SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2023 ISSUE #441 US$15 Meet the “Extraordinary 40” “非凡40”菁英 (Part 3 第三部分) The business of luxury 奢华珠宝市场新貌 Innovative strides 创新科技迈步向前
16 STRATEGY 企业策略 16 Livestreaming gains further steam in China’s jewellery market 直播进一步推动中国珠宝市场 CONTENTS Issue #441 | SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2023 32 Jadeite imaginings in a modern world 翡翠首饰的当代魅力 14 The subtlety of true luxury 真正奢华的奥妙 8DIGEST 市场指标 8 Emerald miner rakes in US$48M in record sales 祖母绿矿商以4,800万美元刷新销售记录 28 DESIGN 设计 28 The language of luxury 奢华的语言 20 INNOVATION 创新科技 20 Printed jewellery: Transforming production and design 打印珠宝:生产与设计之变革 26 De Beers: Empowering the trade with unparalleled diamondgrading expertise 戴比尔斯:以无可匹敌的钻石分级 专业技术为贸易赋能 36 JNA 40th ANNIVERSARY SPECIAL JNA 40周年专题报道 36 Meet the "Extraordinary 40" “非凡40”菁英 38 Nirmal Bardiya: Bolstering India’s coloured gemstone hub 巩固印度彩宝中心地位 39 Nicholas Bos: Elevating luxury jewellery to new heights 带领奢华珠宝攀越新高峰 40 Jacques Branellec: A legacy of excellence in the pearl trade 珍珠贸易的卓越传承 41 Gaetano Cavalieri: Charting the course of the jewellery industry 策划珠宝业的发展蓝图 42 Johnny Cheng: The maestro of Hong Kong’s pearl trade 香港珍珠贸易大师 43 Letitia Chow: Blazing a trail in jewellery trade media 开创珠宝行业媒体 44 Savji Dholakia: Shining beacon of philanthropy in diamond trade 闪耀的慈善家 45 Stéphane Fischler: Cleaning up the diamond supply chain 重整钻石供应链 46 Sean Gilbertson: Fostering an advocacy-led leadership 培养以倡导为先的领导力 47 Liao Chuangbin: Shining the spotlight on Chinese artistry 点亮中国珠宝工艺 10 FOCUS 焦点 10 Asian jewellers: The age of luxury 亚洲珠宝商的奢华时代
78 Cultivating talents in HK jewellery sector 培养香港珠宝業人才 66 Market expansion bolsters GoGreen Diamonds’ business GoGreen Diamonds借扩展市场推动业务 62 INSIGHT 睿智角度 62 KGK sees brilliant future for polished diamonds KGK窥见成品钻石之光辉未来 64 Sheetal taps into modern appeal of diamonds 展现钻石的现代魅力 56 JNA @ 40: Trade journalism for the jewellery industry JNA 40周年:为珠宝行业提供优质内容 48 Dilip Mehta: Building a global diamond powerhouse 创建环球钻石业显赫名字 49 Vipul Shah: Propelling India to greater heights 推动印度珠宝迈向新高峯 50 Elliot Tannenbaum: Pioneering innovation in the diamond industry 带领钻石行业创新发展 51 Victor Tuzlukov: Mastering the art of gemstone cutting 宝石切割艺术大师 52 Ramesh Virani: Ushering in a new era of diamond trade 开创钻石贸易新纪元 53 Kent Wong: Championing success in jewellery retail 开拓珠宝零售成功之路 54 Wong Tat Wah: Leading the way in jewellery manufacturing 引领珠宝制造业的发展 55 Zhan Weijian: Pushing advances in China pearl sector 引领中国珍珠行业发展 On the Cover 封面 Emerald Lotus necklace from Bulgari’s Mediterranea high jewellery collection. Embodying the aesthetics of Indian spirituality, the diamond- and emerald-studded necklace features wave-like designs symbolic of the lotus flower. At its centre is a magnificent 37.14-carat Colombian emerald. Also on the cover is an emerald ring by Bulgari. 宝格丽Mediterranea顶级珠宝系列的祖母绿莲花项链。这条镶嵌钻石和祖母绿的 项链注满了印度美学的神髓,其波浪形设计象征着莲花。项链中心镶嵌一颗重达 37.14克拉的哥伦比亚祖母绿。宝格丽的祖母绿戒指也登上了封面。 Photo credit 图片鸣谢: Scandebergs Digital version 电子版: https://news.jewellerynet.com/en/publications 69 MARKET INTELLIGENCE 市场情报 69 GJEPC celebrates excellence in craftsmanship and design GJEPC表扬卓越的工艺和设计 70 Jewellery and gem powerhouses converge at JGW 2023 珠宝行业巨头汇聚2023年JGW 74 Ruby radiance 红宝石之耀眼光芒
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DIGEST 市场指标 8 | JNA September/October 2023 The Infinite Blue diamond ring. Photo credit: Sotheby’s “无际之蓝”钻石戒指。图片鸣谢: 苏富比 Photo credit 图片鸣谢: Grizzly Mining Ltd 11.28 carats 11.28克拉 63.8% Online Trade Updates 新闻快讯 China jewellery sales projected to pick up in Q3 第三季度中国珠宝销售额预期上升 CIBJO warns against undetected treated gems CIBJO敦促业界留意加工宝石未被 测出之现象 Lucara mines 692.3-carat diamond from Karowe 卢卡拉在卡罗维开采出692.3克拉钻石 Jewellery sales in China could strengthen in the third quarter of the year, driven by seasonal buying occasions and weddings alongside governmentled initiatives to spur economic activity. 在季节性消费现象、婚礼数目增加,以及中央政府 主导的刺激经济举措的带动下,中国第三季度的 珠宝销售表现有可能走强。 Treated coloured gemstones that remain undetected and infiltrate distribution chains could threaten growth in the gemstones trade, according to a recent report by The World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO). 国际珠宝首饰联合会(CIBJO)最近一份报告指出, 一些经处理的彩色宝石未被发现并已渗入分销 链,有可能会威胁宝石行业的发展。 Lucara Diamond Corp has recovered a 692.3carat diamond from its Karowe mine in Botswana, the company's fourth 300-plus carat diamond find this year. 卢卡拉钻石公司(Lucara Diamond Corp)从其位于 博茨瓦纳的卡罗维(Karowe)矿场采收了一颗重达 692.3克拉的钻石,这是该公司今年发现的第四颗 300克拉以上的钻石。 Our digital platform provides additional content for an even more comprehensive industry perspective. Scan the QR code for the full story and more trade news. 我们的数字平台载有更多更全面的 行业视角报道,请扫瞄二维码查看 全文和更多行业信息。 news.jewellerynet.com/en/jnanews Weight of the Infinite Blue, a fancy vivid blue diamond to be presented at Sotheby’s stand-alone auction in Hong Kong on October 5, 2023. Expected to fetch up to US$37 million, the Infinite Blue diamond ring in 18-karat white and pink gold is further embellished with brilliant-cut and trapezeshaped diamonds and brilliant-cut diamonds of pink tint. The rare blue diamond has a captivating hue that alludes to the vastness of the ocean, according to Sotheby’s. 