JULY/AUGUST 2024 ISSUE #446 US$15 Technology and innovation in the jewellery space 珠宝领域的科技与创新 Extending the shopfront 延伸实体店
CONTENTS Issue #446 | JULY/AUGUST 2024 24 STRATEGY 企业策略 24 Extending the shopfront 持续扩张店铺 8DIGEST 市场指标 8 India retains edge in silver jewellery production 印度保持银饰生产优势 10 FOCUS 焦点 10 AI: Prompting efficiencies in the jewellery world 人工智慧：提升珠宝行业效率 16 Jewellery’s creative transformations 珠宝创意转型 20 INNOVATION 创新科技 20 Bright prospects in platinum electroforming 铂金电铸前景平坦开阔 22 Gemtelligence powers Gübelin Gem Lab’s growth 促进古宝琳长远发展 28 PERSPECTIVE 精辟视野 28 Expanding platinum’s global appeal 全面提升铂金的国际市场吸引力
On the Cover 封面 Sapphire cocktail rings from the Xpandable™ Collection of Picchiotti. The rings feature the brand’s patented invisible expanding mechanism that can stretch up to two ring sizes. Picchiotti Xpandable™系列的蓝宝石鸡尾酒戒指。这些戒指可自由调大两个尺码。 Digital version 电子版： https://news.jewellerynet.com/en/publications 48 MARKET INTELLIGENCE 市场情报 48 Bolstering Japan's jewellery manufacturing expertise 日本珠宝制造开拓未來 54 Unlocking possibilities in China's ruby market 打开中国红宝石市场的无限可能 34 The art of jewellery drawing 珠宝绘图的艺术 30 DESIGN 设计 30 Colourful aspirations 绚丽多彩的追求 41 SPOTLIGHT 市场聚焦 41 Sustainability leaders in the jewellery trade 珠宝业可持续发展的领军人物 57 Spain makes strides in lightweight jewellery category 小巧首饰浪潮席卷西班牙 60 Gold jewellery shines at Istanbul fair 伊斯坦布尔珠宝展证金饰市况畅旺 64 JGAB 2024 trains the spotlight on Southeast Asia 2024年JGAB展聚焦东南亚市场 44 Making brands sustainable 建立可持续发展品牌 45 Sustainability Diary 可持续发展日志
Every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information in JNA. However, the publication of such information is at the sole discretion of the publisher. The publisher and the editorial team shall not be held responsible or in any way held liable for any errors, omissions or inaccuracies in this publication, or for any consequences arising therefrom. The contents of this publication are protected by copyright and cannot be reproduced, photocopied, transmitted or posted in any form without the prior written consent of the publisher. 本得公以司任已何尽方力式确翻保印《、J仿N制A亚或洲转珠载宝本》刊所物刊任登何的部内份容之正文确字无或误图。片如。因错漏而引致任何损失，本公司概不负责。本公司保留刊登有关资料的一切权利。版权所有，如未获得本公司事先之书面允许，不 Printed by Asia One Printing Limited,13/F, Asia One Tower, 8 Fung Yip Street, Chai Wan, Hong Kong. 印刷商: 宏亚印务有限公司香港柴湾丰业街8号宏亚大厦13楼 Associate Publisher & Editor-in-Chief Olivia Quiniquini 副出版人及主编 程爱莉 EDITORIAL 编辑部 Deputy Editor Bernardette Sto. Domingo 副编辑 杜明高 Assistant Editor Sharon Kwok 助理編輯 郭芷雯 Assistant Digital Product Manager William Yick 助理数码产品经理 易昌耀 ADVERTISING 广告部 Assistant Director Christine Sinn 区域营业总监 冼蕙珠 Sales Manager Kitman Chan 销售经理 陈洁雯 MARKETING 市場推广部 Senior Marketing & Communications Manager Ronny Pang 高级市场及传讯经理 彭秋影 Assistant Marketing & Communications Manager Monica Kwok 市場及傳訊助理經理 郭君寧 Marketing & Communications Executive Vincent Wong 市场及传讯主任 黄志伟 PRODUCTION 制作部 Production Manager Jennifer So 制作部经理 苏丽娟 Senior Designer Eva Kam 高级设计师 甘铭灵 Assistant Event and Media Service Manager Bonnie Law 助理项目及媒体服务经理 罗凤伦 ADVERTISING REPRESENTATIVES 广告代理 China 中国: 广州代表处 胡淑晶 | Tel 电话: (86) 20 8666 0158 Email 电邮: [email protected] Germany 德国: Liz Dobelmann | Tel 电话: (49) 721 384 1881 Email 电邮: [email protected] Italy 意大利: Mauro Arati | Tel 电话: (39) 02048517853 Email 电邮: [email protected] Japan 日本: Nobuaki Nito | Tel 电话: (81) 3 52961020 Email 电邮: [email protected] Taiwan 台湾: Rita Hung | Tel 电话: (886) 2 2738 3898 Email 电邮: [email protected] Thailand 泰国: Thitima Sriutharawong | Tel 电话: (66) 0 2 036 0500 Ext. 248 Email 电邮: [email protected] US 美国: Bonnie Chan | Tel 电话: (1) 347 906 4693 Email 电邮: [email protected] President & CEO - Asia Margaret Ma Connolly 亚洲主席及行政总裁 马颖 Senior Vice President - Asia David Bondi 亚洲高级副总裁 庞大为 Director of Jewellery Fairs Celine Lau 珠宝展览部总监 刘小雯 Published by Informa Markets 出版 17/F, China Resources Building, 26 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong 香港湾仔港湾道26号华润大厦17樓 Email 电邮: [email protected] JewelleryNet.com
DIGEST 市场指标 8 | JNA July/August 2024 Online Trade Updates 新闻快讯 De Beers rolls out new strategy focused on natural diamonds 戴比 尔斯推出以天然钻石为核心的新战略 Bulgari launches ‘most extraordinary’ collection to date 宝格丽推出史上“最非凡”的珠宝系列 Solid demand for Zambian emeralds at Gemfields auction 赞比亚祖母绿 在Gemfields拍卖会上展现强劲需求 De Beers Group has unveiled its new five-year strategy, aptly named Origins, which is aimed at driving sustainable growth and revitalising desire for natural diamonds amid slow market recovery. 在钻石市场复苏缓慢的情况下，戴比尔斯集团 发布了新的五年战略，并将其命名为“起源” (Origins)，旨在推动可持续增长，并重振人们对天 然钻石的渴求。 Luxury jeweller Bulgari is upping the ante in high-end jewellery design with the launch of the Aeterna Collection, featuring the most phenomenal jewellery pieces it has ever created. 