JNA January/February 2024 | 33 MARKET WATCH 市场观察 Stag brooch by Danila Tarcinale Danila Tarcinale的 “雄鹿”胸针 However, main growth drivers are innovative designs and strong third-party brands that the company constantly embraces. “If the product has appeal, is good quality and offers keen value, then we will show it,” Paul disclosed. Customised creations Demand for bespoke is primarily driven by women – particularly those in their 30s to 60s – choosing and buying for themselves as well as bespoke bridal and gift commissions from mature couples celebrating milestones with unique pieces. London’s Benjamin Hawkins is among the designers riding this wave. “Clients are passionate about these commissions and are willing to wait for their dream piece,” he noted. Some pieces can take up to two years to complete, and price points could vary from £5,000 (around US$6,267) to £350,000 (around US$438,700), Hawkins added. Clients are quite invested in the design journey and may even bring a mood board to initial meetings, revealed Jennifer Bloy, a goldsmith and designer specialising in hand-rendered designs. A few may request outlandish creations but most want contemporary pieces, preferably gender-fluid that a partner or significant other may wear in a different way. Designer and master goldsmith Ingo Henn agrees that some couples request bespoke pieces that can be shared and worn differently, perhaps as a pendant for her and as a brooch for him or a piece with a detachable component for the partner. His creations for his brand, Henn of London, feature extraordinary fine gemstones and his signature enameled and hand-engraved patterns created in collaboration with the city’s craftsmen. Designers agree that strong collaboration among trades – goldsmiths, setters, engravers and enamellers – contributes to the industry’s dynamism and keeps jewellery crafts alive. Among the UK’s rich heritage of industry support is The Goldsmiths’ Company, the Goldsmiths’ Fair and the Goldsmiths’ Centre. These plus a robust apprenticeship system focused on working with masters have enriched the jewellery landscape. Most of the amazing work is, however, happening under the radar. Jewellery designer Danila Tarcinale, chair of the Institute of Professional Goldsmiths that has a membership of more than 200 that create exceptional bespoke, laments that most creations are not in the public eye. “We want to bring these small independent makers to centre stage and push for them to reach a younger clientele too,” she said. Sustainable jewels An important trend in bespoke is remaking family heirlooms, a growth segment for young people too who, in addition to reworking inherited jewellery, buy vintage pieces for rehashing. This trend seamlessly ties into their ethos of “re-love, recycle and up-cycle,” observed Tarcinale. “Young people are leading the shift to ethical buying and the demand for material provenance.” Lab-grown diamonds have become a big part of the sustainable story, and many retailers are offering collections. Trending in the UK Metals: White metals are popular. Silver is much favoured and a mainstay of the industry. White gold is in high demand, though yellow gold is showing a recent increase as is rose gold. Gold from a single mine is gaining in popularity as is recycled gold from industry waste. Gender fluid: Teenagers and Gen Z consumers are demanding and buying gender-fluid jewellery, particularly necklaces in silver or with pearls. Men’s jewellery: Witnessing robust growth, this category is defined by strong masculine designs with black diamonds, jet and oxidised metals. More men are also buying and wearing pearls. Yoko London confirms that over the past two years, there has been a surge in sales to men, notably of classic freshwater strands as well as bolder strands with large pearls in various colours and baroque shapes. Ear curation and piercing parties: The market is tapping into the huge growth potential of this segment, with many retailers setting up secluded spaces that are equipped with very sophisticated piercing systems and hosting parties. Women and girls view these events as boundary-pushing change since, less than two decades ago, pierced earrings were considered “unladylike,” and clip-ons were the norm. Piercings are now extremely popular, too. Permanent jewellery: The new buzz, this involves having the ends of a piece laser-welded around the wrist, neck, fingers or ankles as permanent body jewels. Online sales: E-commerce is rapidly increasing, and more jewellers continue to sell online post-pandemic. Sales to visitors: Non-residents are a good growth segment, particularly in areas frequented by tourists. Shops and brands on London’s New Bond Street reported vibrant business while luxury department stores such as Harrods and Selfridges are expanding their designer jewellery offerings to capitalise on the huge influx of visitors.
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