CONTENTS Issue #449 | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2025 13 China’s remarkably agile jewellery sector 中国珠宝商机灵变通，逆风前行 18 DESIGN 设计 18 The comforting blend of Mocha Mousse 舒适优雅的摩卡慕斯 16 PERSPECTIVE 精辟视野 16 AGJA outlines roadmap for ASEAN success AGJA精心规划东盟路线图 8FOCUS 焦点 8 2025: The road ahead 探索珠宝业新路向 20 Sign of the times 时代的标志
On the Cover 封面 The Flowing Droplets earrings and necklace from The Palace Voyages Collection of Boghossian draw influence from the rich heritage of Taman Sari, a historic water castle in Indonesia. The set features mesmerising Paraiba tourmaline stones in both cabochon and pear shapes, interspersed with marquise diamonds – capturing the unique shade of Taman Sari’s sacred pools. Boghossian Palace Voyages系列的Flowing Droplets耳环和项链。这套首饰的设 计灵感来自印度尼西亚历史悠久的水上城堡塔曼沙丽(Taman Sari)，设计师采用了 迷人的凸圆形和梨形帕拉依巴碧玺，与马眼形钻石互相辉映，捕捉到了塔曼沙丽神 池的独特色调。 Digital version 电子版： https://news.jewellerynet.com/en/publications 40 MARKET INTELLIGENCE 市场情报 40 A more radiant future for coloured gems in 2025 彩色宝石迎接璀璨夺目的2025年 44 Japan-made bridal jewellery fuses tradition with romance 日本制造婚嫁首饰将传统 与浪漫完美結合 47 Greater international presence and business activity at JGTD 2024 JGTD 2024更趋国际化 贸易气氛畅旺 24 INNOVATION 创新科技 24 GIA: Exploring the next frontier of growth GIA致力探索增长领域 26 Innovation in the new year 蛇年迎新意 36 MARKET WATCH 市场观察 36 Upmarket shift in Australia 澳大利亚转战高端零售领域 31 SPOTLIGHT 市场聚焦 31 Sustainability Awards 2025 by JWA opens for entries 2025年JWA可持续发展大奖 开始接受提名 50 DIGEST 市场指标 50 Exceptional diamond shines at auction 非凡钻石在拍卖会上大放异彩
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ADVERTORIAL软文 JNA January/February 2025 | 7 Sustainable development is the overarching compass for business growth in today’s global economy. In keeping with this trend, Platinum Guild International (PGI®) is committed to fostering a collective approach to drive sustainable growth in the platinum jewellery industry. In November 2024, PGI organised a China Platinum Jewellery Forum with the theme “Charting The Future With Responsible Platinum,” on the sidelines of the World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO) Congress 2024 in Shanghai, China. The event brought together domestic and international jewellery industry experts and leaders as well as representatives of leading organisations and renowned brands to discuss the sustainable development of the industry. Delegates noted that China is currently undergoing a consumption upgrade underpinned by a resilient and robust consumer market, which sets a solid foundation for growth. Government policies are also aligned with sustainable development strategies. Affirming the need for a responsible supply chain, participants advocated for clear standards for responsible production and operations in the platinum jewellery sector while leveraging technological innovation to integrate more sustainable practices based on Environmental, Social and Governance (ESG) principles. They likewise underscored the importance of enhancing traceability in areas such as products, production and raw materials, and highlighted the attributes of responsible platinum. They also called for stronger industry-wide collaboration to build a sustainable supply chain. Collective advocacy for responsible platinum At the forum, PGI and five industry stakeholders signed the “Declaration for Responsible and Sustainability Principles of China’s Platinum Jewellery Industry,” which maps out the pathways for healthy and high-quality growth within the sector. This was witnessed by the National Gems & Jewellery Testing Co Ltd (NGTC) and the National Standardization Technical Committee 256 on Jewellery of SAC (SAC/TC 256). The Declaration reaffirms the core values and principles of implementing sustainable strategies, highlights industry guidelines and standards, and steers collective efforts across the industry to embrace accountability towards society, the environment and consumers. PGI China Managing Director Pui P. Poon said, “The platinum jewellery industry stands at a critical juncture, facing both opportunities and challenges. With sustainable development emerging as a market imperative, PGI is intent on implementing best practices to uphold ESG principles. We strive to cultivate a healthy industry ecosystem and foster industry partnerships towards a sustainable future.” 顺应全球经济以可持续发展为导向的大趋势，国际 铂金协会(PGI®)积极联动全行业，鼓励业界以“负 责任”的态度推动铂金首饰行业的永续发展。 2024年11月，在中国上海举行的国际珠宝首饰联合会 (CIBJO)大会期间，协会成功举办了“铂金向前・负责任”中国 论坛。论坛云集国内外珠宝行业专家、领军人物及权威机构 和知名品牌代表，从全球视野和中国实际情况等不同维度， 探索中国铂金首饰行业的可持续发展路径。 专家们指出，目前中国正处于消费升级的重要阶段，消 费市场展现强大韧性与潜力，为行业发展构建了稳固的基 础。政府出台系列政策也鼓励全面落实可持续发展战略。可 持续发展已然成为行业实现高质量发展的必由之路。 专家们认为以负责任思维规范珠宝行业的供应链尤为 重要。针对铂金首饰行业，可考虑通过共同倡导“负责任”铂 金，明确生产及运营标准，促进负责任的生产和制造。同时， 业界可利用创新技术优化产业链，并将绿色生产贯穿各环 节，落实环境、社会和治理(ESG)理念；还应著力实现产品、 生产、原料等不同环节的可追溯性，注重发挥“绿色”铂金、 “负责任”铂金等特性。通过全行业协作，共筑可持续发展 的生态产业链。 全行业共同倡导负责任铂金 在国家珠宝玉石首饰检验集团有限公司和全国首饰标 准化技术委员会见证下，由协会发起，六家行业代表机构及 品牌共同签署了《中国铂金首饰行业可持续发展宣言》，为 中国铂金首饰行业的长远发展指明方向。 《宣言》旨在明确中国铂金首饰行业实行可持续发展战 略的核心价值和理念、增强行业的凝聚力、强调从业指导规 范和标准，并引导全行业共同行动，积极承担对社会、环境 和消费者的责任。 国际铂金协会(PGI®)中国区董事总经理潘佩佩女士表 示：“铂金首饰行业发展机遇与挑战并存。在可持续发展成 为市场趋势下，协会积极深化ESG理念的实践，力争构建健 康、良性的行业生态，推动行业携手共进，迈向美好未来。” Signing ceremony of the “Declaration for Responsible and Sustainability Principles of China’s Platinum Jewellery Industry” 《中国铂金首饰行业可持续发展宣言》签署现场 Platinum Guild International (PGI®) at the forefront of sustainable platinum jewellery development 国际铂金协会(PGI®)引領铂金首饰行业可持续发展
