CONTENTS Issue #448 | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2024 26 STRATEGY 企业策略 26 Rekindling desire for diamonds 天然钻石热度重燃 16 DESIGN 设计 16 Jewellery dreams and fantasies 梦幻珠宝乐园 8DIGEST 市场指标 8 New record high for gold prices 金价创历史新高 10 FOCUS 焦点 10 2024 in review: A year of resiliency and change 2024年回顾：珠宝业创新变革展韧性 20 Embarking on a creative journey 燃点创作旅途 23 Contemporary South African platinum jewellery 当代南非铂金首饰
On the Cover 封面 Floral-themed earrings, ring and watch from the Giardino Primavera Collection of SICIS Jewels, featuring the Italian brand’s signature micromosaic technique. Celebrating the colours of spring, the collection enchants with red and pink micromosaic flowers embellished with diamonds, blue and pink sapphires, and tanzanite stones. SICIS Jewels Giardino Primavera系列的耳环、戒指和腕表，这些首饰均以花卉为 主题，并采用该意大利品牌知名的微镶马赛克工艺，呈现红色和粉红色的微镶马赛 克花朵，缀以钻石、蓝宝石、粉红蓝宝石和坦桑石，洋溢着春天的色彩。 Digital version 电子版： https://news.jewellerynet.com/en/publications 42 The age of smart fine jewellery 智能高级珠宝新时代 45 Stronger overseas buyer presence at JGW 2024 环球盛事 | 九月香港珠宝首饰展览会 迎来更多海外买家 48 Japan Jewellery Fair 2024 highlights local artistry 2024年日本珠宝展聚焦本土工艺 38 MARKET INTELLIGENCE 市场情报 38 Emerging opportunities for jewellery mounting companies 珠宝托商的崭新机遇 30 SPOTLIGHT 市场聚焦 30 Sustainability heroes in the limelight 聚焦杰出可持续发展企业 32 Orient Odyssey: Diving into the intriguing world of pearls 珠光宝旅：珍珠的奇妙世界 34 MARKET WATCH 市场观察 34 The golden legacy of Middle Eastern jewellers 中东珠宝商的黄金传奇
Every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information in JNA. However, the publication of such information is at the sole discretion of the publisher. The publisher and the editorial team shall not be held responsible or in any way held liable for any errors, omissions or inaccuracies in this publication, or for any consequences arising therefrom. The contents of this publication are protected by copyright and cannot be reproduced, photocopied, transmitted or posted in any form without the prior written consent of the publisher. 本得公以司任已何尽方力式确翻保印《、J仿N制A亚或洲转珠载宝本》刊所物刊任登何的部内份容之正文确字无或误图。片如。因错漏而引致任何损失，本公司概不负责。本公司保留刊登有关资料的一切权利。版权所有，如未获得本公司事先之书面允许，不 Printed by Asia One Printing Limited,13/F, Asia One Tower, 8 Fung Yip Street, Chai Wan, Hong Kong. 印刷商: 宏亚印务有限公司香港柴湾丰业街8号宏亚大厦13楼 Associate Publisher & Editor-in-Chief Olivia Quiniquini 副出版人及主编 程爱莉 EDITORIAL 编辑部 Deputy Editor Bernardette Sto. Domingo 副编辑 杜明高 Assistant Editor Sharon Kwok 助理編輯 郭芷雯 Assistant Digital Product Manager William Yick 助理数码产品经理 易昌耀 ADVERTISING 广告部 Assistant Director Christine Sinn 区域营业总监 冼蕙珠 MARKETING 市場推广部 Senior Marketing & Communications Manager Ronny Pang 高级市场及传讯经理 彭秋影 Assistant Marketing & Communications Manager Monica Kwok 市場及傳訊助理經理 郭君寧 Marketing & Communications Executive Vincent Wong 市场及传讯主任 黄志伟 PRODUCTION 制作部 Production Manager Jennifer So 制作部经理 苏丽娟 Senior Designer Eva Kam 高级设计师 甘铭灵 ADVERTISING REPRESENTATIVES 广告代理 China 中国: 广州代表处 胡淑晶 | Tel 电话: (86) 20 8666 0158 Email 电邮: [email protected] Germany 德国: Liz Dobelmann | Tel 电话: (49) 721 384 1881 Email 电邮: [email protected] Italy 意大利: Mauro Arati | Tel 电话: (39) 02048517853 Email 电邮: [email protected] Japan 日本: Nobuaki Nito | Tel 电话: (81) 3 52961020 Email 电邮: [email protected] Taiwan 台湾: Rita Hung | Tel 电话: (886) 2 2738 3898 Email 电邮: [email protected] Thailand 泰国: Thitima Sriutharawong | Tel 电话: (66) 0 2 036 0500 Ext. 248 Email 电邮: [email protected] US 美国: Bonnie Chan | Tel 电话: (1) 347 906 4693 Email 电邮: [email protected] President & CEO - Asia Margaret Ma Connolly 亚洲主席及行政总裁 马颖 Senior Vice President - Asia David Bondi 亚洲高级副总裁 庞大为 Director of Jewellery Fairs Celine Lau 珠宝展览部总监 刘小雯 Published by Informa Markets 出版 17/F, China Resources Building, 26 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong 香港湾仔港湾道26号华润大厦17樓 Email 电邮: [email protected] JewelleryNet.com
DIGEST 市场指标 8 | JNA November/December 2024 US$6.6M 660万美元 7.8% Online Trade Updates 新闻快讯 NRF predicts steady growth in US holiday sales NRF预测美国假日销售 稳步增长 First hybrid jewellery sustainability certificate in development 首份结合 可持续发展信息的珠宝证书正在开发中 Changing retail landscape dampens HK sales in August 零售业环境转变 拖累香港地区8月份销售表现 Holiday spending in the US is expected to surpass 2023 figures, owing to sustained momentum and solid economic growth, the National Retail Federation (NRF) announced. 美国零售联合会(NRF)估计，由于市场消费气氛 持续和经济增长稳健，美国的假日消费将高于 2023年。 Third-party sustainability certification firm SCS Global Services and iTraceiT, a jewellery traceability solutions provider, are developing the first hybrid sustainability and traceability certificate for diamonds and jewellery. 第三方可 持续发展认证公司SCS Global Services和珠宝可 溯源解决方案提供商iTraceiT现正合作，为钻石 和珠宝首饰业开发首份结合可持续发展和可溯 源的证书。 Hong Kong is attributing lacklustre retail sales in August to a shift in consumption patterns among locals alongside a stronger Hong Kong dollar and increased outbound travels, among other factors. 由于本地人消费模式转变、港元走强及外游人数 增加，香港地区零售业于8月份的销售疲弱。 Our digital platform provides additional content for an even more comprehensive industry perspective. Scan the QR code for the full story and more trade news. 