FOCUS 焦点 12 | JNA September/October 2024 Cultural significance Turkish jewellers produce a different kind of gold jewellery – one that is steeped in historical influences and cultural motifs. According to manufacturers, their focus on design, quality, customisation and affordability sets them apart from other jewellery manufacturing regions. “Simple and lightweight jewellery is gaining traction in the market,” said Kerem Yoldas of Akhas Jewellery. “We use innovative 3D printers to produce lightweight gold jewellery in unique designs that resonate well with our customers.” Akhas Jewellery manufactures an extensive selection of gold jewellery, ranging from sets and half sets to bracelets, bangles and rings. Its primary market is the Middle East. Gold jeweller Kurtulan, meanwhile, is offering 24-karat gold jewellery embellished with sapphires, rubies and emeralds. According to Ismet Naci Kurtulan, CEO of Kurtulan, setting gemstones in pure gold required a special technique developed by the company. Kurtulan specialises in handmade jewellery pieces in one-of-a-kind designs, which align with heightened appreciation for self-expression and individuality among today’s consumers. Its jewellery pieces are meticulously produced in-house and sold locally and overseas. The company exports gold jewellery to China, Hong Kong, the Middle East, Korea, Japan, Europe and the US, with each collection specifically tailored to these markets’ diverse preferences. Customers in the US and the Middle East favour larger, statement pieces with bigger gemstones while Asian buyers, particularly those from China, prefer smaller, finer gemstones set in their jewellery, revealed Naci. Demand for 24-karat gold remains strong among Chinese buyers due to the metal’s traditional significance while 18-karat gold is more popular in Europe and the US. Evolving consumer behaviours are mainly influenced by social media, added the company official. One observation is higher demand for jewellery pieces for everyday wear, often driven by the desire to display these pieces on social media platforms. “It is important to create items that are appealing, possibly substantial in size, and priced very reasonably,” explained Naci. “We combine silver with 24-karat gold to create high-quality pieces at reasonable price points, so people can keep purchasing fresh designs.” Both Yoldas and Naci pointed to customisation and flexibility in production as key to sustaining their edge in the international market. Yoldas, however, said Turkish gold jewellery manufacturers are faced with strict government regulations on gold imports to Türkiye. A quota system for unprocessed gold imports implemented by the government in 2023 has severely impacted some Turkish jewellers. This policy also results in higher domestic gold production costs. The widening disparity between Turkey's domestic gold prices and the international market premium makes setting consistent gold prices for customers all the more challenging. “This situation is not only affecting our company but also the Turkish jewellery industry as a whole. If this regulation remains in place, we may consider moving production to another country,” continued Yoldas. 黄金因其丰润温暖的色泽和华丽高贵的外观而令 人趋之若鹜，在奢侈品界掀起了一股热潮。自今 年年初以来，设计师品牌在最新系列中推出了各 种芥末黄礼服和配饰，金饰在各大时尚品牌秀场上的曝光 率倍增。 这股热浪毫无疑问地蔓延至高级珠宝界，从黄金珠宝的 需求回升可见一斑。在黄金首饰最具影响力的拥护者中，有 几家大企业正在重新定义现代人对这种贵金属的印象。 在蒂芙尼发布的2024 Blue Book : Tiffany Céleste苍穹万 象高级珠宝系列——炽阳之焰中，黄金是唤起人们对太阳耀 斑和炽热色彩联想的关键词。另外，黄金也是Messika的“午 夜太阳活动”，还有卡地亚、伯爵和宝诗龙等品牌标志性系 列的主要元素。接受《JNA亚洲珠宝》采访的珠宝制造商都表 示，黄金在珠宝业中重新焕发辉煌魅力。 代表富裕的颜色 意大利珠宝商Gi loro的总部位于瓦伦扎，其负责人 Pierpaolo Cervetti透露，继玫瑰金备受追捧后，今年黄金强 势回归，再次引领潮流。该公司专门生产18K金首饰，主要销 往亚洲和欧洲。 Cris Collection by Giloro Giloro的Cris系列
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