MARKET INTELLIGENCE 市场情报 82 | JNA September/October 2024 翠绿的山丘连绵起伏，嶙峋巨石矗立其中，围抱着 一座11世纪教堂和中世纪城堡，山间小河缓缓流 淌。在德国西南部，伊达尔-奥伯施泰因镇风景如 画，看来不像是杰出行业和创意的孕育之地，但却造就珠宝 界的传奇地位。在色彩柔和的建筑背后，隐藏着蓬勃的创造 力、不屈不挠的开拓理念和同心协力的精神。 伊达尔-奥伯施泰因虽然位处相对偏僻，须经法兰克福 或邻近的卢森堡乘坐飞机前往，但仍然受到全球设计师和 收藏家的关注，希望寻得独一无二的稀有宝石和艺术品。 回溯至600年前，该镇已发现了玛瑙、碧石、紫水晶和红 玉髓等宝石，并逐渐发展成宝石切割中心。镇上居民开发了 第一个以伊达尔河水驱动的立式砂岩磨轮，因而备受赞誉。 随着创新技术蓬勃发展，宝石切割行业欣欣向荣，令该镇以 抛光宝石和工艺品而闻名。 到了1800年代，尽管矿藏逐渐萎缩，但该镇的切割工匠 也成为了行业先驱，开始踏进国际领域。面对当时的逆境， 人们纷纷航行至巴西等地寻找原石，全凭其专业知识发掘 深藏地底的宝石矿源，其中包括南里约格兰德州的玛瑙矿 床。早在1834年，大量玛瑙和其他宝石就被运返家乡，大部 分用作巴西卸货船隻上的压载物。 近200年后，正是这种与生俱来的创新思维、热忱和创造 力，仍然推动着该镇的宝石业发展。 Constantin Wild GmbH & Co KG的执行总监Constantin Wild解释道：“伊达尔-奥伯施泰因的宝石公司凭藉专业知 识和一流技术，满足全球消费市场对优质宝石的需求。”该 公司由Constantin Wild的曾祖父在1847年创立，而作为家 族企业的第十代传人，他继续将热情和创新融入作品之中。 他指出：“镇上的宝石商发挥几代人的奉献精神和深厚 知识，来迎合全球对独特瑰宝的需求。” 帕拉伊巴碧玺、柑橘石榴石、帝王拓帕石、海蓝宝石和各 种蓝宝石，都是其公司的重点宝石品种。 “I learned a lot from the dealers in Sri Lanka. They gave me the knowledge and inspiration to go forth into the gemstone world,” Hans-Jürgen revealed. Alexandrites; blue, yellow and pink sapphires; and the magnificent Padparadscha sapphire were among his favourite purchases. In the 1980s when news of a ruby find in the John Saul mine in Kenya reached Idar-Oberstein, Hans-Jürgen was one of the first to arrive and purchased a selection of rough. Similarly, the first Paraiba tourmalines to reach the world market came from him. “I was the first to come out of Brazil with a handful of these first Paraibas. We did not know the value of this find and sold the pieces for virtually nothing. For example, a 6.5carat unheated Paraiba sold to the Smithsonian for 6,500 Deutsche Marks (around US$3,600),” he recalled. The next big find was the spessartite or mandarin garnet in Namibia, which he brought to market. But the most spectacular discovery for him was peridot in 1992 in the Himalayas of Kashmir. An avid mountaineer, he was hiking the Himalayas when a local dealer showed him the first pieces from a new find that miners working on a magnesite vein for high-tech industrial purposes had stumbled upon. Hans-Jürgen said, “The agent believed they were emerald. I suspected they were peridot, and Dr Hermann Bank, head of the German Gemmological Institute at the time, confirmed the samples as peridot that had formed at the same time as the Himalayas.” In the Henn showroom in Idar, he reveals some of the earth’s treasures sculpted by local carvers and cutters. His son, Axel, runs the local operations while his younger son, Ingo, a goldsmith who works out of his Henn of London studio in Hatton Garden, sets some of these fine creations into jewels. New tech Idar-Oberstein is defined by its drive to innovate. The current focus is on new technologies, and companies such as Constantin Wild use computer-aided design (CAD), computer numerical control (CNC) and even artificial intelligence (AI). “We are exploring AI's potential across various applications, from enhancing design and cutting processes to revolutionising our marketing strategies,” Constantin disclosed. Recently, the company created new branding using an AI-generated campaign. New technology, he emphasised, is however only a tool to complement hand cutting. “We cherish the centuries-old tradition of hand cutting. Modern technology and traditional craftsmanship are not an ‘either/or’ choice; it is part of our toolkit, to achieve maximum quality,” Constantin said. It is this inclusive pragmatism together with its exceptional creativity, trailblazing attitude, strong scientific community and advanced gemmological and lapidary education that make Idar-Oberstein a unique gemstone ecosystem: A sustainable centre that has an inherent capability to continue to supply rare treasures to gemstone lovers for decades or even centuries to come. Imperial topaz from Constantin Wild GmbH & Co KG Constantin Wild GmbH & Co KG的帝王拓帕石 Morganite falcon by Henn GmbH Henn GmbH的摩根石猎鹰
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