著名珠宝品牌宝格丽在高端珠宝设计领域再有突 破，推出全新Aeterna系列，呈献品牌有史以来最 卓尔不凡的杰作。 Gemfields’ auction of higher-quality rough emeralds, which was held from May 13 to 30, generated US$35 million, with 93 per cent of lots offered being sold to signal strong appetite for Zambian gems. Gemfields最近举办的高品质祖母绿原石拍卖会 成交额高达3,500万美元，其中93%的拍品已售 出，这表明市场对赞比亚宝石的需求殷切。 Our digital platform provides additional content for an even more comprehensive industry perspective. Scan the QR code for the full story and more trade news. 我们的数字平台载有更多更全面的 行业视角报道，请扫瞄二维码查看 全文和更多行业信息。 news.jewellerynet.com/en/jnanews Celebration of India Photo credit 图片鸣谢: Ethereal Green Diamond LLP The top silver jewellery producer in 2023, according to the World Silver Survey 2024. India retained its lead in silver jewellery manufacturing amid a 25 per cent decrease in production volume due to high local prices, limited stock replenishment and competition from imports, the report noted. India is expected to return to growth this year, driven by sales gains and restocking. Silver jewellery production is projected to grow by 4 per cent in 2024, with volumes estimated to reach 211.3 million ounces (Moz). Weight in carats of the world’s largest lab-grown diamond (LGD) to date, produced by Ethereal Green Diamond LLP. Named “Celebration of India,” the square, emerald-cut Type IIA LGD with excellent polish and symmetry was analysed and graded by the International Gemological Institute (IGI). Celebration of India took about 270 days to grow to 190 carats and roughly 30 days to cut and polish to its final form, according to the company. 根据《2024年世界白银调查》，2023年最大银饰品的生产国。报告指出， 由于印度当地的银饰价格居高不下、库存补充有限，并面临进口产品的 竞争，该国去年的银饰生产量下跌了25%，但仍位列银饰生产国榜首。在 销售额上涨和补充库存的推动下，印度银饰生产今年有望恢复增长。银 饰产量预计将在2024年上升4%至2.113亿盎司(Moz)。 迄今为止世界上最大培育钻石(LGD) 的重量。这颗名为“Celebration of India”的方形祖母绿式切割LGD，是 Ethereal Green Diamond的出品，已 通过国际宝石学院(IGI)的分析和分 级，是一颗具有极佳抛光度和对称性 的IIA型LGD。该公司表示，Celebration of India花了大约270天的时间培育成 190克拉，且用了大约30天的时间切 割和抛光至最终形态。 India 印度 Top silver jewellery producers in 2023 2023年十大银饰品生产国 Source: World Silver Survey 2024, Metals Focus 资料来源︰Metals Focus——《2024 年世界白银调查》 75.33 carats 克拉 Rank排名 Country国家 2023 (Moz) 2022 (Moz) % change变化 1 India 印度 83.7 111.6 -25 2 Thailand 泰国 22.2 23.7 -6 3 Italy 意大利 21.1 21.8 -3 4 China 中国 16.2 17.1 -5 5 US 美国 11.2 12.8 -13 6 Türkiye 土耳其 6.9 7.2 -5 7 Indonesia 印度尼西亞 4.7 4.1 +13 8 Canada 加拿大 4.1 3.7 +11 9 Germany 德国 3.3 3.4 -5 10 Mexico 墨西哥 2.5 2.3 +6
FOCUS 焦点 10 | JNA July/August 2024 Artificial intelligence (AI) is making its presence felt in the gem and jewellery industry, with various applications at the ready to enhance grading, design, sales, marketing and operational efforts. Gemmological laboratories and technology solutions firms were early adopters. The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) first explored AI possibilities in 2020 when it partnered with IBM to develop a system for diamond clarity. Today, the GIA AI clarity system is fully deployed across all its laboratories worldwide and performs clarity grading for D-Z diamonds in ranges. Clear potential While it can grade diamonds of nearly all sizes and shapes, certain areas remain challenging for the machines, noted GIA Senior Vice President and Chief Operating Officer Pritesh Patel. The system thus works alongside highly trained and experienced gemmologists and graders who are involved in the clarity grading process to ensure optimal results, such as on very large stones and high clarity stones. The institute uses AI as well in its GIA Match iD device to authenticate inscriptions, and Patel said it could eventually be applied in other areas such as coloured stone identification. Treatment detection is however one field that will still require skilled interpretation of testing data by expert graders, gemmologists and scientists, he continued. “The integration of AI into our grading process has enhanced the speed and consistency of our processes while maintaining GIA’s stringent grading methodology. This builds on many previous technical innovations and advances in instrumentation to support the work of expert and experienced diamond graders,” said Patel. | Olivia Quiniquini 程爱莉 | Artificial intelligence is proving a useful tool in many sectors of the gem and jewellery trade, with much potential waiting to be tapped. The technology is however neither allencompassing nor foolproof and must be utilised with care and due diligence. 在宝石和珠宝贸易的许多领域中，人工智慧被 证实为一种有用的工具，而且有巨大的潜力等待发掘。然而，这项技术 既非完全适用，也非绝对可靠，因此必须小心谨慎地使用。 Prompting efficiencies in the jewellery world AI: 人工智慧： 人工智慧：提升珠宝行业效率 1 3 2 4