FOCUS 焦点 8 | JNA January/February 2025 In the wake of a turbulent year marred by geopolitical pressures, economic instability and low consumer sentiment, industry players are keeping a wary eye on 2025 while remaining hopeful for slight upturns. Challenges remain, but the trade is spotting green shoots in the form of promising emerging markets, greater economic stability and inspired strategies. Heightened government and consumer scrutiny is likewise leading the gem and jewellery industry to address issues of sustainability, nomenclature and responsible marketing, among others. Diamond supply The diamond trade, which faced extremely trying conditions in 2024, is seeing some light at the end of the tunnel. Market conditions are improving, according to World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB) President Yoram Dvash, who expects the diamond market to show signs of recovery in the second quarter of 2025. Unlike the surpluses that led to price and inventory concerns in 2024, supply has stabilised somewhat and there are even shortages in certain goods. Indian manufacturers reduced their production by 40 to 50 per cent last year, helping to facilitate supply corrections. “Among the main factors that will affect the diamond trade in 2025 is the supply of rough. If mining companies and the producing countries continue to control the supply and do not throw large amounts of rough diamonds into the market, this will have a positive impact,” Dvash shared. Market prospects Much however hinges on Chinese demand, which De Beers Group Executive Vice President, Diamond Trading Paul Rowley cites as the biggest factor currently affecting the diamond industry. All parties admit recovery there will take longer than anticipated. For one, marriage rates in China have remained low since the pandemic, impacting tremendously on the bridal business, said Rowley. Recent initiatives to rekindle desire for natural diamonds in China are projected to bear fruit this year. The WFDB and the Shanghai Diamond Exchange (SDE) have collaborated on a series of videos to drum up consumer interest in | Olivia Quiniquini 程爱莉 | While challenges remain in 2025, the gem and jewellery industry is cautiously optimistic of a gradual return to normalcy following the heady highs and extreme lows during and since the pandemic. As the trade pivots to new markets and fresh initiatives to sustain growth, it is laying the groundwork too to safeguard consumer confidence, which underpins its success and future. 2025年尽管仍然存在挑战，但经历了疫情 期间的高山低谷，珠宝业界对于逐渐復常持谨慎乐观态度。行业积极开拓新市场和 新措施以维持增长，同时也致力维护消费者信心，为未来的成功奠下基础。 The road ahead 2025: 探索珠宝业新路向
FOCUS 焦点 JNA January/February 2025 | 9 We hope that the industry will begin to correct this by unifying behind ongoing generic campaigns over time,” explained Dvash. To his mind, at least five years of intensive marketing campaigns are needed to bring about a major change in consumer attitudes. Trade associations’ recent discussions on contributing to the NDC’s funds for category marketing could be one step in that direction. Greater economic and geopolitical stability will bode well for the diamond trade too. Dvash said, “We are hopeful that with the new US administration, there will be an end to the war in Ukraine and in the Middle East. This will have a calming effect on the market, and we hope to see a continued decline in interest rates.” Rowley sees a gradual return to normalcy for the diamond trade, driven by a good restocking period into the future. He said, “Early signs look promising; these will bring back the momentum of the natural diamond industry. It will not be a quick jump to growth or a hockey-stick recovery. There will be a gradual improvement of consumer demand levels for diamonds, which will bring back the momentum and stability of the natural diamond business.” Lustrous demand Pearls, for their part, are winning over more markets and tapping different consumer segments. The Japan Pearl Exporters’ Association (JPEA) is looking to further diversify the market for Japanese Akoya pearls this year. According to JPEA President George diamonds. According to Dvash, SDE is also beginning a marketing campaign for natural diamonds. This will join existing promotional efforts by De Beers and the Natural Diamond Council (NDC) to appeal to younger consumers. The slump in Chinese demand for diamonds has led industry