeking greater transparency, with more enterprises adding tracking functionalities to their stones. In June, Botswana-based rough diamond marketing company, the Okavango Diamond Company (ODC) joined Tracr, the industry-wide diamond blockchain programme developed by De Beers Group. Wholly owned by the government of Botswana, ODC began registering its rough diamonds in the 3 gram-to-6 gram and 2-carat to 10-carat sizes on Tracr, increasing the availability of traceable diamonds from the country. Operational ease In the midstream, ingenious breakthroughs are poised to deliver significant benefits. Case in point is the Certified Hybrid Diamond Master Set, which is proving a game changer for colour grading. Developed in collaboration with the Accredited Gemologists Association (AGA), Stuller Inc and GCAL by Sarine, this Retail-facing DiamondProof diamond verification machine from De Beers Group 戴比尔斯集团的DiamondProof钻石鉴别仪，专为零售商而設 Gem Passport from Gübelin Gem Lab 古宝琳宝石鉴定所的宝石护照
FOCUS 焦点 12 | JNA July/August 2025 hybrid option combines natural diamonds and lab-grown diamonds (LGDs), providing the trade with cost-effective alternatives to expensive master sets that are difficult to source. According to Stuller Inc Director of Gemstone Procurement Guy Borenstein, the global availability of essential tools for accurate colour grading has declined significantly due to rising costs and limited supply. This shortage has affected gemmological laboratories, diamond dealers, retailers and appraisers, while impacting consumers who depend on jewellery professionals for expert guidance and accurate grading. Available from Stuller by end-2025, the Certified Hybrid Diamond Master Sets will comprise seven stones. E-F-G are LGDs while H-I-J-K are natural diamonds. Borenstein said, “Combining natural and lab-grown diamonds in a single set offers two primary advantages: Greater access to specific colour grades and a significant decrease in cost. All stones will be supplied by Stuller, and the LGDs will primarily be High Pressure High Temperature (HPHT) stones to avoid undesired tints.” According to Stuller, more than 200 professionals from around the world – including gemmologists, appraisers, gemmological educators, retailers, jewellers and manufacturers – have expressed strong interest in the hybrid master sets, with the list continuing to grow steadily as awareness spreads. India-based Diamtech Research Centre Pvt Ltd (DRC), for its part, is simplifying the processing of small diamonds. Its new Dia Measure machine fully automates the measurement, counting, sorting and visual inspection of loose round diamonds, especially of small sizes from 0.90mm to 4.00mm, with micron-level accuracy up to three decimal places (0.005 MM). Diamtech Research Centre Pvt Ltd CEO Hardik Patel said the machine eliminates key pain points such as manual counting mistakes, inconsistent size profiles, invisible breakage, oval stones in a round batch and time-consuming handling. The machine detects chipped culets, girdles and shape deviations before final packaging; processes up to 5,500 diamonds per hour, sorted into 10 profiles; and does not require calibration or cleaning. Developed over a 26-month period, Dia Measure costs US$25,000, with ROI typically achievable in 12 to 18 months, thanks to significant savings in labour, time, and stone damage, said Patel. “We have had strong interest from current clients who have long expressed the need for automation in diamond measuring and counting,” he continued. “Demand is particularly robust from high-volume jewellery manufacturing firms, diamond melee assortment houses and watch manufacturers.” Patel revealed that DRC aims to launch fully automated