FOCUS 焦点 JNA July/August 2024 | 11 amethysts, danburites, kunzites and morganites – adorn a futuristic model in another digital illustration. “The key to successfully transferring the value of gemstones to AI design is to balance the aesthetic and symbolic qualities of gems with the specific goals of the design project,” the company noted. “AI can help to develop ideas and execute designs that capture the essence of gems while meeting the functional and aesthetic requirements.” Imaginative designs Proponents are present too in the fine jewellery space. One firm believer in the power of AI is Payal Shah, owner and designer of jewellery brand L’Dezen, who has been at the forefront of web3 innovations. Her journey into the world of AI began with a curiosity about how emerging technologies could revolutionise traditional industries. She was among the first in the jewellery trade to embrace non-fungible tokens or NFTs and has since been actively exploring how AI can enhance creativity and efficiency in the jewellery sector. “The potential of AI to transform various aspects of the jewellery business, from design to customer engagement, drew me towards its possibilities,” Shah explained. “I believe that mastering these technological skills provides a competitive edge, especially when competing with major brands that have extensive marketing budgets.” She uses AI-powered design software to generate new concepts and experiment with patterns and forms that may not be immediately intuitive. Text-to-image generators also help create mood boards to inspire design ideas. Actress Sienna Miller once requested Psylish, Shah’s contemporary jewellery brand, to create a necklace of her daughter’s signature. Using the Algoneeiring AI app, Shah turned the handwritten signature into a pendant design, which Miller confirmed immediately and wore to the Wimbledon Finals that year. In another instance, Shah resorted to the Replicate textto-image generative AI app to imagine L’Dezen’s Fifi earrings in different materials. AI-powered art generator Midjourney, meanwhile, stimulates her imagination, allowing her to visualise the mood of an upcoming campaign. “Current AI applications in jewellery design are quite advanced. They can produce wearable and realistic jewellery designs, often with a high degree of originality. But while AI can create impressive designs, the final touch and approval always come from our human designers to ensure the designs align with our brand’s aesthetic and quality standards,” she said. French jewellery firm Atelier Mille Or combines artisanal craftsmanship with advanced technologies like AI and computer-aided design to push the boundaries of creativity and precision in jewellery design. Co-Founder and General Manager Amine Messaoudi said, “AI enhances jewellery Gem possibilities In the coloured gemstone field, Gübelin Gem Lab has made significant strides with its AI-driven Gemtelligence platform. Since its February 2023 launch, the deep-learning system has helped gemmologists evaluate analytical data from rubies, blue sapphires and emeralds submitted to the lab. “By significantly reducing the human factor in the interpretation of the analytical data, Gemtelligence improves the consistency of our results. And by retrieving more information from a given set of analytical data, it also increases accuracy, namely the percentage of stones for which an origin can be confidently determined,” explained Daniel Nyfeler, managing director of Gübelin Gem Lab. Gemtelligence’s capabilities are now harnessed for a dedicated product, the Gem Passport service that offers origin and simplified treatment details of rubies, blue sapphires and emeralds. The system’s cost savings and greater efficiencies enable the lab to offer the new service for just CHF 200 (around US$224). “The underlying concept and structure of Gemtelligence, and its machine-learning architecture, comparing the performance of the software versus human experts, is scheduled to be published later this year in the prestigious scientific journal Nature,” said Nyfler. “We went through a long review process and are pleased to have this important piece of research published soon.” Buoyed by the gains from Gemtelligence, Gübelin Gem Lab is exploring further AI applications in coloured gemstone grading. Machine-learning technologies could possibly incorporate new data types, including imagery. Colour assessment though is a stumbling block. Nyfeler said, “We have not come across a convincing technology that is capable of reliably dealing with the complexity of a consistent, quantitative assessment of three-dimensional, transparent and anisotropic materials, which most gemstones are.” Branding exercise For German lapidarist Constantin Wild GmbH & Co KG, AI helped deliver a strong new brand identity that melds the enduring beauty of coloured gemstones and the possibilities of AI in the modern world. The result is Cyber