stakeholders to train their sights on alternative consumer markets. India has emerged as a strong contender, driven by a middle class that is showing a greater appetite for diamonds. Rowley said natural diamond demand in India has increased by 30 to 40 per cent in the last two to three years since Covid. “We see future growth potential there because the economy is booming, perhaps owing to the slowdown in China,” he explained. “Investment has moved in, and the country’s growing middle class is looking at diamonds differently. Aside from traditional jewellery, there are opportunities to sell diamonds for fresh, inventive designs in India.” Dvash also observed the rise in Indian consumption of diamonds in recent years, despite the market’s usual emphasis on gold jewellery. Since there is a tax on import of polished diamonds, the Indian market is almost exclusively being supplied by local manufacturers, he added. The US is likewise returning to form for De Beers. Rowley anticipates higher levels of natural diamond restocking among retailers this year. Also showing growth for De Beers are Japan and Southeast Asia, but Rowley admits the latter is a smaller market that cannot compensate for losses in China. And neither can India for that matter, he noted. “We are looking at alternative markets to sustain momentum until Chinese demand returns, which we hope will be soon,” Rowley continued. Gradual recovery For Dvash, the biggest challenge to the industry is the overall lack of excitement among younger generations for natural diamonds. “These consumers have not been exposed to generic campaigns extolling natural diamonds as symbolising eternal love, something that was clear to older generations. Early signs look promising; these will bring back the momentum of the natural diamond industry. It will not be a quick jump to growth or a hockey-stick recovery. There will be a gradual improvement of consumer demand levels for diamonds, which will bring back the momentum and stability of the natural diamond business. – Paul Rowley, Executive Vice President, Diamond Trading, De Beers Group
FOCUS 焦点 10 | JNA January/February 2025 Kakuda, demand from China was extremely strong in the years after the pandemic, but new markets are exhibiting strong potential. “In recent years, buyers from other areas such as the US, Europe and India have shown greater interest in Japanese Akoya pearls. These are serious buyers that are willing to pay a premium for these goods,” he said. “They appreciate our consistency of supply and quality, which are our main competitive advantages in the market.” Golden South Sea pearl specialist Jewelmer is just as optimistic about growth opportunities this year. CEO Jacques Christophe Branellec is seeing solid progression in the company’s customer base in the US again as well as an increasing appreciation for the golden South Sea pearl globally. Asia and China are performing well for the company, and emerging markets such as India and Africa are rich in possibilities. He anticipates continued interest in pearls this year, particularly due to the sustainability aspect of South Sea pearls that resonates with younger generations. “These consumers are really coming out in force now, especially in Asian countries where we have a very young demographic,” Branellec shared. “A lot of the young workforce are getting their first paychecks or promotions. The pearl is truly a gem that can cater to this younger generation and their search for gems that really have an intrinsic ethical and sustainable story.” Peter Bracher, executive director of Paspaley Pearling Co, is likewise confident of a return to strength in the market this year. He noted that general uncertainties that plagued the gem and jewellery industry in 2024 such as political conflicts and economic turmoil have been largely settled, setting the stage for growth amid a shortage of goods. For Paspaley, growth includes international expansion of its pearl jewellery retail brand. Last year, it returned to the global retail scene by entering the US market through Lux Bond & Green stores, among other retailers. “We previously had a presence in Hong Kong but had challenges hanging on to our leases. We had to close our Hong Kong operations and focused on Australia for the last 10 years,” Bracher explained. “We have been in Australia retail for 30 years now and spent the last 10 just strengthening that business. We are now ready for international expansion.” The company intends to concentrate on the US market first, growing organically and positioning itself as the top Australian South Sea pearl brand. Gem balance Coloured gemstones are also in for a relatively better year, with demand outstripping supply for certain variants and qualities. High-end coloured stones are particularly sought after and difficult to source, said Charles Abouchar, president of the Coloured Stone