MARCH/APRIL 2024 ISSUE #444 US$15 SUSTAINABILITY matters 可持续发展破浪前行 New era of leaders Bidding on jewellery 新世代领袖 竞拍珠宝的璀璨潜力
CONTENTS Issue #444 | MARCH/APRIL 2024 22 Ruby Autore: Fostering a culture of excellence 培养追求卓越的文化 24 Dhairya Virani: Unveiling glittering possibilities 创造璀璨机遇 26 Smit Virani: Mastering change management 游刃自如的管理大师 28 Harsh Maheshwari: Brilliant and innovative leadership 尽显创新的领袖风彩 30 Jonathan Cheng and Terence Lee: A tale of two achievers 郑俊鸿和李小虎：两位成功人士的故事 32 Zulu Ghevriya: Vision and enterprise 愿景與企业 19 SPOTLIGHT 市场聚焦 19 New era of leaders 新世代领袖 16 DESIGN 设计 16 Contemporary masculinity 当代男士气概 8FOCUS 焦点 8 Sustainability matters in the jewellery trade 珠宝业的可持续进程 12 Recognising sustainability champions 表彰可持续发展倡导者
On the Cover 封面 Earring in 18-karat gold from the Hawaii Collection of Buccellati. Launched in 1932 by founder Mario Buccellati, the collection is inspired by the Hawaii welcome garland. Creations feature cascades of gold circles composed of gold wires twisted and hand-soldered together to create a movable mesh. 布契拉提Hawaii系列的18K金耳环。该系列由创始人Mario Buccellati于1932年推 出，灵感源自夏威夷的迎宾花环。作品以一串串的金色圆环为特色，这些圆环由金 线组成，每根金线都是经手工焊合而成，环环相扣形成可活动的网状结构。 Digital version 电子版： https://news.jewellerynet.com/en/publications 38 MARKET INTELLIGENCE 市场情报 38 Gold shines brighter in China 黄金闪耀中国珠宝市场 36 PERSPECTIVE 精辟视野 36 Advocating for jewellery education in a modern world 现代珠宝教育先驱 42 Resiliency and innovation fortifying Türkiye’s jewellery sector 土耳其珠宝业坚毅创新 46 Jewellery auction roundup 2023: Radiance and rarity fuel solid sales 2023年珠宝拍卖总结 ： 珍稀璀璨珠宝推动稳健销售
Every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information in JNA. However, the publication of such information is at the sole discretion of the publisher. The publisher and the editorial team shall not be held responsible or in any way held liable for any errors, omissions or inaccuracies in this publication, or for any consequences arising therefrom. The contents of this publication are protected by copyright and cannot be reproduced, photocopied, transmitted or posted in any form without the prior written consent of the publisher. 本得公以司任已何尽方力式确翻保印《、J仿N制A亚或洲转珠载宝本》刊所物刊任登何的部内份容之正文确字无或误图。片如。因错漏而引致任何损失，本公司概不负责。本公司保留刊登有关资料的一切权利。版权所有，如未获得本公司事先之书面允许，不 Printed by Asia One Printing Limited,13/F, Asia One Tower, 8 Fung Yip Street, Chai Wan, Hong Kong. 印刷商: 宏亚印务有限公司香港柴湾丰业街8号宏亚大厦13楼 Associate Publisher & Editor-in-Chief Olivia Quiniquini 副出版人及主编 程爱莉 EDITORIAL 编辑部 Deputy Editor Bernardette Sto. Domingo 副编辑 杜明高 Assistant Editor Sharon Kwok 助理編輯 郭芷雯 Assistant Digital Product Manager William Yick 助理数码产品经理 易昌耀 ADVERTISING 广告部 Assistant Director Christine Sinn 区域营业总监 冼蕙珠 Sales Manager Kitman Chan 销售经理 陈洁雯 MARKETING 市場推广部 Senior Marketing & Communications Manager Ronny Pang 高级市场及传讯经理 彭秋影 Assistant Marketing & Communications Manager Monica Kwok 市場及傳訊助理經理 郭君寧 Marketing & Communications Executive Vincent Wong 市场及传讯主任 黄志伟 PRODUCTION 制作部 Production Manager Jennifer So 制作部经理 苏丽娟 Senior Designer Eva Kam 高级设计师 甘铭灵 Assistant Event and Media Service Manager Bonnie Law 助理项目及媒体服务经理 罗凤伦 ADVERTISING REPRESENTATIVES 广告代理 China 中国: 广州代表处 胡淑晶 | Tel 电话: (86) 20 8666 0158 Email 电邮: [email protected] Germany 德国: Liz Dobelmann | Tel 电话: (49) 721 384 1881 Email 电邮: [email protected] Italy 意大利: Mauro Arati | Tel 电话: (39) 02048517853 Email 电邮: [email protected] Japan 日本: Nobuaki Nito | Tel 电话: (81) 3 52961020 Email 电邮: [email protected] Taiwan 台湾: Rita Hung | Tel 电话: (886) 2 2738 3898 Email 电邮: [email protected] Thailand 泰国: Thitima Sriutharawong | Tel 电话: (66) 0 2 036 0500 Ext. 248 Email 电邮: [email protected] US 美国: Bonnie Chan | Tel 电话: (1) 347 906 4693 Email 电邮: [email protected] President & CEO - Asia Margaret Ma Connolly 亚洲主席及行政总裁 马颖 Senior Vice President - Asia David Bondi 亚洲高级副总裁 庞大为 Director of Jewellery Fairs Celine Lau 珠宝展览部总监 刘小雯 Published by Informa Markets 出版 17/F, China Resources Building, 26 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong 香港湾仔港湾道26号华润大厦17樓 Email 电邮: [email protected] JewelleryNet.com
