FOCUS 焦点 JNA July/August 2024 | 11 amethysts, danburites, kunzites and morganites – adorn a futuristic model in another digital illustration. “The key to successfully transferring the value of gemstones to AI design is to balance the aesthetic and symbolic qualities of gems with the specific goals of the design project,” the company noted. “AI can help to develop ideas and execute designs that capture the essence of gems while meeting the functional and aesthetic requirements.” Imaginative designs Proponents are present too in the fine jewellery space. One firm believer in the power of AI is Payal Shah, owner and designer of jewellery brand L’Dezen, who has been at the forefront of web3 innovations. Her journey into the world of AI began with a curiosity about how emerging technologies could revolutionise traditional industries. She was among the first in the jewellery trade to embrace non-fungible tokens or NFTs and has since been actively exploring how AI can enhance creativity and efficiency in the jewellery sector. “The potential of AI to transform various aspects of the jewellery business, from design to customer engagement, drew me towards its possibilities,” Shah explained. “I believe that mastering these technological skills provides a competitive edge, especially when competing with major brands that have extensive marketing budgets.” She uses AI-powered design software to generate new concepts and experiment with patterns and forms that may not be immediately intuitive. Text-to-image generators also help create mood boards to inspire design ideas. Actress Sienna Miller once requested Psylish, Shah’s contemporary jewellery brand, to create a necklace of her daughter’s signature. Using the Algoneeiring AI app, Shah turned the handwritten signature into a pendant design, which Miller confirmed immediately and wore to the Wimbledon Finals that year. In another instance, Shah resorted to the Replicate textto-image generative AI app to imagine L’Dezen’s Fifi earrings in different materials. AI-powered art generator Midjourney, meanwhile, stimulates her imagination, allowing her to visualise the mood of an upcoming campaign. “Current AI applications in jewellery design are quite advanced. They can produce wearable and realistic jewellery designs, often with a high degree of originality. But while AI can create impressive designs, the final touch and approval always come from our human designers to ensure the designs align with our brand’s aesthetic and quality standards,” she said. French jewellery firm Atelier Mille Or combines artisanal craftsmanship with advanced technologies like AI and computer-aided design to push the boundaries of creativity and precision in jewellery design. Co-Founder and General Manager Amine Messaoudi said, “AI enhances jewellery Gem possibilities In the coloured gemstone field, Gübelin Gem Lab has made significant strides with its AI-driven Gemtelligence platform. Since its February 2023 launch, the deep-learning system has helped gemmologists evaluate analytical data from rubies, blue sapphires and emeralds submitted to the lab. “By significantly reducing the human factor in the interpretation of the analytical data, Gemtelligence improves the consistency of our results. And by retrieving more information from a given set of analytical data, it also increases accuracy, namely the percentage of stones for which an origin can be confidently determined,” explained Daniel Nyfeler, managing director of Gübelin Gem Lab. Gemtelligence’s capabilities are now harnessed for a dedicated product, the Gem Passport service that offers origin and simplified treatment details of rubies, blue sapphires and emeralds. The system’s cost savings and greater efficiencies enable the lab to offer the new service for just CHF 200 (around US$224). “The underlying concept and structure of Gemtelligence, and its machine-learning architecture, comparing the performance of the software versus human experts, is scheduled to be published later this year in the prestigious scientific journal Nature,” said Nyfler. “We went through a long review process and are pleased to have this important piece of research published soon.” Buoyed by the gains from Gemtelligence, Gübelin Gem Lab is exploring further AI applications in coloured gemstone grading. Machine-learning technologies could possibly incorporate new data types, including imagery. Colour assessment though is a stumbling block. Nyfeler said, “We have not come across a convincing technology that is capable of reliably dealing with the complexity of a consistent, quantitative assessment of three-dimensional, transparent and anisotropic materials, which most gemstones are.” Branding exercise For German lapidarist Constantin Wild GmbH & Co KG, AI helped deliver a strong new brand identity that melds the enduring beauty of coloured gemstones and the possibilities of AI in the modern world. The result is Cyber Gem World, a series of AI-generated digital artworks that set spectacular coloured gemstones in striking fantasy worlds. In one, a yellow Sri Lankan sapphire is integrated into the jacket of a futuristic fashionista. Another graphic showcases a layout of blue aquamarines against a stylised pink-flamingo lady. Rare tourmalines lord over yet another image, while a suite of purple and pink gemstones – 1) ‘Cosmos’ jewel inspired by AI-suggested patterns by Atelier Mille Or; 2) Digital art from the AI-generated Cyber Gem World brand campaign of Constantin Wild GmbH & Co KG; 3) ‘Vitality’ ring inspired by AI-derived anatomical themes by Atelier Mille Or; 4) AI-derived design idea for an Infinity Motif pendant, from prompts by Payal Shah of L'Dezen 1) Atelier Mille Or的Cosmos珠宝，灵感来自人工智慧建议的 图案; 2) 使用人工智慧生成的数字艺术作品，来自 Constantin Wild GmbH & Co KG 的 Cyber Gem World品牌活动; 3) Atelier Mille Or的Vitality戒 指，靈感來自人工智慧生成解剖主題; 4) 根据L'Dezen的Payal Shah給予的提示词，并由人工智慧生成的Infinity Motif吊坠构思
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