Commission of the World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO). “Meanwhile, due to the economic situation, medium and low-end stones are under pressure because the market is weak,” he continued. Vitalit Co Ltd Owner Sasha Golokoz concurred, noting that the market for midrange stones has become stagnant. Expensive good-quality stones will always be in demand, while buyers that used to purchase medium-range stones are downgrading to lower-end material, she explained. Here too, the slowdown in Chinese buying activity has dented business, prompting suppliers to explore other growth avenues. Vitalit is resorting to consignment of coloured gemstones with dealers in Germany and India to seek new revenue streams, according to Golokoz. Corundum specialist Ploy Center Co Ltd caters primarily to the US and Europe. Its clients’ orders however depend largely on demand from their Chinese customers thereby impacting sales, revealed Managing Director Suwatchai Chuabanlue. He is now seeking a greater foothold in the Middle East market, where bigger, lower-quality stones are generally preferred. Another significant challenge in the coloured gemstone industry is the number of new treatments in the market, said Abouchar. “A lot of treatments today are, for the moment, undetectable. As long as you cannot detect it, you cannot say that the coloured gemstone is treated. It makes for a certain uncertainty,” he remarked. CIBJO Congress 2024 2024年国际珠宝首饰联合会(CIBJO)大会
FOCUS 焦点 JNA January/February 2025 | 11 Terminology Beyond market forces, there are compelling endeavours to safeguard the bedrock of the industry’s success: Consumer confidence. At the CIBJO Congress 2024 in Shanghai, China last November, speakers and panellists brought into sharp focus the urgency of sustainable development, the impact of regulatory frameworks and geopolitics, and the importance of standard nomenclature and full disclosure, among others – all issues with a profound effect on the gem and jewellery trade moving forward. CIBJO’s Supply Chain Nomenclature Committee is working to develop a standardised list of terms that describe products, sources and processes in the jewellery supply chain, along with their definitions. It is examining nomenclature used in business claims around responsible and ethical business practices, such as terms describing origin, source and provenance. Furthermore, with new consumer protection legislation expected to emerge in the coming years, having the right nomenclature to make business claims along the jewellery supply chain is critical. Committee Coordinator and De Beers Group Head of Ethical and Sustainable Value Chains Purvi Shah said, “Consumers are more and more able to access and process information. If the claims we make do not seem credible, we are going to lose that confidence very quickly. We are also in a cancel culture, and that reputational impact will take a very long time, if at all, to earn back that trust.” The following terms are being reviewed and drafted, with consultation expected in the first quarter of 2025. Business claims terms are responsible business practices; ethical business practices; and sustainable business practices. Sourcing terms are responsibly sourced; ethically sourced; and sustainably sourced. Tracing terms are chain of accountability; chain of custody; traceability; and transparency. Origin, source and provenance terms include newly mined; artisanally mined; recovered through largescale mining; recycled gemstones; grandfathered/legacy material; antique jewellery; and vintage jewellery. The committee also discourages the use of these terms: Eco-friendly, environmentally friendly; biodegradable; green/’greener’ material; and energy-efficient/energy- smart jewellery. 过去一年深受地缘政治压力、经济不稳定和消费者 信心低迷等因素打击，引起连番波澜，行业人士 对2025年态度审慎，同时仍期望经济稍有好转。 纵使挑战依然存在，但业界正窥见新兴市场的潜力、经 济回稳和具启发性的营商策略。 在政府和消费者的监察下，宝石和首饰行业同样积极应 对可持续性、术语命名和责任營销等议题。 钻石供应展望 2024年钻石行业虽然困难重重，但现在已渐露曙光。 世界钻石交易所联合会(WFDB)主席Yoram Dvash表示， 市场状况正在改善，预计钻石市场将于2025年第二季呈现 復甦迹象。 2024年因产能过剩导致价格和库存问题，至今供应已经 回稳，某些商品甚至出现短缺。印度制造商去年将产量减少 了40%至50%，有助调整供应。 “毛坯钻石供应是影响2025年钻石业走向的主要因素 之一。如果矿业公司和生产国继续控制供应，不将大量毛坯 钻石投入市场的话，将会产生积极作用。”Dvash分享道。 市场前景 不过，关键仍在于中国市场的需求，而受访者都承认该市 场復甦所需的时间比预期长。戴比尔斯集团钻石贸易执行副 总裁Paul Rowley认为，这是目前影响行业的最大因素，自疫 情爆发以来，中国的结婚率一直偏低，对婚庆行业影响甚钜。 最近，多项举措旨在重燃中国市场对天然钻石的渴求， 预计将于今年取得成果。WFDB和上海钻石交易所(SDE)携 手制作了一系列视频，以激发消费者对钻石的兴趣。Dvash 表示，SDE也正在开始推出天然钻石的营销企划。戴比尔斯 和天然钻石协会(NDC)将共同努力，吸引年轻消费者。 中国钻石需求放缓，导致行业持份者将目光转向其他 市场。 印度的中产阶级对钻石兴趣甚殷，促使该国成为实力超 群的竞争者。Rowley表示，自新冠疫情爆发以来，印度的天 然钻石需求在过去两三年上升了30%至40%。 “该国的增长潜力雄厚，原因在于其经济发展蓬勃，亦 有可能是中国经济放缓所致。投资者已经纷纷进场，而不断 壮大的印度中产阶级也对钻石另眼相看。除了传统珠宝之 外，设计新颖的钻石首饰大有市场。” Dvash也观察到，一向偏重黄金首饰的印度市场近年来 逐渐爱上钻石。他补充说，由于已抛光钻石进口印度须徵 税，因此该市场几乎完全由当地制造商满足供应。 对戴比尔斯来说，美国市场也逐步復甦。Rowley预计今 年零售商将会积极补充天然钻石库存。其日本和东南亚市 场也呈现增长，但他承认后者规模较小，无法弥补中国市场 的损失，甚至印度也未能完全抵消這一損失。 “我们正在寻找替代市场来维持势头，直到中国需求恢 復。我们期待中国市场捲土重来的一天。”Rowley称。 平稳復甦 对Dvash来说，钻石行业面临的最大挑战，是年轻一代对 天然钻石缺乏热忱。 “新一代没有接触过天然钻石象征永恆爱情的宣传企 划，不像以往的消费者般对此刻骨铭心。我们希望行业能够 为通用企划给予相关支持，逐步纠正这一问题。”他说。 他指出，密集式营销必须至少进行五年，才能令消费者 意向产生重大转变。行业协会最近商讨就NDC的品类营销 拨款资助，或许是朝正确方向迈出的一步。
