34 | JNA January/February 2024 MARKET WATCH 市场观察 英国珠宝市场尽管面临后疫情时期的压力和政经 现况的不确定性，但各个领域依然茁壮成长。越 来越多消费者视购买珠宝为一种对美好生活的 追求，因此不论商业街的连锁店、国际品牌、独立珠宝店以 至高订设计师，都对前景抱持乐观态度。 市场对订制珠宝、限量版设计和个性化服务的需求日增， 推动行业蓬勃发展。虽然部分珠宝仍属于小众品味，但是一 系列精致无比的当代设计，都能满足这个增长领域的需求。 另外，客制化和个性化产品不仅限于高档次市场，就连 商业街的零售商在疫情前也开始改变产品和市场策略，这 样做主要是为了应对国际品牌自设专卖店，从而减少或停 止分销至英国本地零售商的趋势。例如，丹麦品牌潘多拉已 在英国开设277家门市，其中包括伦敦牛津街的全新概念 店，这是该品牌在英国这条购物大街开设的第三家店铺。 零售转型 零售商为了填补品牌珠宝产品和服务的空白，重投以往 的价值体系。在这体系中，制作个性化的定制珠宝是常态， 而家庭式珠宝商则是人们的生活、喜庆日子，甚至是情感中 不可或缺的一部分。 创立于1856年的家族珠宝零售商F.Hinds，在英格兰和 威尔斯拥有116家分店，规模在英国首屈一指。该品牌推出 客制化设计和穿耳服务，其VIP会员计画Love Hinds也大获 成功，将个性化服务提升到新的水平。 “市场上的转变促使我们的管理架构趋向扁平化，令 高级员工有机会同时接触商店和线上业务。”执行总监Paul Hinds分享道。“此外，公司对员工的投资已成为建立忠诚度 的关键因素。” 经典贵金属珠宝是F.Hinds的畅销款式。从4.95英镑 (约6.20美元)的银耳环到超过1,000英镑(约1,253美元)的优 质单颗钻石戒指，各种价位的产品都需求强劲。 然而，业务增长的主要动力在于研发创新设计，还有与 优秀的第三方品牌合作。Paul透露：“如果产品设计吸引、 品质佳而且价格具竞争力，那么我们会乐于出售。” 客制化潮流 为自己选购珠宝的女性消费者，尤其是30至60岁的年龄 族群，是带动客制需求的主要力量。婚庆珠宝是另一个热门 范畴。此外，结婚多年的夫妇也会以委托设计的方式，制作 独特的首饰礼品，庆贺人生里程碑。 A walk down London’s Hatton Garden, the go-to place for engagement and bridal jewels, reveals a wide presence of lab-grown diamonds. “Lab-grown is very popular and we offer them because demand is strong,” a salesperson at a large diamond chain store in Hatton Garden said. Though prices of lab-grown diamonds have been declining, it is still in the fine jewellery category. Even independents selling to high-net-worth customers are opting for lab-grown, especially if the request is for colour, notably yellow and pink stones for high-end jewellery. Tarcinale said, “Lab-grown diamonds resonate with consumers and offer more possibilities in terms of sizes and shapes for designers to work with.” Pearls are also an important growth sector, with specialist pearl retailers reporting unprecedented demand. Yoko London, which recently opened a multi-storey plush store in London, confirmed demand in the capital and across the UK is robust, particularly for modern daily-wear collections with high-quality Akoya and freshwater pearls. CEO Michael Hakimian said bestsellers are designs that appeal to women of all ages, noting “It is not unusual for daughter, mother and grandmother to shop together.” Self-purchase is solid while requests for bespoke with larger sizes in unique natural colours are increasing. Industry downside A drawback to expanding overall design offer is restrictions on jewellery wear in the workplace, written into employment contracts. This takes a big chunk off demand and tends to keep the overall jewellery offer conservative, observed Tarcinale. Brexit had a definite negative impact, she continued. A number of goldsmiths and craftspeople moved back to their home cities in Europe while some independents lost high-net-worth clients who left post-Brexit and now find importing jewellery too cumbersome. Importing and exporting are now more bureaucratic and expensive because of costly carnets and value-added tax (VAT). The latter does get refunded many months later. Despite these challenges, overall outlook is good and most industry players are optimistic that the UK jewellery market will continue to show substantial growth this year. If the product has appeal, is good quality and offers keen value, then we will show it – Paul Hinds, managing director, F.Hinds F.Hinds store F.Hinds 珠宝店
RkJQdWJsaXNoZXIy NjAxOTU=