JNA March/ April 2024

JNA March/April 2024 | 9 FOCUS 焦点 models have become essential. Van der Veken added, “While supply chain sustainability is intricate, deeper collaboration and sharing of best practices can drive significant progress in sustainability dimensions.” Among WJI 2030’s significant achievements in 2023 were the creation of a multi-sectoral governance framework, obtaining 15 member-companies’ commitment to ScienceBased Targets Initiative (SBTi), and the launch of the Nature Primer, which will eventually lead to an industry-level Nature Positive Roadmap containing concrete steps on how the industry can contribute to a Nature Positive world. The group also introduced a case study on genderresponsive procurement in partnership with UN Women and produced the Human Rights Navigator to provide practical solutions for members navigating pertinent regulatory systems. “Recognising the importance of small and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs) in responsible supply chains, we plan to pilot the HR Navigator with suppliers in the coming months,” said Van der Veken. To ensure credible reporting and prevent greenwashing, Van der Veken said WJI 2030 formulated Key Performance Indicators (KPIs) based on established sustainability reporting frameworks such as the Taskforce on NatureRelated Financial Disclosures, the Global Reporting Initiative (GRI) and SBTi. Responsible jewellery RJC has also made significant strides in making sustainability more mainstream. In June 2023, RJC, GIA and the Mineralogical & Geological Museum of Harvard hosted a responsible jewellery event titled, “State of the Art Summit," which brought together experts from MIT and Harvard, alongside artists, RJC members and other industry players. RJC Executive Director Melanie Grant shared, “We reached several conclusions on how to manage energy transition around supply chains. One requirement is communicating the importance of responsible practices in the jewellery trade more efficiently through increased storytelling, education and engagement around challenges and opportunities, especially for young people who will inherit the industry.” RJC will also host a series of networking events for its members to promote and discuss the business of jewellery and how it can move forward with purpose and vision. “The concept of sustainable jewellery has come a long way in the last 16 years, and we work hard to constantly evolve with and lead the market,” Grant remarked. “We are also working on an entirely new standard focused on lab-grown materials.” Sustainable mining communities Challenges in the supply chain are likewise being addressed. Organisations like DDG and ICA, which established the Gems Keep Giving initiative, aim to enhance and empower local mining communities. These societies, primarily located in developing countries, depend heavily on artisanal mining and cutting for their economic well-being. Often centred around gem deposits, community members participate in these activities to supplement income derived from agriculture and livestock. ICA’s Gems Keep Giving helps mining communities prosper and develop in a “safe, sustainable and inclusive” environment. With ICA membership spanning 47 countries, the organisation leverages this extensive reach to strategically identify areas where it can maximise its impact and contribute most effectively. Douglas Hucker, CEO of ICA, said, “Our goal extends beyond providing short-term benefits to these communities. Instead, we aim to collaboratively work with community members, miners, cutters and families, empowering them to take ownership of these efforts and actively engage in sustainable developments that bring lasting improvements.” The programme is focused on building infrastructure that can endure and thrive beyond initial investments. Its inaugural project in the Kamtonga Village in Kenya, Africa provides sustainable clean water supply for drinking, cooking, washing and irrigation purposes. Hucker shared, “One of our objectives is to introduce Gems Keep Giving to the broader industry, particularly targeting retailers interested in incorporating our sustainability narrative into their businesses.” For its part, global non-profit DDG supports initiatives that develop and empower people in diamond-producing communities in Africa, particularly Botswana; India and, starting this year, the Northwest Territories of Canada. It also assists families of miners in accessing education and career opportunities. In 2021, it launched the DDG Entrepreneurship Grant Programme and has since put 725 entrepreneurs through an extensive programme led by leading business moguls and professors. “Through this, we further supported 30 entrepreneurs with grants ranging from US$5,000 to US$20,000, fostering business growth and community advancement,” said DDG President Kathy Corey. One of the grant recipients is Tshireletso, a dynamic young farmer from Botswana who has left an indelible impact on her nation's agricultural landscape. Iris van der Veken (right), executive director of Watch & Jewellery Initiative 2030 (WJI 2023) and Anino Emuwa, founder of 100 Women of Davos and board member of WJI 2030 钟表与珠宝2030倡议(WJI 2023)执行董 事Iris van der Veken和达沃斯论坛“100女性” 创始人兼WJI 2030董事会成员Anino Emuwa

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