FOCUS 焦点 12 | JNA January/February 2025 经济和地缘政治趋向稳定，也将对钻石行业有利。Dvash 说：“美国新政府有望结束乌克兰和中东的战争，对市场产 生镇静作用。我们也希望利率持续下调。” Rowley认为，在持续补充库存的推动下，钻石行业将逐 渐恢復正常。他说：“初期的正面迹象已有望为天然钻石业 注入朝气。但复苏之路并非一蹴而就。消费者对钻石的需求 将渐渐提升，为天然钻石行业带来动力和稳定性。” 珠光宝气 珍珠行业方面，随着业者开拓不同的市场和消费群体， 需求预计将持续飙升。 日本真珠输出组合(JPEA)今年希望进一步实现日本 Akoya珍珠市场的多元化。JPEA理事长觉田让治表示，疫情 后中国的需求极为强劲，但潜力庞大的新市场也备受关注。 他表示：“近年来，欧美和印度等地的买家对日本Akoya 珍珠表现出更大的兴趣，而且愿意为产品支付溢价。他们非 常欣赏其品质上的一致性且供应稳定，这就是我们在市场 上的主要竞争优势。” 南洋金珠专家Jewelmer对今年的发展机遇同样乐观。 首席执行官Jacques Christophe Branellec乐见美国客户 群再次稳健增长，与此同时，南洋金珠的全球热度正不断升 温。该公司在亚洲和中国市场表现良好，而印度和非洲等新 兴市场也蕴藏着丰厚的潜力。 他预计今年珍珠继续大受欢迎，南洋珠的可持续元素尤 其引起年轻一代的共鸣。 “这些消费者现在开始主导市场，特别是平均年龄较低 的亚洲国家。”他分享道。“许多年轻劳动人口刚取得第一份 薪水或晋升机会，而珍珠正能迎合新一代对道德和可持续 宝石的追求。” Paspaley Pearling Co执行董事Peter Bracher同样对今年 市场的恢復动力充满信心。 他指出，政治冲突和经济动荡在2024年为珠宝行业带来 不确定性，但大致上已尘埃落定，在商品短缺的情况下奠定 了发展基础。 Paspaley计划拓展其珍珠首饰零售品牌的国际声誉。去 年，该公司透过Lux Bond & Green等零售商进入美国市场， 重返全球零售业。“我们之前曾于香港地区开展业务，但在 租约方面遇到了挑战。在过去的10年，我们不得不结束香港 地区的业务并专注澳大利亚市场。”Bracher解释。“我们在澳 大利亚零售业已经有30年历史了，以往10年主要是在巩固 业务。我们现在准备就绪，重返国际市场。” 该公司计划首先在美国循序渐进地发展，并定位为澳大 利亚顶级南洋珠品牌。 宝石行业平衡之道 彩色宝石业也准备好迎接光辉的一年，某些品种和质量 的宝石将会供不应求。 国际珠宝首饰联合会(CIBJO)彩色宝石委员会主席 Charles Abouchar表示，高端彩宝特别受到追捧，采购难度 甚高。“但同时间，在经济形势的影响下，中低端宝石因市场 疲软而面临压力。”他说。 Vitalit Co Ltd的东主Sasha Golokoz对此表示同意，并指 出中档宝石市场已陷入停滞。她解释说，昂贵的优质宝石不 乏需求，但中档次宝石的买家现已退而求其次，采购较低端 的宝石。” 再者，中国采购活动放缓进一步削弱了业务，促使供应 商探索其他扩展途径。 Golokoz表示，Vitalit正在透过于德国和印度的合作商店 寄售彩宝产品，借此寻求新的收入来源。Ploy Center Co Ltd 执行总监Suwatchai Chuabanlue透露，虽然该公司主要对准 欧美客户，但这些客户的订单大多取决于中国客户的需求， 从而影响了销量。现在他正物色中东地区，而该市场偏好于 品质较低的大型宝石。 Abouchar称，彩宝市场上出现林林总总的新型处理方 式，是行业的另一个重大挑战。他说：“目前许多处理方式都 是无法检测的。只要检测不到，就不能说宝石经过处理，无 疑衍生了更多不确定性。” 行业术语 除了市场力量之外，业界人士亦致力维护行业的成功基 石——消费者信心。 去年11月在中国上海举行的2024年CIBJO大会上，一众 演讲嘉宾和会议成员重点关注可持续发展的迫切性、监管 框架和地缘政治的影响、标准术语和充分披露全面信息的 重要性等，所有环节都对珠宝行业产生深远影响。 CIBJO的供应链命名委员会积极制定标准化术语列表， 用于描述珠宝供应链中的产品、原产地、工作流程及其定义。 委员会正在审查责任和道德商业实践的声明中所使用 的术语，当中涵盖原产地和来源的描述。此外，未来几年预 计将订立新法例保护消费者，因此珠宝供应链的业务主张 使用正确术语的重要性不言而喻。 统筹委员兼戴比尔斯集团道德与可持续价值链主管 Purvi Shah表示：“消费者获取和分析资讯的能力日渐提升。 如果我们的主张不可信，很快就会失去消费者的信心。我们 也处于一种取消文化中，万一声誉受到影响，往往需要很长 时间才有机会重新赢取信任。” 以下的术语正在审核和起草动议，预计于2025年第一 季度进行咨询。商业术语包括“责任商业实践”、“道德商业实 践”和“可持续商业实践”。采购术语包括“责任采购”、“道德 采购”和“可持续采购”。溯源术语包括“责任链”、“监管链”、 “可溯性”和“透明度”。原产地及来源术语包括“新开采”、“ 手工开采”、“透过大规模采矿提取”、“回收宝石”、“旧有制 度豁免物料”、“古董珠宝”和“复古珠宝”。 业者应避免使用的术语则包括“生态友善”、“环保”、“可 生物降解”、“绿色/更绿色物料”和“节能/智慧能源珠宝”。
FOCUS 焦点 JNA January/February 2025 | 13 After enduring a difficult year marked by economic uncertainties, high gold prices and fluctuating consumer sentiment, China’s gem and jewellery industry is poised for growth in 2025. A potential bright spot is the rise in demand for high-quality jewellery and cultureinspired designs with a modern twist. Market landscape Citing data from China’s National Statistics Bureau, China Gems & Jade Exchange CEO Simon Chan said gold, silver and jewellery sales recorded a decline of 3.1 per cent to RMB245.4 billion (about US$33.6 billion) from January to September 2024 compared to the same period in 2023. “Jewellery consumption in China is changing,” said Chan. “In 2023, gold jewellery accounted for over 60 per cent of the country’s total jewellery sales. However, with the continued rise in gold prices, we expect gold consumption to have declined in 2024.” Based on his observations of consumption trends across various categories in China's jewellery market as well as onsite business at the jewellery pavilion of the China International Import Expo in November 2024, Chan noted that gold will continue to be a top product category in 2025, although its overall market share may decrease slightly. “The diamond sector has been adversely affected by the lab-grown diamond business. On the other hand, jadeite, jade and pearls are showing significant growth and this momentum is expected to continue in 2025,” shared Chan. “Affordable coloured gemstones are highly sought after too, while buyers are taking a more cautious approach towards high-end coloured gemstones.” Chan said demand will most likely be strongest in the more affordable, mass-market jewellery and the luxury jewellery categories while sales of mid-priced products are projected to slow down. To address this, jewellery brands will need to improve their product segmentation by | Sharon Kwok 郭芷雯 | China's gemstone and jewellery industry demonstrated extraordinary resilience and agility amid challenges as it positions itself for recovery and growth in the Year of the Snake. 中国的宝石和珠宝业在挑 战中展现了非凡的韧性和灵活性，为蛇年的复苏和增长磨砺以须。 remarkably agile jewellery sector China’s 中国珠宝商机灵变通，逆风前行 Gold jewellery set by Shenzhen Cuilu Jewelry Manufacture Corp Ltd 深圳市翠绿首饰制造有限公司的黄金首饰套装