Gem World, a series of AI-generated digital artworks that set spectacular coloured gemstones in striking fantasy worlds. In one, a yellow Sri Lankan sapphire is integrated into the jacket of a futuristic fashionista. Another graphic showcases a layout of blue aquamarines against a stylised pink-flamingo lady. Rare tourmalines lord over yet another image, while a suite of purple and pink gemstones – 1) ‘Cosmos’ jewel inspired by AI-suggested patterns by Atelier Mille Or; 2) Digital art from the AI-generated Cyber Gem World brand campaign of Constantin Wild GmbH & Co KG; 3) ‘Vitality’ ring inspired by AI-derived anatomical themes by Atelier Mille Or; 4) AI-derived design idea for an Infinity Motif pendant, from prompts by Payal Shah of L'Dezen 1) Atelier Mille Or的Cosmos珠宝，灵感来自人工智慧建议的 图案; 2) 使用人工智慧生成的数字艺术作品，来自 Constantin Wild GmbH & Co KG 的 Cyber Gem World品牌活动; 3) Atelier Mille Or的Vitality戒 指，靈感來自人工智慧生成解剖主題; 4) 根据L'Dezen的Payal Shah給予的提示词，并由人工智慧生成的Infinity Motif吊坠构思
FOCUS 焦点 12 | JNA July/August 2024 design by offering fresh, unexpected perspectives that might not emerge from traditional design processes alone.” AI tools such as Midjourney and Dall-E assist Atelier Mille Or in generating innovative design concepts and options based on specific themes, which it then refines and adapts using its artisanal experience. Its Cosmos Collection, inspired by AI-suggested patterns and forms, features intricate designs that mimic star constellations and celestial bodies. Its Vitality series, meanwhile, explores anatomical patterns such as heart motifs and organ structures. Messaoudi said consumers are increasingly interested in AI-assisted designs, appreciating the blend of modern technology with traditional craftsmanship. “The originality of AI suggestions lies in its ability to combine elements in novel ways, often resulting in unique and captivating designs,” he explained. “It can create highly personalised designs based on individual preferences, ensuring that each piece resonates deeply with the client.” Artistic balance Shiyamali Paranirupasingam, founder of pearl jewellery brand L’Amour Pearls, is another AI enthusiast. The technology permeates her business, from chatbots and AI-driven email campaigns at key touchpoints of the sales funnel to Augmented Reality (AR) try-on features for her online store and automated tasks to streamline operations and boost efficiency. She agrees that integrating AI in jewellery design offers exciting opportunities but underscores the need to maintain artistic integrity. “AI should augment human creativity rather than replace it, offering inspiration while leaving final design decisions to humans. The technology can generate designs based on patterns and data, but it might lack the unique, emotional connection of handcrafted pieces, potentially resulting in formulaic outcomes,” she said. Moreover, overdependence on AI and the reliance on extensive datasets could limit creativity and innovation. Collaboration among designers, artisans and manufacturers ensures AI-generated designs are practical and uphold traditional craftsmanship standards, she continued. Paranirupasingam’s is an informed perspective on the two worlds as she came to the jewellery industry after a 12-year career in technology across Canada and the UK. In 2022, she was acclaimed as one of the Top 25 Women in AI: Canada. As such, she is dedicated to transforming the pearl industry by integrating AI technology. “Given the labour-intensive nature of traditional pearl production, AI can significantly improve efficiency, quality and sustainability within the field. It particularly holds promise in grading and sorting pearls as well as in pearl cultivation,” Paranirupasingam said, adding she is eager to collaborate with pearl industry leaders, researchers and technologists to explore and implement AI solutions. Operational efficiencies Shah of L’Dezen also leverages AI in operations and retail, from AR try-ons to administrative efficiencies and enhanced productivity. Automation of routine tasks allows designers to focus more on creativity and less on administrative work, she noted. AI can yield valuable customer insights, Shah added. AI-assisted research determined her decision to not get into lab-grown diamonds, while a study of customer preferences for specific gemstones and metals led to a collection using recycled gold. The technology however comes with its own set of challenges. Jewellers must ensure privacy and security of the datasets needed for machine-learning. They should guard too against copyright and Intellectual Property infringements by adding sufficient originality to the final work, among other measures. AI likewise comes with a steep learning curve, necessitating