JNA July/ August 2024

DESIGN 设计 36 | JNA July/August 2024 Designers expect hand-drawing to maintain its significance in the future. Unlike computer-generated drawings, hand-drawn sketches possess a unique ability to convey the nuances of handcrafted jewellery. Lee anticipates a rise in the appreciation of artistic jewellery and envisions having each piece come with an individual certificate from the designer. This certificate will not only authenticate the piece but also feature its design drawings and signatures. "In addition to admiring the physical jewellery, you can also delve into my insights and inspirations behind the design,” he said. For jewellery designers working with high jewellery maisons, paintings are often archived. "When it comes to bespoke projects, clients cherish having paintings of their jewels,” Hardion revealed. “My gouache paintings are typically sent to jewellery makers and must therefore be extremely precise.” 当数字技术在珠宝世界日益普及之际,人们亦重新 爱上手绘画的浪漫质感。数字软件技术日新月 异,彻底提升了珠宝设计的精确度、效率和扩展 功能。这些工具对于3D建模和画像呈现等工序方面相当实 用,但仅靠数字软件绘图,未必能够细致入微地呈现创意想 象。因此,全新的学院和课程陆续登场,重新强调绘画是设 计师的重要技能。 以水粉或不透明水彩作画看似简单,不过正如所有艺术 形式,需要多加钻研和磨练技巧才能掌握秘诀。高级珠宝界 一直推崇这门传统工艺,特别是巴黎旺多姆广场的顶尖珠 宝品牌。 有效的设计对话 珠宝绘图在设计过程中不可或缺,尽管是一门经典工 艺,但也可以成为向客户传递概念的最快捷方式。 珠宝绘图学校Draw me a Jewel的创始人Inesa Kovalova 表示:“你只需花几分钟画一幅草图,已经可以推销设计概 念。绘图能够帮助你传达愿景,也是设计师最重要的技能之 一。绘画插图是下一步,能够为作品附加价值。” The idea to start a school emerged from understanding the gap between industry needs and education. Kovalova said, “High jewellery companies want creative designers with strong drawing abilities. Yet many creative schools do not emphasise drawing enough, fearing it may constrain creativity. This gap leaves numerous talented designers without the drawing skills needed to excel in their careers.” Recognising this opportunity, Draw me a Jewel pioneered the first online jewellery drawing course, and its success was immediate. Treasured keepsakes Gouache paintings can also be viewed as works of art, especially for bespoke creations. “For unique pieces, the hand drawing is a great addition to the overall experience and value of the piece,” said Kovalova. Many of Mané’s original paintings are in private collections, with notable private collectors and even royal families among his clientele. “I had the honour of having my drawings enlarged in giant format on the walls of the Louvre Palace, in the Paris Museum of Decorative Arts and during the 2019 Imperial Alexandrite exhibition at the Rubeus Milano house,” he revealed. The art of drawing is brought to a new immersive level at high jewellery art brand Qannati Objet d'Art, where Mané is artistic director. Here, clients can expect bespoke pieces meticulously tailored to their needs. “I personally sketch their dream designs by hand, which will then be manufactured in France by the best craftsmen based on my drawings,” he said. Through drawing, I can visualise how a piece will look and make adjustments before moving to the production stage. It is an integral part of translating imagination into tangible pieces, guiding me from initial inspiration to the final product. – Jewellery designer Anna Hu Bubble Tea necklace sketch by Claire-Chine Hardion Claire-Chine Hardion的Bubble Tea项链草图

RkJQdWJsaXNoZXIy NjAxOTU=