FOCUS 焦点 14 | JNA January/February 2025 pearls and unique items remained steady or even increased. This shows that consumers are prioritising quality and design when purchasing pearl jewellery, rather than merely following trends. Irregular-shaped pearls and distinctive colours such as peacock green and purple are also becoming popular among consumers, he added. “The pearl market will continue to grow in 2025, driven by affluent consumers in first- and second-tier cities and younger consumers with heightened appreciation for and understanding of pearls. The high-end pearl sector, particularly for saltwater and high-quality freshwater pearls, will sustain its upward trajectory,” Tu remarked. Challenges and opportunities Chan said taxes imposed on imported gemstones in China are comparatively higher compared to other international markets, leading to a lack of competitiveness for these gemstones. Furthermore, coloured gemstone imports showed significant fluctuations in recent years, with notable increases from 2021 to 2022 followed by a substantial decline of nearly 73 per cent in 2023. Unstable imports also caused price fluctuations on the supply side, which in turn affected end-consumption. Chan added that the China Gems & Jade Exchange is in the process of requesting a tax reduction on imported gemstones aimed at expanding the scale of coloured gemstone imports. Gem and jewellery industry players agreed that quality and innovative products are key to successfully navigating the ever-evolving market, but they also highlighted sustainability, responsible production and operation, online marketing, and expansion to international markets as critical to successful business strategies. developing and designing specific jewellery pieces that cater to the needs of these two segments. Modern designs With self-indulgence becoming more prevalent in China, consumers are opting for jewellery pieces that allow them to express their individuality, evoke joy and hold emotional value. This is more pronounced among younger buyers. Solid demand for such designs could persist in 2025, according to China-based jewellers. “Despite economic uncertainties, consumer demand for high-quality jewellery has not waned. With improving living standards and a growing preference for personalisation, consumers are willing to pay a premium for unique designs and quality materials,” said Ouyang Huixin, chairman of Shenzhen Guose Jewelry Co Ltd and vice president of the Shenzhen Jewellery Designers Association. Ouyang said Guose Jewelry plans to focus on fine jewellery designs and products that integrate Chinese traditions with modern aesthetics, which align with current market trends. Meanwhile, Chinese jewellery manufacturer and retailer Shenzhen Cuilu Jewelry Manufacture Corp Ltd is embracing a similar design concept, according to Deputy General Manager Ao Li. Consumers want exquisite craftsmanship that reflects an elegant lifestyle and affinity for Chinese culture, she noted. Ao highlighted the success of Cuilu Jewelry’s Ziyanzaoban Collection, which features 24-karat gold jewellery with colourful enamel and diamonds created using various traditional Chinese goldsmithing techniques. “Gold jewellery set with gemstones and diamonds or other materials is likely to sustain its momentum and become a growth driver in 2025,” said Ao. She also sees potential in cross-industry collaborations. For instance, by partnering with tourism companies, jewellers can draw inspiration from local traditions, stories and motifs, and incorporate these elements into their designs. “Through such collaborations, we can offer a wider selection of products while adding cultural value to the jewellery. In turn, the jewellery could resonate strongly with those seeking products that embody culture, art and fashion,” Ao remarked. Pearls Pearls continue to make waves in China’s jewellery sector. According to Tu Xingcai, president of the Shenzhen Pearl Industry Association and chairman of Shenzhen Matis Jewelry Co Ltd, the outlook for China’s pearl market remains bright as consumer appreciation for pearl jewellery continues to grow. “Compared with 2023, the pearl market in 2024 was more rational. Freshwater pearl prices stabilised last year, primarily due to increased pearl production and a notable rise in supply within the market,” explained Tu. Amid a decline in the price of pearl jewellery items like baroque and rice pearl necklaces, which gained popularity through celebrity endorsements, prices of high-quality Gold jewellery by Shenzhen Cuilu Jewelry Manufacture Corp Ltd 深圳市翠绿首饰制造有限公司的黄金首饰