a team that understands both jewellery design and AI technology. Shah is eager to share her learnings with the world. A list of 200 of her tried-and-tested and “frequently used” ChatGPT prompts is posted on her website for entrepreneurs to adopt in their marketing campaigns. “My focus on educating others about the potential of AI and web3 technologies is central to my mission. By sharing knowledge and insights, I hope to inspire fellow jewellers to embrace these transformative tools,” she remarked. Atelier Mille Or is likewise fully engaged in the AI cause, developing custom systems such as its “Professeur Joaillerie” application that arms its younger artisans with technical advice and best practices for jewellery production. It also offers AI jewellery design courses that cover the fundamentals of AI in design, practical applications and hands-on training. The most popular one is a 20-hour course on using different AI tools. “Our AI courses cater to a diverse audience, from aspiring designers to established jewellers and tech enthusiasts, as they empower participants to leverage AI in their creative endeavours,” Messaoudi said. “Designers should however ensure that the final products meet artistic, ethical and technical standards.” Sienna Miller wears Psylish necklace of her daughter’s signature, based on an AI-generated design (Picture courtesy of Payal Shah) Sienna Miller佩戴Psylish以人工智慧设计的项链，上面刻有她女儿 的签名(图片由Payal Shah提供)
FOCUS 焦点 JNA July/August 2024 | 13 人工智慧(AI)正在宝石和珠宝行业崭露头角，它的 应用对增强分级、设计、销售、市场行销和运营方 面起到了积极作用。 宝石实验室和科技咨询公司是较早的使用者。2020 年，GIA美国宝石硏究院与IBM合作开发钻石净度系统，首 次探索了人工智慧的可能性。如今，GIA的人工智慧净度系 统已在其全球所有实验室全面使用，可对D-Z级钻石进行净 度分级。 明确的潜力 GIA高级副主席兼首席运营官Pritesh Patel指出，尽管人 工智慧几乎可以对所有尺寸和形状的钻石进行分级，但某 些领域对它来说仍然具有挑战性。因此，该系统在经过高度 培训和经验丰富的宝石学家和评级员的监督下运作，以确 保在净度评级中，例如非常大的宝石和高净度的宝石得以 获得最佳结果。 该公司还在其GIA Match iD设备中使用人工智慧来鉴定 证书。Patel说，人工智慧最终还可以应用于其他领域，如彩 色宝石鉴定。不过，宝石处理检测仍然需要分级专家、宝石 学家和科学家对检测数据进行精准的解读。 Patel说：“将人工智慧整合到我们的分级流程中，提高了 我们的效率和一致性，同时保持了GIA严格的分级方法。这 是在以往许多技术创新和设备发展的基础上实现的，为经 验丰富的钻石分级专家的工作提供了支持。” 宝石的可能性 在彩色宝石领域，古宝琳宝石鉴定所凭借人工智慧驱动 的Gemtelligence平台取得了长足进步。自2023年2月推出以 来，该深度学习系统已帮助宝石学家评估了提交给鉴定所 的红宝石、蓝宝石和祖母绿的分析数据。 古宝琳宝石鉴定所的执行总监Daniel Nyfeler解释 说：“Gemtelligence大幅减少了分析数据解读过程中的人为 因素，从而提高了结果的一致性。通过从一组特定的分析数 据中检索出更多的信息，它还提高了准确性，即可以确定宝 石来源的百分比。” Gemtelligence的能力现已用于一项专门的服务，即宝石 护照服务，为客户提供红宝石、蓝宝石和祖母绿的原产地及 简化的加工处理详情。该系统节约了成本，提高了效率，使实 验室提供的这项新服务收费仅需200瑞士法郎(约224美元)。 Nyfeler补充道：“Gemtelligence的基本概念和结构及其 机器学习架构，比较了软件与人类专家的表现，将在今年稍后 时间发表在著名的科学期刊《自然》上。我们经历了漫长的审 核过程，很高兴这项重要的研究终于被接受，并即将发表。” 在Gemtelligence的成果鼓舞下，古宝琳宝石鉴定所正在 探索人工智慧在彩色宝石分级中的进一步应用。机器学习 技术有可能纳入新的数据类型，包括图像。 不过，颜色评估是一个难点。Nyfeler表示：“我们尚未发 现一种令人信服的技术，能够可靠地对三维、透明和多种材 料组成的宝石进行一致、定量的复杂分析，而大多数宝石都 是如此组成的。” 品牌实践 人工智慧帮助德国宝石切割公司Constantin Wild GmbH & Co KG打造了一个强大的新品牌形象，将彩色宝石的恒久 之美与人工智慧在现代世界的可能性融为一体，Cyber Gem World由此诞生。这是一系列由人工智慧生成的数字艺术作 品，将炫目的彩色宝石镶嵌在引人注目的奇幻世界中。 其中一幅作品中，一颗斯里兰卡黄色蓝宝石被镶嵌在一 位充满未来感的时尚达人的夹克中。另一幅图像展示了蓝 色海蓝宝石和以粉红色火烈鸟装扮的女士相互映照。稀有 的碧玺则是另一幅图像的主角，而一组紫色和粉红色的宝 石——紫水晶、丹泉石、紫锂辉石和摩根石则装饰了一位未 来派模特。 该公司指出：“要成功地将宝石的价值转移到人工智慧 设计中，关键是要在宝石的美学和象征意义，与设计项目的 具体目标之间取得平衡。人工智慧可以帮助开发创意和执 行设计，在满足功能和美学要求的同时抓住宝石的精髓。” 富有想象力的设计 在高级珠宝範疇，运用人工智慧的机会也比比皆是。珠 宝品牌L'Dezen的东主兼设计师Payal Shah，就是人工智慧力 量的坚定信仰者，她一直走在Web3创新的前沿。 Suite of pink and purple gemstones featured in the AI-generated Cyber Gem World brand campaign of Constantin Wild GmbH & Co KG 使用人工智慧生成的粉色和紫色宝石组图，来自Constantin Wild GmbH & Co KG的Cyber Gem World品牌活动 AI should augment human creativity rather than replace it, offering inspiration while leaving final design decisions to humans. - Shiyamali Paranirupasingam, founder of L'Amour Pearls
FOCUS 焦点 14 | JNA July/August 2024 她的人工智慧之旅始于对新兴技术如何彻底改变传统 行业的好奇心。她是珠宝行业中第一批接受非同质化代币 (NFTs)的人，此后一直在积极探索人工智慧怎样提高珠宝行 业的创造力和效率。 Shah解释说“: 人工智慧可以改变珠宝业务的方方面面， 从设计到客户参与，它的潜力吸引了我。我相信，掌握了这 些技术技能，就能获得竞争优势，尤其是在与拥有大量营销 预算的大品牌竞争时。” 她使用人工智慧驱动的设计软件来生成新概念，并尝试 采用那些不能马上直观的图案和形式。文本到图像生成器 还能帮助创建情绪板，激发设计灵感。 演员Sienna Miller曾请求Shah的当代珠宝品牌Psylish， 设计一条有她女儿签名的项链。Shah使用Algoneeiring人工 智慧应用程序，将手写签名变成了吊坠设计，Miller立刻认可 了这一设计，并戴着它参加了温布尔登网球决赛。 在另一个例子中，Shah借助Replicate文本到图像人工智 慧应用程序，想象出不同材质的L'Dezen的Fifi耳环。与此同 时，由人工智慧驱动的Midjourney也能激发她的想象力，让 她能够具体感受即将推出的活动氛围。 她说：“目前，人工智慧在珠宝设计中的应用已相当先 进。它们可以设计出可穿戴、逼真的珠宝首饰，而且往往具 有很高的原创性。不过，虽然人工智慧可以创造出令人印象 深刻的设计，但最后的润色和审批总是来自人类设计师，以 确保设计符合我们的品牌审美和质量标准。” 法国珠宝公司Atelier Mille Or将手工工艺与人工智慧和 计算机辅助设计等先进科技结合，突破珠宝设计于创意和 精确度的界限。联合创办人兼总经理Amine Messaoudi表 示：“人工智慧透过提供新颖、意想不到的视角来丰富珠宝 设计，这些视角可能无法仅从传统设计流程中获得。” Midjourney和Dall-E等人工智慧工具，能协助Atelier Mille Or按特定主题创作出新的设计概念和选项，然后以人手改 善和调整。其Cosmos系列获人工智慧建议的图案和形状启 发，采用模仿星座和天体的复杂设计；而其Vitality系列则以 解剖学角度探索心脏及其他器官的结构。 Messaoudi表示，消费者欣赏现代科技与传统工艺的融 合，因此对人工智慧辅助设计越来越感兴趣。他解释道：“人 工智慧的原创性，在于它能够以新颖的方式组合元素，从而 创作出独特且迷人的设计。它可按个人喜好生成极个性化 的设计，确保每件作品都能深得客户共鸣。” 艺术平衡 珍珠首饰品牌L'Amour Pearls的创始人Shiyamali Paranirupasingam是另一位人工智慧爱好者。从开展营销活 动的聊天机器人和人工智慧驱动的电子邮件，到扩增实境 (AR)试戴功能和自动化任务，人工智慧技术已渗透到她的业 务中的每一环，以简化日常运作并提高效率。 