MARKET INTELLIGENCE 市场情报 88 | JNA September/October 2024 意大利珠宝以精致工艺闻名于世，但珠宝商也在创 新和发展策略方面一往无前，在不断蜕变的行业 中保持领先地位。 制造商正在物色亚洲等新市场，同时为标志性系列注入 当代概念和元素。 此外，一些公司也在建立社交媒体形象并革新设计，以 吸引年轻一代的买家，同时在重重挑战下保持韧性，适应行 业新环境。 意国优秀工艺 FerriFirenze的创办人Giulia Callegari表示，意大利珠宝 以优雅气质和创新设计取胜。该公司在意大利佛罗伦斯开 设工厂，在设计和生产方面一丝不苟。 Callegari称：“FerriFirenze的珠宝既独特又具灵活度，展 现了出色的意大利工艺。它们与一般首饰的主要区别，在于 难以采用机器生产。” “Classic designs are performing well at present. While I sell mainly to retailers, I have to think of what is attractive to the end-consumer as well. And now is not the time to be experimental. The piece must be easy and comfortable to wear too,” he added. Enduring legacy Giorgio Visconti Spa, a top player in Italy’s jewellery manufacturing scene, also found new retailer clients in Hong Kong at the beginning of 2024. These were mostly buyers from Hong Kong, Japan and the Philippines, and some from Russia, revealed company CEO Andrea Visconti. The brand, established almost eight decades ago in Valenza, mainly caters to US and European clients. Citing ongoing global uncertainties, Visconti said the disparity between upper- and lower-class markets continues to widen, inadvertently obliterating the middle-class segment, which had demonstrated a steadily increasing buying power over the years. This is particularly tough for jewellery businesses who need to position their brands carefully and correctly. The trend is most pronounced in Europe and the US, commented Visconti. “This phenomenon has been going on for many years, but now the gap is further expanding, which means the middle-class market is disappearing. The buyer would either belong to top-tier or low-tier categories,” he stated. “This is why brand and product positioning in this new regime is extremely important.” Another observation shared by Visconti is the market’s rising appreciation for high-end jewellery as a store of wealth, especially during difficult times. This is where Italian jewellers’ expertise, resilience and innovative spirit come to the fore, he added. “We have been seeing an increase in demand for information on the jewellery prior to purchasing such as specific features of the gem or diamond,” Visconti noted. “This is an indication of people wanting to buy something of value.” This kind of jewellery culture should also be inculcated in today’s younger generation. Unlike their predecessors, younger consumers have at their disposal unlimited access to online information. They would often spend copious amounts of time researching a product they are eyeing to buy before trying it out in the physical store. This diligence and precision define their unique purchasing behaviour. Even the jewellery design is influenced by this evolution. Younger clients would now ask for multi-stone engagement rings as opposed to solitaires in the past. “They find millions of design inspirations online. This is reshaping their jewellery choices, and we are willing to address these emerging buyer preferences in our upcoming collections,” shared Visconti. Luxury jewellery boutique in Milan 在米兰的高级珠宝店 Valenza, Italy 意大利瓦伦扎市
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