diamond bagging technology by late 2025. Its GEMID Diamond Fingerprint Technology will also soon allow verification even after the diamond has been mounted in single stone studded jewellery. “This breakthrough is especially useful for retailers with buyback or exchange programmes. When a customer walks in with a jewellery piece, GEMID’s compact desktop unit will instantly identify and match the diamonds to their original registration data – without needing to remove the stones or send them to a workshop. It is a game-changing tool to detect swaps or fraud in seconds and build long-term trust with customers,” he remarked. On the retail front De Beers is bringing diamond verification to the retail level too. DiamondProof, which distinguishes natural diamonds from LGDs and diamond simulants, is now available in select retail stores of early adopter customers in the US and India. According to David Johnson, vice president for Corporate Communications of De Beers Group, DiamondProof’s first production run was relatively limited but will be ramped up based on demand. Stuller is the US sales distributor for the retail-facing device. “What sets DiamondProof apart from other instruments is the fact that it has been specifically designed to be used on the retail counter to support consumer confidence at Scan of an amethyst ring with an Experloop microchip 植入Experloop微芯片的紫水晶戒指扫描图 Dia Measure automated measurement and sorting machine for small diamonds from Diamtech Research Centre Pvt Ltd (DRC) 科技公司Diamtech Research Centre Pvt Ltd (DRC)的Dia Measure 自动测量和分选机，适用于小型钻石
FOCUS 焦点 JNA July/August 2025 | 13 the point of sale,” shared Johnson. “With its sleek design, user-friendly interface and large screen, it is perfectly suited to educate consumers about natural diamonds and what distinguishes them from LGDs.” Consumer engagement is another downstream priority. The “Origin, De Beers Group” branded polished diamond offering enables retailers to tell individual stories of natural diamonds sourced by De Beers, thereby strengthening the connection between a diamond and the individual who wears it. Consumers will get to explore the details of their diamond’s country of origin and journey through the value chain, supported by the Tracr blockchain platform. They can likewise access information about their unique purchase, including its rarity score and the social impact programmes it has supported. Retailers will be provided with advanced digital tools as well, enhancing consumer engagement through seamless access to provenance information and brand storytelling. Jewellery narratives Transparency and traceability extend to jewellery too, thanks to Experloop, the world’s first gold microchip for the certification and identification of jewellery and watches. Developed by Singapore jeweller Michael Koh, the 2mm round gold RFID microchip is attached to watches and jewellery and can be scanned to retrieve relevant data on the piece’s legacy and story. The item’s owner can access and update their data directly through the Experloop software system. According to Koh, his main objective is to allow the jewellery piece “to tell its own story.” Since jewellery is often passed down to the next generation or resold, Experloop was created to consolidate the core memories, milestones and complex emotions associated with the piece, together with documentation such as certificates, invoices and important information that can sometimes get lost or misplaced. First used in Koh’s jewellery creations and sold in his boutique, Caratell, Experloop is now available commercially. “Demand is coming from jewellers, watch and jewellery brands, and insurance companies, with interest from various