INNOVATION 创新科技 JNA September/October 2023 | 23 以贵金属粉末直接打印首饰的革命性数字技术，终 于在业内大放异彩。经过十多年的仔细研究、大 规模投资、业者鼎力支持，以及在供应链上的知 识转移，一众先驱都引以为傲——不少国际珠宝品牌和设计 师，都通过3D 打印技术拥抱其产品的创新和差异化潜力。 直接金属首饰打印技术，是通过一种称为增材制造 (Additive Manufacturing) 的技术来实现，过程中利用激光束熔 化雾化贵金属粉末，在专用平台和支架上构建计算机辅助 设计 (CAD) 首饰，是一项为产品添上贵重材质的严格制造 过程。 该项工艺被赋予不同的标签和缩写，包括激光金属熔 合 (LMF)、激光束粉末床熔合 (PBF-LB) 和选择性激光熔化 (SLM) 技术。 提供打印或构建服务的公司，通常都是贵金属合金制造 商和供应商。他们与经认证的增材制造机器生产商合作，于 企业内部建立相关设施。这些公司自家开发贵金属合金、雾 化粉末、开发基板和支架，并聘请内部工程师和技术专家来 管理整个流程，当中包括回收和精炼金属，以减少浪费且大 大提升可持续水平。 生产商和设计师都一致认为，铂金于增材制造方面表现 最理想，尤其是因为铸造铂金会出现孔隙等问题。然而，从 生产数量来看，金饰似乎领先于铂金。 增材制造范畴之所以迈向成功，关键在于雾化粉末合金 的质量和机器准绳度得以提升，还有业者积极开拓创造性 知识，以充分利用该流程。 points from around US$500 to US$5,000. The pieces will be launched sometime later this year,” the designer revealed. New horizons According to proponents, the benefits of AM are manifold. The process accommodates freedom and innovation of design. It also enables resource efficiency and material innovation with the capability to shift design constraints of traditional techniques, thereby encouraging hollow designs and integrated features. Application development cycles are also very short. Processing requires less resource compared to traditional metalworking equipment, and there are no tool costs. Low material input factor also reduces capital lockup. AM is often a solution for components of a piece difficult to produce by casting. Moreover, the non-consolidated precious powder of the production bed can be reused. The portion of scrap needing recycling is small, which is a significant advantage when working with precious metals. AM, however, comes with its own set of challenges. One is ensuring the surface quality of the finished product meets the highest precious jewellery standards. With advanced metal powder atomisation technology, the surface quality of precious metal AM products is now smoother and easier to finish. At the same time, increased accuracy and efficiency of the printers have made the process more stable and automatic while reducing rough surfaces. Designers and engineers likewise need accurate knowledge on positioning the jewel on the build plate and its supports as well as the treatment necessary for spots left on the surface when supports are removed. Proponents recognise the need for advanced training in the whole ethos of design and production of AM jewels. Jewellery schools are now offering students comprehensive training in different approaches, imparting knowledge about the major differences between designing for casting and designing for AM. Since 2016, Progold has been collaborating with design schools each year to introduce young creative talents to the possibilities of direct metal 3D printing and provide them with an opportunity to get in touch with the big brands in the jewellery field, Dal Sasso revealed. The revolution is happening and innovative designers and entrepreneurs are using digital technology such as AM as the starting point to revolutionise the whole industry with sustainable printing-on-demand solutions. Marie commented, “The technology is now available to consciously develop lasting and meaningful change in the industry via innovation.” 正确选择进行打印的设计类型是非常重要的。基本原则 为该首饰如果可以铸造，就不要进行打印。轻盈而具有特别 定制重量和厚度的大型设计，是深受欢迎的选择。由于钛金 属比一般传统贵金属轻，能够制作个性化大型首饰而不影 响佩戴舒适度，因此这类首饰的产量也在增加。 意大利特里西诺镇的 Progold SpA 是贵金属增材制造 领域的先驱，十多年来一直采用选择性激光熔化 (SLM) 技 术打印珠宝。Progold 销售经理Luca Dal Sasso 称：“最令人 鼓舞的是，多个合作品牌现在越来越了解有关流程及其可 能性，所以能够向我们提供专门定制的3D档案，以充分发挥 SLM 技术的优点。” 据Dal Sasso观察所得，当前的发展趋势已从中小型生产 商转向大型国际品牌。 制作过程包括三个主要步骤。“首先，我们会分析并支援 客户的 3D CAD 档案，然后开发产品原型，再进行生产。客户 将会收到毛坯成品，以进行后期加工和镶嵌宝石。”他解释道。 Progold 采用 18K黄金、红金和白金，以及950 铂金和钛 金属进行打印，并自家生产所有贵金属粉末。 设计引领变革 这项技术取得成功的原因之一，在于当今的设计思维已 超越传统铸造设计，而设计师和制造商之间的密切合作关 系，似乎是实现最佳成果的关键。 德国设计师 Tom Rucker 采用打印铂金组件制作结构 繁复的得奖珠宝作品，堪称创新先驱。制造过程中，他委托 Grace printed bracelet in 18-karat gold with diamonds by Boltenstern Boltenstern的18K金打印镶钻 Grace 手链
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