将于2023年10月5日在香港苏富比独立拍卖会上呈献的“无际之蓝”(The Infinite Blue)艳彩蓝钻的重量。这枚“无际之蓝”钻石戒指以18K白金和玫 瑰金镶嵌,缀以明亮式切割的梯形钻石和粉红色钻石,预计售价高达3,700 万美元。据苏富比指,这颗罕见的蓝钻色调迷人,象征着海洋之浩瀚。 4,863萬美元 Total revenues generated from Grizzly Mining Ltd’s 2023 sales of mid- to high-grade rough emeralds from the company’s Grizzly emerald mine in Zambia – a record result for the miner. All 106 lots of emeralds were sold to clients from Asia, Africa and Europe. The event was held in Dubai from August 1 to 7. Growth in Hong Kong’s sales of jewellery and other valuable items from January to July 2023. The government attributed this to improving consumer sentiment as well as solid revival in inbound tourism. 格里兹利矿业有限公司(Grizzly Mining Ltd)在2023年原石拍卖项目的总 收入,创下该公司的最高纪录。该批祖母绿拍品的质量由中至高等级,均 来自赞比亚格里兹利祖母绿矿区,106组祖母绿拍品全部售出,客户来自 亚洲、非洲和欧洲。此次活动于8月1日至7日在迪拜举行。 香港珠宝及其他名贵礼品在2023年1月至7月的销售额增幅。特区政府 将此归因于消费情绪的改善和旅游业的稳健复苏。 US$48.63M
10 | JNA September/October 2023 FOCUS 焦点 Ruby earrings, and paraiba tourmaline earrings and ring with a Paraiba tourmaline centre stone by Hatta Fine Jewelry 红宝石耳环;Hatta Fine Jewelry的帕拉伊巴碧玺耳环及戒指,后者镶嵌一颗帕拉伊巴碧玺主石 | Bernardette Sto. Domingo 杜明高 | High-end jewellers in Asia bring to light elements that make them shine brighter on the international stage – from stronger operational machinery to cultural heritage and the ability to source some of the world’s most tantalising gems. 亚洲的高端珠宝商积极提升机械设备水平、注重文化传承,并仔细搜罗 世界上最迷人的宝石,在国际舞台上绽放更耀眼的光芒。 亚洲珠宝商的奢华时代 ASIAN JEWELLERS: The age of luxury
JNA September/October 2023 | 11 FOCUS 焦点 We figure prominently in luxury jewellery circles because our products are distinctive, thanks to Thai culture and workmanship. Those have always been the hallmark of Beauty Gems. – Hitesh Dhruvakumar Chhaya, business analyst at Beauty Gems Ruby and diamond necklace by Beauty Gems Beauty Gems的彩色宝石 配钻石耳环 Asia-based luxury jewellers continuously count on critical pillars of the business to sustain growth and stay afloat even in the face of adversity. JNA sits down with two of the biggest names in Asia’s high-end jewellery sector who talked about the importance of agility and resiliency, product exceptionality and a sturdy corporate structure to retain their global edge. Business of luxury Opportunities abound for the luxury segment of the international jewellery trade. According to French conglomerate Kering, the luxury market is witnessing a “premiumisation” trend in supply and demand as confirmed by solid first-half results posted by luxury jewellers. “This trend seems to be temporary, largely related to the economic situation, with high inflation and falling real incomes affecting the most aspirational customer segments but leaving customers with the highest income or wealth levels relatively unaffected,” explained Kering in its first-half earnings report. Timeless and high-end products are also regarded as “safe-haven assets” during uncertain times. Kering owns Boucheron, Pomellato and Qeelin. Meanwhile, luxury group LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, which controls Tiffany & Co, Bulgari and Chaumet, said strong creative momentum of premium brands contributes to their desirability. Industry players explained that affluent markets continue to invest in luxury items regardless of the macroeconomic situation since there will always be life occasions and milestones to be celebrated and of course, dispensable income to be spent. Case in point was the Covid-19 pandemic, which proved disastrous for most companies, but provided luxury enterprises with newfound expansion and business opportunities, and alternative income streams. Heritage is king Culture-inspired designs are at the heart of Thai luxury jeweller Beauty Gems. According to Hitesh Dhruvakumar Chhaya, business analyst at Beauty Gems, exceptionality sets high-end jewellers apart from the competition. “Our craftsmanship and design, which shine the spotlight on Thai culture and aesthetic influence, make us stand out,” he shared. “The way we source our highquality gemstones and how those are meticulously set in our jewellery are also unique features that keep us ahead of other local or regional brands.” The company, which has more than 40 years of luxury jewellery manufacturing expertise, mainly sells to the domestic market but it also has exclusive, affluent clients across Southeast Asia, the Middle East and Europe. Beauty Gems has two core businesses – its highend Beauty Gems brand and its OEM arm, which manufactures products for other brands. The Beauty Gems brand offers top-quality jewellery pieces adorned with diamonds, rubies, sapphires and a wider range of coloured gemstones. While prevailing economic conditions, combined with the residual effects of the pandemic on the market’s purchasing power and consumption habits, have made it challenging to do business, Chhaya said Beauty Gems’ collections remain extremely favoured by discerning buyers.