她也认为，将人工智慧融入珠宝设计提供了令人兴奋的 机遇，但强调需要保持艺术的完整性。她说：“人工智慧应该 增强人类的创造力，而不是取而代之，在提供灵感的同时将 最终的设计决定权留给人类。这项技术可以根据模式和数 据生成设计，但它可能缺乏手工作品独特的情感联系，或会 导致公式化的结果。” 此外，过度依赖人工智慧和大量数据集可能会限制创造 力和创新性。她继续说，设计师、工匠和制造商之间的合作 可以确保人工智慧生成的设计是实用的，并能坚持传统的 工艺标准。 Paranirupasingam在进入珠宝行业之前，于加拿大和英 国从事了12年的科技工作，所以对两个行业的看法颇有见 地。2022年，她被评为“加拿大人工智慧领域25位杰出女性” 之一。因此，她致力通过整合人工智慧技术来改变珍珠行业。 Paranirupasingam说：“鉴于传统珍珠生产属劳动密集 型，人工智慧可以显著提高该领域的效率、质量和可持续 性。它在珍珠分级、分拣及珍珠养殖方面尤其具有潜力。”她 还表示自己渴望与珍珠行业的领导者、研究人员和技术专 家合作，共同探索、应用人工智慧解决方案。 运营效率 L'Dezen公司的Shah还在运营和零售方面利用了人工智 慧，从AR试穿到提高行政效率和生产力。她指出，日常工作的 自动化可以让设计师将更多精力放在创意上，减少行政工作。 Shah补充说，人工智慧可以收集宝贵的客户反馈。人工 智慧辅助研究决定了她不涉足培育钻石；而另一项关于客 户对特定宝石和金属偏好的研究，则促成了她推出一个使 用回收黄金的系列。 可是，这项技术也带来了一系列挑战。珠宝商必须确保 系统学习所需数据集的隐私和安全。除其他措施外，他们还 应在最终作品中加入足够的原创内容，以防止侵犯版权和 知识产权。同样，人工智慧的学习过程也很曲折，需要一支 既懂珠宝设计又懂人工智慧技术的团队。 Shah渴望与全世界分享她的心得。她在自己的网站上 发布了一份清单，列出了200条她屡试不爽且“经常使用”的 ChatGPT提示词，供企业家们在营销活动中采用。 她说：“我的主要任务是向他人介绍人工智慧和Web3的 潜力。我希望通过分享知识和见解，激励珠宝商同仁拥抱这 些变革性的工具。” Atelier Mille Or同样重视人工智慧，公司开发Professeur Joaillerie应用程序等客制化系统，为年轻工匠提供珠宝制作 的技术建议和最佳实践方法。 Atelier Mille Or也提供人工智慧珠宝设计课程，一系列课 程涵盖人工智慧在设计和实际应用中的基础知识，以及实 践培训。当中最受欢迎的是有关使用不同人工智慧工具的 20小时课程。Messaoudi说：“我们的人工智慧课程迎合不同 对象，无论是新晋设计师、知名珠宝商抑或科技爱好者，都 能透过课程学习如何在创作中引入人工智慧。然而，设计师 应该确保最终产品符合艺术、道德和技术标准。” Fifi earrings with blue diamond slices by L'Dezen (top) and AIgenerated versions / L'Dezen的Fifi耳环(上)，镶嵌蓝钻;和人工智 慧生成的版本(Photo credit图片鸣谢:Payal Shah)
FOCUS 焦点 16 | JNA July/August 2024 Jewellery manufacturers, designers and brands are lifting the veil on versatile, flexible and convertible designs that display technical ingenuity at its finest. Offering several style offerings in a single piece adds novelty, value and character to jewellery. Brooches, which are enjoying a moment, make a good case for the multifunctional trend, doubling as pendants and, in some cases, even rings. Mix-and-match options are taking on new forms, while novel materials are making their way into bejewelled creations as well. The pun is likely intended in the Metamorphosis by De Beers high jewellery collection, released earlier this year. Its name alludes not only to its overarching theme of the change in the seasons but also the transformable nature of 20 of its diamond jewellery pieces. Céline Assimon, CEO of De Beers Jewellers, said, “We have experimented with bold volumes, graphic motifs and hidden details. Our focus on transformability and versatility reflects the fact that De Beers is a young house. High jewellery is the epitome of art and craftsmanship, but it should also be wearable and fun.” Multifaceted choices Italian jeweller Picchiotti subscribes to the notion of versatility, too. In 2016, it debuted its Xpandable™ line, which features an invisible technology that allows rings and bracelets to expand up to two sizes. Today, the collection’s design selections number around 400. “We like the idea of ‘jewellery that solves problems.’ With Xpandable™, we started a revolution that helps women around the world overcome the sizing and ring-fitting issues. We also empowered them with bracelets that do not have cumbersome clasps hence do not require assistance to be worn,” explained the brand’s marketing director Maria Carola Picchiotti. While options for stretchable and flexible jewellery have flourished in the market, she noted that Picchiotti’s original mechanism remains more complex and durable than most. | Olivia Quiniquini 程爱莉 | Jewellers push the envelope on creativity and innovation as collections incorporate inventive and practical touches that appeal to modern lifestyles and tastes. 珠宝商不断推出创意及实用兼备的珠宝系列，以迎合现代生活方式和品味。 creative transformations Jewellery’s 珠宝创意转型 1 2 3
FOCUS 焦点 JNA July/August 2024 | 17 Its 18-karat gold rings come in four sizes – small, medium, large and extra large, covering US size 4.5 to 10.5 – that can expand an additional three sizes, while the bracelets are available in small, medium and large. The brand’s three collections are the Serpenti line; the Cloud Nine range of eternity rings, nugget or ingot bands and gem-set bracelets; and the enamel assortment of rings, bracelets and pendants. Designs and gems can be further customised to client preferences and budgets. For instance, the jewellery can be partially or fully lined with diamonds or coloured gemstones. Customers can also provide the gems to be fitted in the pieces. Wholesale prices start from US$1,000 per ring and US$3,000 per bracelet. “Retailers can get a starter package for the brand and offer several sizes with at least five rings and a couple of bracelets,” said Andrea. “They can also choose to include the pieces in their own collection or private label. We can create special styles for them and even laser inscribe their brand in the jewellery.” Ceramic possibilities