FOCUS 焦点 8 | JNA March/April 2024 Sustainability considerations could somehow influence 20 per cent to 30 per cent of fine jewellery purchases by 2025, according to a McKinsey & Co report on the jewellery trade published in 2021. In fact, concerns over an impending climate crisis alongside evolving consumer preferences are driving gemstone and jewellery companies to rethink priorities and revisit business practices – all in the aim of embracing ecofriendly processes throughout the supply chain. Being sustainable can also help companies earn the trust of younger consumers. According to industry experts, leadership programmes can aid in spearheading Environmental, Social and Governance (ESG) strategies. Headlining sustainability initiatives in the jewellery sector are the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC), the International Colored Gemstone Association (ICA), Diamonds Do Good (DDG), Watch and Jewellery Initiative 2030 (WJI 2030) as well as the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), among others. Taking action Geneva-based WJI 2030, founded by luxury group Kering and Richemont-owned Cartier, brings together watch and jewellery brands, trade associations and key stakeholders to make impactful changes across three pillars: Climate resilience; biodiversity and nature; and inclusiveness. Currently with nearly 60 members, it is guided by the Ten Principles of the United Nations Global Compact and the 17 Sustainable Development Goals (SDG). Iris van der Veken, executive director of WJI 2030, explained, “As we step into 2024, the future emphasises integrity, transparency, traceability and circularity, which demands a collaborative mindset.” Belonging to an industry that is “deeply connected to beauty and emotions,” jewellers carry a dual responsibility: To nurture and to act, she noted. As such, rethinking the entire jewellery lifecycle, from design to aftercare, and exploring circularity in business | Isabella Yan | Conscious consumerism, the climate emergency and corporate accountability are fuelling the gem and jewellery industry’s drive towards a more sustainable path. JNA sits down with leading trade organisations that are actively pursuing Environmental, Social and Governance (ESG) initiatives. 消费意识抬 头、气候问题迫在眉睫，加上企业责任举足轻重，都在推动珠宝行业走上可持续发展之路。 《JNA亚洲珠宝》与遵循环境、社会和治理(ESG)方针的贸易组织进行了详细访谈。 matters in the jewellery trade 珠宝业的可持续进程 Kamtonga Project of the International Colored Gemstone Association’s Gems Keep Giving programme 国际有色宝石协会 Gems Keep Giving计划之Kamtonga矿区项目 (Photo credit 照片鸣谢：Jeffrey Post)
JNA March/April 2024 | 9 FOCUS 焦点 models have become essential. Van der Veken added, “While supply chain sustainability is intricate, deeper collaboration and sharing of best practices can drive significant progress in sustainability dimensions.” Among WJI 2030’s significant achievements in 2023 were the creation of a multi-sectoral governance framework, obtaining 15 member-companies’ commitment to ScienceBased Targets Initiative (SBTi), and the launch of the Nature Primer, which will eventually lead to an industry-level Nature Positive Roadmap containing concrete steps on how the industry can contribute to a Nature Positive world. The group also introduced a case study on genderresponsive procurement in partnership with UN Women and produced the Human Rights Navigator to provide practical solutions for members navigating pertinent regulatory systems. “Recognising the importance of small and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs) in responsible supply chains, we plan to pilot the HR Navigator with suppliers in the coming months,” said Van der Veken. To ensure credible reporting and prevent greenwashing, Van der Veken said WJI 2030 formulated Key Performance Indicators (KPIs) based on established sustainability reporting frameworks such as the Taskforce on NatureRelated Financial Disclosures, the Global Reporting Initiative (GRI) and SBTi. Responsible jewellery RJC has also made significant strides in making sustainability more mainstream. In June 2023, RJC, GIA and the Mineralogical & Geological Museum of Harvard hosted a responsible jewellery event titled, “State of the Art Summit," which brought together experts from MIT and Harvard, alongside artists, RJC members and other industry players. RJC Executive Director Melanie Grant shared, “We reached several conclusions on how to manage energy transition around supply chains. One requirement is communicating the importance of responsible practices in the jewellery trade more efficiently through increased storytelling, education and engagement around challenges and opportunities, especially for young people who will inherit the industry.” RJC will also host a series of networking events for its members to promote and discuss the business of jewellery and how it can move forward with purpose and vision. “The concept of sustainable jewellery has come a long way in the last 16 years, and we work hard to constantly evolve with and lead the market,” Grant remarked. “We are also working on an entirely new standard focused on lab-grown materials.” Sustainable mining communities Challenges in the supply chain are likewise being addressed. Organisations like DDG and ICA, which established the Gems Keep Giving