我们的数字平台载有更多更全面的 行业视角报道，请扫瞄二维码查看 全文和更多行业信息。 news.jewellerynet.com/en/jnanews The price of gold per ounce as of October 23, 2024, according to data from the World Gold Council. Gold prices have climbed beyond the US$2,700/oz mark, driven by buyers turning to the precious metal as a safe haven amid US elections uncertainties and continued geopolitical tensions in the Middle East. Total sales achieved at Phillips Hong Kong Jewels Auction held on October 3, 2024, representing an 89 per cent yearon-year increase. According to Phillips, 76 per cent of the 97 lots offered were sold, with 35 per cent having exceeded high pre-sale estimates while 15 lots achieved more than double their low presale estimates. The highlight was a 7.02carat Burmese ruby and diamond ring, which fetched HK$9.88 million (around US$1.27 million). Worldwide Head of Jewellery at Phillips Benoît Repellin said collectors actively participated in all areas of the sale and paid a premium for rare coloured gems and signed pieces. 在10月3日举行的富艺斯(Phillips)香港地区珠宝拍卖会的成交额，同比上 升89%。富艺斯表示，97件拍品中有76%已售出，其中35%的成交拍品超过 了售前的最高估价，15件拍品的成交价是售前最低估价的两倍多。最高价 拍品是一枚重7.02克拉的缅甸红宝石钻石戒指，以988万港元(约127万美 元)成交。富艺斯全球珠宝部主管Benoît Repellin表示，收藏家积极参与了 拍卖会中各个项目，并为罕见的彩色宝石和签名珠宝支付了溢价。 Decline in China’s jewellery sales in September 2024, data from the National Statistics Bureau of China showed. Sales of gold, silver and jewellery dropped 3.1 per cent year on year during the first three quarters of 2024, reflecting muted domestic demand amid continued economic woes. Meanwhile, overall retail sales of consumer goods inched up 3.3 per cent year on year in the first nine months of the year. 根据世界黄金协会的数据，截至2024年10月23日黄金的每盎司价格。在 美国总统大选的不确定性和中东地缘政治局势持续紧张的情况下，买家 视贵金属为避风港，推动金价攀升，突破2,700美元/盎司大关。 中国国家统计局的数据显示，在2024年9月珠宝首饰销售额的跌幅。而黄 金、白银和珠宝销售额在2024年首三季度則同比下跌3.1%，反映在经济 持续低迷的情况下，国内需求疲软。与此同时，社会消费品零售总额在今 年首九个月錄得3.3%的同比增长。 印度 US$2,736.45 美元 A 7.02-carat Burmese ruby and diamond ring (Photo credit: Phillips) 一枚重7.02克拉的缅甸红宝石 钻石戒指 (图片鸣谢: 富艺斯)
FOCUS 焦点 10 | JNA November/December 2024 For many in the jewellery industry, 2024 is a year of trials and revivals – marked by early gains and moderately positive business performance as well as complex challenges down the road. Shoots of post-crisis recovery were evident at the beginning of the year. De Beers Group reported encouraging results from its first sales cycle in January on the back of steady consumer demand for diamond jewellery in the US alongside resumption of diamond imports into India after a two-month moratorium in 2023. Market appetite for luxury jewellery was also on the rise, coming from solid holiday sales in 2023. The National Retail Federation (NRF) reported solid gains in US retail sales in the first two months of the year due to a resilient labour market and sustained consumer spending. A more favourable retail environment was similarly apparent in Hong Kong, with the jewellery retail sector registering double-digit growth in January sales, supported by inbound tourism and economic growth. Cracks, however, started to appear as demand from the traditionally strong China market began to dwindle coupled with soaring gold prices and macroeconomic and geopolitical turmoil, which eventually resulted in supply chain bottlenecks. Specifically, a surplus in diamond inventories was becoming more pronounced. The World Gold Council (WGC), meanwhile, attributed lacklustre gold jewellery consumption in the first half of the year to pricier gold and weakening consumer sentiment. WGC data showed gold prices as of October 23 this year reached US$2,736.45 per ounce, up 40 per cent from US$1,963.65/oz on October 24, 2023. In its Q2 Gold Demand Trends Report, the council said global demand was down 19 per cent year on year, with China recording the largest dip of 35 per cent and India | Bernardette Sto. Domingo 杜明高 with reports from Olivia Quiniquini 程爱莉 and Sharon Kwok 郭芷雯 | Amid a promising start to 2024, unprecedented challenges such as China’s economic breakdown, political wars as well as shifting consumer preferences began taking their toll on the gem and jewellery trade. Adapting to the changing times, however, could be key to unlocking new opportunities and sources of growth. 珠宝业在2024年的开局理想， 但年内中国经济衰退、政治战争，加上消费者偏好转变等等空前挑战，对宝石和珠宝贸易造成影响。 然而，企业及时适应时代的变化，是开启新机遇和推动增长的关键。 A year of resiliency and change 2024 in review: 2024年回顾：珠宝业创新变革展韧性
