MARKET INTELLIGENCE 市场情报 42 | JNA January/February 2025 在经济不确定性和地缘政治紧张局势下，市场对彩 色宝石的需求预计将在2025年稳步上扬，这主要 是由于具相当知识水平和成熟度的买家，都倾向 选择富有特色和故事性的珠宝首饰。 据业内人士称，红宝石、蓝宝石和祖母绿等经典宝石正 进一步受到追捧，而非传统宝石则继续赢得全球市场的青 睐，尤其是帕拉依巴碧玺的迷人蓝色、帕帕拉恰蓝宝石的舒 适色调，还有尖晶石和阿力山大石的深邃颜色，都吸引源源 不绝的买家。 在国际珠宝拍卖会上，买家对彩色宝石的渴求与日俱 增，而知名珠宝公司也定期推出以稀有彩色宝石为主题的 高级珠宝系列，大大提升了彩色宝石在主流市场中的地位。 在2024年12月10日于纽约举行的苏富比瑰丽珠宝拍卖会 上，一枚10.33克拉未经处理的枕形切割缅甸红宝石镶钻戒指 成为主角，以550万美元的高价成交，是最高估价的两倍多。 而在富艺斯2024年中国香港拍卖会的亮点就包括一枚 7.02克拉缅甸红宝石镶钻戒指，以127万美元成交；一条约 54.18克拉的红宝石项链，竞投者以106万美元夺得心头好； 而一枚10.84克拉巴西亚历山大变石戒指，则以980,694美 元售出。 与此同时，绚丽多彩也是宝格丽Aeterna系列的主要特 色。该系列于2024年中推出，是宝格丽迄今为止“最非凡”的 珠宝系列。 该系列中包括缀有蓝宝石、祖母绿、红宝石、金红石、 帕拉依巴碧玺和绿松石等的精美作品。Sapphire Aeterna Waves铂金项链是其中的代表作，项链上镶有38.93克拉枕 形切割斯里兰卡蓝宝石吊坠，并以蓝宝石和钻石为点缀。吊 坠是可拆卸的，展现了宝格丽对灵活百变的多功能珠宝的 热爱及其卓尔不凡工艺。 在卡地亚Nature Sauvage高级珠宝系列中，高品质的彩 色宝石同样成为焦点。例如，Chryseis项链就镶嵌了黑玛瑙、 绿石髓珠子和重达63.76克拉的金红石吊坠。 市场需求畅旺 国际有色宝石协会(ICA)主席Damien Cody表示，精品和 弥足珍贵的彩色宝石仍然具有吸引力，价位也将持续高企。 Cody补充说，宝石的价格有望在2025年稳定下来，继在 疫情期间出现前所未有的飙升之后，回落至合理的水平。 高端珠宝商古宝琳总裁Raphael Gübelin说，古宝琳在 2024年推出了多款以艳丽尖晶石为主的作品。其中一款鸡尾 酒戒指镶嵌的12克拉可变色尖晶石极为罕见，令鉴赏家们爱 不释手。这颗宝石在阳光下散发出蓝色光芒，在人工光源下 则变成紫罗兰色。Raphael指它的可变色特点使其脱颖而出。 “Regarding treatment, the harmonisation efforts among major coloured gemstone laboratories seem to be bearing fruit: We have fewer debates about low-temperature treatments applied to African rubies,” shared Nyfeler. Auction Preference for high-end gems was also evident at auctions of rough materials. Coloured gemstone miner Gemfields observed sustained appetite for top-grade rubies and emeralds at its 2024 auctions. The company’s mixed-quality Mozambique ruby auction held from November 25 to December 11, 2024, generated total revenues of US$46.2 million. Sold were 97 lots out of 102 that were on offer. Average price per carat, meanwhile, reached US$321.94, a record high for the miner. Gemfields’ Managing Director of Product & Sales Adrian Banks said the auction results represented a positive outcome amid ongoing economic challenges in China and geopolitical conflicts, reaffirming sturdy demand for Gemfields' rubies. Prices of fine-quality rubies were also firmly aligned with limited supply, he noted. “Encouragingly, new entrants with well-developed supply chains placed successful bids in this auction, highlighting a positive outlook across the quality spectrum,” added Banks. Buyer appetite for top-range gems also fuelled bidding at Gemfields’ auction of higher-quality rough emeralds from its Kagem mine. In fact, there were “fewer and poorer bids” for lesser-quality grades at the sale, held from November 4 to 21, 2024. “While the wider luxury and gemstone markets are undeniably facing challenging times, customer attendance and engagement at the auction were good as evidenced by the strength of bidding for the top-quality lots on offer,” noted Banks. Total auction revenues reached US$16.1 million, with 30 of 43 lots offered having been sold. Glittering future Coloured gemstones’ rise to prominence has been gradually taking place over the years, with buyers’ quest for rarity and personalisation ever more influencing their purchasing decisions. According to Raphael of House of Gübelin, several factors are contributing to this development. “People are seeking more sophisticated choices. In this scenario, knowledge and education about gemstones also play an important role,” he remarked. “We see a growing interest in our coloured gemstone classes at our Academy. The more you know about the story, history and formation of the gem, the more you appreciate it.” Cody of ICA said fiscal constraints are expected to ease throughout 2025, providing increased business certainty and stability. This, in turn, could bode well for the coloured gemstone sector. The emergence of new marketing channels such as livestreaming could likewise lead to fresh growth opportunities ahead, he noted. Rough ruby from Gemfields的红宝石原石
RkJQdWJsaXNoZXIy NjAxOTU=