12 | JNA September/October 2023 FOCUS 焦点 Our expertise is on a higher level since we deal in luxury jewellery. Gemstones are the hero of our jewellery collections. We offer only the rarest of gems. – Chang Hatta, founder of Hatta Fine Jewelry Emerald and diamond jewellery set by Hatta Fine Jewelry Hatta Fine Jewelry的祖母绿 配钻石首饰套装 “People are always on the lookout for innovative designs and excellent pieces,” explained the company official. “The brand has built a credible reputation over the past four decades. Overall, the business environment is stable for us.” Price is also rarely a consideration for high-end consumers, so skyrocketing prices of raw materials have little to no effect on luxury consumption, he said. “We figure prominently in luxury jewellery circles because our products are distinctive, thanks to Thai culture and workmanship. Those have always been the hallmark of Beauty Gems,” noted Chhaya. Beauty in rarity Luxury jewellers also excel in their ability to source the most exquisite of gemstones, according to Chang Hatta, founder of Hatta Fine Jewelry. Established in 1972, the company is celebrated for its innate artistry and unparalleled craftsmanship. It has offices in Hong Kong and Taiwan. “Our expertise is on a higher level since we deal in luxury jewellery,” noted Chang. “In our collections, the gemstones are the hero of the jewellery. We offer only the rarest of gems.” Market appetite for hard-to-find gems remains strong, particularly from wealthy consumers and gemstone connoisseurs. Chang said buyers would always pay a premium for unheated Burmese ruby, Sri Lankan and Kashmir sapphire as well as Brazilian Paraiba tourmaline, to name a few. Gems that come in rare, big sizes such as a 50-plus-carat unheated ruby, or even a 2-carat flawless and neon-colour Brazilian Paraiba tourmaline are now harder to come by. Hatta Fine Jewelry has high-quality Brazilian Paraiba tourmaline of 30 carats to 50 carats in its inventory, according to Chang. The company also has premium-range Paraiba tourmaline from Mozambique, among other valued coloured gemstones. “There is robust demand for refined jewellery adorned with these incomparable stones. Upscale buyers who want to invest in incredibly exceptional gems have the financial capacity to indulge in these luxury items,” the company official said. “This is only the beginning. We expect demand to grow even further over the coming months.” The Chinese market is leading the surge in demand for high-end jewellery, continued Chang. Digital age Luxury jewellers also have the capacity to upgrade digitally – a phenomenon that started to take flight during the pandemic. The rise of social media platforms as effective marketing tools as well as livestreaming sessions as a form of e-commerce have forever changed the way business is conducted. China, meanwhile, could still emerge a hero in the luxury jewellery trade as the market awaits its full recovery. Chang of Hatta Fine Jewelry remarked that Chinese consumers are already steadily buying goods, and this trend is expected to continue unabated. Chhaya, for his part, is expecting stable business for luxury jewellers, buoyed by solid market demand. Resolution of conflicts such as the Russia-Ukraine war as well as easing of global inflation could further bolster growth in the luxury jewellery trade going forward, he added. 亚洲的奢华珠宝商凭借业务的关键支柱,在逆境 中保持增长。《JNA亚洲珠宝》与亚洲其中兩家最 大型的高级珠宝商进行访谈,探讨企业的灵敏 度和韧性、优秀产品和稳固的架构,对于保持全球优势何等 重要。 奢华珠宝业务 奢侈珠宝行业可谓机遇处处。根据法国企业开云集团表 示,奢侈品市场在供需方面正在经历“高端化”趋势,各大高 级珠宝商所公布的上半年业绩,已证明了这一点。 开云集团在上半年收益报告中解释道:“这股趋势似乎 只属暂时性质,并与当下的经济环境有着莫大关连,其中高 通胀和实际收入下降两方面,对领导性消费群体带来不少
JNA September/October 2023 | 13 FOCUS 焦点 Blue sapphire necklace by Hatta Fine Jewelry Hatta Fine Jewelry的蓝色蓝宝石项链 打击,但拥有最高收入或财富水平的客户则相对不受影响。” 款式长青的高端珠宝产品,也被视为不稳定时期的“避险资 产”。宝诗龙、宝曼兰朵和Qeelin都是开云集团旗下的品牌。 此外,持有蒂芙尼、宝格丽和尚美巴黎的奢侈品集团路 威酩轩集团表示,高端品牌的强大创意力量无疑是产品吸 引力的重要因素。 业内人士解释,对于富裕的消费者来说,无论宏观经济 如何,总有值得庆祝的特别日子和人生里程碑,他们也拥有 充足的可支配收入,因此仍然会继续投资奢侈品。 举个例子,尽管新冠疫情对大多数公司带来灾难性的影 响,却为奢侈品企业提供了崭新商机和替代收入来源。 文化传承 泰国奢华珠宝商Beauty Gems以洋溢文化特色的设计为 傲。其业务分析师Hitesh Dhruvakumar Chhaya表示,卓越与 独特性是令高端珠宝商脱颖而出的关键。 他分享道:“我们的精巧工艺和设计彰显了泰国的文化 和美学元素,使我们更卓绝群伦。我们也拥有独到的采购眼 光和珠宝设计能力,领先于其他本地或区内品牌。” 该公司在高级珠宝制造领域累积40多年的丰富经验,产 品主要销往泰国本地市场,但在东南亚、中东和欧洲也拥有 富裕的尊贵客户。 Beauty Gems的核心业务分为两方面,包括高级珠宝 品牌Beauty Gems和为其他品牌进行OEM代工生产的部 门。Beauty Gems品牌呈献顶级钻石、红宝石、蓝宝石和其他 彩宝首饰。 目前的经济状况,以及新冠疫情对购买力和消费习惯 的残余效应,令营商环境挑战重重,但Chhaya表示,Beauty Gems的珠宝系列仍然深受品味非凡的买家垂青。 他解释道:“買家致力搜罗创新的设计和优秀之作,而在 过去40年,我们也建立了显赫名声。简而言之,我们的经营 环境相当稳健。” 再者,他认为高端消费者甚少考虑价格因素,所以原材 料价格高企对奢侈品消费市场几乎没有任何影响。 “我们的产品尽显泰国文化与工艺精髓,风格独树一 帜,因此在高级珠宝业界占据重要席位。这些元素一直是 Beauty Gems的特色所在。”Chhaya指出。 珍罕之美 Hatta Fine Jewelry的创始人Chang Hatta表示,不少高 级珠宝商擅于采购最优秀的宝石。该公司成立于1972年,因 其艺术性和杰出工艺而备受赞誉。他们在香港和台湾地区 均设有办事处。 他说:“我们专营奢华珠宝业务,专门知识和造诣也因而 处于更高水平。本公司的作品以宝石为核心素材,而且只采 用最稀有的宝石进行创作。” 市场对稀有宝石的需求依然强劲,尤其是富裕消费者和 宝石鉴赏家。Chang表示,不少买家都愿意付出大量金钱,购 买未经加热的缅甸红宝石、斯里兰卡和喀什米尔蓝宝石,以 及巴西帕拉伊巴碧玺等宝石。 稀有的大型宝石,例如是50克拉以上的未经加热红宝 石,甚至是完美无瑕的2克拉霓虹色调巴西帕拉伊巴碧玺, 如今已变得弥足珍贵。 他指出,Hatta Fine Jewelry拥有30至50克拉的优质巴西 帕拉伊巴碧玺库存,还有产自莫桑比克的帕拉伊巴碧玺等 价值不菲的彩色宝石。 “镶嵌这些顶级宝石的华美首饰,在市场上需求甚殷。 希望进行宝石投资的高端买家,都拥有一定的经济能力,尽 情投入奢华珠宝的世界。”Chang说道。“但这只是个开始。我 们预计,未来几个月的需求将进一步攀升。”他又补充,中国 市场现正掀起高端珠宝需求的激增趋势。 踏进数字时代 高级珠宝商也具备足够本钱进行数字化升级—— 这个现象始于疫情期间,随着社交媒体逐渐成为有 效的营销工具,加上网路直播发展成一种电子商 务形式,已彻底改变了业界营商模式。 Hatta Fine Jewelry的Chang对此表示赞 同。在中国消费者持续进行购物的基础上, 他相信这股趋势将得以延续。 Chhaya则预计,在市场需求的带 动下,奢华珠宝商的业务将保持稳 定。他补充说,俄乌战争等冲突以 至全球通胀若得以缓解,可能会 进一步刺激高级珠宝行业的未 来增长。 Coloured gemstone and diamond earrings by Beauty Gems Beauty Gems的彩色宝石配钻石耳环