FOCUS 焦点 JNA November/December 2024 | 11 Damien Cody, president of the International Colored Gemstone Association (ICA), said sluggish demand for luxury items in 2024 had adversely affected the jewellery supply chain. “While jewellery carries a significant emotional, personal and cultural meaning, it is a discretionary purchase by its nature, so sales are heavily influenced by financial circumstances,” remarked Cody. Inflation and high interest rates may have played a role in people’s decision to cut back on non-essential spending such as jewellery. For businesses to thrive, consumers must feel both “confident and happy,” he said, noting that the global financial and political climate “has not been conducive to robust sales of jewellery.” For his part, Dvash explained that current headwinds are part of a “recovery process” for the industry. “It has been painful, but it was essential. The industry will grow from these challenges,” he noted. Trends With Chinese demand on the downtrend, the US remains a beacon of hope for the diamond trade. According to Dvash, the fastest-moving products in this market are round and fancy shaped diamonds of F to H colours and VS to SI clarity grades. Diamond prices are likewise stabilising, partially due to De Beers limiting the supply of rough diamonds to buyers and consolidating Sights. Several industry players have also started collaborating to promote natural diamonds to younger buyers and emerging markets. In the coloured gemstone trade, finer goods and rare coloured gemstones continue to command high prices, according to Cody. Gemstone prices have likewise become more stable, thanks to improved production post-Covid. Cody expects prices to return to more reasonable levels in 2025. Markets other than China are also fuelling demand for coloured gems. He noted growing interest from buyers in India, Taiwan, Korea, Singapore, the Philippines, Indonesia and Australia at the September Fair in Hong Kong. seeing a 17 per cent decline. WGC described it as “the weakest second quarter since 2020, when jewellery demand felt the worst impact of the pandemic.” First-half gold jewellery demand fell 10 per cent year on year. Jewellery retail sales in Hong Kong likewise lost their initial lustre, recording a 12.8 per cent drop in the first half of 2024 due to fluctuations in consumption patterns and a strong Hong Kong dollar. China's jewellery sales were down, too, falling 7.8 per cent year on year in September and 3.1 per cent during the first three quarters of 2024, reflecting muted domestic demand amid continued economic woes. The diamond sector was particularly hit hard, with De Beers’ interim 2024 results showing a 20 per cent downtrend in rough diamond sales to US$2 billion from U$2.5 billion in June 2023. Citing continued oversupply in the market, De Beers opted to combine its August and October 2024 Sights. A year of adjustments Yoram Dvash, president of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB), described 2024 as one of the most challenging years for the diamond industry in the past 30 to 40 years, with difficulties such as excess supply being felt in markets across the globe. Uncertainties in China, which is a major market for diamond companies in Asia, have also dampened global demand, he continued. “Demand for diamonds was down in general,” noted Dvash, adding that in some major markets, including the US and Australia, increased sales of lab-grown diamonds made a dent on the natural diamond business. Nishith Mehta, vice president of fine jeweller Varsha Inc, said lower demand for natural diamonds resulted in a drop in both prices and sales volumes. Lab-grown diamond jewellery, for instance, is becoming more mainstream and has found favour beyond the bridal jewellery category. “This change is happening faster than expected, especially as labgrown diamond prices are falling quickly,” remarked Mehta. US$979.5B to US$989B 9,795亿至9,890亿美元 Projected holiday spending in the US by end-2024, according to the National Retail Federation 美国零售联合会预测2024年年底美国假日购物季的消费额
FOCUS 焦点 12 | JNA November/December 2024 “There is no doubt that the fall in demand for diamonds has resulted in increased appetite for coloured gems. We will have to wait and see how long this aberration might last,” added Cody. In terms of finished jewellery, Mehta of Varsha said classic pieces like tennis bracelets and necklaces, and hoop earrings are among the top-selling items while dainty, understated jewellery pieces are gaining popularity, given the high price of gold. Platinum jewellery as well as those adorned with labgrown diamonds and coloured gemstones are also favoured in the market. Sophia Macris, creative director of Verragio Fine Jewelry, which is a strong player in the bridal ring category, observed that customers are expanding their offerings to include other fine jewellery pieces. “We made sure to include price points between US$750 to US$1,500 at retail to accommodate customers who have not purchased fine jewellery outside of their bridal rings,” she noted. “In that price range, our 18-karat-gold pearl and diamond pendants perform exceptionally well.” Meanwhile, Christian Tse, president of Christian Tse Designs and Manufacturing Inc, pointed to stronger demand for personalised and theme-based jewellery, particularly in Europe. Buyers are also on the lookout for more innovative designs, including bejewelled hair clips and anklets. A younger generation of buyers becoming a dominant force in the jewellery market is influencing a move towards bolder, more expressive and unconventional jewellery designs, he added. “With their purchasing power expected to surpass that of millennials within the next decade, this shift is bringing