initiative, aim to enhance and empower local mining communities. These societies, primarily located in developing countries, depend heavily on artisanal mining and cutting for their economic well-being. Often centred around gem deposits, community members participate in these activities to supplement income derived from agriculture and livestock. ICA’s Gems Keep Giving helps mining communities prosper and develop in a “safe, sustainable and inclusive” environment. With ICA membership spanning 47 countries, the organisation leverages this extensive reach to strategically identify areas where it can maximise its impact and contribute most effectively. Douglas Hucker, CEO of ICA, said, “Our goal extends beyond providing short-term benefits to these communities. Instead, we aim to collaboratively work with community members, miners, cutters and families, empowering them to take ownership of these efforts and actively engage in sustainable developments that bring lasting improvements.” The programme is focused on building infrastructure that can endure and thrive beyond initial investments. Its inaugural project in the Kamtonga Village in Kenya, Africa provides sustainable clean water supply for drinking, cooking, washing and irrigation purposes. Hucker shared, “One of our objectives is to introduce Gems Keep Giving to the broader industry, particularly targeting retailers interested in incorporating our sustainability narrative into their businesses.” For its part, global non-profit DDG supports initiatives that develop and empower people in diamond-producing communities in Africa, particularly Botswana; India and, starting this year, the Northwest Territories of Canada. It also assists families of miners in accessing education and career opportunities. In 2021, it launched the DDG Entrepreneurship Grant Programme and has since put 725 entrepreneurs through an extensive programme led by leading business moguls and professors. “Through this, we further supported 30 entrepreneurs with grants ranging from US$5,000 to US$20,000, fostering business growth and community advancement,” said DDG President Kathy Corey. One of the grant recipients is Tshireletso, a dynamic young farmer from Botswana who has left an indelible impact on her nation's agricultural landscape. Iris van der Veken (right), executive director of Watch & Jewellery Initiative 2030 (WJI 2023) and Anino Emuwa, founder of 100 Women of Davos and board member of WJI 2030 钟表与珠宝2030倡议(WJI 2023)执行董 事Iris van der Veken和达沃斯论坛“100女性” 创始人兼WJI 2030董事会成员Anino Emuwa
10 | JNA March/April 2024 FOCUS 焦点 Corey explained, “When she enrolled in our free entrepreneurship programme, she did not anticipate securing funding for her farm. She persevered through a rigorous 16-week business training, involving multiple interviews and business pitches.” Tshireletso received the grant in 2022. Her business, Erba Farms, began on the windowsill of her parents’ backyard. Today, it is present in over 25 supermarkets across Botswana, creating employment in her rural community. “These grants invest in local entrepreneurs who make a difference in their local communities. We cannot wait to see how these will impact individuals and communities in the Northwest Territories,” said Corey. ESG for smaller businesses More stringent regulations and rising expectations from consumers and investors underscore the imperative nature of sustainability reporting. Van der Veken remarked, “Sustainability reporting brings significant value to organisations of all sizes. With an increased focus on reporting across the value chain, SMEs, particularly mid-to-upstream SMEs, play a pivotal role in furthering transparency and providing valuable data.” As clamour for supply chain due diligence rises, SMEs will increasingly need to disclose ESG data to downstream buyers. Their contribution can significantly impact the development of a more responsible supply chain, she added. Meanwhile, supply chain due diligence requirements are also intensifying across jurisdictions, making it essential for organisations throughout the value chain to deliver comprehensive sustainability disclosures. Van der Veken said luxury brands are undergoing a paradigm shift, viewing sustainability as a strategic imperative, more than just a compliance measure. SMEs can do the same while focusing on prioritising disclosure of topics most relevant to their operations to effectively manage risk and showcase impact. SMEs can use industry standards like the WJI 2030 framework to ensure consistent reporting of KPIs across the board. As SMEs are at various stages of the sustainability reporting journey, it