Japanese jeweller Crossfor Co Ltd, which made headlines with its patented Dancing Stone mechanism where a single stone is suspended mid-air in a perennially moving state, also continues to break new ground. Its Shimmering Stone technique, for one, produces greater movement and twinkle by hanging from a single hook, as opposed to the Dancing Stone’s two swing-like posts. This makes the stone continually swing up and down and left to right, making it ideal for delicate designs. Now, Crossfor is heading into ceramic territory, combining the material with its popular jewellery products such as its tennis-bracelet chains that can fit 1.5mm or 2.7mm stones for myriad stylish combinations. Its ceramic rings are available in black and white. The Gold Crown ceramic rings come with a pin to create pearl, coloured gemstone or diamond solitaires. The Gold Eternity ceramic ring is either partially or fully encircled by the company’s tennis-bracelet chain, while the Gold Last year, Picchiotti debuted its Reversible Xpandable™ Collection, consisting of bracelets, rings and necklaces that can be flipped over to reveal a different design. And it is doubling down on its creative ventures with its new FourFace Bracelet that adds yet another innovative element to the Xpandable™ and Reversible technologies. Launched this May, the bracelet consists of 13 parallelepipeds, each with four sides sporting different styles: A striped, yellow-gold face; a diamond-set face; a green mother-of-pearl face and a white mother-of-pearl face, making for endless combinations. “Our Reversible jewellery pieces are versatile and wearable, allowing women to change the style according to their mood, outfit and circumstance. This is really the inspiration behind these jewellery lines. We aim to empower women to choose how they wear their jewellery at any given time,” said Maria Carola. Gem ceramic is also figuring more in Picchiotti’s jewellery range because of its vast array of colours. “Furthermore, it is relatively simple to shape and can be easily inlaid with colours and precious stones. The look is crisp, sharp and fresh,” she added. Stretching the limits Over at Masi Gioielli, a proprietary technique using titanium springs powers its brand of adjustable and expandable jewellery. According to Co-Founder Andrea Masi, the company started developing the project in 2014, aiming to produce flexible rings and bracelets so women do not have to resize their jewellery when it no longer fits. “Steel used to be the main metal for such concepts. But we ultimately decided on titanium for the stretchable springs since it is lighter, stronger, largely waterproof and more hypoallergenic,” said Andrea. Masi Gioielli perfected the technique; covered it with patents in the main markets of Europe, Asia and the US; and presented it under its brand, Onesize Jewels. The jewellery was first introduced in 2020 but the full range was launched this year, garnering interest from China, India, the United Arab Emirates and Malaysia, among other markets. 4 5 6 1) Ceramic jewellery by Crossfor Co Ltd; 2) Embroidered butterfly brooch with coloured gemstones by La broderie; 3) Reversible turquoise and mother-of-pearl earrings with diamonds by Picchiotti; 4) Stretchable enamel ring with diamonds by Onesize Jewels; 5) Stretchable coloured gemstone bracelets by Onesize Jewels; 6) Xpandable™ bracelet with turquoise, ceramic and diamonds by Picchiotti; 1) Crossfor Co Ltd的陶瓷首饰; 2) La broderie的刺绣蝴蝶胸针，镶嵌彩色宝石; 3) Picchiotti的可反转式耳环，镶嵌绿松石、珍珠母和钻石; 4) Onesize Jewels的可 伸缩式珐琅镶钻戒指; 5) Onesize Jewels的可伸缩式彩色宝石手链; 6) Picchiotti的Xpandable™手链，镶嵌绿松石丶陶瓷和钻石
FOCUS 焦点 18 | JNA July/August 2024 Ring with ceramic is coiled with gold. Also available are ceramic Floating Stone rings as well as ceramic posts for pearl earrings. “Since gold prices are currently quite high, we decided to offer ceramic options for jewellers seeking affordable components for their products,” disclosed Crossfor Co Ltd Senior Sales Manager Gloria Au. “They can mix and match colours and incorporate elements such as our chain or stones or pins of various colours to produce an entire collection with just a few items.” Prices for Crossfor’s ceramic jewellery products range from US$20 to US$100, with a minimum order quantity of 20 pieces per design and category. Taking flight Embroidery takes pride of place at niche jewellery brand La broderie, which was founded by Diana Wong, owner of Hong Kong-based Verde Jewellery. To create La broderie’s enchanting butterfly and other nature-inspired brooches and pendants, frames in 18-karat gold are filled in with meticulously handwoven embroidery crafted by an embroidery master skilled in Chinese and French techniques. The vivid jewellery pieces are