DESIGN设计 JNA July/August 2024 | 35 Kovalova disclosed. “The definition of luxury is based on scarcity. Even when we paint the same piece several times, each one would be slightly different,” she said. “There is also a natural limit in our capacity. We cannot paint an unlimited number of artworks, but technology can be applied to produce numerous replicas.” Hardion echoes this sentiment, expressing that drawing by hand enables her to cultivate her unique artistic vision of luxury. Hand in hand Designers believe traditional methods of jewellery drawing can coexist and merge with digital developments. Keeping both would be more interesting and richer than squeezing one out of the process, Hardion said. According to Rowlands, while digital tools will continue to evolve and assist in jewellery production, many craftspeople, jewellery business models and manufacturing methods still value and call for a hand-drawn illustration to start the creative process. Like all digital tools, computer-aided design (CAD) has its limitations and cannot always capture the intricacies of one's creative vision. “Digital renderings can sometimes feel sterile or overly polished, whereas hand-drawn sketches have a rawness and authenticity that can be very compelling,” Hu remarked. It is this human handcrafted process that remains integral to the highest echelons of fine jewellery design. Inesa Kovalova started Draw me a Jewel as an Instagram page in 2017, aimed at preserving this technique and popularising it outside of the Vendôme universe at a time when the jewellery world was placing greater emphasis on craftsmanship. Jewellery drawing is also the primary medium of expression for designers. Hand-drawn illustrations possess the unique ability to evoke emotions and narratives that connect deeply with clients on a personal level. According to French jewellery designer and brand consultant Frédéric Mané, drawing by hand enables him to articulate his ideas, capturing the fluidity of his thoughts as an extension of his hand movements on paper. He said, "Drawing and then painting allow me to express my emotion as an artist and also deliver a precise real-size drawing. This enables me to make a proper quote and produce the piece with the right proportions in the workshop.” Technical constraints Digital renderings have significantly reduced the reliance on pencils or paint. Recent advancements in digital software have made designing jewellery more accessible. While this has its advantages, it also creates challenges in producing realistic and wearables pieces, said freelance jewellery designer, illustrator and lecturer Jennifer Rowlands. “In a world where digital designs are prevalent, the tactile nature of hand-drawn illustrations stand out. The texture of the paper, the variations in line thickness and even the occasional imperfection add character to the artwork, making it feel more dynamic and relatable,” she explained. Moreover, hand drawings can never be replicated exactly due to human fallibility, making each sketch truly distinctive, Hong Kong jewellery designer Austy Lee is known for meticulously hand-drawing every piece in his sketchbook, which he calls his “visual diary.” To him, every detail, stroke, line and arc reflects the designer's experience, aesthetics, thoroughness and knowledge. In his creative process, inspiration is promptly captured and recorded, ensuring that no fleeting idea goes unnoticed. For Taiwanese jewellery designer Anna Hu, jewellery drawing is not just about sketching designs but about bringing ideas to life, exploring possibilities and refining concepts. “Through drawing, I can visualise how a piece will look and make adjustments before moving to the production stage. It is an integral part of translating imagination into tangible pieces, guiding me from initial inspiration to the final product,” she shared. Jade bangle sketch by Austy Lee Austy Lee的玉手镯绘图 Jewellery designer Claire-Chine Hardion 珠宝设计师Claire-Chine Hardion
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