is also important to balance the disclosures of quantitative and qualitative KPIs to ensure that organisations are reporting information that is consistent and comparable, while effectively managing costs, she added. Smaller establishments can streamline their reporting processes by effectively leveraging technology services and platforms such as ESG Book, which is designed to assist enterprises on their sustainability reporting journey. “The ESG Book enables companies to be custodians of their own data, allowing them to publish and share their disclosures with investors and stakeholders,” noted Van der Veken. According to Corey, small businesses can achieve ESG goals by collaborating with organisations that provide feasible roadmaps for reaching these objectives. She said, “Many companies are already supporting some form of communitybuilding programmes around the areas where they do business. Communicating these initiatives to customers demonstrates the company's commitment to responsible practices aligned with shared values.” Grant, for her part, said sustainability in the jewellery industry is a mindset that leads to a set of actions such as applying due diligence, abiding by legislation and incorporating SDG goals into business strategies. “The first step is to simply start. Read, listen and learn. Join a scheme, talk to your suppliers and make your own unique contribution. The future of jewellery depends on it,” she said. 麦肯锡公司的2021年珠宝行业报告显示，到了 2025年，20%至30%的高级珠宝消费活动可能会 受到可持续发展考虑因素影响。 迫切的气候危机及消费者喜好之转变，无疑引起了一定 的担忧，但亦促使宝石和珠宝企业重新思考优先事项，并审 视其商业实践，以在整个供应链中注入环保元素。 而遵循可持续发展原则，还可以赢取年轻消费者的信任。 行业专家表示，领袖计划有助引领珠宝业实行环境、社 会和治理(ESG)策略。 提倡可持续发展的主要业界机构，包括责任珠宝业委 员会(RJC)、国际有色宝石协会(ICA)、Diamonds Do Good (DDG)、钟表与珠宝2030倡议(WJI 2023)，以及GIA美国宝石 研究院等。 业界付诸实行 WJI 2030以日内瓦为基地，由奢侈品集团开云集团和历 峰集团旗下的卡地亚创立。该计划汇聚手表和珠宝品牌、行 业协会和主要持份者，以在三个领域实现重大转变，包括气 候复原力、保护自然资源和促进包容性。 该计划目前有近60位成员，以联合国全球契约的十项原 则和17个可持续发展目标(SDG)为方针。 WJI 2030执行董事Iris van der Veken解释说：“2024伊 始，我们未来将更强调完整性、透明度、可追溯性和循环性， 这点需要业界共同协力才能达成。” 她指出珠宝行业“与美学和情感密切相关”，因此，业者 承担“培育和行动”的双重责任。同時，业界必须重新思考从 设计到售后服务的整个珠宝生命周期，并探索商业模式的 循环性。Van der Veken补充道：“虽然供应链的可持续元素 错综复杂，但若能推展更深入的合作和与同侪分享最佳实 践方针，就可以大力推动其进程。” WJI 2030在2023年取得的主要成就，包括创建多部门治 理框架、获得15家成员公司对科学基础减量目标倡议(SBTi) 作出承诺，以及推出《Nature Primer》，引导全行业迈向“自 然受益型”路线图，其中包含业界如何为“自然受益型”世界 作出贡献的具体步骤。 倡议小组还与联合国妇女署合作，推出了一项关于促 进性别平等采购的案例研究，并推出“人权导航”工具，为 Kamtonga Project of the International Colored Gemstone Association’s Gems Keep Giving programme 国际有色宝石协会Gems Keep Giving计划之Kamtonga矿区项目
FOCUS 焦点 JNA March/April 2024 | 11 希望了解相关监管系统的成员提供实用的解决 方案。Van der Veken表示：“我们意识到中小企业 (SMEs)在责任供应链中的重要性，计划在未来几个月 与供应商试行人权导航工具” 为了确保报告的可信度并防止“漂绿”行为，Van der Veken表示WJI 2030将根据“自然相关财务揭露”工作组、全 球报告倡议组织(GRI)和SBTi等公认的可持续发展报告框架 制定关键绩效指标(KPI)。 承担社会责任的珠宝 责任珠宝业委员会(RJC)在促进可持续发展成为主流 方面，也取得了重大成果。在2023年6月，RJC、GIA和哈佛 大学矿物学与地质博物馆举办了一场以责任珠宝为主题的 高峰会，名为“State of the Art Summit”。高峰会由三位女 性主持，云集了来自麻省理工学院和哈佛大学的专家、艺术 家、RJC成员和其他业者。 RJC执行董事Melanie Grant表示：“我们就如何管理供 应链周边的能源转型得出了一些结论。其中一项要求是增 加故事叙述、投放更多教育资源和提升参与度，在面临挑战 和机遇时更有效地传达珠宝行业负责任实践的重要性，尤 其是令继承该行业的年轻人了解其重点。” RJC还将为会员举办一系列社交联系活动，就珠宝贸易 进行推广和讨论，思考如何有目标和愿景地向前迈进。 “在过去16年里，可持续珠宝的概念已大为普及。我们 致力不断蜕变，引领市场发展。”Grant说。“我们也就着实验 室培育宝石制定全新标准。” 可持续采矿社区 供应链中的挑战也同样得到关注。DDG和ICA等组织发 起了Gems Keep Giving倡议，旨在提升不同采矿社群的生活 水平和自信。这些社群主要位于发展中国家，以手工采矿和 宝石切割为经济和生计命脉。参与计划的宝石社群，以农业 和畜牧业补助收入。 ICA的Gems Keep Giving倡议帮助采矿社区在“安全、可 持续和包容”的环境中增加收入和蓬勃发展。ICA的会员遍 布47个国家，因此能借助其广大的全球网络，策略性地在特 定地区发挥最大的影响力，并作出最有效的贡献。 ICA首席执行官Douglas Hucker表示：“我们的目标不仅 是为这些社区提供短期利益。相反，我们锐意与社区成员、 矿工、切割工和其家庭合作，使他们能够自主承担生计并积 极参与可持续发展，从而带来持久的改善。” 该计划的重点在于建立相关基础设施，在初始投资后能 够持续运营发展。在非洲肯尼亚的村落（Kamtonga Village) 的首个计划中，提供了可持续的洁净水源，供村民饮用、烹 煮、洗涤和灌溉。 Hucker分享道：“我们的目标之一是扩大Gems Keep Giving项目的受惠范畴，特别是有兴趣将我们的可持续发展 理念融入其业务的零售商。” 足迹遍及全球的非营利组织DDG，本身也非常支持各钻 石生产社区的发展和人民赋权，包括以博茨瓦纳为首的非 洲国家、印度，以及从今年起加入计划的加拿大西北地区， 同时协助矿工家庭获得教育和就业机会。 在2021年，它亦推出了DDG创业资助计划，在行业巨头 和大学教授的带领下为725名企业家提供支援。 DDG主席Kathy Corey称：“我们透过此项举措，进一步为 30名企业家提供了5,000至20,000美元的资助，促进业务增 长和社区发展。” 受惠者之一的Tshireletso，是一位来自博茨瓦纳的年轻 农民，其后对该国的农业带来举足轻重的影响。 Corey解释说：“当她报名参加我们的免费创业计划时， 并没有预料到其农场会获得任何资助。她坚持完成了16周 的严格商业培训，其中包括多次面试和销售演示环节。” Tshireletso在2022年获得了这笔资金，其Erba Farms农 庄业务始于父母后院的窗台上。如今该品牌已进驻博茨瓦 纳各地超过25家超市，为农村社区创造了就业机会。 “这些资金集中支援致力为各地社区带来改变的企业 家。我们很期待见证计划将如何影响加拿大西北领域的个 人和社区。”Corey称。 小型企业的ESG进程 随着业界守则日益严格，加上消费者和投资者的期望日 渐提升，更凸显了推行可持续发展报告的必要性。 Van der Veken表示：“可持续发展报告为不同规模的机 构带来巨大的价值。鉴于整个价值链对该些报告日益重视， 中小企业，特别是中上游中小企业，在提高透明度和提供有 价值的数据方面都发挥关键作用。” 在业界要求履行供应链尽职调查的呼声下，中小企业越 来越有必要向下游买家揭露其ESG数据。Van der Veken补 充说，他们的付出可能对责任供应链的发展构成巨大影响。 同时，各个司法管辖区的供应链尽职调查要求也在不断 提升，促使价值链上下全面披露可持续发展信息。 Van der Veken指出，奢侈品牌正在经历根本上的转变。 可持续发展在其眼中不仅是一项合规措施，更是必然的商 业策略。中小企业也可追随其步伐，同时专注于优先披露与 其运营方面最相关的主题，以有效管理风险并展示实力。 中小企业可以使用WJI 2030框架等行业标准，来确保 KPI报告的一致性。她补充说，由于各中小企业处于可持续 发展报告过程的不同阶段，因此公开KPI时，在定量和定性 方面的平衡也很重要，以确保各机构的报告信息一致且可 比，同时有效管理成本。 小型企业可以透过有效利用ESG Book等技术服务和平 台来简化其报告流程，ESG Book旨在协助企业完成可持续 发展报告之旅。Van der Veken指出：“ESG Book让各公司能 够自行保管数据，信息可供发布并与投资者和持份者分享。” Corey表示，小型企业可以与为实现ESG目标提供可行路 线图的组织合作。她说：“很多公司已经在支持其业务地区 的社区建设计划。向客户传达这些举措的细节，表明了该企 业在共同价值观上致力推行负责任的业务实践。” Grant则表示，珠宝业的可持续发展思维将促成连串行 动，例如尽职调查、遵守立法，以及将可持续发展目标纳入 业务策略。她强调：“第一步就是果断实行，然后多阅读、聆 听与学习。不妨加入相关计划，与供应商多交流且以自己的 方式作出贡献。珠宝业的未来正取决于此。”