FOCUS 焦点 JNA January/February 2025 | 15 过去一年，中国宝石和珠宝业面临经济环境不明 朗、金价高企、消费者情绪波动等挑战。然而，由 于市场对高品质珠宝，尤其是兼具现代风格与文 化底蕴的设计的需求日益上升，预计2025年该行业将迎来 增长。 市场概况 中国宝玉石交易中心首席执行官陈昱引述国家统计局 数据，2024年1月至9份，黄金、白银和珠宝零售额达2,454亿 元人民币，同比下跌3.1%，表现不如2023年。 陈昱说：“珠宝消费的品类也发生了变化。2023年黄金消 费占据珠宝消费比例超过60%，随着黄金价格持续上涨，预 计2024年整体黄金消费占比呈现下降趋势。” 根据他对中国珠宝市场各品类消费规模，以及2024年11 月中国国际进口博览会珠宝馆现场消费情况的观察，陈昱 认为2025年黄金仍将是最主要的消费品类，但整体占比可 能略有下降。 陈昱说：“钻石业受到合成钻石的冲击。另一方面，翡翠、 玉石和珍珠则呈现显著增长，预计这一势头将在2025年维 持不变。价格实惠的彩色宝石也备受追捧，而买家对高端彩 色宝石则较为谨慎。” 陈昱表示，未来珠宝产业将可能呈现两级分化，一端是 大众珠宝消费，另一端是高端珠宝消费，而中等价位产品的 销售预计将放缓。珠宝品牌需要不断地进行更加细化的产 品开发与设计，以满足这两个细分市场的需求。 时尚设计 悦己主义在中国日趋盛行，消费者倾向选择能够彰显个 性、唤起喜悦和具有情感价值的珠宝首饰，这在年轻买家中 更为明显。中国珠宝商表示，对此类设计的稳健需求可能会 持续到2025年。 国色珠宝(深圳)有限公司董事长、深圳市珠宝首饰设计 师协会副会长欧阳慧馨说：“尽管经济环境有所波动，但消 费者对高品质珠宝的需求并未减弱。随着消费者的生活水 平提高和对个性化的需求增加，消费者愿意为独特的设计 和优质的材料支付更高价格。” 欧阳慧馨表示，国色珠宝计划将重点放在糅合中国传 统元素与现代美学的高级珠宝设计，顺应当前的市场趋势。 与此同时，中国珠宝制造商和零售商深圳市翠绿首饰制 造有限公司常务副总经理敖丽表示，该公司也在采用类似 的设计理念。消费者偏爱以精致工艺来体现优雅生活美学 和深厚中国文化内涵的珠宝。 敖丽强调翠绿珠宝的“自研造办”系列取得成功。该系列 的24K金饰采用多种中国传统金饰工艺制作，配有彩色珐琅 和钻石。 敖丽说：“镶嵌宝石、钻石或其他材料的黄金首饰将继续 保持增长势头，成为2025年的推动力。” 她还提到，跨界融合也有望成为珠宝行业的一大亮点。 例如，珠宝企业通过与各地文旅合作，可以从当地传统、故 事和图案中汲取灵感，推出融合地域文化与独特内涵的文 创珠宝产品， 敖丽说：“这种合作不仅能为消费市场带来更加多元化 的选择，还能提升珠宝产品的文化价值。珠宝首饰也能引起 那些追求体现文化、艺术和时尚产品的人们的强烈共鸣。” 珍珠珍珠继续在中国珠宝业掀起波澜。深圳市珍珠行业协会 会长、深圳市魅力饰珠宝首饰有限公司董事长涂兴财认为， 消费者对珍珠首饰的欣赏力不断提高，中国珍珠市场前景 一片光明。 涂兴财说：“与2023年相比，2024年的珍珠市场更加理 性。去年淡水珍珠价格已经有所回稳，主要原因是珍珠产量 增加，市场供应因此明显增加。” 部分珍珠首饰价格下降，尤其是去年被明星掀起热潮的 巴洛克珍珠和小米珠链降价最明显，但高品质珍珠和独特 产品的价格依然坚挺，甚至有所上涨。这反映出消费者在选 择珍珠首饰时更加注重品质与设计感，而非单纯追随潮流。 他补充说，异形珍珠和独特的颜色(如孔雀绿和紫色)也 正受到消费者的喜爱。 涂兴财说：“在一、二线城市的高端消费者和对珍珠有更 高鉴赏力的年轻消费者的推动下，2025年珍珠市场将继续 增长。高端珍珠市场将继续保持增长态势，尤其是海水珍珠 和优质淡水珍珠。” 挑战与机遇 陈昱说，与其他国际市场比较，中国对进口宝石征收的 税费相对较高，导致这些宝石销售的竞争力不足。 此外，近几年宝石进口量波动较大，2021年至2022年的 进口额均有明显增长，到2023年大幅下降近73%。进口额的 不稳定也造成了供应端的价格波动，这也影响了终端消费。 陈昱补充说，中国宝玉石交易中心正积极申请降低进口 宝玉石的税收，为宝玉石进口规模不断扩大，创造更好的政 策基础。 宝石和珠宝业者一致认为，优质和创新的产品是成功驾 驭不断变化的市场的关键，但他们也强调，可持续发展、负 责任的生产和经营、网络营销和拓展国际市场是成功商业 战略的关键。 Shenzhen Shuibei International Jewellery Exchange Center 深圳水贝国际珠宝交易中心 Gold jewellery set with gemstones and diamonds or other materials is likely to sustain its momentum and become a growth driver in 2025. - Ao Li, deputy general manager of Shenzhen Cuilu Jewelry Manufacture Corp Ltd
PERSPECTIVE 精辟视野 16 | JNA January/February 2025 of gem and jewellery industrial estate Gemopolis in Thailand. “The same thing can happen in Southeast Asia where the luxury market is sustained by high-net-worth individuals. Many international luxury brands are steadily growing their presence in the region,” he shared. Regional synergies Collaboration is a key focus of AGJA, which is building a solid foundation for regional growth through internal and external partnerships. Thailand hosts its secretariat, and the vice chairmen of its international committee come from major jewellery trade associations in Malaysia, Cambodia, Laos, the Philippines, Myanmar and Vietnam. “Around 80 per cent of exporters in Southeast Asia send their products to the US and Europe, with some catering to China and Hong Kong as well. When these main markets experience slowdowns, businesses in the region can get badly hit.” Damrongsakul explained. “ASEAN, with its population of over 600 million, can be a formidable alternative. It has double the population of the US, and each member country continually enhances its infrastructure to attract investments.” Synergies abound as ASEAN covers the entire gem and jewellery supply chain, according to AGJA Vice President Ermin Siow, who is the advisor of the Federation of Goldsmiths and Jewellery Associations of Malaysia. “Southeast Asian countries complement each other. Malaysia buys gemstones from Thailand for its gem-set jewellery. Singapore purchases around 90 per cent of its plain gold jewellery from Malaysia. Each country has diverse raw materials and local consumer preferences that are ideal for regional trade,” said Siow. Membership drive While AGJA started with trade associations as members, individual businesses in the region can now join as well. At press time, AGJA had around 130 corporate members and a The ASEAN Gems and Jewellery Trade Association (AGJA) is on a mission to establish Southeast Asia as a leading manufacturing centre and consumption hub. First formed in 2018, the association put a pause on activities during the pandemic before resuming efforts in 2023. It is now bolstering collaborative ties, expanding its membership and showcasing the strengths of ASEAN (Association of Southeast Asian Nations) on the international stage while ensuring the sustainable development of the region’s gem and jewellery industry. AGJA Chairman Suttipong Damrongsakul said, “Our goal is to make ASEAN the world’s hub of gems and jewellery. We have the capabilities, foundation and experience to achieve this – it is just a matter of time. While geopolitical conflicts in other parts of the world do affect our region, these are also prompting businesses in Europe and the US to consider alternative markets such as Southeast Asia as both suppliers and customers.” Sustainable growth, innovation and collaboration, and thought leadership are the three core pillars of AGJA’s strategy, positioning the association as the leading voice of ASEAN's gems and jewellery industry on the global stage. To advance these objectives, AGJA will host roundtable discussions at key industry events throughout the year: Jewellery & Gem ASEAN Bangkok in April, Singapore International Jewellery Expo in July, and the AGJA