geographic markets,” said Koh. “Even my previous clients who learned that we now have this technology came back to have their jewellery fitted with the microchip.” Priced at US$30 to US$35, the patent-pending chip uses passive RFID technology and requires sensory touch activation, which guards against unauthorised scanning. Biometric authentication requirements also ensure that the process is secure. Experloop also protects against counterfeiting. Noting that global brands lose millions of dollars annually due to the influx of counterfeit goods from the black market, Koh said, “Logos, tags, even serial numbers can be faked, but a microchip with a signal and data that only lives in the Experloop network can be sold and assigned to brands, installed in their pieces, and instantly verify their authenticity and value.” The chip’s casing is designed for easy assembly into jewellery. It is waterproof, resistant to ultrasonic washing and plating, and can withstand high temperatures of up to 180 degrees Celsius. “Experloop meets consumer demands for authenticity, provenance and storytelling, while providing a secure and permanent way to store important information,” said Koh. “Companies and brands currently rely on the customer's memory to keep the story alive. Experloop allows all necessary details – including brand information and the customers’ purchase drivers – to be embedded within the jewellery itself.” Diamond key pendant and a sapphire and diamond lock pendant fitted with Experloop microchips 植入Experloop微芯片的钻石钥 匙吊坠、蓝宝石和钻石锁吊坠 Certified Hybrid Diamond Master Set 认证混合钻石鉴定参考套装
FOCUS 焦点 14 | JNA July/August 2025 他透露：“我们已与一些有意合作的鉴定所洽谈。到了今年 年底，授予外部访问Gemtelligence的技术应该准备就绪，令第 三方可以开始受惠于Gemtelligence所蕴含的专业知识。” 使用Gemtelligence服务的公司可以决定是否披露与古 宝琳宝石鉴定所的合作关系。 可追溯宝石 古宝琳在2017年首次正式推出祖母绿亲子鉴定(Emerald Paternity Test)，率先为行业引入彩色宝石溯源；随后又推出 了原产地证明(Provenance Proof)计划，以追踪宝石的来源 和旅程。如今，这个原产地证明区块链上已记录了超过4千万 颗宝石，当中汇聚700多家公司，奠定古宝琳在彩色宝石追踪 和溯源技术方面的领先地位。 原产地证明计划在2020年从古宝琳宝石鉴定所独立出 来，现在也涵盖钻石和珠宝。 Nyfeler说：“今年，大型钻石制造商和珠宝品牌已开始将 原产地证明计划的纳米追踪技术，应用于米粒钻和珠宝，使 真实可验证、高透明度的供应链成为珠宝行业的标配。” KGK Suisse SA在5月推出了首批带有DNA标签的米粒 钻，可在区块链上彻底验证，并附有原产地证明证书。 在追求更高透明度的市场中，钻石可追溯性确实大 有作为。今年6月，博茨瓦纳毛坯钻石营销公司Okavango Diamond Company (ODC)加入了Tracr区块链项目。 ODC由博茨瓦纳政府全资拥有，已开始在Tracr上为重量 3克至6克、2克拉至10克拉的毛坯钻石进行注册，以增加该 国可追溯钻石的供应。 灵活便利 行业中游领域也有所突破，有望创造明显效益。 认证混合钻石鉴定参考套装(Certified Hybrid Diamond Master Set)正在改变钻石颜色分级的格局。该套装由认可 宝石学家协会(AGA)、Stuller Inc和尚灵GCAL宝石鉴定实验 室合作开发，结合了天然钻石和培育钻石，有效取代昂贵且 难以采购的传统套装。 Stuller Inc宝石采购总监Guy Borenstein称，由于成本上 升和供应有限，用于精确颜色分级的必备工具出现全球性 短缺，对宝石鉴定所、钻石经销商、零售商、估价师，还有依 赖专业人士提供指导和准确分级的消费者构成影响。 Stuller将于2025年底推出认证混合钻石鉴定参考套装， 全数七颗钻石之中的E、F、G级是培育钻石，而H、I、J、K则是 天然钻石。 Borenstein表示：“天然和培育钻石混合套装有两个主要 优势，就是更容易获得特定的颜色等级，并显著降低成本。 所有钻石将由Stuller供应，其培育钻石主要采用高温高压法 (HPHT)生成，以避免出现不理想的色调。” 宝石和珠宝行业拥抱尖端技术，实施AI人工智能、 原产地和可追溯性程序以至创新的钻石解决方 案，以更高的运营水平和服务满足客户需求。早 在新技术普及之前，古宝琳宝石鉴定所已率先采用人工智 能和开发可追溯性平台，持续推陈出新。 其人工智能驱动的Gemtelligence系统于2023年2月正 式面世，用于鉴定红宝石、蓝宝石和祖母绿的产地，并识别 红宝石和蓝色蓝宝石有否进行加热处理。该系统已整合至 古宝琳位于琉森、中国香港、纽约、曼谷，以及其移动实验室 的所有检测规程中。发布每项Gemtelligence的检测结果前， 都会经过高级宝石学家的合理性检查。 Gemtelligence的训练样本包括古宝琳参考宝石库的 30,000多颗真品宝石，以及百多年来不同客户的精选宝石。 古宝琳的数据库得以持续更新和扩充，并新增了实地考察 的宝石，最近的来源地包括坦桑尼亚、越南、巴基斯坦和马 达加斯加。 前研究部主管Dietmar Schwarz为鉴定所与古宝琳宝石 学院提供超过1,800项参考样品，经过仔细分析和审查后也 被纳入训练数据。 惠及行业 古宝琳宝石鉴定所总经理Daniel Nyfeler 称 ， Gemtelligence最直接的影响力在于改善鉴定报告结果的一 致性，还能从更少的数据中萃取更多信息。 他指出：“在某些情况下，我们能够缩短检测流程，也可 以省去某些耗时的微观描述以至昂贵的激光剥蚀电感耦合 等离子体质谱(LA-ICP-MS)化学分析。”效率提升和成本节约 容许鉴定所提供更精简的“宝石护照”服务，甚至在曼谷开 设实验室。 “宝石护照”服务价格为200瑞士法郎(约243美元)，可 为重量不超过3克拉的红宝石、蓝宝石和祖母绿提供原产地 和加热处理鉴定服务。 “由于宝石护照的成本显著降低且处理时间缩短，许多 客户现在也考虑将商业级宝石交于古宝琳鉴定。”Nyfeler透 露。“此外，许多采购大量小型宝石的知名品牌也开始使用 ‘宝石护照’服务，鉴定那些通常不值得进行标准古宝琳宝 石学鉴定的材料。” Nyfeler解释，古宝琳今年的主要项目是让Gemtelligence 做好外部使用的准备。第三方独立使用者包括其他宝石鉴 定所或自设鉴定所的大型品牌，将能够使用Gemtelligence 分析宝石数据。 Spinel lotus ring with Experloop microchip 植入Experloop微芯片的尖晶石莲花戒指 Experloop microchip Experloop微芯片