further embellished with diamonds and coloured gemstones. Sizes, designs, adornments and materials can all be tailored to client requirements. According to Wong, the artist started learning Chinese embroidery techniques at the age of five and then studied French tradition at the school that produces embroidery for Chanel. Her work is a uniquely crafted blend of East and West that imbue La broderie’s creations with an additional air of elegance and sophistication. “Chinese embroidery uses mostly silk thread, while French embroidery adds beads and texture. While there are plenty of butterfly-themed jewellery pieces in the market, ours are extremely dynamic and superbly crafted. They are often mistaken for paintings or calligraphy since they are surprisingly three-dimensional and very neatly done. The pattern appears distinctly on both sides of the embroidery,” said Wong. She noted that a tremendous amount of time, effort and precision went into developing the manufacturing technique for La broderie jewellery. For instance, a single butterfly brooch required several attempts to perfect the thickness of the body, the placement of the attachments and the structure of the frame to make the piece wearable and ensure it can hold the embroidery and the gems properly. “Beyond creativity and innovation, the design or concept must be realistic and functional to be successful. Craftsmanship is of extreme importance. We listen closely to customer feedback on our pieces and make sure they are not only ingenious but also practical and comfortable,” declared Wong. 珠宝制造商、设计师和品牌纷纷推出灵活多变的珠 宝设计，展现非凡技术。 可转换成不同款式的单件珠宝既新颖又独 特，时下流行的胸针就是极佳例子，它既可作吊坠配戴，有 时甚至可被当成戒指。多功能珠宝势不可挡，搭配方式及材 料不断推陈出新。 戴比尔斯的Metamorphosis高级珠宝系列恰如其名，主 题围绕季节变化，并聚焦系列中20件钻饰的多变本质。 戴比尔斯珠宝公司首席执行官Céline Assimon表示：“我 们尝试从大体积、抽象图形及隐藏细节等方面着手。我们注 重设计的可变性和多功能特质，以凸显戴比尔斯作为年轻 品牌的魅力。高级珠宝彰显艺术和工艺，但同时它们也该易 于配衬且饶富趣味。” 一体多面 意大利珠宝商Picchiotti亦认同多功能珠宝的概念。品牌 于2016年推出的Xpandable™系列采用隐形技术，让戒指和 手链最多可自由调大两个尺码。系列如今已拥有约400款 设计。 Embroidered butterfly brooch with diamonds by La broderie La broderie的刺绣蝴蝶镶钻胸针 Four-Face bracelet from Picchiotti's Reversible Xpandable™ Collection / Picchiotti Reversible Xpandable™ 系列的四面手链
FOCUS 焦点 JNA July/August 2024 | 19 “我们热爱‘珠宝能解决问题’的理念。我们的 Xpandable™系列为世界各地女性掀起了一场革命，帮助 她们克服戒指尺寸不符的问题，我们又创作出无需他人协 助也可自行佩戴的无扣手镯。”品牌市场总监Maria Carola Picchiotti解释道。 尽管可延伸及具弹性设计的珠宝于市场上蔚然成风，但 Maria Carola表示，Picchiotti的原始操作仍比大部分的珠宝 设计更复杂和耐用。 去年，Picchiotti推出了Reversible Xpandable™系列，包 括反转时会呈现不同设计的手镯、戒指和项链。品牌今年5 月推出的四面手链同时运用Xpandable™及Reversible技术， 手链由13个平行六面体组成，每个平行六面体有四个侧面， 分别缀有黄金条纹、钻石、绿色及白珍珠母。 Maria Carola说：“我们的Reversible首饰用途广泛且易 于佩戴，让佩戴者可按个人心情、衣著及环境改变风格。这 确实是这些珠宝系列的创作初衷。我们希望可以让佩戴者 随时都能够转换配戴方式。” 陶瓷珠宝色彩丰富，在Picchiotti的珠宝系列中地位日 增。Maria Carola指：“陶瓷珠宝造型较简单，可轻易上色和 嵌入宝石，外观亦较利落清新。” 突破极限 Masi Gioielli运用钛弹簧专利技术制作出可调式及可延 伸的珠宝，据创办人之一Andrea Masi称，公司于2014年开 始制作可调式戒指和手链，方便佩戴者自由调整尺寸。 Andrea说：“此类产品过往多以钢铁制造，但因钛金属 更轻、更坚固、大致防水且较防敏，我们最终决定使用它制 作弹簧。” Masi Gioielli完善了这项技术，在欧洲、亚洲和美国主要 市场取得专利，并于2020年以Onesize Jewels之名将首批珠 宝推出市面，今年更推出整套系列，获得了中国、印度、阿联 酋和马来西亚等市场的青睐。 Masi Gioielli的18K金戒指备有四种尺寸，分别为小号、 中号、大号和超大号，即美国尺寸的4.5至10.5号，可自由扩 大三个尺码，而手链则备有小号、中号和大号可供选择。 品牌共设三个系列，分别为Serpenti系列、Cloud Nine系 列及珐琅系列。Cloud Nine系列包含永恒戒指、以金块或金 锭组成的戒指及镶宝石手链，而珐琅系列则包含各款戒指、 手镯和吊坠。 Masi Gioielli的设计和宝石可按客户喜好和预算进一步 客制化。例如，珠宝可局部或全部镶嵌钻石或彩色宝石，客 户更可自备宝石镶于作品中。戒指批发价每枚1,000美元 起，手镯批发价每只3,000美元起。 Andrea说：“零售商可入手品牌的入门套装，当中包 含至少五款戒指和数款手镯，尺寸不一。他们也可以选 择将这些款式纳入自家品牌，或交由我们为其创作特 殊款式，甚至可安排在珠宝上以激光刻上品牌名称。” 创意陶瓷 日本珠宝商Crossfor Co Ltd以其专利Dancing Stone 设计闻名，设计亮点为悬浮半空闪烁不停的单颗宝石。公 司力求创新，譬如Dancing Stone两旁的支撑，现已改良成 Shimmering Stone的单钩设计，使得宝石不断上下左右摆 动，较大的摆动幅度让宝石更闪烁，让设计更精致。 Crossfor并以陶瓷重新演绎品牌最受欢迎的珠宝设计， 如可密镶直径1.5至2.7毫米宝石的网球手链，让组合更变化 多端。其陶瓷戒指备有黑白两色可选：Gold Crown陶瓷戒指 设有托针，可镶入单颗珍珠、彩色宝石或钻石。Gold Eternity 陶瓷戒指部分或整枚铺以密镶宝石，而Gold Ring陶瓷戒指 则缀有一圈黄金。品牌另设Floating Stone戒指及陶瓷托珍 珠耳环。 Crossfor Co Ltd高级销售经理Gloria Au透露：“由于目前 金价高企，我们为珠宝商提供价格较相宜的陶瓷首饰，可搭 配不同颜色，并结合我们的链条、宝石或各种颜色的托针， 轻易创作出整个系列。” Crossfor陶瓷首饰价格从20美元到100美元不等，每款 设计和类别最少订购20件。 栩栩如生 小众珠宝品牌La broderie以刺绣为卖点，与扎根香港的 Verde Jewellery同由Diana Wong所创立。La broderie的胸针 和吊坠以蝴蝶等自然元素为灵感，18K金框架上饰以手工刺 绣，由精通中国和法国刺绣技术的大师精心打造，栩栩如生 的作品再缀上钻石和彩色宝石。尺寸、设计、装饰和材料可 按客户需求度身定造。 据Diana指，品牌的刺绣艺术家从5岁开始学习中国刺绣 技术，其后入读为香奈儿制作刺绣的学校，进修法国传统。 她的作品融合中西文化，为La broderie的创作注入优雅精 致的气息。 Diana说：“中国刺绣主要使用丝线，而法国刺绣则添加 珠子和纹理。虽然市面充斥大量以蝴蝶为主题的珠宝首饰， 但我们的珠宝首饰却匠心独运。因作品玲珑浮突且做工整 齐，两面的刺绣图案均清晰可见，常被误当成画作或书法。” 她指出，La broderie的刺绣花费大量时间及精力，譬如 一枚蝴蝶胸针需经反覆试验以达致最佳厚度、装饰摆放位 置和框架结构，以确保刺绣及镶石牢固且佩戴舒适。 Diana指：“除了创意，设计还需切合实际用途才算成功， 因此工艺便变得尤关重要。我们仔细 聆听客户意见，确保我们的作品 不仅设计巧妙，而且实用舒适。” Ceramic Floating Stone rings by Crossfor Co Ltd Crossfor Co Ltd的 Floating Stone陶瓷戒指 Stretchable nugget ring with diamonds by Onesize Jewels; Embroidered butterfly brooch with diamonds by La broderie Onesize Jewels的可伸缩式金块镶 钻戒指；La broderie的刺绣蝴蝶镶 钻胸针
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