new expectations and preferences to the forefront,” remarked Tse. “Brands should embrace more daring designs to cater to Gen Z tastes, including elements like asymmetry, bold colours and unique materials.” The year 2024 also saw enhanced dedication to sustainability initiatives and digital strategies, noted Tse. Other markets While the US remains a key growth driver, India also emerged as an important player in 2024, helping to balance out challenges arising from inactivity in China, noted Mehta. “India is an emerging market with promising potential, but overall, majority of the business is coming from the US, with only a small portion from Asia,” he added. In Hong Kong, jewellery manufacturers are advised to diversify and expand to other international markets like Southeast Asia and the Middle East to combat market volatility, shared Louis Cheung, chairman of the Hong Kong Jewellery & Jade Manufacturers Association and managing director of Edelweiss Jewellery Co Ltd. “Demand for high-end jewellery in these regions is on a steady rise, presenting new opportunities for Hong Kong's jewellery companies,” remarked Cheung. He added that weak demand is dampening sentiment in diamond jewellery businesses, leading to reduced trading volume in the midstream. Meanwhile, in the pearl sector, prices have returned to normal from peak levels. Hong Kong Jewelry Manufacturers’ Association Chairwoman Bronia Yip likewise underscored the need to adjust to market changes. “Jewellers in Hong Kong are not only adapting to new trends but also improving production and operations, making us more competitive in the international market,” she disclosed. “More jewellery companies are beginning to use new technology such as 3D printing and artificial intelligence in order to enhance production efficiency.” A new hope Dvash of WFDB said reducing supply of rough diamonds and De Beers’ decision to cut back on Sights are bringing about positive developments in the diamond trade. Industry-wide marketing campaigns aimed at driving demand, specifically those led by De Beers and the Natural Diamond Council, are also critical to inspiring renewed desire for diamonds. The WFDB, for its part, is working with the Shanghai Diamond Exchange to bolster demand in China. “Recovery will be gradual, but we hope to see a more positive trend in the upcoming US holidays,” shared Dvash. “I believe we will have a better-than-expected Christmas season, with a positive forecast for 2025.” Cody of ICA echoed this upbeat sentiment, adding that fiscal constraints are expected to ease throughout 2025 while major national elections will have been concluded during that time, creating a more buoyant and confident retail environment for coloured gemstones. Macris of Verragio, for her part, is counting on gold’s inherent appeal to support the jewellery sector amid the metal’s skyrocketing prices. After the financial crisis of 2008, when the price of gold also shot up, brands responded by using alternative materials. “A fine jewellery customer, one who loves 18-karat gold and cherishes her jewellery, will have a heightened sense of the gold’s value as the price rises, rather than retreat to a cheaper material,” said Macris. “Now, there is an opportunity to speak to the inherent value of gold as prices soar and emphasise the lasting legacy of fine jewellery.” Recovery will be gradual, but we hope to see a more positive trend in the upcoming US holidays. - Yoram Dvash, president of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses
FOCUS 焦点 JNA November/December 2024 | 13 对于珠宝业界人士来说，2024年是充满考验和复苏 的一年——从年初稳健的业务表现获得进账，同 时面对复杂的挑战。 危机后的复苏苗头在年初就已显现。由于美国消费者对 钻石珠宝的需求稳定，同时印度在2023年暂停钻石进口两 个月后又恢复正常，戴比尔斯集团在1月份公布的首个销售 周期中，取得了令人鼓舞的成绩。 此外，2023年假日旺季的销售额稳定，反映市场对奢侈 珠宝的需求上升。美国零售联合会(NRF)报告称，因为劳动 力市场展韧性，消费者支出持续增长，今年首两个月的美国 零售销售额稳步上扬。 香港地区的零售环境同样较为有利，在访港旅游和经济 增长的支持下，珠宝零售业1月份的销售额实现了双位数的 增长。 可是，随着传统强劲的中国市场需求减少，加上金价飙 升，以及宏观经济和地缘政治动荡，裂缝开始出现，最终导致 供应链出现瓶颈。具体而言，钻石库存过剩的问题日益显著。 世界黄金协会(WGC)则将上半年黄金珠宝消费疲软，归 因于黄金价格上涨和消费者情绪低迷。 WGC的数据显示，截至今年10月23日，黄金价格达到 2,736.45美元/盎司，比2023年10月24日的1963.65美元/盎 司上涨了40%。 WGC在今年第二季度《全球黄金需求趋势报告》中称，全 球需求同比下降了19%，其中以中国的降幅最大(35%)，而印 度则下跌了17%。WGC将其描述为“2020年以来最疲软的第 二季度，该季度是受疫情影响最严重的时期”。上半年的黄 金珠宝需求同比下跌了10%。 香港地区的珠宝零售销售同样失去了初期的光彩，2024年 上半年录得12.8%的跌幅，主因是消费模式转变和港元走强。 中国的珠宝销售额同样下降，9月份同比下跌了7.8%，而 在2024年首三季度的销售额则同比下跌3.1%，反映在经济 持续低迷的情况下，国内需求疲软。 钻石行业受到的打击尤为严重，戴比尔斯2024年中期业 绩显示，毛坯钻石销售额从2023年6月的25亿美元下降至20 亿美元，跌幅达20%。 戴比尔斯以市场持续供过于求为由，将2024年8月和10 月的看货会合并。 调整年世界钻石交易所联合会(WFDB)主席Yoram Dvash认 为，2024年是钻石业过去三四十年来最具挑战性的年份之 一，全球市场都感受到了供应过剩等各种困难。 中国是亚洲钻石公司的主要市场，其不确定性也抑制了 全球需求。 Dvash补充道：“钻石需求整体下降。在包括美国和澳大 利亚在内的一些主要市场，培育钻石销售的增加，对天然钻 石业务带来了影响。” 高级珠宝商Varsha Inc的副主席Nishith Mehta表示，市 场对天然钻石的需求减少导致价格和销售量双双下降。培 育钻石首饰正逐渐成为主流，不仅在婚嫁首饰类别，在其他 首饰品类也受到青睐。他续说：“这种变化比预期更快，特别 是培育钻石的价格正在迅速下滑。” 国际有色宝石协会(ICA)主席Damien Cody指，2024年奢 侈品需求低迷，对珠宝供应链构成了负面影响。 Cody说：“虽然珠宝具有重要的情感、个人和文化意义， 但从本质上来讲，它是一种可自由支配的购买行为，因此其 销售很大程度上受经济状况所影响。通货膨胀和高利率可 能是消费者决定减少购买珠宝等非必要支出的原因之一。 他又指目前全球金融和政治环境“不利于珠宝首饰的强劲 销售”，消费者必须感到“自信和快乐”，才能使企业蓬勃发展。 Dvash则解释说，目前的不利因素是该行业“复苏过程” 的一部分。“这是痛苦的，但也是必要的。行业将从这些挑战 中成长。” 发展趋势 由于中国的需求呈下降趋势，美国仍然是钻石贸易的希 望。Dvash称，在该市场上最畅销的产品是F-H色和VS-SI净 度等级的圆形和花式切割钻石。 US$2,736.45 2,736.45美元 Price of gold per ounce as of October 23, 2024 as per data from the World Gold Council 根据世界黄金协会的数据，截止2024年10月23日为止的每盎司黄金价格