14 | JNA September/October 2023 FOCUS 焦点 Goldsmith Hermann Niessing founded his eponymous company in 1873 as a small workshop in Vreden, Germany. After more than a century, it has evolved into an award-winning jewellery brand renowned for its visionary designs that centre on elegance and minimalism. Niessing has made a name for itself through timeless collections that can remain aesthetically relevant amid changing trends, but constant innovation has become vital in a more modern setting, said Niessing CEO Sandro Erl. From its beloved bridal collections to the signature Spannring® series, Niessing’s designs adopt the Bauhaus principle of “form follows function” and are mainly inspired by nature and architecture. The brand’s inventive spirit, love for contemporary art and deep understanding of precious metal artistry are also reflected in its jewellery pieces. According to Erl, evolution and revolution are two critical elements of the business. For instance, Niessing often upgrades iconic collections with new twists and adjustments while its design team regularly develops new collections such as the award-winning Topia and Mirage. Unconventional thinking, open-mindedness and staying true to the house’s design philosophy are integral parts of Niessing’s identity, added Erl. Changing landscapes The pandemic has led to a rapid paradigm shift in the way consumers behave and think, Erl noted, adding that people increasingly invest in jewellery with enduring designs, veering away from what is popular. The emerging “quiet luxury” trend also aligns with Niessing’s understated designs as the brand’s customers advocate quality, minimalism and sustainability. To celebrate its 150th anniversary, Niessing unveiled two collections – a reinvention of Niessing Setario, which was first launched 49 years ago, and Spannring® Era, an addition to the Spannring® collection. It also rolled out Supla Grenadine, a selection of rosé gold jewellery, as the latest offering from its extensive line-up of gold shades. Niessing’s top markets include Germany, Japan, the Netherlands and Switzerland, but it is gradually expanding in China, Singapore, Korea and Hong Kong. Of these, China has become one of its fastest growing markets. 1 873年,金匠Hermann Niessing在德国Vreden镇开设 了一家小型作坊,其同名公司也随之问世。个多世纪 以来,它已发展为一个屡获殊荣的珠宝品牌,以优雅 简约的前瞻性设计而见称。 Niessing的首饰系列永不过时,在变化多端的潮流中仍 然具有重要意义。然而,首席执行官Sandro Erl向《JNA亚洲 珠宝》透露,他们在现代的环境中也需要不断创新。 无论是大受欢迎的婚庆系列,以至标志性的Spannring® 系列,Niessing的设计均遵循“形式追随功能”的包豪斯美学 原则,并以大自然和建筑为主要灵感。此外,品牌的创新精 神、对当代艺术的热爱,以及对贵金属工艺的深刻理解,也 体现于珠宝作品之中。Erl表示,进化和革新是促进业务发展 的两个要素。品牌经常对标志性作品进行调整和提升,而且 定期开发新系列,例如Topia和Mirage这些得奖系列。 非传统思维、开放的态度,还有忠于品牌的设计理念,在 他眼中都是品牌形象不可或缺的一部分。 迎接市场变化 Erl表示,新冠疫情引发了消费者行为和思维模式的根 本转化。越来越多人投资在经典长青的珠宝设计上,而非当 下流行的样式。近来兴起的“低调奢华”潮流,也非常切合 Niessing的内敛美学,其客户都追求产品的优秀特质、简洁 设计和可持续性。 为了庆祝创立150周年,Niessing特别推出了两个 系列——49年前首推的Niessing Setario系列得以重新设 计,Spannring®系列的新成员Spannring®Era也正式诞生,而 Supla Grenadine玫瑰金色亦隆重登场,成为品牌一系列迷 人金调作品中的耀目新星。 Niessing的主要市场包括德国、日本、荷兰和瑞士,但也 逐渐扩展到中国内地及香港地區、新加坡和韩国。中国内地 已成为该公司增长最快的市场之一。 Spannring® Era Collection in Supla Grenadine by Niessing Niessing的Spannring® Era 系列采用Supla Grenadine 玫瑰金色物料制成 | Sharon Kwok 郭芷雯 | Niessing shines the spotlight on its centuries-old design philosophy and how evolution plays a crucial role in its continuous success. Niessing沿袭数百年的设计哲学,持续蜕变是脱颖而出的关键。 THE SUBTLETY OF true luxury 真正奢华的奥妙
STRATEGY 企业策略 16 | JNA September/October 2023 As a powerful e-commerce tool in China, livestreaming is a recognised business model and a nationwide phenomenon. With a great deal of consumers converging in livestreaming platforms, jewellers are increasingly leveraging this channel to promote growth and market expansion. 在中国内地, 直播发展成强大的电子商务工具,直播商业模式盛行,成为一种全国性现象。由于直播平台 凝聚了大量消费者,珠宝商日渐利用这渠道来促进业务增长和扩展市场。 