Forum during Jewellery & Gem WORLD Hong Kong in September. These gatherings will foster high-level dialogues on trade strategies, sustainable innovation and ASEAN’s growing influence in the global jewellery market. By uniting stakeholders and driving actionable conversations, AGJA aims to lead the region towards a future that is sustainable, collaborative, and globally impactful. ASEAN can replicate the success of China a decade ago when the latter nearly singlehandedly sustained luxury brands while the US and Europe struggled with financial crises, noted Damrongsakul, who is also managing director AGJA | Olivia Quiniquini 程爱莉 | The ASEAN Gems and Jewellery Trade Association (AGJA) cites synergies and collaboration within Southeast Asia and with external partners as the signposts to establishing the region as a global gem and jewellery hub. 东盟宝石与珠宝贸易协会 (AGJA)认为，东南亚內外的协同效应与合作关系，预示该地区将成为全球宝石和珠宝枢纽。 精心规划东盟路线图 outlines roadmap for ASEAN success
PERSPECTIVE 精辟视野 JNA January/February 2025 | 17 东盟宝石与珠宝贸易协会(AGJA)的首要使命，是将 东南亚打造成领先全球的制造和消费中心。 AGJA于2018年成立，疫情期间暂休数年，其 后在2023年重启运营。如今该协会正在加强合作关系，扩大 其成员范围，并在国际舞台上展示东盟(东南亚国家联盟)的 实力，确保区内宝石和珠宝行业的可持续发展。 AGJA主席Suttipong Damrongsakul表示：“我们的目标 是让东盟成为世界宝石和珠宝中心。我们绝对有能力、基础 和经验来实现这一目标，假以时日必能成功。尽管世界各地 的地缘政治冲突影响了东盟地区，但也促使欧美企业考虑 将东南亚等地视为补充新供应商和客户的替代地区。” 他指出，可持续增长、创新与合作，以至思想领导，都是 AGJA的三大核心策略，使该协会成为东盟珠宝产业在环球 舞台上的领先者。 为了达成这些目标，AGJA将于全年的行业盛会中举办 圆桌研讨会，包括4月的曼谷东盟珠宝首饰展览会(JGAB)、 7月的新加坡国际珠宝博览会(SIJE)，以及环球盛事|九月 香港珠宝首饰展览会(JGW)期间的AGJA论坛。这些业界 2025 target of 300. Applicants need to be members of local trade associations in AGJA. Damrongsakul said, “Pranda Group and other major players in the gem and jewellery sector have joined AGJA. This is not a numbers game though. Our focus is on quality.” Members get to connect, share and exchange trade information such as verifying supplier credentials. They are entitled to the APEC Business Card and discounts for services of Gemopolis, the Gem and Jewelry Institute of Thailand (GIT) and the Asian Institute of Gemological Sciences (AIGS), among others. “We also discuss hospitality programmes with event organisers so our members can participate in international trade fairs as either buyers or sellers,” disclosed Siow. The AGJA Pavilion at the 7th China International Import Expo in November 2024 featured Thailand-based suppliers. AGJA also organised a visit to the Taipei International Gemstone Forum and Expo 2024 last June, roadshows to the Middle East and seminars at various events to highlight ASEAN’s market potential. Partnering for growth Knowledge sharing and capacity building are also priorities to ensure sustainable growth in the region. According to Siow, more established players support less developed markets in areas such as gemmological certification and marketing to boost their competencies. Outside ASEAN, AGJA works with trade associations in China, Hong Kong, India, Taiwan, Türkiye and New Zealand. Louis Cheung, chairman of the Hong Kong Jewellery & Jade Manufacturers Association (HKJJA) and Simon Chan, CEO of the China Gems and Jade Exchange (CGJE) are also AGJA vice chairmen. In fact, CGJE serves as AGJA’s secretariat in China and leads its recruitment drive there. Damrongsakul said, “While China is one of ASEAN’s main markets, many Chinese companies are relocating their jewellery and related production to Thailand and Vietnam due to the US-China trade war. It is a two-way street. The goal is to provide more business opportunities for both parties.” 聚会将促进深层次对话，议题包括贸易策略、可持续创新， 还有东盟在全球珠宝市场日益增长的影响力。AGJA透过 团结业界人士并推动实质对话，致力引领该地区走向可持 续、紧密合作和具有全球影响力的未来。他续称，东盟其实 能够参考中国十年前的成功例子。当时欧美市场身陷金融 危机之际，中国几乎独力支撑了奢侈品牌的业务。“东南亚 的奢侈品市场受到高淨值人士的推动，因此也可以达到同 样的成果。许多国际高级品牌正在稳步扩大在区内的影响 力。”Damrongsakul同时兼任泰国Gemopolis珠宝工贸区的 执行总监。 区域协同效应 AGJA透过在内部和外部建立伙伴合作关系，为地区发 展奠定坚实的基础。其秘书处设于泰国，国际委员会副主席 来自马来西亚、柬埔寨、老挝、菲律宾、缅甸和越南等国的主 要珠宝业协会。“东南亚约80%的出口商将产品销往欧美，部 分也会销往中国内地和香港地区。当这些主要市场的经济 放缓，区内的企业可能会受到严重打击。”Damrongsakul解 释。“人口超过6亿的东盟潜力庞大，人口是美国的两倍，而 每个国家都在加强基础设施以吸引投资者。” AGJA副主席兼马来西亚金钻珠宝商公会联合总会顾问 萧德明表示，由于东盟涵盖了整个宝石和珠宝供应链，因此 产生强大的协同效应。他补充：“东南亚国家能够互补优势。 马来西亚从泰国采购宝石进行首饰镶嵌。而新加坡约90%的 素金首饰都是来自马来西亚。每个国家都有不同的原材料 优势和消费者偏好，是开展区域贸易的理想环境。” 会员驱动发展 AGJA的初期成员主要为区内的贸易协会，但个体企业 现在也可以加入。截至发稿之时，AGJA约有130家企业会 员，2025年的目标是300家。申请者必须为AGJA旗下地区贸 易协会的成员。Damrongsakul表示：“Pranda Group等大型 珠宝公司已加入AGJA的行列。但这不是一个数字游戏。我 们重视的是会员的质量。” 在这个平台上，会员可以联系共享和交流行业资讯，例 如验证供应商的资历。他们亦可获发APEC商务卡，并享有 Gemopolis、GIT泰国珠宝学院和AIGS亚洲宝石研究院等机 构的服务折扣。“我们也与展览会主办机构商讨酒店款待计 划，以便会员参加国际贸易展，不论是以买家或是供应商的 身分出席。”萧德明透露。 2024年11月举行的第七届中国国际进口博览会的AGJA 展廊以泰国供应商为焦点。AGJA也主办了2024年6月参与台 北国际宝石学术暨展览研讨会、中东地区的路演，以及在各项 行业活动中举办研讨会，以推广东盟的市场潜力。 合作促进成长 知识共享和能力建设也是确保东盟地区可持续成长的 优先事项。萧德明表示，经验较丰富的业者会在宝石认证和 营销等领域支持有待发展的市场，以提升其水平。 除东盟以外，AGJA还与中国内地和香港地区、印度、台 湾地区、土耳其和新西兰的行业协会合作。香港珠宝玉石厂 商会(HKJJA)会长张敬猷和中国宝玉石交易中心(CGJE)首 席执行官陈昱担任AGJA的副主席职务，而CGJE亦是AGJA 的中国秘书处，负责当地的会员招募工作。 Damrongsakul称：“虽然中国是东盟的主要市场之一， 但中美贸易战促使许多中国公司将其珠宝及相关生产运营 转移到泰国和越南。这是一种相辅相成的关系。目标是为双 方创造更多商机。”
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