JNA January/February 2024 | 23 DESIGN设计 3) Rose jewel by Grace of Art Co Ltd; 4) Galaxy stacking rings by Geoffrey Good; 5) Ring by Shavarsh Hakobian 3) Grace of Art Co Ltd的玫瑰珠宝; 4) Geoffrey Good的Galaxy叠戴戒指; 5) Shavarsh Hakobian的戒指 Natural fixation 大自然之美 Nature continues to be an endless font of inspiration. Flora and fauna motifs remain ubiquitous but exhibit more contemporary flair, either showing more intricate details or adopting greater abstraction and fluidity. Butterflies are especially popular, and underwater themes are dominating high jewellery brands’ collections. 大自然是永不枯竭的灵感泉源。动植物元素仍 然无处不在，但作品更富现代感，有些呈现更繁 复的细节，有些则採用抽象和流动的线条。蝴蝶 造型尤其大受欢迎，而海洋主题更在高级珠宝 品牌中佔据主导地位。 Digital interlude 数字插曲 Jewellery alludes to the world’s digital dimension through prints, textures and techniques. Pixelated graphics and social connectivity are recreated through mesh accents in precious metal, elaborate filigree, woven gold designs and netted diamond details. 珠宝设计透过各种图案、纹理和技巧展现数字 维度。贵金属网状装饰、精致的金银掐丝、编织 金质设计和网状钻石细节，呈现像素化图形和 隐喻社群网路的联系。 Gender fluid 性别流动 Perhaps the most socially relevant design direction of these times, gender-fluid jewellery creations speak to the discourse on diversity and inclusivity that has gained ground in recent years. But more than a social issue, this design aesthetic acknowledges changing consumer preferences where gender no longer confines taste. The approach is likewise different, with designers setting out to specifically create jewellery that would appeal to both men and women. This contrasts significantly from men’s jewellery that women may also like and wear, and vice versa. 性别流动的珠宝作品或许是当今最具社会意义的设计趋势，体现 了近年来有关多样性和包容性的流行论述。但这项设计美学不仅 是一个社会议题，也确认了消费者喜好的变化，以及性别不再限 制品味的真缔。设计师看待珠宝的角度也变得截然不同，开始创 作出对男女皆有吸引力的中性珠宝。过往女性可能会喜欢佩戴 某些男士首饰，反之亦然，但与性别流动珠宝在本质上大相迳庭。 3 4 5
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