FOCUS 焦点 14 | JNA November/December 2024 市场可见钻石价格将渐趋稳定，部分原因是戴比尔斯开 始有限度地供应毛坯钻石，并整合了看货会。再者，业界也 开始合作，向年轻买家和新兴市场推广天然钻石。 而在彩色宝石业方面，Cody指精品和稀有彩色宝石的价 格依然居高不下。 鉴于疫情后宝石的产量回升，宝石的价格也慢慢转趋 稳定。Cody预计，2025年宝石价格将恢复到更合理的水平。 中国以外的市场也对彩色宝石呈现需求。他注意到，在 9月的香港地区珠宝展上，印度、台湾地区、韩国、新加坡、菲 律宾、印度尼西亚和澳大利亚的买家对彩色宝石的兴趣日 渐浓厚。 Cody补充道∶“毫无疑问，钻石需求的下降，导致彩色 宝石的需求增加。我们拭目以待，看看这种反常现象会持续 多久。” 在成品首饰方面，Varsha的Mehta指，网球手链、项链和 圈形耳环等经典款式是最畅销的产品。而黄金价格高昂，也 令精致、低调的珠宝也越来越受欢迎。铂金首饰及镶嵌培育 钻石和彩色宝石的首饰，也受到市场追捧。 Verragio Fine Jewelry是婚戒类产品的佼佼者，该公司的 创意总监Sophia Macris，指客户正在扩大购买珠宝首饰的 类别至其他高级珠宝。 她说：“我们确保产品的零售价介于750至1,500美元之 间，以满足那些从未购买过婚戒以外的高级珠宝的顾客的需 求。在这个价位，18K金珍珠和钻石吊坠表现非常出色。” 另外，Christian Tse Designs and Manufacturing Inc主 席Christian Tse指出，个性化和主题首饰的需求殷切，尤其 是在欧洲。买家还在搜罗更多创新设计，包括发夹和脚链。 他补充说，年轻一代的买家成为珠宝市场的主导力量， 让珠宝设计向更大胆、更具表现力和非传统的方向发展。 Tse说：“预计在未来十年内，他们的购买力将超越千禧 一代，这种转变带来了新的期望和偏好。品牌应该采用更大 胆的设计来迎合Z世代的品味，包括不对称造型、大胆的色 彩和独特的材料等元素。” Tse续指，加强可持续发展的举措和数字战略的投入，也 是2024年的大趋势。 其他市场 Mehta指出，虽然美国仍然是主要的增长动力，但印度在 2024年也成为重要的市场，有助平衡中国市场不活跃所带 来的挑战。 他说：“印度是一个新兴市场，潜力巨大，但总体而言，珠 宝业的大部分生意皆来自美国，只有一小部分来自亚洲。” 香港珠宝玉石厂商会会长兼大宝珠宝有限公司董事长 张敬猷建议，香港地区珠宝制造商可积极扩展至其他国际 市场如东盟和中东，以减低市场波动所引发的风险。 张敬猷说∶“这些地区对高级珠宝的需求持续上升，为 香港地区珠宝企业带来了新机遇。” 他补充指，疲弱的消费需求导致钻饰零售市场情绪低 迷。中游市场的交易量下降。与此同时，珍珠的价格已从高 峰回落至正常水平。 香港珠宝制造业厂商会主席叶美珠同样强调了适应市 场变化的必要性。 她说：“香港地区珠宝商不仅要适应新趋势，还要改进生 产和运营，使我们在国际市场上更具竞争力。越来越多的珠 宝公司开始使用3D打印和人工智慧等新技术来提高生产 效率。” 新的希望 WFDB的Dvash表示，毛坯钻石供应量的减少和戴比尔 斯削减看货会的决定，为钻石贸易带来了正面的发展。 全行业营销企划也为推动市场需求发挥关键作用，特别 是由戴比尔斯和天然钻石协会(NDC)主导的营销活动，有助 激发消费者对钻石的渴求。WFDB则正在与上海钻石交易所 合作，以促进中国对钻石的需求。 Dvash称：“复苏将是渐进式的，但我们希望在即将到来 的美国假日旺季看到更积极的趋势。我相信我们将迎接一 个优于预期的圣诞节日，以及前景乐观的2025年。” ICA的Cody也表达了同样的乐观情绪，他补充指，预计 财政困难在2025年将会缓解，而在此期间美国大选也会结 束，这将为彩色宝石创造一个更加繁荣和充满信心的零售 环境。 Verragio的Macris则认为，在黄金价格飞涨的情况下，黄 金的内在吸引力将为珠宝行业提供支持。2008年金融危机 爆发后，黄金价格也一路飙升，各品牌纷纷采用替代材料来 应对危机。 Macris说：“一位喜爱18K金首饰并珍视自己珠宝收藏的 高级珠宝客户，会因应金价上涨而进一步认识到黄金的价 值，而不是退而求其次使用更便宜的材料。目前，随着金价 的腾飞，我们有机会讲述黄金的内在价值，并强调高级珠宝 的恒久传承。”
DESIGN 设计 16 | JNA November/December 2024 Bangle in 18-karat gold with white and yellow diamonds by High End Collections Ltd High End Collections Ltd的白钻配黄钻18K金手镯 Music of Colours necklace in 18-karat gold with emeralds, sapphires, tsavorites and diamonds by Viktor Moiseikin. The necklace features Moiseikin's Waltzing Brilliance® technique. Viktor Moiseikin的Music of Colours 18K金项链 ， 镶嵌祖母绿、蓝宝石、 沙弗莱石和钻石。这条 项链采用了Moiseikin的 Waltzing Brilliance® 技术制成。 Louise earrings in gold by goldsmith and designer Brigitte Adolph who showcased the earrings in Vicenzaoro 2024 由金匠兼设计师Brigitte Adolph 设计的Louise金耳环，于2024年 维琴察珠宝展上展出 Intriguing shapes and captivating colours are the focal points of these jewellery marvels. Lending further sophistication and rarity to these pieces are designers’ meticulous attention to detail and devotion to the arts. Meanwhile, refined coloured gemstones and diamonds blend beautifully with organic shapes and forms, giving each jewellery piece a sinuous, dreamlike appeal. 梦幻珠宝乐园 Jewellery dreams fantasies and La Mer en Majesté ring with diamonds and a Philippine golden South Sea pearl centre gem by Jewelmer La Mer en Majesté珍珠钻石戒指，中央镶 有一颗菲律宾南洋金珠，Jewelmer出品
DESIGN设计 JNA November/December 2024 | 17 The 4th Dimensional Chain Ring in 18-karat rose gold with kunzite, onyx and diamonds from Austy Lee’s The Poetry of Art Collection The 4th Dimensional Chain 18K玫瑰金戒指，镶嵌紫锂辉石、黑玛瑙和钻 石，出自Austy Lee “艺术诗意”系列 Diamond and sapphire necklace with a tanzanite centre stone of 50 carats by Panchoo Jewels Panchoo Jewels的项链，镶有一 颗50克拉坦桑石主石，缀以钻石 和蓝宝石 Pandora Essence hoop earrings with treated freshwater pearls 潘多拉的Essence圈形耳环 ， 缀以经处理的淡水珍珠 动人的形态，绚丽的色彩，凝聚奇妙珠宝巨作。设计师 对细节的追求，对珠宝艺术的全心投入，令每件瑰宝 极尽精致与罕有。珍贵的彩色宝石与钻石颗颗璀璨， 造型浑然天成，散发婀娜梦幻之美。 Ring with a 29.05-carat Mozambique Paraiba tourmaline and diamond accents by Alexander Laut Co Ltd Alexander Laut Co Ltd的戒指，镶有一 颗29.05克拉莫桑比克帕拉伊巴碧玺， 并缀以多颗钻石 Cartier’s Love single earring in yellow gold adorned with 19 brilliant cut diamonds weighing a total of 0.34 carat 卡地亚Love单枚黄金 耳环，镶嵌19颗总重 0.34克拉的明亮式切 割钻石
DESIGN 设计 18 | JNA November/December 2024 Ring with a 9.02-carat purplish-red spinel centre gem from Tanzania, two mandarin garnets and brilliant cut diamonds in red gold by Gübelin 古宝琳红金戒指，中央镶嵌 一颗9.02克拉坦桑尼亚紫红 色尖晶石，配以两颗橘色石 榴石及多颗明亮式切割钻石 Leaf pendant with Argyle PinkTM diamonds by Linneys Linneys的阿盖尔粉红钻叶片 造型吊坠 Diamond bracelets by Crivelli Crivelli 的钻石手链 Coloured gemstone bangle by BSJ International Ltd BSJ International Ltd的彩色宝石手镯 Idyllium Floralis Eternelle rings by Buccellati 布契拉提的Idyllium Floralis Eternelle戒指
