FOCUS 焦点 JNA January/February 2025 | 11 Terminology Beyond market forces, there are compelling endeavours to safeguard the bedrock of the industry’s success: Consumer confidence. At the CIBJO Congress 2024 in Shanghai, China last November, speakers and panellists brought into sharp focus the urgency of sustainable development, the impact of regulatory frameworks and geopolitics, and the importance of standard nomenclature and full disclosure, among others – all issues with a profound effect on the gem and jewellery trade moving forward. CIBJO’s Supply Chain Nomenclature Committee is working to develop a standardised list of terms that describe products, sources and processes in the jewellery supply chain, along with their definitions. It is examining nomenclature used in business claims around responsible and ethical business practices, such as terms describing origin, source and provenance. Furthermore, with new consumer protection legislation expected to emerge in the coming years, having the right nomenclature to make business claims along the jewellery supply chain is critical. Committee Coordinator and De Beers Group Head of Ethical and Sustainable Value Chains Purvi Shah said, “Consumers are more and more able to access and process information. If the claims we make do not seem credible, we are going to lose that confidence very quickly. We are also in a cancel culture, and that reputational impact will take a very long time, if at all, to earn back that trust.” The following terms are being reviewed and drafted, with consultation expected in the first quarter of 2025. Business claims terms are responsible business practices; ethical business practices; and sustainable business practices. Sourcing terms are responsibly sourced; ethically sourced; and sustainably sourced. Tracing terms are chain of accountability; chain of custody; traceability; and transparency. Origin, source and provenance terms include newly mined; artisanally mined; recovered through largescale mining; recycled gemstones; grandfathered/legacy material; antique jewellery; and vintage jewellery. The committee also discourages the use of these terms: Eco-friendly, environmentally friendly; biodegradable; green/’greener’ material; and energy-efficient/energy- smart jewellery. 过去一年深受地缘政治压力、经济不稳定和消费者 信心低迷等因素打击，引起连番波澜，行业人士 对2025年态度审慎，同时仍期望经济稍有好转。 纵使挑战依然存在，但业界正窥见新兴市场的潜力、经 济回稳和具启发性的营商策略。 在政府和消费者的监察下，宝石和首饰行业同样积极应 对可持续性、术语命名和责任營销等议题。 钻石供应展望 2024年钻石行业虽然困难重重，但现在已渐露曙光。 世界钻石交易所联合会(WFDB)主席Yoram Dvash表示， 市场状况正在改善，预计钻石市场将于2025年第二季呈现 復甦迹象。 2024年因产能过剩导致价格和库存问题，至今供应已经 回稳，某些商品甚至出现短缺。印度制造商去年将产量减少 了40%至50%，有助调整供应。 “毛坯钻石供应是影响2025年钻石业走向的主要因素 之一。如果矿业公司和生产国继续控制供应，不将大量毛坯 钻石投入市场的话，将会产生积极作用。”Dvash分享道。 市场前景 不过，关键仍在于中国市场的需求，而受访者都承认该市 场復甦所需的时间比预期长。戴比尔斯集团钻石贸易执行副 总裁Paul Rowley认为，这是目前影响行业的最大因素，自疫 情爆发以来，中国的结婚率一直偏低，对婚庆行业影响甚钜。 最近，多项举措旨在重燃中国市场对天然钻石的渴求， 预计将于今年取得成果。WFDB和上海钻石交易所(SDE)携 手制作了一系列视频，以激发消费者对钻石的兴趣。Dvash 表示，SDE也正在开始推出天然钻石的营销企划。戴比尔斯 和天然钻石协会(NDC)将共同努力，吸引年轻消费者。 中国钻石需求放缓，导致行业持份者将目光转向其他 市场。 印度的中产阶级对钻石兴趣甚殷，促使该国成为实力超 群的竞争者。Rowley表示，自新冠疫情爆发以来，印度的天 然钻石需求在过去两三年上升了30%至40%。 “该国的增长潜力雄厚，原因在于其经济发展蓬勃，亦 有可能是中国经济放缓所致。投资者已经纷纷进场，而不断 壮大的印度中产阶级也对钻石另眼相看。除了传统珠宝之 外，设计新颖的钻石首饰大有市场。” Dvash也观察到，一向偏重黄金首饰的印度市场近年来 逐渐爱上钻石。他补充说，由于已抛光钻石进口印度须徵 税，因此该市场几乎完全由当地制造商满足供应。 对戴比尔斯来说，美国市场也逐步復甦。Rowley预计今 年零售商将会积极补充天然钻石库存。其日本和东南亚市 场也呈现增长，但他承认后者规模较小，无法弥补中国市场 的损失，甚至印度也未能完全抵消這一損失。 “我们正在寻找替代市场来维持势头，直到中国需求恢 復。我们期待中国市场捲土重来的一天。”Rowley称。 平稳復甦 对Dvash来说，钻石行业面临的最大挑战，是年轻一代对 天然钻石缺乏热忱。 “新一代没有接触过天然钻石象征永恆爱情的宣传企 划，不像以往的消费者般对此刻骨铭心。我们希望行业能够 为通用企划给予相关支持，逐步纠正这一问题。”他说。 他指出，密集式营销必须至少进行五年，才能令消费者 意向产生重大转变。行业协会最近商讨就NDC的品类营销 拨款资助，或许是朝正确方向迈出的一步。
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