FOCUS 焦点 16 | JNA July/August 2025 界面和大屏幕，非常适合在销售点介绍天然与培育钻石的 区别，增强消费者的信心。” 下游消费者的参与是另一项重点。抛光钻石品牌“Origin, De Beers Group”，让零售商将该集团的天然钻石故事娓娓 道来，从而加强钻石与其主人之间的联系。消费者可以通过 Tracr区块链平台了解其钻石的原产地和在价值链中的旅 程，还可以访问相关信息，包括其稀有度评分，以及支持的 社会影响项目。零售商还将获得先进的数字工具，通过无缝 访问原产地信息和品牌故事提升消费者参与度。 珠宝故事 Experloop是全球首个用于珠宝和手表的金质微芯片，将 透明度和可追溯性扩展到珠宝领域。 这款由新加坡珠宝商Michael Koh开发的2毫米圆形 金质RFID无线射频辨识微芯片，可附加在手表和珠宝上， 扫描检索相关数据和传承故事。珠宝主人可以直接通过 Experloop软件系统访问和更新资料。 Koh的目标是让珠宝“讲述自己的故事”。由于珠宝通常 会传给后代或转售，因此他希望将与相关的核心记忆、重要 里程碑和复杂情感，以及证书、发票和容易丢失的重要信息 等融会整合。 Experloop技术最初用于Koh的Caratell珠宝店自家作品， 现已面向更广大的商业市场。他说：“不同地域市场的珠宝 商、手表和珠宝品牌及保险公司均呈现需求。我们以前的客 户在得知这项技术后，也纷纷回来为珠宝植入微芯片。” 这款正在申请专利的芯片售价为30至35美元，采用无 源RFID技术，需要通过触摸感应激活，以防止未经授权的扫 描。生物识别身分验证要求也确保了其安全性。 Experloop还有防止假冒的功能。由于黑市赝品的涌入， 全球品牌每年损失数百万美元。Koh表示：“标识、标签，甚至 序列号都可能被伪造，但Experloop的微芯片仅办识自家网 络中的信号和数据，客户品牌可将其安装在产品上，即时验 证其真实性和价值。” 芯片设计易于组装到珠宝中，而且防水、耐超声波清洗 和电镀，并可承受高达摄氏180度的高温。 “Experloop满足了消费者对真实性、可追溯性和故事叙 述的需求，同时为存储重要信息提供了一种安全永久的方 式。”Koh说道。“目前，不少公司和品牌仍然依靠顾客的记忆 来传承故事。Experloop能够将所有必要的细节——包括品牌 信息和顾客的购买动机嵌入珠宝之中，紧密相随。” Stuller表示，世界各地已有200多位专业人士对该套装 深感兴趣，包括宝石学家、估价师、宝石学教育工作者、零售 商、珠宝商和制造商。随着此方面的认知度不断提升，潜在 客户名单将稳步增长。 印度科技公司Diamtech Research Centre Pvt Ltd (DRC) 正在简化小型钻石的数量计算、量度和分类流程。 全新Dia Measure仪器可完全自动化量度、计算、分类和 目视检测圆形裸钻，尤其适用于0.90毫米至4.00毫米的小 尺寸钻石，精确度可达小数点后三位(0.005毫米)的微米级。 Diamtech Research Centre Pvt Ltd首席执行官Hardik Patel表示，该仪器解决了一些关键痛点，例如人工计算错 误、尺寸不一致、肉眼可见的破损、圆形批次中出现椭圆形 钻石，还有耗时的操作。 该仪器可在最终包装前检测出钻石的底尖破损、腰棱和 形状偏差；每小时最多可处理5,500颗钻石，并分成10个种 类；而且无需进行校准或清洁。 Patel指出，Dia Measure的研发历时26个月，价格为 25,000美元，鉴于大幅节省了人工、时间和宝石损耗，有望 在12至18个月内实现投资回报。 他续称：“现在我们有不少客户对钻石测量和计算自动 化呈现强烈需求。大批量珠宝制造商、米粒钻分类公司和手 表制造商尤其感到兴趣。” Patel透露，DRC计划在2025年底推出全自动钻石装袋 技术。而GEMID钻石指纹技术也可检测已镶嵌在单石珠宝 中的钻石。 “这项突破性技术尤其有助于零售商推行回购或换货 计划。当顾客带着珠宝走进店内，体积小巧的GEMID桌面设 备将可立即识别钻石，并与其原始注册数据进行匹配——全 程无需取出宝石或将其送往工坊，仅在几秒内即可检测出 掉包或欺诈行为，有助建立客户的长期信任。”他说。 零售措施 戴比尔斯集团也将钻石验证技术引入零售层面 。 DiamondProof可以区分天然钻石、培育钻石和钻石仿制品， 目前已在美国和印度的指定零售店面向早期采用者销售。 戴比尔斯集团企业传播副主席David Johnson指出 ， DiamondProof的首批产量相对有限，但将根据需求逐步增 加。Stuller是这款面向零售设备的美国经销商。 “DiamondProof与其他仪器的区别在于它专为零售柜 台而设。”Johnson分享道。“它拥有时尚的设计、简单易用的 Gübelin Gem Lab Chief Gemmologist Alessandra Spingardi at the corundum mine in Winza, Tanzania to collect reference samples 古宝琳宝石鉴定所首席宝石学家Alessandra Spingardi在坦桑尼亚Winza的刚玉矿区采集参考样品
FOCUS 焦点 18 | JNA July/August 2025 The jewellery industry is thriving and evolving, thanks to technological advancements and new cutting-edge techniques in jewellery production. Manufacturers and designers continually push boundaries to create innovative, visually stunning pieces. The Flos Motus Collection of Hong Kong-based Ikku Fine Jewellery exemplifies the fusion of artistry and superior craftsmanship. Inspired by the beauty of nature, the collection captures refreshing greens and pinks from land alongside mesmerising blues of the sky and the ocean. “One of the key design inspirations is sweet pea. Its delicate petals, which embody the grace of both flowers and butterflies, are reflected in the intricate shapes and colours of each piece,” said brand founder Yukking Hui. Colour gradience Jewellery in the Flos Motus Collection is further enhanced by gradient-coloured rhodium-plated gold, which shifts in hue to complement gemstone colours. “This intricate technique requires a high level of craftsmanship,” remarked Hui. “If a mistake occurs during the production process, we must remove all rhodium pigments and restart completely. Therefore, each piece is meticulously crafted. The collection embodies elegance and precision, a testament to our dedication to innovative jewellery designs.” According to Hui, all pigments undergo testing to ensure they are hypoallergenic. “While