FOCUS 焦点 12 | JNA March/April 2024 Sustainability is the focus of this year’s Jewellery World Awards (JWA) presented by Informa Markets Jewellery. Highlighting environmental stewardship, equality promotion, inclusivity and innovation, the Sustainability Awards 2024 by JWA aims to recognise outstanding sustainability initiatives undertaken between 2021 and 2023 that have generated tangible and measurable benefits that extend beyond commercial interests. It is open to businesses of all sizes operating in the fine jewellery, gemstone and related industries. “There is no better time than the present to celebrate the achievements of the numerous sustainable champions in the world of fine jewellery and gemstones,” said Celine Lau, director of Jewellery Fairs at Informa Markets Jewellery. “The pandemic has undeniably reshaped the sustainability conversation in recent years because we have all changed. It is important that we keep this momentum going. This collective realisation, accompanied by an increasing sense of urgency, emphasises the need for further actions to ensure a sustainable future for generations to come.” Extensive sustainability programme Covering five categories (see page 14), the Sustainability Awards is accepting entries through its online submission form until April 30, 2024. Eligible companies can enter a maximum of two award categories, with each entry to be submitted separately. Participation is completely free. Noting that successful and meaningful sustainability initiatives should be shared with the world, Lau expects to receive submissions from a multitude of backgrounds and perspectives. “In the realm of sustainability, a good idea holds value regardless of whether it originates from a small business or a large corporation. When an idea proves effective, we should wholeheartedly embrace it, replicate its success and spread its benefits far and wide, amplifying its positive impact,” she explained. The first round of judging by an independent jury will take place in May 2024, and the finalists will be announced during the Media Gathering at Jewellery & Gem ASIA Hong Kong (JGA) on June 20. All the finalists will be invited to join the Sustainability Heroes Panel Series during Jewellery & Gem WORLD Hong Kong (JGW) in September. The sessions will feature in-depth conversations about the necessary actions, possibilities and imperatives for creating a sustainable future. The final round of judging will occur in July, with the winners being publicly announced within the same month. The Award Recipients will be honoured and presented with their trophies during the JGW Fair Reception at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre (HKCEC) on September 18. “The Sustainability Awards celebrates organisations that truly walk the talk by embedding sustainability principles into everything they do. It is about going beyond profit and making a positive impact through their activities and operations,” said David Bondi, senior vice president of Informa Markets in Asia. “We want them to share their stories, milestones and achievements since | Olivia Quiniquini 程爱莉 | Informa Markets Jewellery is training the spotlight on sustainability this year in its Jewellery World Awards (JWA) programme. Informa Markets Jewellery 以可持续发展为今年Jewellery World Awards (JWA大奖)的主题。 Recognising sustainability champions 表彰可持续发展倡导者
FOCUS 焦点 JNA March/April 2024 | 13 these vividly illustrate the immense possibilities that arise when sustainability becomes an intrinsic part of one’s business endeavours. Through these inspiring examples, they demonstrate that creating a better future is not only conceivable but also attainable.” Industry platform Lau added that embracing sustainability as a fundamental part of an organisation’s strategy not only benefits the planet but also drives business success. “We all want a planet that is environmentally sustainable and fosters thriving societies. This means taking responsibility for our actions, both as individuals and as a company,” she said. “Sustainability actions are not only a responsibility and a necessity, but also a key to business longevity.” According to Lau, since numerous companies in the jewellery industry are driving their own sustainability efforts, the Sustainability Awards provides them with a platform to showcase their initiatives and actions. “Collaboration and knowledge-sharing are essential for the sustainability message to gain traction,” she remarked. Sustainability has always been at the top of Informa’s agenda, she continued. For instance, its Better Stands programme recognises exhibitors that reuse the majority, if not all, of their stand components at Informa shows and other events. “We all have to do our part, and this is a message that we share with our exhibitors and visitors through the Sustainability Awards,” Lau said. 