DESIGN设计 JNA November/December 2024 | 19 Bulgari Divas’ Dream earrings in rose gold set with rubellites, mother-ofpearl elements and pavé diamonds 宝格丽的Divas’ Dream玫瑰金耳环 ， 镶嵌金红石、珍珠母贝和密镶钻石 Double halo three-stone ring in platinum and 18-karat gold with a 2.50-carat fancy intense bluegreen cushion-cut diamond flanked by two radiantshaped diamonds with a unique fancy pinkish-purple hue by LJ West Diamonds Inc LJ West Diamonds Inc的双光环三钻铂金配18K金戒 指，镶嵌一颗2.50克拉浓彩蓝绿色枕形切割钻石，两侧 分别镶嵌一颗具有独特彩粉红紫色雷迪恩式切割钻石 Sapphire and diamond necklace and earrings by Gorgoglione Srl Gorgoglione Srl的蓝宝石配钻石 项链和耳环 Wulu Tag pendants in 18-karat yellow gold with black diamonds and onyx by Qeelin Qeelin的18K黄金Wulu Tag吊坠，镶嵌黑钻 和黑玛瑙 Drops of Light fancy vivid yellow pear-shaped diamond jacket earrings in 18-karat yellow gold and platinum by De Beers Jewellers Drops of Light梨形艳彩黄钻18K黄 金及铂金嵌套式耳环，De Beers Jewellers出品
DESIGN 设计 20 | JNA November/December 2024 Austy Lee, founder and designer of Austy Lee Art Jewellery 创办人兼设计师Austy Lee Caroline Chartouni, founder and designer of Caroline C创办人兼设计师 Caroline Chartouni Nisan Ong, founder and designer of Nisan Ong / Ong Jewelry Design Co Ltd 创办人兼设计师Nisan Ong Design is a critical component of the jewellery making process and often, it determines the appeal and saleability of a jewellery piece. For seasoned designers Austy Lee, Caroline Chartouni and Nisan Ong, the endeavour goes beyond business as designing jewellery is akin to breathing life into personal narratives, dreams and experiences. Here are their stories. Beginnings and aspirations Lee, founder and designer of Hong Kong-based Austy Lee Art Jewellery, has more than two decades of experience in the jewellery industry. He founded his own brand in 2017, armed with the skills he patiently honed over the years. “I worked with five different companies before I started my own brand,” explained Lee. “My vision was to create something ‘very Austy’ – a style that is my own and imbued with my personality and artistry.” To achieve this, Lee draws inspiration from religion, culture and his affinity for the arts to conceptualise his designs. Complex, edgy and multilayered are how one would describe Lee’s creations. Each piece features his geometric prowess and inventive use of colours as well as different techniques like enamelling and inlaying, to name a few. Lee is also fond of repurposing antique items to create an entirely new piece of jewellery, with the aim of preserving its unique attributes while giving it a modern twist. For her part, Chartouni of New York luxury jewellery brand Caroline C said her family legacy, which spans three generations in the fashion industry, provided a strong foundation to building her career in jewellery design. She also credits her education in interior and fashion design in Paris as instrumental to refining her artistic flair and deep admiration for coloured gemstones. “Creativity is deeply rooted in my DNA,” noted Chartouni. “My background in fashion is also reflected in my designs. Every piece radiates this strong synergy between fashion and jewellery.” | Bernardette Sto. Domingo 杜明高 | Three established jewellery designers share their adventures and triumphs over the years, which laid the foundation for their success. 三位知名珠宝设计师分享多年来的挑战与创举，如何为他们的骄人成就奠定基础。 Embarking on a creative journey 燃点创作旅途
DESIGN设计 JNA November/December 2024 | 21 Earrings by Caroline C 由Caroline C设计的耳环作品 Ring by Austy Lee 由Austy Lee设计的戒指作品 Brooch by Nisan Ong 由Nisan Ong设计的胸针作品 Meanwhile, art and nature are central to the one-ofa-kind designs of Ong, founder and designer of Thailandbased Nisan Ong / Ong Jewelry Design Co Ltd. An art fanatic and a devoted collector of paintings, sculptures and jewellery, he set out to make a difference in the world of jewellery design by offering unconventional motifs and colour combinations. “My strategy was to stand out,” noted Ong. “My experience as an art connoisseur became a defining point in my career as this helped infuse uniqueness to my creations.” A design must fulfil certain criteria for it to belong to the realm of “art jewellery,” according to Ong. These include having a strong concept; harmony in shape, colour and overall appeal; exceptional style and the use of a special technique. For instance, Ong is known for his clever use of gold and titanium in his nature-inspired pieces. Road to prominence Designers are becoming more innovative in their creations in an ever-evolving fine jewellery landscape. Similarly, end-consumers are increasingly gravitating towards more authentic and distinctive designs. According to Chartouni, creating truly exceptional pieces hinges upon the designer’s ability to convey the story behind each jewellery piece. And this starts with effective communication. “Listen to what your clients want,” she said. “I ask them what the piece is for and if they want to keep it simple or make a statement. That is where the story begins.” Chartouni also found a niche, which catapulted her to fame: She was one of the very first designers to focus on the beloved Paraiba tourmaline. In fact, she is affectionately known in the trade as the “Queen of Paraiba.” She has also won numerous accolades, including the prestigious Spectrum Awards. Ong, for his part, has his own workshop in Bangkok – a renowned gemstone and jewellery manufacturing hub in Asia. “I started my workshop about 20 years ago. I only had one goldsmith back then. Now, I employ about 30 workers,” shared