INNOVATION 创新科技 20 | JNA September/October 2023 | Jennifer Henricus | Additive Manufacturing or 3D printing is making inroads in the jewellery industry, with technological advances and designer adoption yielding fresh approaches and manifold possibilities for production and design. 增材制造，或称 3D 打印，在珠宝制造行业欣欣向荣。随着技术日新月异， 设计师也乐于应用，从而衍生出更新颖的制作方式，发挥更丰富的创造力。 PRINTED JEWELLERY: Transforming production and design The revolutionary digital technology of printing jewellery direct from precious metal powders has finally come into its own. After more than a decade of intense research, massive investment and consistent encouragement and knowledge transfer down the supply chain, pioneers of the process are pleased: International jewellery brands and designers are finally embracing the potential of innovation and differentiation for their products via 3D printing. Direct metal jewellery printing is achieved by a process known as Additive Manufacturing (AM), which involves the use of a laser beam to melt atomised precious metal powders and build CAD jewels on dedicated build platforms and supports – a process of adding precious materials within rigorous parameters. The process is given different tags and acronyms – Laser Metal Fusion (LMF) or Laser Beam Powder Bed Fusion (PBF-LB) or Selective Laser Melting (SLM) technology. Providers of the printing/build service are usually precious metal alloy manufacturers and suppliers. They have in-house AM facilities set up in partnership with a recognised AM machine manufacturer. They develop their own precious metal alloys, atomise their powders, develop the build plates and supports, and have in-house engineers and tech experts to manage the whole process including recycling and refining the metal with the intention of reducing waste and making the process extremely sustainable. Manufacturers and designers agree that platinum performs best for the AM process, especially because cast platinum encounters problems such as porosity. However, in terms of numbers, gold pieces seem to be ahead of platinum. Key to recent AM success is the quality of atomised powder alloys and increased accuracy of machines plus creative knowledge on how to get the best out of the process.The choice of the type of design to print is crucial. The rule is: If it can be cast, do not print. Lightweight voluminous pieces with a tailored weight and thickness are a favoured choice. Titanium jewellery production is increasing, too. The metal is lighter than the traditional precious metals used in Elements Rainbow bracelet with coloured gemstones and Elements Pure necklace with Swiss blue topaz and diamonds, both printed in 18-karat gold, by Boltenstern Boltenstern的Elements Rainbow彩色宝石手链和Elements Pure项链，镶嵌瑞士蓝托 帕石和钻石，均以 18K 金打印 打印珠宝：生产与设计之变革
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