全面的可持续发展计划 大奖包括五个类别(请参阅第14页)。大会由即日起至 2024年4月30日接受奖项提名，符合资格的企业可使用在线 提名表格，最多参加两个奖项类别，每项提名须提交个别的 表格及相关资料，费用全免。 刘小雯认为成功而有意义的可持续发展倡议应公诸同 好，她预计将收到来自不同背景和想法的提名。“在可持续 发展范畴，只要是好的想法都具有价值，不论它来自小公司 还是大企业。”她解释说，“当一个想法被证明是行之有效 时，我们应该全力支持它，复制它的成功方法，将其优点发 扬光大，扩大它带来的积极影响。” 由独立评审团组成的初轮评审定于2024年5月进行 ，选 出的决赛入围者将于6月20日举行的寰亚盛会 | 六月香港珠 宝首饰展览会(JGA)媒体聚会上公布。入围者将获邀参加于 环球盛事 | 九月香港珠宝首饰展览会(JGW)期间举办的“可 持续发展领袖论坛系列”，就创造可持续未来而必须采取的 行动、可能性和迫切性等议题，进行深入的探讨。 第二轮评审将于7月进行，并于同月公布获奖名单。颁奖 典礼将于9月18日在香港会议展览中心的JGW开幕酒会上 举行。 Informa Markets亚洲高级副总裁庞大为(David Bondi) 称：“可持续发展大奖旨在表扬把可持续发展原则融入各 业务范畴的机构。他们通过各种活动和业务运营，带来了超 越利润的正面影响。我们希望分享他们的故事，因为其发展 里程和成就，具体地说明了当可持续发展成为企业运作的 内在组成部分时，能够产生许多可能性！这些鼓舞人心的例 子，证明了创造一个更美好的未来，不仅是可以想象的，还 是可以实现的！” 业界对话 刘小雯补充道，把可持续发展视为企业的重要战略，既 可为地球带来积极的影响，还可推动业务创下佳绩。她说： “我们都希望地球环境可持续发展，社会繁荣昌盛。这意味 着我们要为自己的行为负责，无论是作为个人还是公司。可 持续发展是企业的责任和必须采取的行动，对其长远发展 也是举足轻重的。” 刘小雯指出，由于珠宝业中众多公司都在推动可持续发 展，JWA可持续发展大奖为他们提供了一个展示其举措和 行动的平台。她说：“合作和知识共享对传播可持续发展的 信息尤其重要。” 她续说，可持续发展一直是Informa的首要任务。例如， “绿色优化展台”(Better Stands)计划表彰在Informa展会和 其他活动中，重用大部分(甚至全部)搭建展台的物料的参展 商。刘小雯说：“我们必须尽自己的一分力量，这也是我们通 过可持续发展大奖向参展商和访者传达的信息。” 由Informa Markets Jewellery主办的Jewellery World Awards (JWA大奖)，今年以可持续发展为 特定主题。 2024年JWA可持续发展大奖聚焦环境管理、促进平等、 包容性和创新，旨在嘉许在2021至2023年间实施可持续发 展项目，并取得了超越商业利益、实质且可衡量的效益的机 构。在高级珠宝、宝石及相关行业的企业均可参加，不论其 业务运营规模。 Informa Markets Jewellery珠宝展览部总监刘小雯说： “没有比现在更好的时机来表扬高级珠宝和宝石业界中， 众多可持续发展倡导者所取得的成就。无可否认，近年疫情 重塑了可持续发展议题的讨论，因为我们都经历了转变。我 们必须继续探讨这议题，这种对可持续发展的集体意识，伴 随着日益增强的迫切性，都促使企业必须加快行动，以确保 下一代拥有一个可持续发展的未来。”
FOCUS 焦点 14 | JNA March/April 2024 Environmental Stewardship Award: Nature Conservation and Regeneration 环境管理奖：自然保护与再生 Recognising exceptional leadership in implementing innovative strategies and practices in order to protect and restore ecosystems, promote biodiversity, reduce environmental impact and foster sustainable resource management. 此奖项旨在表彰在保护和恢复生态系统、促进生物多样性、尽量减少对环境的影响，以及促进可持续资源 管理等方面，成功实践创新的策略和举措，并取得卓越成果的企业。 Social Empowerment Award: Advancing Diversity, Equity and Inclusion 社会赋权奖：促进多样性、公平性和包容性 Acknowledging extraordinary efforts aimed at creating equal opportunities for all, which may involve initiatives such as enhancing access to quality education and healthcare services, creating inclusive environments that empower individuals and communities, and more. 此类别表扬在创造平等机会方面所付出的努力，例如加强获得优质教育和医疗保健服务的机会，以及营造 具包容性的环境，从而赋权予个人和社区等项目。 Manufacturing Innovation Award: Technological Advancement and Sustainable Operations 制造创新奖：技术进步与可持续运营 Bringing attention to actions that demonstrated exceptional innovation across multiple domains, including technology, operations, research and development (R&D) and logistics, while also prioritising sustainable practices. By successfully implementing measures such as energy efficiency, waste reduction and green supply chain management, organisations in this category have achieved a remarkable synergy between technological advancement and sustainable operations. 此奖项嘉许在技术、营运、研发和物流等范畴实施行之有效的创新举措的同时，还以可持续实务作为优先 考虑的企业。参加此类别的企业须已成功实施高效节约能源、减废及绿色供应链管理等措施，并且在技术 发展与可持续运营之间取得了良好的协同效应。 Community Engagement Award: Fostering Local Sustainability 社区参与奖：促进本地可持续发展 Acknowledging the importance of active community engagement in promoting sustainability and empowering local residents, this award shines a light on activities that forge meaningful connections with communities. Through strong partnerships with public stakeholders and the implementation of programmes addressing local needs, the nominated organisations have exemplified their commitment to enhancing social, economic and environmental well-being at the grassroots level. 此奖项强调与当地社区积极合作，以有效促进可持续发展和赋予居民权力的重要性，表彰能够与社区建立 有意义联系的活动。参选企业须已与社区建立牢固的伙伴关系，实施满足当地需求的项目，并充分体现他 们对基层社区的福祉(包括社会、经济和环境)作出承诺。 Sustainability Leadership Award: Going Beyond ESG and Driving Sustainable Transformation 可持续发展领袖奖：超越ESG并推动可持续转型 Honouring enterprises that have embraced sustainability as a core value and implemented transformative strategies that extend beyond conventional ESG practices. Nominees should have shown exceptional vision and leadership in driving change within their organisations and in the communities they serve. Through this award, these enterprises serve as inspiring role models in the pursuit of sustainability, motivating others to follow their lead and igniting significant transformation towards a brighter future. 此奖项旨在表彰视可持续发展为重要价值观，并实施了超越传统ESG实务的变革性 策略的企业。参选机构须在推动企业本身和其所服务社区的可持续变革方面，表现 出非凡的远见和领导力。此奖项让这些高瞻远瞩的企业，成为业界追求可持续发展 的榜样，激励其他企业跟随其步伐，投入永续转型的行列，共同点燃更光明的未来。 Categories of the Sustainability Awards 2024 by JWA 2024年JWA可持续发展大奖的奖项类别 jwawards.com