these tests increase production costs and time, we are committed to producing beautiful pieces using only the finest materials,” she explained. An internationally renowned designer, Hui won the silver award in the A’ Design Award & Competition 2023 and took home the Best of Show Award in the Open Group of the 23rd Hong Kong Jewellery Design Competition. Her passion for jewellery design drives her creative innovation. “The jewellery industry has faced numerous challenges in recent years amid uncertain business conditions and rising gold prices. Innovative, captivating designs are needed to entice consumers to purchase jewellery,” she said. “I am thrilled to introduce the gradient-coloured rhodium technique for the first time in our collection, bringing something new to the market.” Caelum Petalina earrings in 18-karat white gold with diamonds and blue sapphires from Ikku Fine Jewellery’s Flos Motus Collection 来自Ikku Fine Jewellery Flos Motus系列的Caelum Petalina 18K白金耳环，镶有蓝宝石和钻石 Cuffs of the Princess of the Rivers in 3D-printed platinum from the Tùsaire Collection by Maeve Gillies 来自 Maeve Gillies Tùsaire系 列的河流公主3D 打印铂金开口手镯 Rosarum ring in 18-karat rose gold with diamonds, pink sapphires and tsavorites from Ikku Fine Jewellery’s Flos Motus Collection 来自Ikku Fine Jewellery Flos Motus 系列的Rosarum 18K玫瑰金和戒指， 镶有粉红色蓝宝石、沙弗来石和钻石 MODERN JEWELLERY DESIGN Revolutionising 革新珠宝设计 | Sharon Kwok 郭芷雯 and Olivia Quiniquini 程爱莉 | Advanced technologies and techniques are driving breakthroughs in jewellery production, yielding fascinating collections that meld ingenuity and artistic expression. 先进的科技与技术革新，让设计师的奇思妙想得以实践，也驱动了珠宝制造业不断突破界限；创造力 与艺术表现完美结合，成就了一件又一件创意非凡的惊艳杰作。
JNA July/August 2025 | 19 FOCUS 焦点 Autumn Ear Drops of the Queen of the Stars in 3D-printed platinum from the Tùsaire Collection by Maeve Gillies 来自Maeve Gillies Tùsaire系列的秋季星之女王3D打印 铂金耳坠耳环 New frontier Scottish-American Maeve Gillies, founder and CEO of Maeve Gillies Design, turns to new technology to honour her Celtic heritage in an innovative direct metal 3D-printed platinum and titanium jewellery collection. Developed in collaboration with Platinum Guild International (PGI®), Tùsaire comprises 30 one-of-a-kind statement pieces, from torc necklaces with interchangeable elements to cuffs, rings and earrings. Seven pieces are set with rare Scottish rocks including Renfrewshire quartz. Gillies is no stranger to platinum, having used it extensively in her bridal collections. “I wanted to push the boundaries of what is possible with platinum and help people see it in a new light,” she remarked. “I was keen to spend time with the technology to understand its potential as a new tool for expressing creativity. With Tùsaire , aptly meaning “pioneer” in Scottish Gaelic, the jewellery designer sought to present platinum as bold, transformable and customisable. The collection enabled Gillies and PGI to identify advantages and challenges of 3D-printed platinum. For starters, printing larger parts remains costly, and hollow forms need to be strong enough to hold their shape but light enough to be wearable. Surface resolution and printing bed orientation are other key considerations. “These challenges represent brilliant opportunities – to incorporate the surface resolution as part of the jewellery design and to create unprecedented large forms in platinum,” Gillies revealed. The resulting Tùsaire pieces are ultralight and hollow, with bold designs featuring contrasting layers of unpolished, native 3D-printed platinum against high-polished surfaces. This collection is just the beginning in Gillies’ new chapter of exploration and creativity with technology. “3D printing is a very exciting tool to understand and incorporate further in creative practice, alongside a handcrafted mindset and an artistic vision,” said the designer, who also intends to produce electroformed platinum jewellery collections. 