SPOTLIGHT 市场聚焦 32 | JNA May/June 2024 宝石和珠宝业界的可持续发展进程，在疫情期间 开始全速推动，并激发了大众对环境、社会和治 理(ESG)的意识。不过，有些公司其实早已确立相 关的宗旨。《JNA亚洲珠宝》探讨两家制造商的可持续实践。 绿色愿景 成立于2000年的Jewelarc International Ltd在2018年已 经踏上了可持续发展之路，并在疫情前后致力提升成效。 这家泰国珠宝商的产品非常多样化，涵盖高级珠宝品牌 的订制宝石首饰，以至量产方晶锆石银耳环等。其著名作品 为镶嵌600克拉坦桑石的Thalassa项链，以及Zimbaqua品牌 的海蓝宝石首饰，其原石来自全球第一个由女性经营的海 蓝宝石矿场。 执行总监Matthew Triglone称：“我们从一开始就相当注 重环境足迹问题，并意识到对地球的影响。因此，可持续发 展于我们来说是非常自然的一步，也是企业理念的基石。” Jewelarc的无塑料厂房偌大宽敞，设有绿化区、户外活 动空间和员工休息区。该公司评估了其电耗量后，在厂房预 留了土地种植树木作为固碳措施。此外，所有货物均采用家 庭可堆肥包装物料而非生物塑胶，就算进入垃圾填埋场，也 将于8到12周内完全分解，不会对环境构成影响。 Consumers are increasingly seeking sustainable options, he noted, leading the trade to gravitate towards suppliers that could provide such products. “This push towards sustainability is largely consumer-driven, particularly in key markets such as the US and Europe,” Kothari added. A member of the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) since 2012 under its former name Fine Jewellery Manufacturing Ltd, the company is one of the first three factories in Asia to be RJC-certified for the Chain of Custody (COC) standard. Trade status While sustainability is gaining ground in the jewellery industry, Triglone of Jewelarc finds progress to be slow. He debunked commonly held notions that sustainable practices are an expensive endeavour. “There are no additional charges to being sustainable hence there are no costs to be passed on to customers, making your products more expensive,” he disclosed. “Sustainability is a mindset though. More than obtaining bureaucratic certifications, it is informing the market that you are fully accountable for your impact on people and the planet.” Fine’s Kothari, however, admits to a cost to sustainability – recycled metals do cost more. “But this is a call we have made, and we are willing to absorb this cost where needed. As a factory, we produce jewellery in recycled metals – there is no way around this,” he said. Triglone also has mixed feelings about the industry’s dedication to eco-friendly practices. For starters, obtaining clear and comprehensive information about raw materials has been close to impossible, with most online data being out of date and suppliers often half-serious when responding to sustainable enquiries, he said. The evolution of organisations such as Provenance Proof and SMO has thus been game changers for companies that aim to evolve in an ecologically sustainable way, according to Triglone. In addition, government agencies, regional gem and jewellery associations, standards-setting organisations and sustainability bodies should work together to improve living, educational and health conditions in smaller mining communities to truly make an impact. Companies seeking to sincerely embrace responsible manufacturing practices must also fully commit to the cause. “Do not join standards-setting organisations to get their logo on your letterhead. Look at the product category you are in and start reviewing your supply chain. Ask questions; do the research,” Triglone shared. “Trust those you work with on all sides of the transaction. It does not cost more to be responsible.” Zimbaqua aquamarine necklace by Jewelarc International Ltd Jewelarc International Ltd旗下品牌Zimbaqua海蓝宝石项链 There are no additional charges to being sustainable hence there are no costs to be passed on to customers, making your products more expensive. Sustainability is a mindset though. More than obtaining bureaucratic certifications, it is informing the market that you are fully accountable for your impact on people and the planet. – Matthew Triglone, managing director, Jewelarc International Ltd
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