DESIGN 设计 16 | JNA March/April 2024 Men’s jewellery is progressing beyond traditional watches and wedding bands as men steadily embrace the wearing of jewellery to express their personality and individual style. From intricately crafted necklaces to bold rings and stylish bracelets, jewellery is becoming an integral part of men’s everyday fashion choices or special occasion picks. According to jewellers, the industry has witnessed a surge in the number of male celebrities effortlessly adorning themselves with eclectic jewellery pieces. The influence displayed by these trendsetters has played a pivotal role in driving consumer demand in recent years. And while the market is dominated by a few renowned brands, an increasing number of jewellery manufacturers and designers are jumping on the men’s jewellery bandwagon as they recognise the potential of this growing market. They are also offering more options to cater to rising consumer demand for innovative designs. Gem sparkle While traditional materials such as gold and silver are popular choices for men’s jewellery, more contemporary designs increasingly feature a wider variety of gems. The designs skilfully blend style and masculinity with a touch of elegance. Abhishek Patel, vice president of US-based jewellery manufacturer Dialust Inc, said his clients are keen on acquiring jewellery pieces embellished with more diamonds. A signature collection from Dialust comprises diamond-studded rings, which come in yellow, white and rose gold. Yellow gold is the most preferred choice among US consumers, according to Patel. | Sharon Kwok 郭芷雯 | Jewellery for men has risen in popularity in recent years as male consumers confidently explore exciting new ways to express their personal style. More versatile pieces alongside unconventional gemstones are all the rage now in this ever-evolving jewellery category. 近年，男士珠宝首飾蔚然成风，皆因男 性消费者正积极探索以新方式来展現个人风格。在日新月异 的珠宝类别中，百搭的首飾和非传统的宝石成为時尚潮流。 当代男士气概 Thick curb chains by Aequa & Co Aequa & Co的Curb粗项链 Contemporary masculinity
DESIGN设计 JNA March/April 2024 | 17 He also noted that consumers are fond of diamond pendants with symbolic motifs such as lightning bolts, crosses and feathers. Founded in 2018, Dialust offers a diverse range of fine jewellery for male consumers. “Demand for coloured gemstones and pearls is picking up. Diamonds combined with coloured gemstones and pearls are very trendy now,” Patel said. Oi Chan, director of men’s jewellery brand Aequa & Co, echoed this view, saying that their latest baroque pearl jewellery set comprising a necklace, bracelet and single earring has been well-received by customers. Another highly sought-after piece is a gold chain with pearls and lion-inspired charms. Jewellery adorned with coloured gemstones is likewise gaining traction, Chan added. She considers the London bracelet set with London blue topaz from Aequa & Co's Hue Collection as an ideal example of a modern fine coloured gemstone jewellery piece for men. Also grabbing attention in this collection is the Cuban Diam ring featuring a peridot centre stone and diamond accents, which puts a unique spin on the classic Cuban chain ring. “We receive a lot of requests for the Cuban Diam ring as well as enquiries about the make of the product,” Chan said. Officially launched in 2023, Aequa & Co offers an array of accessible fine jewellery pieces targeting millennials and Gen Z consumers. Colour is the new black for Hong Kong jewellery designer Flow Wong who recently developed a selection of coloured gemstone jewellery pieces featuring aquamarine, topaz, rhodolite, tourmaline, peridot and citrine for his men’s jewellery brand, Flow Design Craftsmanship. “I used to create monochromatic jewellery but I recently started to incorporate more coloured gems into my designs. Vibrant jewellery pieces tend to be more captivating. Colourful and sparkling jewellery is not exclusively feminine; it can be incredibly stylish for men, too,” he said. Wong strives to offer a fresh perspective on jewellery for men, breaking away from the notions of simple, ultra-masculine designs. His latest work explores vintage aesthetics