中国香港品牌Ikku Fine Jewellery的Flos Motus系列，揉合了唯美的艺术与卓越的 工艺，从大自然之色汲取丰富灵感，呈现陆 地的清新绿色与粉色，还有海洋与天空的迷人蓝调。 “香豌豆花是这系列的主要灵感之一，其花瓣兼 具花与蝴蝶的优雅姿色，浑然转化成作品的复杂形态 和娇美欲滴的色彩。”品牌创始人许玉琼说道。 幻变色彩 Flos Motus珠宝系列采用渐变色镀铑金制作，色 调随着宝石的颜色而转变。 “这种效果对技艺的要求较高。”她说。“如果生产 过程中出现任何差错，我们必须清除所有镀铑层并重 新制作。因此，每一件作品都是精雕细琢的优雅珍品， 彰显了我们对创新珠宝设计的坚持。” 她表示，所有镀层颜料都经过测试，以确保其低 致敏性及对人体无害。“虽然这些测试会增加生产成 本和时间，但我们致力于使用最优质的材料来打造精 美的作品。” 许玉琼曾荣获2023年A'设计大奖赛银奖，以及第 23届香港珠宝设计比赛公开组大奖，在国际声名大 噪。她对珠宝设计的热情激发她持续创新。 “近年来，营商环境的不稳定和金价上涨，为珠宝 行业带来重重挑战，需要创新且引人入胜的设计来吸 引消费者。”她说道。“这是我们首次推出渐变彩金新 品，希望为买家呈献特别的惊喜。” 开创崭新领域 苏格兰裔美国设计师Maeve Gillies是Maeve Gillies Design的创始人兼首席执行官，其铂金和钛 珠宝采用创新的直接金属3D打印技术，向其凯尔特 (Celtic)文化传统致敬。 Tùsaire系列与国际铂金协会(PGI®)合作开发而 成，包括30件独一无二的单品，从带有可替换部件的 项圈到手镯、戒指和耳环不等，其中七件镶嵌了伦弗 鲁郡石英（Renfrewshire quartz)等稀有的苏格兰宝 石。 Gillies擅于以铂金制作首饰，其婚庆系列就是以 铂金为主要材质。她说：“我渴望突破铂金的极限，為 它打造耳目一新的形象，并透过探索相关技术，以了 解其在表现创意上的巨大潜力。” Tùsaire在苏格兰盖尔语中意为“先驱”，Gillies也 特意为其铂金饰品赋予大胆鲜明、灵活百变和可定制 的元素。 该系列让Gillies和PGI意识到3D打印铂金的优势 和挑战。首先，打印大型部件成本依然高昂，而其空心 结构必须兼具坚固和轻盈的特质，以维持形状和易于 佩戴。表面分辨率和打印的摆放方向，也是其他关键 考虑因素。 Gillies透露：“对我来说，这些挑战也意味着可以 将表面分辨率的元素融入设计中，打造前所未有的大 型铂金结构。” Tùsaire系列的镂空作品轻盈无比，设计夺目，将未 抛光的3D打印铂金与高度抛光的表面形成强烈对比。 该系列面世后，Gillies将继续探索和善用尖端珠 宝技术。她说：“3D打印是一项优秀的创新工具，值得 继续深入研究，并与匠人思维和艺术视野相结合。”此 外，她正在构思推出电铸铂金首饰系列。
DESIGN 设计 20 | JNA July/August 2025 Diamond wedding rings from De Beers’ Infinity Collection 戴比尔斯Infinity系列钻石婚戒 Necklace and bracelet from Sevun Design Ltd’s Abacus Collection 出自Sevun Design Ltd 算盘系列的项链和手链 ‘Golden Petal’ bangle in 18-karat yellow gold from Anty’s Pharoah’s Grace Collection 出自Anty Pharoah’s Grace系列的18K 黄金Golden Petal手镯 SPARKLE OF life 璀璨珠宝点亮人生 The value of jewellery extends far beyond physical charm as evidenced by sustained demand for creative designs that speak to people’s emotions amid uncertain times. Jewellers are responding to this call with bold, sculptural elements and vibrant colours that inspire and empower the wearer. 珠宝的价值远远超出了单纯的材质与工艺，而在于 其承载的意义。在充满不确定性的时代，人们奋力追 求能够与情感产生共鸣的创意设计。珠宝商们采用 大胆的雕塑造型和鲜艳的色彩来响应这一需求，为 珠宝佩戴者带来灵感并赋予他们力量。
DESIGN设计 JNA July/August 2025 | 21 ‘Firenze Galaxy’ rings in black lava gold with pavé diamonds and 18-karat pink champagne gold with pavé diamonds by Annamaria Cammilli Firenze Galaxy黑熔岩金密镶钻石戒指和18K玫瑰香槟金密镶钻石戒指， Annamaria Cammilli出品 ‘Soar’ emerald bracelet and ‘Solo’ emerald drop earrings from the PureJewels x Gemfields Zariya Collection 出自PureJewels x Gemfields Zariya系列的 Soar祖母绿手链和Solo祖母绿垂坠耳环 ‘Tanzanite Falls’ necklace from Bulgari's Polychroma High Jewellery Collection 宝格丽Polychroma高级珠宝系列 的Tanzanite Falls项链 ‘The Penetration’ bangle by Chong Ho Art Jewelry Chong Ho Art Jewelry的“穿越”手镯 These collections focus on utilising lines that flow smoothly into the design, creating intricate shapes and structures. 这些系列利用流畅的线条设计，创造出 复杂精致的形状和结构。 Splendid sculptures 前卫雕塑 ‘Echo Chamber’ ear cuffs in 18-karat yellow gold with pavé diamonds and hidden mother-ofpearl inlay by Renisis Echo Chamber 18K 黄金耳环，饰以密镶 钻石和隐藏式珍珠母 贝，Renisis出品
DESIGN 设计 22 | JNA July/August 2025 Jewellers continue to celebrate the brilliance of coloured gemstones and fancy colour diamonds in their latest collections, catering to a growing appetite for vivid designs. 珠宝商在其最新系列中继续彰显彩宝和彩 钻的璀璨光芒，满足人们对缤纷色彩节节攀 高的需求。 Gemstone exuberance 宝石盛宴 ‘Hearts of Gold’ bracelet with heart-shaped fancy yellow diamonds and white diamonds by Leviev 镶嵌心形彩黄钻和白钻的Hearts of Gold手链，Leviev出品 ‘Shibirma’ earrings and ring adorned with red garnets, pearls and diamonds by Yuliya Kutovaya Jewelry Yuliya Kutovaya Jewelry的Shibirma 耳环和戒指，镶嵌红色石榴石、珍珠和钻石 ‘Lirya’ earrings with diamond, aquamarine and yellow beryl by Boghossian Boghossian的Lirya耳环，镶钻石 、 海蓝宝石和黄色绿柱石 ‘Echina’ necklace with emeralds, sapphires and diamonds from Cartier’s Nature Sauvage High Jewellery Collection 卡地亚Nature Sauvage高级珠宝系列的 Echina项链，镶嵌祖母绿、蓝宝石和钻石
