MARKET INTELLIGENCE 市场情报 76 | JNA September/October 2023 红宝石令人联想到爱情、力量与朝气，颜色由粉红 色到广受欢迎的深红色不等。产自缅甸传奇摩谷 地区的红宝石，吸引了全球收藏家、珠宝商和皇 室成员的注目与欣赏。 大多数摩谷红宝石呈现备受追捧的鸽血红，加上其稀有 度和历史意义，价格始终高踞环球市场。 莫桑比克也成为了重要的红宝石产地，品质可媲美缅 甸。重达55.22克拉的莫桑比克红宝石Estrelade Fura堪称焦 点瑰宝，并于纽约苏富比以3,480万美元成交，创下红宝石和 彩色宝石的世界拍卖纪录。这点进一步巩固了莫桑比克红 宝石在全球市场上的显赫名声。 越南红宝石同样备受注目。古宝琳宝石鉴定所为一颗 6.91克拉的未经加热处理越南红宝石“Red Treasure”授 予鸽血红等级，提交者为第三代越南宝石商Phuong Thu Lê。摩谷红宝石经销商Silken East Co Ltd的第五代主理人 Miemie Tin Htut表示：“这颗6.91克拉的越南红宝石，色泽有 如摩谷著名Baw Lone Gyi矿出产的荧光艳彩鸽血红。” 市场需求 红宝石在业界的前景依然灿烂。业内人士指出，顶级红 宝石将继续受到珠宝品牌和独立设计师追捧。 China Stone Ltd首席执行官兼创始人Li Chongjie解释 说：“随着越来越多设计师和专业珠宝商钟情于红宝石，一 流红宝石的需求已变得更加炽热。此外，价格更实惠的商业 级红宝石则用于量产珠宝。这项合乎预算的选择供应稳定， 而且拥有更大的用户群。” China Stone主要为优质红宝石进行切割，商业级红宝石 为副产品。 “随着买家大量投资彩宝，高档和中档红宝石的需求 现在最为强劲。”Navneet Gems and Minerals董事Navneet Agarwal评论道。 所有产地的优质红宝石价格都居高不下。Eighth Dimension Gems负责人Jeffery Bergman表示，莫桑比克红 宝石的升势尤其明显。过去几年，莫桑比克红宝石的产量、平 均尺寸和品质一直在下降，令宝石级红宝石更加稀缺。他表 示，优质莫桑比克红宝石的价格在过去两年至少上升了50%。 “Dealers are being forced to source fine stones from secondary markets such as estates and auctions. The recent Artcurial auction in Monaco is a good example, with a 7.1-carat unheated Burmese ruby selling for US$3.3 million, approximately US$459,000 per carat, which is nearly 12 times the pre-auction estimate,” he added. There is also growing interest in rubies from Vietnam, Afghanistan, Mozambique and Madagascar in Africa, and Thailand. Bergman sees growth opportunities in rubies from alternative sources such as the Jegdalek ruby mine in Afghanistan and mines in Vietnam. “Good-quality rubies from such sources are visually indistinguishable from fine Burmese goods since these all come from marble-host geological formations that are quite similar – a key feature being high chromium and low iron content resulting in a strong red UV reaction,” explained Bergman. Despite visual and gemmological similarities, Afghan and Vietnamese rubies are selling roughly 20 per cent to 30 per cent lower than Burmese rubies, leaving plenty of room for prices to rise in a few years. According to Li, traders also face rising costs of rough stones as well as increased labour, shipping and insurance expenses compared to pre-Covid levels. Agarwal added that supply shortage has become a huge problem. He noted, “Most dealers are not able to get supply from the open market due to the quality rough being short in the mines.” Bergman said high-volume jewellery manufacturers are finding it more difficult to fulfil orders for unheated rubies, hence a rise in the trade of heated goods. He said this practice is more acceptable in the American and European markets compared to China. Trends and innovation Designers are increasingly combining rubies with unconventional design elements to add a fresh twist to a jewellery piece. Ear climbers, cuffs, coil rings and safety pins studded with rubies give these traditionally luxurious red gems a more contemporary allure. This creative approach highlights the beauty of rubies and allows for greater versatility in how they can be worn, stacked and styled. Designers like Francesca Villa add a playful spin to the classic ruby and diamond combination with fun caricatureinspired essex crystals. Dubai-based jewellery brand Savolinna, for its part, crafted an ear cuff with marquiseshaped rubies set in 18-karat gold and black rhodium coating for an extra dramatic, edgier look. Designers are also experimenting with non-traditional cuts such as portrait, hexagon shapes and other intricate geometries to add a distinctive touch to ruby jewellery. Rubies are set alongside non-traditional gems such as pink opal to create captivating contrasts as shown in GYAN Jaipur’s debut Jaipur collection. Private jeweller Kamyen Jewellery, meanwhile, is not afraid to combine red on red with portrait-cut rubies, elevated with red chrome metal and ruby accents. Ear cuff with marquise-shaped rubies in 18-karat gold with black rhodium coating by Savolinna; Polished rubies Savolinna黑色镀铑18K金耳骨夹，镶嵌橄榄形红宝石；已打磨红宝石
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