INNOVATION 创新科技 22 | JNA September/October 2023 Each piece, printed at a production partner’s facility in the United Kingdom, is a complete jewel with closures, and some with gemstones enclosed during the printing process. Most are in recycled 18-karat gold but she does special custom productions in platinum, an excellent material for printing. Post-production is at the atelier in Vienna where skilled craftsmen, some who have worked with the brand for more than 20 years, finish each piece. According to Marie, working with algorithms allows the brand to customise pieces at scale through in-house developed customisation tools for both B2C and B2B clients. “Our aim is to establish a decentralised print-on-demand business model with no waste, low stock and personalised customer journey. We take accountability for what we bring to life, and our aspiration is to behave with integrity and responsibility at every step. As a female-led team, we work on projects to empower women in tech and young entrepreneurs, which form part of our customer community. This is specifically interesting for forward-going markets such as Asia and the US,” she shared. Nuovi Gioielli in Mussolente, Italy, advanced its core jewellery manufacturing competency with 3D printed jewels. The company bought its first machines more than a decade ago and now creates precious collections for its own brands while providing printing services for overseas brands. Damiano Carlesso of the Research and Development/ Design team of Nuovi said, “Mixing different production techniques has always been our specialty. Now we can print a jewel and finish it manually or we can add intermediate steps to get more precision or special decorations or create jewels with a mixture of techniques: LMF plus casting plus CNC or LMF plus stamping plus laser marking.” LMF enables the creation of very light but voluminous structures; completely closed hollow volumes or articulated and movable parts. Each of these characteristics applied to the jewel is an added value to the final piece. The most used are platinum, palladium gold as well as rose and yellow gold. Printed platinum ring by Nuovi Nuovi 的打印铂金戒指 Printed platinum ring frame set with turquoise and pink sapphires and finished with laser welded structure by Tom Rucker Tom Rucker 的铂金打印戒指镶嵌绿松石和粉红 色蓝宝石，并采用激光焊接结构部件 The company’s fabric-like patented “MetalPixel” embodies the essence of what can be achieved with LMF – its applications are endless. “We collaborated with powder and printer manufacturers to better develop the process and envisage it as a bridge from jewellery to fashion,” Carlesso enthused. Innovation upon innovation Denmark-based designer Simone Faurschou who loves to build bridges between jewellery and digital technology has created a jewellery “first” – developing a precious-metal 3D-printed collection in partnership with tech futurist Cathy Hackl, with an NFC (near field communication technology) chip embedded in each piece. The limited-edition collection called Frillz comprises 100 necklaces and 100 bracelets whose NFC chip can be scanned with a smart phone. Hackl, described as the “godmother of the metaverse” who works with luxury brands to embrace digitalisation and tech, combined her expertise with Faurschou’s techsavvy design and jewellery-making skills. “It has been such fun for us both to work across our different industries, a collaboration that has resulted in a first of its kind for jewellery,” said Faurschou. The technology allows the customer to scan the jewellery piece, mint their digital asset such as an NFT (Non-Fungible Token) that takes them straight to their proof of ownership or authentication on the blockchain, she explained. “It took me several months to work out how to implement the tech into the metal to ensure it was still scannable with a smart phone.” Faurschou uses a gemstone-like bio-resin in translucent colours of black, white, pink and green to create simple elegant jewels, each cleverly hiding the chip living within. She designed and developed all the pieces, with prototyping at her workshop studio in Copenhagen. “We limited the production of pieces in solid 18-karat gold to 10 necklaces and 10 bracelets and the remaining 180 pieces are in sterling silver and gold vermeil, with price Printed cuff with coloured gemstones by Nuovi Nuovi 的彩色宝石打印手镯
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