Ong. His bespoke designs are highly sought after among clients spanning major markets around the world. Some of his designs were auction pieces, including a pair of fancy sapphire and diamond earrings, which sold at Tiancheng International 2015; and a diamond and tsavorite garnet brooch in titanium, which was auctioned off at Bonhams in 2022. Meanwhile, Lee’s ascent to jewellery stardom was the fruit of dedication, hard work and consistency. Lee said, “It is important to always be in the know. I read a great deal of books about different cultures and history. I learn, I sketch and do research every day.” This tenacity extends to other aspects of the business, particularly his social media presence. Lee currently has 475,000 followers on Instagram where he actively posts pictures and videos of his latest creations. Each post is accompanied by a detailed narrative as to how the jewellery piece came to be, demonstrating the amount of research and effort that goes into designing a single jewellery piece. Social media is also a useful tool to connect and engage with next-generation clients, he added. While technological advancement is inevitable, Chartouni, Lee and Ong agreed that jewellery design remains a deeply personal endeavour, so handmade pieces will continue to find favour among today’s discerning buyers. However, taking advantage of innovative new techniques and combining these with contemporary design elements coupled with compelling storytelling are keys to longevity in the jewellery world, the designers said.
DESIGN 设计 22 | JNA November/December 2024 设计是珠宝制作的重要一环，往往对作品的吸引力和销路有直 接影响。设计师Austy Lee、Caroline Chartouni和Nisan Ong 从事珠宝业多年，积累了丰富的经验。对他们来说，珠宝设 计早已不仅为了商业经营，更像是为个人的人生故事、梦想和经历注入 生命。 非凡抱负 Austy Lee是中国香港品牌Austy Lee Art Jewellery的创办人，拥有20 多年从业经验，他在2017年创立了自家品牌，展现精湛工艺。 “创立品牌之前，我曾效力五家公司。”他说。“我希望创造出充满自 我个性和艺术风格的作品。” 他从宗教、文化和热爱的艺术汲取灵感，营造独一无二的概念。一系 列前卫作品既复杂且层次丰富。每件珠宝的几何美学别出心裁，并展现 创意用色，以及珐琅工艺和镶嵌等技巧。Lee也喜以古董旧物改造成全 新的珠宝作品，保留其特质的同时也赋予现代风格。 纽约奢华珠宝品牌Caroline C的Chartouni则表示，她的家族在时装界 显赫三代，为其珠宝设计事业奠定了扎实的基础。她亦曾于巴黎接受室内 和时装设计训练，有助于提升其艺术才华和对彩色宝石的欣赏眼光。 “创造力已深深植根于我的基因中。”Chartouni说。“我在时装界的 背景也反映在每件作品上，时尚与珠宝元素相辅相成。” 泰国Nisan Ong / Ong Jewelry Design Co Ltd的创办人兼设计师 Nisan Ong则视艺术和大自然为灵感泉源，创造独一无二的作品。他热 爱艺术，也是一位绘画、雕塑和珠宝收藏家，以非传统的图案和色彩组 合破旧立新。 “特立独行是我的作风。”Ong指出。“我在艺术鉴赏方面浸淫日广， 为作品注入了独特性。” Ong指出，一项设计必须满足某些条件才能归类为“艺术珠宝”，包括 表达出鲜明的概念、在形态、色彩和整体美学上达致和谐，以及展示出 独特的风格和特殊技术的应用。他的作品多以大自然为题材，并巧妙运 用黄金和钛。 卓尔不群 高级珠宝界不断演变，一众设计师因此力求创新。同样地，现今的终 端消费者也倾向选择独特的原创设计。 Chartouni指出，作品能否打动人心取决于设计师传达珠宝故事的能 力。一切始于积极的沟通。 “重点在于聆听客户的需求。”她说。“我会向他们了解作品的用途， 循着简洁或华丽夺目的方向进行设计。故事就是从这里开始。” Chartouni也找到属于自己的利基市场——她是帕拉伊巴碧玺珠宝 的设计先驱之一，更被誉为“帕拉伊巴女王”。此外，她还赢得了“光谱 奖”等无数业界殊荣。 Ong则在亚洲宝石及珠宝制造基地曼谷开设工作室。“我大约20年 前设立工作室，那时只有一名金匠，现在已有大约30名工人。” 他的客制化设计在全球主要市场备受追捧，也成为大型拍卖会的宠 儿。其彩蓝宝石和钻石耳环在2015年的天成国际拍卖会成交；另有一枚 钻石和沙弗莱石钛胸针，也在2022年邦瀚斯拍卖会上击槌售出。 而Lee则凭借努力不懈的精神，跻身星级珠宝设计师行列。他说：“不 断提升自己非常重要。我参阅了很多关于不同文化和历史的书籍，每天 都在学习、绘画草图和研究。” 这种积极的态度也延伸至业务的其他方面，特别是他在社交媒体上 的表现。他经常在Instagram上发布最新作品的照片和视频，目前已拥有 475,000名粉丝。 每篇贴文娓娓道出珠宝作品的故事，展示了他的研究和努力成果。 他补充说，社交媒体在与新一代客户建立联系和互动时发挥重要作用。 珠宝技术日新月异，但Chartouni、Lee和Ong一致认为，珠宝设计仍 然贵乎温度和质感，因此手工作品将继续受到优秀买家的好评。三位设 计师表示，将创新技术结合当代设计和扣人心弦的故事，是珠宝品牌长 远发展的关键。 Ring by Austy Lee 由Austy Lee设计的戒指作品 Ring by Caroline C 由Caroline C设计的戒指作品 Brooch by Nisan Ong 由Nisan Ong设计的胸针作品
DESIGN设计 JNA November/December 2024 | 23 “Khalifa” by Lungile Xhwantini, the winning jewellery piece in the professional category of PlatAfrica 2023 由Lungile Xhwantini设计的“Khalifa”，2023年PlatAfrica专业组获奖作品 Since the first discovery of platinum deposits in South Africa a century ago, the country has become a major player in the platinum sector. It is now witnessing growing market potential for locally crafted platinum jewellery – unique pieces imbued with deep-rooted traditional heritage yet pulsating with contemporary style. Platinum has become the metal of choice for South African jewellery designers due to its durability and resiliency, enabling them to push creative boundaries. “I love platinum because it is different and rare, and you can really test its limits,” said Lungile Xhwantini, who topped the professional category of PlatAfrica 2023, South Africa’s platinum jewellery design and manufacturing competition. Xhwantini started his own business in 2021 after honing his skills at The Platinum Incubator in Rustenburg, which helps budding entrepreneurs become platinum jewellery manufacturers and designers. His winning entry, “Khalifa,” is inspired by Dubai’s mesmerising architectural marvel, Burj Khalifa. “It is the tallest building in the world, flexible against the wind and a first of its kind. This is the essence I wanted to reflect in my creation – an exceptional piece that is resilient and flexible, mirroring the unique attributes of platinum,” explained Xhwantini. Jana Basson, who took first place in PlatAfrica 2023’s student category, shares a similar affinity for the metal. A native of Otsuern in the Western Cape, Basson is currently studying jewellery design and manufacturing at university. “I have worked with silver, gold and platinum, and I have to say that I prefer platinum. Its tenacity allows me to create different textures and layers, which can be as thin or as thick as I envision. I also like its shiny finish. All in all, platinum enables me to realise my design ideas easier,” Basson explained. Texture is a signature feature of Basson’s designs. “You can see various finishings, surfaces and layers, as well as movements in my creations,” she said. | Sharon Kwok 郭芷雯 | As South Africa is a major source of platinum, its local jewellery designers are showcasing a modern take on platinum jewellery, creating versatile and fashionable pieces that appeal to both domestic and global markets. 南非是铂金的主要产地，当地的珠 宝设计师锐意创作具现代风格的铂金珠宝，款式时尚百搭，以吸引国内外市场的目光。 SOUTH AFRICAN Contemporary platinum jewellery 当代南非铂金首饰
