SPOTLIGHT 市场聚焦 20 | JNA March/April 2024 Melanie Grant joined the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) in January 2023, taking on the gargantuan task of righting the association after a tumultuous year that saw an exodus of members – and its leadership – over perceived inaction on Alrosa’s membership after the outbreak of the Ukraine-Russia war in February 2022. Grant, a jewellery journalist and curator, immediately moved to ensure RJC could act efficiently and effectively on issues that could create reputational risk. She also facilitated greater dialogue around the sustainability of jewellery at a time when the Environmental, Social and Governance (ESG) conversation reached fever pitch. Last July, RJC launched its firstever ESG toolkit to help members strengthen their sustainability agenda by explaining prevailing ESG reporting frameworks and standards in the jewellery market. “Modern consumers are increasingly holding brands accountable for their global impact, actively engaging with them to understand transparency and the positive impacts of sustainability,” Grant noted. “Consumer confidence is critical for the industry. RJC standards and certification allow member companies to demonstrate their commitment to responsible business and sustainability.” RJC will introduce its first standard for lab-grown diamonds this year after extensive consultation with the trade. Grant also cites diversity, inclusion, the impact of climate on supply In May 2023, De Beers Group Senior Vice President of Corporate Affairs Feriel Zerouki took over the reins of the World Diamond Council (WDC) from industry luminary Edward Asscher. By then, she had under her belt three years as WDC vice president and almost two decades as a leading advocate for enhancing standards and driving progress within the diamond industry in her various roles at De Beers. Aside from building a set of ethical standards covering business, social and environmental issues, Zerouki had helped initiate Tracr to provide traceability and provenance for the diamond sector and GemFair to support the formalisation of the artisanal diamond mining sector. She now brings her drive for fairness and social justice in the diamond trade to a wider platform, noting that WDC can play a uniting role within the Kimberley Process (KP), partly since its membership crosses geographic and industry lines. The first woman to lead the council, she pursues the longstanding WDC campaign to expand the definition of conflict diamonds. Also foremost on her agenda are responsible Environmental, Social and Governance (ESG) practices in the jewellery supply chain. Her continued focus on the plight of artisanal miners and independent diamond traders is informed by her pledge that “no one in the diamond trade is left behind.” In a WDC statement, Zerouki said, "Our underlying belief is that we must do all that is necessary to defend the integrity of our supply chain, ensuring The gem and jewellery industry is witnessing a changing of the guards, with a fresh crop of younger yet equally determined, committed, proven and highly capable industry players taking on key leadership roles in trade organisations. Notably encouraging is the growing number of women who are occupying top industry positions and playing a pivotal role in setting the agenda. 在2023年5月，戴比尔斯集团企业事 务高级副主席Feriel Zerouki从业内专 家Edward Asscher手中接过了世界钻 石理事会(WDC)的繮绳。 当时，她已担任WDC副主席三年， 并在戴比尔斯担任各项领导职务近20 年，致力提高钻石业的标准，并推动钻 石业发展。除了建立一套涵盖商业、社 会和环境问题的道德标准外，Zerouki 还帮助建立了钻石业可追溯平台 Tracr和支持手工钻石开采行业正规 化的Gem Fair。现在，她将自己对钻石 公平贸易和社会正义的追求延伸至 更广阔的舞台上。她指出，WDC可以 在金伯利进程(KP)中发挥团结作用， 部分原因是其成员跨越了地域和行 业界限。 作为首位领导该理事会的女性，她 秉承WDC致力扩大冲突钻石的定义的 使命。在她推行的议程中，珠宝供应链 中负责任的环境、社会和治理(ESG)实 践也是重中之重。她持续关注手工矿 工和独立钻石贸易商的困境，并承诺 “不撇下钻石贸易中的任何人”。 在世界钻石理事会的一份声明 中，Zerouki说：“我们深信我们必须竭 尽全力捍卫供应链的完整性，确保天然 钻石无论在何处开采、回收、加工或交 易，都能发挥其推动可持续经济和社会 发展的潜力。”WDC的成员在2023年激 增了62%，凸显了理事会在现今钻石 市场中的相关性和重要性。 that natural diamonds meet their potential as an agent for sustainable economic and social development, wherever they are mined, recovered, processed or traded." WDC membership ballooned by 62 per cent in 2023, underscoring the council’s relevance and importance in the global diamond trade. Feriel Zerouki President, World Diamond Council 世界钻石理事会主席
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