FOCUS 焦点 10 | JNA January/February 2025 Kakuda, demand from China was extremely strong in the years after the pandemic, but new markets are exhibiting strong potential. “In recent years, buyers from other areas such as the US, Europe and India have shown greater interest in Japanese Akoya pearls. These are serious buyers that are willing to pay a premium for these goods,” he said. “They appreciate our consistency of supply and quality, which are our main competitive advantages in the market.” Golden South Sea pearl specialist Jewelmer is just as optimistic about growth opportunities this year. CEO Jacques Christophe Branellec is seeing solid progression in the company’s customer base in the US again as well as an increasing appreciation for the golden South Sea pearl globally. Asia and China are performing well for the company, and emerging markets such as India and Africa are rich in possibilities. He anticipates continued interest in pearls this year, particularly due to the sustainability aspect of South Sea pearls that resonates with younger generations. “These consumers are really coming out in force now, especially in Asian countries where we have a very young demographic,” Branellec shared. “A lot of the young workforce are getting their first paychecks or promotions. The pearl is truly a gem that can cater to this younger generation and their search for gems that really have an intrinsic ethical and sustainable story.” Peter Bracher, executive director of Paspaley Pearling Co, is likewise confident of a return to strength in the market this year. He noted that general uncertainties that plagued the gem and jewellery industry in 2024 such as political conflicts and economic turmoil have been largely settled, setting the stage for growth amid a shortage of goods. For Paspaley, growth includes international expansion of its pearl jewellery retail brand. Last year, it returned to the global retail scene by entering the US market through Lux Bond & Green stores, among other retailers. “We previously had a presence in Hong Kong but had challenges hanging on to our leases. We had to close our Hong Kong operations and focused on Australia for the last 10 years,” Bracher explained. “We have been in Australia retail for 30 years now and spent the last 10 just strengthening that business. We are now ready for international expansion.” The company intends to concentrate on the US market first, growing organically and positioning itself as the top Australian South Sea pearl brand. Gem balance Coloured gemstones are also in for a relatively better year, with demand outstripping supply for certain variants and qualities. High-end coloured stones are particularly sought after and difficult to source, said Charles Abouchar, president of the Coloured Stone Commission of the World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO). “Meanwhile, due to the economic situation, medium and low-end stones are under pressure because the market is weak,” he continued. Vitalit Co Ltd Owner Sasha Golokoz concurred, noting that the market for midrange stones has become stagnant. Expensive good-quality stones will always be in demand, while buyers that used to purchase medium-range stones are downgrading to lower-end material, she explained. Here too, the slowdown in Chinese buying activity has dented business, prompting suppliers to explore other growth avenues. Vitalit is resorting to consignment of coloured gemstones with dealers in Germany and India to seek new revenue streams, according to Golokoz. Corundum specialist Ploy Center Co Ltd caters primarily to the US and Europe. Its clients’ orders however depend largely on demand from their Chinese customers thereby impacting sales, revealed Managing Director Suwatchai Chuabanlue. He is now seeking a greater foothold in the Middle East market, where bigger, lower-quality stones are generally preferred. Another significant challenge in the coloured gemstone industry is the number of new treatments in the market, said Abouchar. “A lot of treatments today are, for the moment, undetectable. As long as you cannot detect it, you cannot say that the coloured gemstone is treated. It makes for a certain uncertainty,” he remarked. CIBJO Congress 2024 2024年国际珠宝首饰联合会(CIBJO)大会
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