32 | JNA January/February 2024 MARKET WATCH 市场观察 Retail shift To fill the vacuum in brand offerings, retailers shifted to an older value system where bespoke and personalisation were the norm and the family jeweller was an integral part of life, celebration and even emotional wellbeing. F.Hinds, a family-owned business since 1856 and one of the largest retailers with 116 stores across England and Wales, has taken personalised service to a new level with sections for bespoke design, ear piercings and a successful VIP scheme, Love Hinds. “With market changes, we evolved into a very flat management structure, keeping senior staff extremely close to the ground and in touch with both high street and online developments,” managing director Paul Hinds commented. “Investing in staff became the most important factor to build loyalty.” For F.Hinds, high performers are classic styles in precious metals. There is good demand across the board, from silver earrings starting at £4.95 (around US$6.20) to its exceptional range of diamond solitaire rings above £1,000 (around US$1,253). Despite post-pandemic pressures and current economic and political uncertainties, the jewellery market in the United Kingdom is growing and there is strong vibrancy across all segments. From high street chains and international brands to independents and couture designers, the mood is optimistic as more consumers make jewellery-buying a precious lifestyle experience. Demand for bespoke jewels, limited editions and personalisation is driving the jewellery scene in the UK, and a lot of exceptionally fine contemporary jewels are being made – albeit sometimes under the radar – that effectively services this growth segment. The move to bespoke and personalisation is not limited to higher market tiers. High street retailers, even prior to the pandemic, started to transform offerings and presence, mainly in response to international brands opening own stores and reducing or withdrawing offerings through local retailers. Danish brand Pandora, for instance, has expanded to 277 stores in the UK, including a new concept store on London’s Oxford Street, its third store on the country’s busiest shopping street. | Jennifer Henricus | Bespoke offerings, personalisation and sustainable narratives inject vibrancy into the UK jewellery market as retailers, designers and brands adjust to market shifts and evolving consumer preferences. 珠宝零售商、设计师和品牌纷纷 推出个性化客制服务和可持续发展方针，以迎合不断蜕变的英国珠宝市场和消费者喜好。 窥探英国市场新面向 Tapping growth segments in THE UK MARKET Flagship store of Yoko London; pendant and brooch by Henn of London; Pandora’s third concept store on London’s Oxford Street; front and underside of the Starry Night ring by Benjamin Hawkins; Hatton Garden jewellery district, London / Yoko London的旗舰店; Henn of London的吊坠及胸针; 潘多拉位于伦敦牛津街的第三家 概念店; Benjamin Hawkins的“星夜”戒指的正面和底部; 珠宝店云集的伦敦哈顿花园区
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