DESIGN设计 JNA July/August 2025 | 23 Step into a whimsical garden and discover a bejewelled bee or a golden fish swimming in a pond. These pieces celebrate nature's organic beauty and timeless elegance. 一起走进奇妙的花园，您或会发现珠光宝 气的蜜蜂或在池塘中畅泳的金鱼。这些作 品歌颂了大自然之美和永恒优雅。 Enchanted garden 魔法花园 ‘Moonlit Bee’ pin/pendant with rubies and diamonds and a moonstone centre gem by Vivienne Charles Moonlit Bee胸针/吊坠 ， 以月光石为主石，配红宝石和 钻石，Vivienne Charles出品 ‘Crimson Velvet Anthurium’ brooch by Joywith Jewelry Ltd 绯红天鹅绒红 掌胸针 ，Joywith珠宝有限公司出品 Blue sapphire and diamond flower ring and small ‘Zahara’ sapphire and diamond earrings from Karina Brez Jewelry’s Garden Collection 出自Karina Brez Jewelry花园系列的蓝宝石配钻 石花朵戒指，及Zahara 蓝宝石配钻石小耳环 Golden filigree ‘Melody’ pendant in 18-karat yellow gold with diamonds by Sonja T Jewellery Sonja T Jewellery的金丝花韵18K黄金镶钻花丝吊坠 ‘The Opulent Gold Fish’ necklace from Chow Tai Fook’s HUÁ Collection 周大福传承系列的 “鱼裕丰饶”足金项链
DESIGN 设计 24 | JNA July/August 2025 | Bernardette Sto. Domingo 杜明高 | Rebellious and extraordinary, British jeweller Hannah Martin’s exceptional creations are an ode to unconventionality. 英国珠宝设计师Hannah Martin打破 传统规范，创出叛逆时尚风格。 The age of HIGH-END PUNK 奢华朋克新时代 C all it a classic case of serendipity. British art enthusiast Hannah Martin originally wanted to major in sculpture at Central Saint Martins in London but ended up taking jewellery design after her very own “aha moment.” “I stumbled upon jewellery by accident,” shared Martin. “I did not think it was something you could do as a career. I spent a week in a jewellery workshop as part of my foundation course and fell in love immediately. I never looked back.” In 2006, she founded her namesake fine jewellery brand – giving her innate creativity a permanent home. Bold new world Martin’s designs are wonderful digressions from the traditional, sometimes mundane, diamond jewellery in gold. She adores gold though – depicting the yellow metal as magical and indescribable. And in her jewellery designs, gold’s captivating appeal takes a more authentic, almost visceral, persona. Martin’s affinity for sculptural forms is most evident in her jewellery, juxtaposing soft and solid visual aspects that allude to a certain sensuality with an element of punk. What comes to mind is her New Rebel Bolt Bangle in 18-karat yellow and rose gold, with a carved malachite resting in the middle of the piece. The green gem also functions as an elegant screw closure. The bangle sums up what the designer describes as her signature style – bold, disruptive and unabashed artistry. “What makes my work stand out in the market is that I never think about the market,” shared Martin. “I tend to go against ‘trends’ and strive to create something that feels fresh and modern. I follow whatever it is that I find exciting at the time.” Drawing from diverse creative influences ranging from photography to sculpture, architecture, film and music, her jewellery pieces radiate a collective energy that is both striking and empowering. Subculture and subverting the status quo are also strong themes in Martin’s collections. She remarked, “I like to challenge what we see as luxury and what we understand as jewellery in a traditional sense. For example, why should jewellery be made specifically for men or women? I want my work to be for whoever it is that connects to it.” Modern jeweller Martin’s exceptional, norm-defying designs continue to turn heads in the broader luxury jewellery space. Over the years, she has created fine and