直播进一步推动 中国珠宝市场 LIVESTREAMING gains further steam in China’s jewellery market | Sharon Kwok 郭芷雯 | Thanks to a well-established Internet infrastructure, advanced logistical network and a massive online community, China has become the most ideal market for livestreaming. According to the 51st Statistical Report on China’s Internet Development released by China Internet Network Information Center, the number of livestreaming viewers in the country reached 751 million as of December 2022, accounting for 70.3 per cent of all Internet users there. Of this, 515 million used livestreaming to purchase goods. A survey by the Beijing Consumers Association, meanwhile, said 90 per cent of 4,112 respondents admitted to having browsed and/or purchased goods while watching livestreams. Jewellery and cultural items accounted for 16.25 per cent of products sold via this channel. It further revealed that livestreams are mostly hosted on traditional e-commerce platforms like Taobao while fast-growing short video platforms like Douyin present bright opportunities. “In the past, people would visit brick-and-mortar stores to buy jewellery. Nowadays, they can easily find products through platforms like Douyin, which uses algorithms that sort user content,” said Liu Chuandong, president of China-based jeweller Yun Shang Xu. “The rise of Douyin led to further success for us and allowed us to reach more potential customers.” Yun Shang Xu hosted two livestreams on June 3 and 4 at Jewellery Seasons China 2023. A total of 13 million views were recorded for both sessions while the number of viewers watching live peaked at 156,000. Earnings hit RMB280 million (approximately US$39.3 Aurora rice pearl necklace by Grace Pearl (HK) Co Ltd 佳丽珍珠(香港)公司的 极光小米珠项链 Liu Chuandong, president of Yun Shang Xu, hosting a livestreaming session at Jewellery Seasons China 2023 云上叙董事长刘川东在2023年中国珠宝季(深圳)举行期间主持直播
STRATEGY 企业策略 JNA September/October 2023 | 17 million) with around 1.2 million products sold, exceeding the company’s sales target. Another of Yun Shang Xu’s sessions, “Douyin 520 Gift Season | True Love Livestreaming Room,” on May 20, 2023, meanwhile, raked in RMB130 million (approximately US$18.2 million). The new consumer Changes in consumer preferences and behaviours in recent years likewise contributed to the success of livestreaming in China. Millennial and Gen Z buyers, in particular, greatly value interactive experiences, and livestreaming fits the bill as it allows viewers to exchange opinions with the audience and the host. Riding on this development, Yun Shang Xu introduced an immersive experience in one of its livestreaming sessions where the host facilitated virtual shopping by visiting jewellery stores, showcasing selected items and allowing viewers to place orders real time. Speaking at the “Demand For Jewelry Consumption – A Change In Consumer Mentality Forum” held on the sidelines of Jewellery Seasons China 2023 in Shenzhen, CHJ Jewellery Vice President Ping Pan cited changes in how consumers perceive jewellery. Chinese consumers used to mainly buy jewellery to give as inheritance, to wear on special occasions like weddings or for investment purposes. Now, they also buy jewellery for everyday wear and self-satisfaction. Liu told JNA that with the advent of the fast-fashion trend, consumers now gravitate towards more accessible, everyday jewellery pieces with good value. Livestreaming on Douyin caters to this fast-evolving market demand. He said pearls and hetian jade were the most favoured jewellery items sold during the company’s livestreams alongside more affordable alternatives to rubies and emeralds. Female consumers often opt for simple but trendy designs, added Liu. Candy Wong, assistant general manager of Grace Pearl (HK) Co Ltd, attested to the popularity of pearls online. The company’s brand, Edison Pearl, collaborated with livestream account Mifengjingxi in hosting a livestream on Taobao in June this year. The session recorded RMB38 million (approximately US$5.3 million) in gross merchandise value (GMV), with the Aurora rice pearl necklace and the Goddess of Moon pearl necklace raking in a total of RMB800,000 (approximately US$112,028). Industry transformation According to Liu, livestreaming supports the growth of the jewellery industry by driving retail sales and helping manufacturers and suppliers expand their business. “We analyse consumer data through innovative technology to understand what buyers need. We then share these insights with producers so they can manufacture jewellery that meets customer expectations,” Liu explained. Furthermore, Yun Shang Xu is aiming to facilitate closer collaboration between manufacturers and material suppliers to develop better-quality products. It also strengthened its supply chain capability to offer swifter response and sufficient stock to cater to fastpaced transactions on livestreams. Another enthusiast is Dragon’s Pearl Co Ltd. The company, which recently launched a finished jewellery line as a B2C strategy, uses livestreaming to bolster its online sales, according to Chairman Cai Wenjiang. Specialising in saltwater pearls, Dragon’s Pearl has been supplying goods to domestic jewellery brands for over 20 years. The new jewellery line is under its registered brand, Akoya® Jewelry. According to Cai, Dragon’s Pearl has successfully leveraged livestreaming to boost its digital business and connect with consumers. Cai said the winning formula is providing high-quality products and professional