MARKET WATCH 市场观察 JNA May/June 2024 | 41 美国珠宝零售业百花齐放。大型零售商Signet 旗下拥有Zales、Kay Jewelers、Blue Nile和 JamesAllen.com等多个品牌，在截至2023年1月 28日的2023财年，其北美销售额达到73亿美元。另外，独立 零售商则包括形形色色的单一商店和专营零售连锁店。 美国经济分析局的数据显示，2023年的整体行业收入达 到803.1亿美元，低于2022年的817.8亿美元。 《JNA亚洲珠宝》与多家美国珠宝零售商进行访谈，深 入了解这个庞大的市场。 Having market exclusivity is equally important alongside longstanding relationships, Broadbent of Clarkson Jewelers said. Meanwhile, Eisen said she looks for shared values in suppliers who do not sell directly to the public online or have competing showrooms. Rafferty also seeks suppliers with shared values and offers an example of industry cooperation. Recently, a large corporation bought a high-end gold chain supplier and laid off most of the staff. Since this left the area grossly underserved for these products, a small group formed Noble Chain, and re-hired the previous workers, sustaining positive and long-standing relationships. A common thread among these retailers was optimism for the industry that they love, one that provides products symbolising meaningful moments in their customers’ lives. The US jewellery retail sector is dynamic and ever evolving, adapting to the challenges and opportunities that will allow it to thrive in the years to come. 满足消费者需求 德州Susan Eisen Fine Jewelry的老板Susan Eisen表示， 各种黄金首饰的受欢迎程度正在提升，订婚戒指也不例外。 钻石产品非常畅销，而混有黑白色内含物的“椒盐钻”(salt and pepper diamond)则因其独特性而引起消费者的兴趣。 彩色宝石方面则包括不对称形状的宝石和混搭款式，如 深青色磷灰石配绿松石或黑玛瑙配椒盐钻。原创设计和不 规则切割的钻石和宝石，需求同样凌厉。 Lee Michaels Fine Jewelry的主席Chad Berg也观察 到黄金需求的增长。钻石方面，网球手链和项链也深受追 捧。Berg表示：“钻石项链不再只专属晚间场合，每天都可以 佩戴。” 其他畅销产品包括混合不同形状的钻石首饰、蝴蝶蜜蜂 等造型的大自然风格作品，还有易于佩戴和可伸展的手链 和戒指。Lee Michaels Fine Jewelry在路易斯安那州、密西西 比州、德州和新墨西哥州经营10家分店。 1) Susan Eisen notes an increase in demand for original diamond jewellery as in these earrings, designed by Eisen, and worn by actress Haley Lu Richardson. (Photo: The Natural Diamond Council and Susan Eisen Fine Jewelry); 2) Heather Ingraham cited rising demand for bridal jewellery in yellow gold. (Photo credit: The 1916 Company); 3) Yellow gold and stackable bracelets are on-trend, according to Colleen Rafferty. (Photo credit: Christensen & Rafferty, Instagram) 1) Susan Eisen指出，市场对原创钻石首饰的需求有所增加，这款耳环由Eisen 设计，并由女演员Haley Lu Richardson佩戴展示 (图：天然钻石协会及Susan Eisen Fine Jewelry); 2) 经典款式依然引领潮流，但Heather Ingraham也留意到黄金婚庆首饰的需求正不断上升 (图：The 1916 Company); 3) Colleen Rafferty指出，层叠式黄金手链特别受欢迎 (图：Christensen & Rafferty, Instagram) 1 3 2
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