with a contemporary touch using modern jewellerymaking techniques. “The Vintage x Contemporary ring designs capture the essence of vintage style, but you will notice that the curves and structures are impeccably balanced. This is achieved by utilising 3D modelling as well as traditional craftsmanship techniques,” he explained. Self-expression Innovative designs have been instrumental in making men’s jewellery more mainstream. Jewellery brands, for instance, offer an array of refined chains, statement rings and versatile bracelets, each crafted to serve as bold expressions of the wearer’s individuality. Patel of Dialust explained, “Consumers are looking for exclusive, unique pieces that resonate with their personal style. They want to express themselves through their jewellery choices.” He added that consumers are fond of stacking their jewellery and wearing multiple chains and a statement pendant. This particular style has become trendy among today’s male consumers. “Our customers are looking for versatile pieces that they can wear anytime, anywhere,” Chan of Aequa & Co shared. “Celebrities and famous personalities have been seen wearing Aequa & Co’s jewellery pieces to many different functions and when performing on stage or attending personal events.” Chan said Aequa & Co’s objective is to create sophisticated and contemporary men’s jewellery pieces that are ideal for every occasion, aligning with the prevailing demand. While the US and European markets are more receptive to men’s jewellery pieces, there is a growing trend in Asia of male consumers wearing jewellery as a fashion item, demonstrating glowing opportunities for jewellers in 2024, Patel added. Neutral rings by Flow Design Craftsmanship Flow Design Craftsmanship的Neutral戒指 London bracelet from Aequa & Co’s Hue Collection Aequa & Co Hue系列的London手链 Start Your Creation pendant by Flow Design Craftsmanship Flow Design Craftsmanship的 Start Your Creation吊坠
DESIGN 设计 18 | JNA March/April 2024 男士首饰已跳出了传统手表和结婚戒指的框框，男 士们逐渐开始佩戴珠宝来表达自我和个人风格。 从做工复杂的项链、个性鲜明的戒指到时尚型格 的手链，首饰已成为男士日常时装搭配或特殊场合打扮中 不可或缺的一部分。 据珠宝商称，珠宝行业见证了越来越多的男性名人佩戴 不拘一格的珠宝。近年来，这些潮流引领者的影响力在推动 消费需求方面发挥了关键作用。 纵使男士首饰类别由几个知名品牌主导，但更多珠宝制 造商和设计师都留意到这股日益增长的市场潜力，并纷纷 加入战圈，期望分一杯羹。他们提供更多不同的产品选择， 以满足消费者对创新设计的殷切需求。 闪耀的宝石 虽然金银等传统物料是男士首饰的热门选择，但更富现 代感的设计则趋向采用各种宝石。这些设计巧妙地将时尚 和男性刚阳气慨与优雅特质合二为一。 美国珠宝制造商Dialust Inc的副总裁Abhishek Patel表 示，他的客户热衷于购买镶嵌较多钻石的首饰。 Dialust的标志性系列包括镶钻戒指，有黄金、白金和玫 瑰金三种材质以供选择。Patel指黄金是美国消费者的首选。 他还指出，消费者喜欢闪电、十字架和羽毛等象征性主 题的钻石吊坠。 Dialust于2018年成立，提供多样化的高级男士珠宝。 Patel说：“市场对彩色宝石和珍珠的需求正在上升。钻石 与彩色宝石和珍珠的结合将非常流行。” 男士珠宝品牌Aequa & Co的总监Oi Chan也持相同观 点，并指其品牌最新推出的巴洛克珍珠首饰套装（包括项 链、手链和单边耳环）深受顾客欢迎。另一款畅销的饰品是 配有珍珠和狮子造型串饰的金链。 Chan补充说，镶嵌彩色宝石的首饰同样受到追捧 。 Aequa & Co的Hue London手链以伦敦蓝托帕石制作，她认 为这款饰品是现代男士彩色宝石首饰的典范。 Hue系列的另一个亮点是Cuban Diam戒指，它以橄榄 石为主石并缀有钻石，为经典的古巴链戒指注入了独特的 元素。 Chan说：“我们收到了很多关于Cuban Diam戒指的订 单，还有关于产品制作的查询。” Aequa & Co于2023年正式上市，提供一系列轻奢高级珠 宝首饰，以千禧一代和Z世代消费者为目标客户群。 对于香港珠宝设计师Flow Wong来说，彩色成为流行主 色，他最近为自家男士首饰品牌Flow Design Craftsmanship 设计了一系列彩宝作品，采用了各种彩宝，包括海蓝宝石、 拓帕石、玫瑰石榴石、碧玺、橄榄石和黄水晶。 他说∶“以往我设计的珠宝通常是黑白色调，但最近我 开始在设计中加入更多彩宝。色彩丰富的作品往往更具吸 引力。色彩斑斓、闪闪发光的珠宝并非女士专属，男士佩戴 也可以非常时尚。” Wong致力为男士首饰提供崭新的视角，打破简单、极端 男性化的固有形象。他的最新作品采用现代珠宝制作工艺， 探索复古与现代美学的结合。 他解释道∶“Vintage x Contemporary戒指的设计呈现 了复古风格的精髓，但你会发现曲线和结构之间的平衡无 懈可击。这是通过结合三维建模和传统工艺技术实现的。” 展現真我 创新设计促使男士首饰日渐流行。珠宝品牌提供了琳琅 满目的产品，如精致的链、彰显个性的戒指和风格多样的手 链，每件精心制作的产品都让佩戴者能够自信地展现自我。 Dialust的Patel解释说：“消费者正在寻找能与他们的个 人风格产生共鸣的独特配饰。他们希望通过珠宝首饰来表 达自我个性。” 他补充指消费者喜欢叠戴首饰，如佩戴多条链子加一个充 满个性的吊坠。这种风格已成为现今男性消费者的时尚趋势。 Aequa & Co的Chan分享说：“我们的顾客正在物色可以 随时随地佩戴的百搭饰品。不少名人都佩戴Aequa & Co的 首饰出席各种场合，从登台表演到出席个人活动都适用。” Chan说，Aequa & Co旨在创造出精致高质的现代男士首 饰，适合任何场合佩戴，这理念正切合消费者的需求。 Patel补充说，虽然美国和欧洲市场比较接受男士首饰， 但亚洲男性消费者将首饰作为时尚单品佩戴的趋势也在不 断上升，这为珠宝商在2024年的发展提供了闪亮机遇。 Diamond box link necklace by Dialust Inc; Cuban Diam ring by Aequa & Co; and diamond-studded ring in 14-karat gold by Dialust Inc Dialust Inc的钻石盒式项链 ；Aequa & Co的Cuban Diam戒指 ；Dialust Inc的14K金钻石戒指
SPOTLIGHT 市场聚焦 JNA March/April 2024 | 19 NEW ERA OF LEADERS | Olivia Quiniquini 程爱莉 | 新世代领袖 A fresh crop of industry and business leaders are taking over the reins of the jewellery world, injecting the trade with vitality and a renewed sense of purpose in post-pandemic times. Gem and jewellery establishments are likewise transforming under the guidance of next-generation scions and enterprising movers and shakers, whose influence and impact extend to the industry at large. JNA profiles the visionary individuals shaping the jewellery industry of tomorrow. 新一代工商界领袖正接掌珠宝业，为业界注入后疫情时代极需要 的活力和革新的使命感。在新一代继承人和积极进取的推动者的 带领下，宝石和珠宝企业正逐步转型。他们的新理念和战略为整个 行业带来深远的影响。本期《JNA亚洲珠宝》介绍了这些富有远见 的菁英，他们在各自的领域中主导发展，塑造珠宝业的未来。
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