services supported by a stable supply chain. “Livestreaming is a good marketing channel. We obtained big data about our consumers through livestreaming,” noted Cai. “It provided accurate information about consumers’ expectations on pricing, jewellery design and quality of pearls. We can better utilise company resources to deliver products that fit the needs of end-consumers.” It is however not a walk in the park. Cai said there were times when only a few people would watch live, but the company “kept evaluating and improving” and offering high-quality products to gain consumer confidence. It took Dragon’s Pearl around seven to eight months to see marked improvements in audience participation and online sales. CHJ Jewellery, for its part, said livestreaming became crucial during the pandemic. Almost 90 per cent of its 1,000 retail stores were closed due to Covid, so it implemented an online retail strategy called “Yundian,” which involves a smart store and livestreaming activities to engage its target audience. CHJ Jewellery joined hands with Tencent Smart Retail to create numerous livestreaming sessions for its clients in the WeChat mini programme of Yundian. The platform was instrumental in expanding the company’s reach to more potential consumers and drive sales. It was a success for CHJ Jewellery. In one of its three-hour livestreaming sessions, the company earned nearly RMB70 million (approximately US$9.8 million) in GMV. “By consolidating our customer base and building our brand in the WeChat ecosystem, we were able to accelerate our digital transformation and grow our business during the pandemic,” Liao Chuangbin, chairman of CHJ Jewellery said. Jewellers around the globe are also training their sights on livestreaming as a highly effective e-commerce tool. Eldwin Wong, director of Hong Kong jewellery manufacturer and wholesaler Joint Wealth Ltd, said there is a growing number of clients who sell jewellery products through livestream, particularly from the Philippines, Korea, Japan and Thailand.
STRATEGY 企业策略 18 | JNA September/October 2023 凭借完善的互联网基础设施、先进的物流网络和 庞大的在线社群,中国内地发展成最理想的直 播市场。 根据中国互联网络信息中心的第51次《中国互联网 络发展状况统计报告》,截至2022年12月,全国网络直播 用户高达7.51亿,占全国网民总数的70.3%,其中5.15亿 用户使用直播购买商品。 另外,由北京市消费者协会公布的调研报告显示,在 4,112名受访者中,超过90%受访者承认在观看直播时有 浏览和/或购买过商品。报告指,通过直播售出的产品中, 珠宝文玩占16.25%。 该报告进一步透露,传统电商平台如淘宝等仍是网络 直播消费的主要渠道,而快速增长的短视频平台如抖音 则大有可为。 云上叙董事长刘川东表示︰“过去人们会去实体店购 买珠宝,如今他们可以很容易地通过抖音这样的平台找 到产品,因为抖音利用数据演算法就用户对内容的喜好 进行分类。抖音的崛起为我们的业务带来了爆炸性增长, 并让我们接触到了更多潜在客户。” 在6月3日和4日,云上叙在2023年中国珠宝季(深圳) 举行期间主持了两场直播,录得1,300万总在线观看人 次,而最高在线人数多达156,000人。该两场直播的总收 入达2.8亿元人民币(约3,930万美元),售出约120万件产 品,超过了该公司的销售目标。 另外,云上叙在2023年5月20日举办的另一场活 动——“抖音520好礼季|臻爱直播间”也录得1.3亿元人民 币(约1,820万美元)总收入。 新消费客群 近年,内地消费者偏好和消费习惯的变化,也是推动 直播商业模式成功的因素之一。千禧一代和Z世代的买 家尤其看重互动体验,而直播平台的互动特色正好符合 了这一需求,例如观众与主持人可以在直播中交流。 乘着这股发展趋势,云上叙推出更身临其境的直播体 验:主持人在直播中走访珠宝店,展示精选商品,观众可 于直播中下单,犹如亲身购物。 潮宏基集团副总裁潘平在2023年中国珠宝季(深圳) 期间举行的“珠宝大众消费心态的变化”论坛上表示,消 费者对珠宝的看法已经转变。 过去,中国内地消费者会购买珠宝用作传承、或在婚 礼等特殊场合佩戴,或者作为投资。现在,消费者购买珠 宝更多是为了日常佩戴,自我满足。 刘川东向《JNA亚洲珠宝》透露,随着快时尚潮流盛 行,消费者倾向于更实惠、物有所值的日常首饰。而抖音 直播则迎合了这种快速发展的市场需求。 他表示,珍珠及和田玉是该公司直播中最受欢迎的 首饰类别。此外,红宝石和祖母绿的平价替代品也日益受 到追捧。刘补充说,女性消费者偏爱简单但时尚的设计。 佳丽珍珠(香港)公司副总经理王慧珍也表示,珍珠在 线上极受消费者追捧。该公司旗下品牌爱迪生珍珠与直 播账号蜜蜂惊喜社合作,于今年6月在淘宝上举办了一 场直播,总网站成交金额为3,800万元人民币(约530万美 元),其中极光小米珠项链和月光女神项链的销售额合计 为800,000元人民币(约112,028美元)。 市场转型 刘川东认为,直播既提高珠宝零售额,也有助制造商 和供应商扩大业务,从而支持珠宝业发展。他解释道:“我 们通过创新技术分析消费者的数据,以了解买家的需求。 然後我们与珠宝制造商分享这些资讯,这样他们就可以 生产出满足客户期望的珠宝首饰。” 此外,云上叙的目标是促进制造商和材料供应商之间 更紧密的合作,以开发更高质量的产品。同时,促进供应 链提升供货速度和确保有足够的库存,以配合直播量多 而快速的交易。 龙之珍珠有限公司也成功利用直播。该公司董事长蔡 文江表示,该公司近年推出成品首饰系列作为B2C策略, 且利用直播来开拓线上销售。 龙之珍珠专营海水珍珠,20多年为中国内地珠宝品 牌提供产品。 新珠宝系列以其注册品牌Akoya® Jewelry推出。蔡文 江表示,龙之珍珠成功地利用直播来促进其数字业务,并 与消费者建立联系。他指成功方程式是提供高质量的产 品和专业的服务,加上有稳定的供应链支持。 “直播是一个很好的营销渠道。我们通过直播获得 了关于我们消费者的大数据,包括消费者对珍珠的价格、 款式和质量的期望。根据这些准确的资讯,我们可以更有 效地利用公司资源,提供符合终端消费者需求的产品。” 然而,这绝非易事。蔡文江说,刚起步时只有几个人会 观看现场直播,但公司“不断评估和改进”,并提供高质量 的产品来赢得消费者的信心。大约七至八个月後,观众的 参与度和线上销售额才明显提升。 潮宏基集团则表示,直播在疫情期间变得尤其重要。 在疫情的影响下,其1,000家零售店中近90%都要关闭。 因此,该公司实行“云店”线上零售策略,开设一家智慧商 店,并进行直播活动,以吸引目标受众。 疫情期间,潮宏基集团与腾讯智慧零售联手,在微信 的云店小程序中,举办多场直播。该平台有助公司接触更 多潜在消费者,以及提高销售额,这对潮宏基集团来说非 常成功。在三个小时的直播中,该公司录得接近7,000万 元人民币(约980万美元)的总网站成交额。 潮宏基集团董事长廖创宾说∶“通过在微信生态的持 续耕耘,潮宏基加速数字化转型进程,在疫情期间实现逆 势增长。” 全球各地的珠宝商也瞄准直播这高效的电子商务 工具。香港地区珠宝制造商和批发商亿运有限公司总监 Eldwin Wong表示,留意到通过直播销售珠宝产品的客户 越来越多,特别是来自菲律宾、韩国、日本和泰国的客户。 Liu Chuandong, president of Yun Shang Xu, hosting a livestreaming session at Jewellery Seasons China 2023 云上叙董事长刘川东在2023年中国珠宝季(深圳)举行期间主持直播