high-jewellery collections for Louis Vuitton and Chaumet, and a fine jewellery collection for celebrated jewellery designer Francesca Amfitheatrof. Most recently, she collaborated with Coldplay bassist Guy Berryman, who also owns a fashion label, to create A Vanitas, an assortment of 18-karat gold jewellery with a distinctive razor blade motif. The collection draws inspiration from a popular Dutch art genre of the Baroque era that touches on the brevity of life and its fleeting beauty. The pieces, which include a razor 1) Diamond Ring of Fire ring in 18-karat white gold with round brilliantcut diamonds | Diamond Ring of Fire 18K戒指，镶圆形明亮式切割钻石; 2) Delirium Trance Amulet in 18-karat gold with enamel and a 2.74-carat emerald | Delirium Trance Amulet 18K金珐琅吊坠，镶嵌一颗2.74克拉祖母绿; 3) All Access Earring in 18-karat yellow and white gold from The Perfect Drug Collection | All Access 18K黄金及白金耳环，出自The Perfect Drug系列 1 2 3
DESIGN设计 JNA July/August 2025 | 25 Hannah Martin 生于英国的Hannah Martin热爱艺术，原本希望在 伦敦中央圣马丁学院主修雕塑，但在无心插柳下 选择了珠宝设计。 她说：“我在偶然间接触到珠宝设计，从来没想过能够成 为一份职业。我在基础课程期间参加了为期一周的珠宝工 作坊，并深深爱上，至今无悔选择了这条路。” 同名珠宝品牌在2006年正式创立，将其才华和创造力发 挥得淋漓尽致。 闯出新天地 Martin的作品与传统端庄的钻石金饰截然不同。她认为 黄金有一种难以言喻的魅力，并透过其设计更显动人特质。 她对雕塑形式情有独钟，经常把温柔与坚实的视觉元素 并置，营造出一种性感的朋克风格。New Rebel Bolt手镯是 一枚真正的螺丝扣件，采用18K黄金和玫瑰金打造，镶嵌一 颗精心雕刻的孔雀石。 这款手镯完美诠释了其大胆前卫且毫无保留的艺术风格。 “我的作品之所以在市场上脱颖而出，是因为我从来不 考虑市场潮流。”Martin分享道。“我总是反其道而行，兴之所 至，创造出富新鲜感的现代之作。” 她的珠宝首饰取材自摄影、雕塑、建筑、电影和音乐，设 计既瞩目又散发出一股自信的力量。 亚文化元素和颠覆精神也体现在其作品中。她说：“我乐 于挑战人们对奢侈品和珠宝的理解和传统观念。为什么珠 宝一定要为男性或女性而设？我希望任何人都能对我的作 品产生共鸣。” 现代珠宝品牌 一系列打破常规的设计，也在更广泛的奢侈品领域备受 注目。多年来，她曾经为路易威登和尚美巴黎打造顶级珠宝， 并为著名设计师Francesca Amfitheatrof创造高级珠宝系列。 最近，她与Coldplay酷玩乐队的贝斯手兼时尚品牌创始 人Guy Berryman,合作推出A Vanitas系列18K金首饰，其剃 须刀片造型独一无二。 该系列的灵感源自巴洛克时期的荷兰艺术流派，探索 生活日常和稍纵即逝之美。Martin指出，Razor Wristband手镯和Razor Ring戒指等作 品捕捉耐人寻味的当下时刻，话匣子 应声而开。 这种无视世俗的创作理念从一 而终。Martin表示，她在20年的职 业生涯中，从未推行过任何品牌建 设策略。 “我一直将自己和品牌视 为置身局外而具有自觉的反叛 者。”Martin解释道。“我从未放弃创 立品牌时的DIY朋克精神。品牌的每 一件作品都是真心原创。这是我们唯 一的策略。” 该公司计划在9月推出新系列，以庆祝 成立20周年。Martin还将出版书籍，探讨其创作历 程和作品，一些合作项目也在筹备中。 越来越多的独立设计师挑战常规，摒弃传统设计，因此 对她本人和整个珠宝行业而言，这无疑是一个精彩的时代。 “年轻人和另类文化的开创者，都能够在珠宝世界中找 到更多引起共鸣的作品。”Martin说。“这个行业仍然相当传 统，但越来越多的人正在突破藩篱，客户也不例外。人们变 得更加勇敢尝试，绝对令人振奋。” wristband and razor ring, to name a few, are conversation starters about the beauty of seizing the moment, explained the designer. This defiant creative philosophy has been present in all her creations from the get-go. Twenty years into her career, Martin said the company has never really adopted any brand-building strategy. “I have always seen myself and my brand as a bit of an outsider, a rebel with a cause,” explained Martin. “I have never quite let go of the DIY punk mentality I started out with. Everything that comes out of the brand is totally authentic. That is our only strategy.” The company is currently working on a new collection, scheduled for launch in September, in celebration of its 20th anniversary. Martin is also launching a book about her journey and her creations while some collaborative projects are in the works. These are fascinating times, not just for her, but for the jewellery industry in general as individual designers are increasingly going against the grain and steering clear of the traditional route. “There is now more opportunity for younger people, or more alternative people, to find something in the world of jewellery that resonates with them,” said Martin. “The industry is still quite traditional, but more and more people are trying to break the mould – including the clients. People are braver, and that is exciting.” New Rebel Bolt Bangle in 18-karat yellow and rose gold with a carved malachite in the centre New Rebel Bolt 18K黄金、玫瑰金手镯，镶嵌雕刻孔 雀石
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