DESIGN 设计 24 | JNA November/December 2024 Trending designs According to Basson, Mother Nature is her source of inspiration. This is evident in her award-winning piece at PlatAfrica 2023, which had “Emergence” as theme. “I interpreted the theme as a metamorphosis. People have varying interpretations of this piece; they may see it as an armadillo, a scorpion or a rattlesnake,” Basson said. “It is a versatile piece that can be worn as both a bracelet and a necklace. Versatility remains highly favoured in the market.” Meanwhile, Xhwantini focuses on developing jewellery pieces tailored to consumer demand. “I realised that if a design comes with a compelling story, it resonates more with buyers,” he said. “I want to create something that would make people love platinum and make them understand that platinum is as rare and unique as every human being.” According to Fahmida Smith, Principal Market Development of Anglo American Platinum, which organises PlatAfrica, consumer preferences are shifting toward lightweight, cost-effective yet elaborate and elegant designs. "Platinum jewellery, unlike those in other metals, does not scratch easily nor lose its colour, making it a nice heirloom piece that one can hand down from generation to generation. People are appreciating platinum jewellery from this perspective,” she added. Market development With two separate categories for professional jewellery designers and students or apprentices, PlatAfrica plays an important role in fostering innovative design and manufacturing expertise in the South African jewellery industry while promoting local talents internationally. Smith told JNA that the competition aims to address three challenges in South Africa’s platinum jewellery manufacturing sector: Limited access to platinum, craftsmanship development and access to market. By providing participants with platinum, PlatAfrica gives them the opportunity to work with the precious metal and refine their skills. “As the premium market development initiative for Anglo American Platinum, PlatAfrica is not confined to the South African industry. We aim to achieve global impact,” Smith said. “It is important for us to get South African platinum jewellery on the world stage.” Global audience To raise the international presence of South African platinum jewellery, PlatAfrica established an online sales platform and conducted live auctions and global showcases. In addition, winners in both the professional and student categories have the opportunity to manufacture their capsule collections for inclusion in the PlatAfrica collection, which will be available for sale in overseas markets. “We are trying to bring a commercial element to the competition so designers could have access to international markets,” Smith explained. “Last year, we piloted capsule collections inspired by the statement pieces created by some of the winners of the 2023 professional category, targeting the US, European, Japanese and Indian markets.” PlatAfrica worked with Platinum Guild International (PGI®) to develop design briefs and themes for the annual competition. Participants are expected to create a one-of-akind statement piece accordingly. Smith said the brief and theme are decided based on market research to ensure they align with prevailing trends. Designers are however welcome to incorporate African cultural elements or aesthetics into their work. The theme for the 2024 edition, “Legacy and beyond”, celebrates the 25th anniversary of PlatAfrica and the 100th anniversary of the discovery of platinum in South Africa, highlighting the history of the metal. “This year, we saw a significant increase in both the quality and number of entries – 25 per cent more than the 2023 edition,” Smith said. She also noted growing market interest in information on the provenance of materials and responsible sourcing. PlatAfrica is thus piloting a digital passport for its capsule collections. Buyers will be able to access details of the jewellery piece, including design inspiration, metal, materials and origins. Jana Basson Fahmida Smith, Principal Market Development of Anglo American Platinum 英美铂业(Anglo American Platinum)市场开发部主管Fahmida Smith Jewellery set by Lungile Xhwantini 由Lungile Xhwantini设计的首饰套装
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