INNOVATION 创新科技 20 | JNA September/October 2023 | Jennifer Henricus | Additive Manufacturing or 3D printing is making inroads in the jewellery industry, with technological advances and designer adoption yielding fresh approaches and manifold possibilities for production and design. 增材制造,或称 3D 打印,在珠宝制造行业欣欣向荣。随着技术日新月异, 设计师也乐于应用,从而衍生出更新颖的制作方式,发挥更丰富的创造力。 PRINTED JEWELLERY: Transforming production and design The revolutionary digital technology of printing jewellery direct from precious metal powders has finally come into its own. After more than a decade of intense research, massive investment and consistent encouragement and knowledge transfer down the supply chain, pioneers of the process are pleased: International jewellery brands and designers are finally embracing the potential of innovation and differentiation for their products via 3D printing. Direct metal jewellery printing is achieved by a process known as Additive Manufacturing (AM), which involves the use of a laser beam to melt atomised precious metal powders and build CAD jewels on dedicated build platforms and supports – a process of adding precious materials within rigorous parameters. The process is given different tags and acronyms – Laser Metal Fusion (LMF) or Laser Beam Powder Bed Fusion (PBF-LB) or Selective Laser Melting (SLM) technology. Providers of the printing/build service are usually precious metal alloy manufacturers and suppliers. They have in-house AM facilities set up in partnership with a recognised AM machine manufacturer. They develop their own precious metal alloys, atomise their powders, develop the build plates and supports, and have in-house engineers and tech experts to manage the whole process including recycling and refining the metal with the intention of reducing waste and making the process extremely sustainable. Manufacturers and designers agree that platinum performs best for the AM process, especially because cast platinum encounters problems such as porosity. However, in terms of numbers, gold pieces seem to be ahead of platinum. Key to recent AM success is the quality of atomised powder alloys and increased accuracy of machines plus creative knowledge on how to get the best out of the process.The choice of the type of design to print is crucial. The rule is: If it can be cast, do not print. Lightweight voluminous pieces with a tailored weight and thickness are a favoured choice. Titanium jewellery production is increasing, too. The metal is lighter than the traditional precious metals used in Elements Rainbow bracelet with coloured gemstones and Elements Pure necklace with Swiss blue topaz and diamonds, both printed in 18-karat gold, by Boltenstern Boltenstern的Elements Rainbow彩色宝石手链和Elements Pure项链,镶嵌瑞士蓝托 帕石和钻石,均以 18K 金打印 打印珠宝:生产与设计之变革
INNOVATION 创新科技 JNA September/October 2023 | 21 Producing all the precious metal powders internally, Progold prints in 18-karat yellow, red and white gold, 950 platinum and titanium, Dal Sasso added. Design-led progress A reason for current success is that design thinking has moved beyond conventional - think, cast - designs and best results seem to be achieved when there is good cooperation between designers and manufacturers. German designer Tom Rucker is a pioneer in using printed platinum components as building blocks for his complex award-winning jewels. He has components printed by a German metals specialist using their proprietary atomised platinum alloy powders. “AM delivers the quality and precision I require for my custom pieces,” he explained. Rucker combines printed components with his laserwelding technique. For his turquoise ring, the shank was printed directly in platinum 950 from a CAD file and later filled in with a micro laser-welded structure. The turquoise was welded into the printed setting and finished with pink sapphires. “Such an accurate and polished edge will be impossible with traditional stone techniques,” he noted. In Vienna, Austria, an architect-turned-jeweller propelled a classic 1964 jewellery brand, Boltenstern, into the future with direct metal 3D printed jewels. The revolution happened when the daughter of the founder, Marie Boltenstern, moved to the helm of the company in 2015. Her architecture education and practice had focused on emerging technologies: Computational design and digital fabrication techniques such as 3D printing, robots and CNC machines. “My passion for complex geometry and coding of shapes became a foundation for our designs. They are based on complex mathematical codes and cannot be crafted by hand or conventional techniques,” said Marie, who is the brand's managing director and head of design. Build chamber of a Laser Beam Powder Bed Fusion (PBF-LB) machine at Progold Internal Projects Progold 自家项目的激光束粉末床融合 (PBF-LB) 机器腔体 MetalPixel printed bracelet by Nuovi Nuovi 的 MetalPixel 打印手链 From left: Bangles printed in silver and gold with pink and green bioresin by Frillz 左起:Frillz的打印银手镯缀以粉色 生物树脂、和打印金手镯缀以绿色生 物树脂 jewellery and thus offers the advantage of creating large, statement pieces without affecting wearability. A pioneer in the field of precious metal AM is Progold SpA in Trissino, Italy that has been printing jewels for more than a decade using the process of SLM. Luca Dal Sasso, sales manager of Progold said, “The best news is that brands we work with now more and more understand the process and its possibilities, providing us tailored 3D files specifically made to exploit the features of the SLM process." The current trend is moving from medium and small producers to big international brands, Dal Sasso observed. The process has three main steps. “First, we analyse and support the customer’s 3D CAD file, then we proceed to prototype development and finally, we move on to production of the jewellery pieces. The customer receives the completed piece in rough form, ready for finishing and stone setting,” he explained.
