MARKET WATCH 市场观察 38 | JNA May/June 2024 The US jewellery retail sector encompasses a range of businesses. There is Signet, owner of multiple brands such as Zales, Kay Jewelers, Blue Nile and JamesAllen.com, among others, with its North American sales reaching US$7.3 billion for its fiscal year 2023 ending January 28, 2023. On the other end of the spectrum are independents, comprising single stores and specialty retail chains of varying sizes. Overall, industry revenues reached US$80.31 billion in 2023, down from US$81.78 billion in 2022, according to the US Bureau of Economic Analysis. JNA sat down with various US jewellery retailers to gain insight into this vast and thriving market. What consumers want According to Susan Eisen, owner of Texas-based Susan Eisen Fine Jewelry, yellow gold is steadily rising in popularity across the board, even for engagement rings. Diamonds are big sellers, with salt and pepper diamonds attracting interest for their uniqueness. In the coloured gemstone category, asymmetrical pieces are on-trend as well as mixed-and-matched gems like teal apatite with turquoise or black onyx with salt and pepper diamonds. Demand is likewise strong for original designs and irregular cuts in diamonds and coloured gems. Chad Berg, president of Lee Michaels Fine Jewelry, also observed increased demand for yellow gold. In terms of diamonds, he said | Cynthia Unninayar | Evolving consumer demand as well as mounting influence of younger buyers on design and business trends are leading the US jewellery retail sector into new paths of growth. 消费者需求不断转变，加上年轻买家对设计和业界潮流 的影响力日增，正在引领美国珠宝零售业走上崭新道路。 美国珠宝零售新潮流 Shifting tides in US JEWELLERY RETAIL 1) Nature-inspired trends are noted by Chad Berg, as exemplified by this gold and diamond bee pendant. (Photo: Lee Michaels Fine Jewelry); 2) All retailers interviewed in this story are active on social media. Todd Broadbent animates Clarkson Jewelers’ social media page with videos taken at trade shows and other events with his ‘Todd Talk’ series. Shown here, he is walking around Luxury 2023, with Norman Silverman jewellery as his first ‘Talk.’ (Photo: Clarkson Jewelers, Instagram); 3) One thing Todd Broadbent looks for in suppliers is market exclusivity when it comes to other retailers, like Clarkson Jewelers has with David Yurman, for example. (Photo: Clarkson Jewelers, Instagram); 4) The increasing popularity of yellow gold, combined with unusual shapes of coloured gems are captured in these 18-karat gold pendants with smoky quartz and topaz accented with diamonds by award-winning designer Susan Eisen. (Photo: Susan Eisen Fine Jewelry) 1) Chad Berg在 访谈中提及以大自然为灵感的珠宝潮流，图中为一款蜜蜂造型镶钻黄金吊坠。(图：Lee Michaels Fine Jewelry); 2) 所有受访零售商均活跃 于社交媒体。Clarkson Jewelers总经理Todd Broadbent在该店的社交网站推出Todd Talk系列，展示他在贸易展览和其他活动所拍摄的影 片。图中他正在参观2023年Luxury展览，以及介绍Norman Silverman的珠宝; 3) Todd Broadbent在物色供应商时，会特别针对其市场独有 优势，如Clarkson Jewelers与David Yurman建立的合作关系就是上佳例子。(图：Clarkson Jewelers, Instagram); 4) 以黄金搭配形状独特的 彩色宝石，在美国市场日益普及，图为得奖设计师Susan Eisen设计的18K金吊坠，镶嵌烟晶、托帕石及钻石。(图：Susan Eisen Fine Jewelry) 1 2
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