INNOVATION 创新科技 22 | JNA September/October 2023 Each piece, printed at a production partner’s facility in the United Kingdom, is a complete jewel with closures, and some with gemstones enclosed during the printing process. Most are in recycled 18-karat gold but she does special custom productions in platinum, an excellent material for printing. Post-production is at the atelier in Vienna where skilled craftsmen, some who have worked with the brand for more than 20 years, finish each piece. According to Marie, working with algorithms allows the brand to customise pieces at scale through in-house developed customisation tools for both B2C and B2B clients. “Our aim is to establish a decentralised print-on-demand business model with no waste, low stock and personalised customer journey. We take accountability for what we bring to life, and our aspiration is to behave with integrity and responsibility at every step. As a female-led team, we work on projects to empower women in tech and young entrepreneurs, which form part of our customer community. This is specifically interesting for forward-going markets such as Asia and the US,” she shared. Nuovi Gioielli in Mussolente, Italy, advanced its core jewellery manufacturing competency with 3D printed jewels. The company bought its first machines more than a decade ago and now creates precious collections for its own brands while providing printing services for overseas brands. Damiano Carlesso of the Research and Development/ Design team of Nuovi said, “Mixing different production techniques has always been our specialty. Now we can print a jewel and finish it manually or we can add intermediate steps to get more precision or special decorations or create jewels with a mixture of techniques: LMF plus casting plus CNC or LMF plus stamping plus laser marking.” LMF enables the creation of very light but voluminous structures; completely closed hollow volumes or articulated and movable parts. Each of these characteristics applied to the jewel is an added value to the final piece. The most used are platinum, palladium gold as well as rose and yellow gold. Printed platinum ring by Nuovi Nuovi 的打印铂金戒指 Printed platinum ring frame set with turquoise and pink sapphires and finished with laser welded structure by Tom Rucker Tom Rucker 的铂金打印戒指镶嵌绿松石和粉红 色蓝宝石,并采用激光焊接结构部件 The company’s fabric-like patented “MetalPixel” embodies the essence of what can be achieved with LMF – its applications are endless. “We collaborated with powder and printer manufacturers to better develop the process and envisage it as a bridge from jewellery to fashion,” Carlesso enthused. Innovation upon innovation Denmark-based designer Simone Faurschou who loves to build bridges between jewellery and digital technology has created a jewellery “first” – developing a precious-metal 3D-printed collection in partnership with tech futurist Cathy Hackl, with an NFC (near field communication technology) chip embedded in each piece. The limited-edition collection called Frillz comprises 100 necklaces and 100 bracelets whose NFC chip can be scanned with a smart phone. Hackl, described as the “godmother of the metaverse” who works with luxury brands to embrace digitalisation and tech, combined her expertise with Faurschou’s techsavvy design and jewellery-making skills. “It has been such fun for us both to work across our different industries, a collaboration that has resulted in a first of its kind for jewellery,” said Faurschou. The technology allows the customer to scan the jewellery piece, mint their digital asset such as an NFT (Non-Fungible Token) that takes them straight to their proof of ownership or authentication on the blockchain, she explained. “It took me several months to work out how to implement the tech into the metal to ensure it was still scannable with a smart phone.” Faurschou uses a gemstone-like bio-resin in translucent colours of black, white, pink and green to create simple elegant jewels, each cleverly hiding the chip living within. She designed and developed all the pieces, with prototyping at her workshop studio in Copenhagen. “We limited the production of pieces in solid 18-karat gold to 10 necklaces and 10 bracelets and the remaining 180 pieces are in sterling silver and gold vermeil, with price Printed cuff with coloured gemstones by Nuovi Nuovi 的彩色宝石打印手镯
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