MARKET INTELLIGENCE 46 | JNA May/June 2023 品牌、透明度、可追溯性、技术及可持续性——这些 都是塑造钻石行业未来的力量。世界钻石交易所 联合会(WFDB)主席Yoram Dvash在第40届世界 钻石大会上指出，全球钻石贸易需要找出、响应和适应从根 本上改变消费者优先顺序和购物习惯的趋势。 他表示：“在社交媒体时代，每位拥有数百万关注者的名 人或网红都可以改变世界——或至少改变潮流趋势。我们必 须意识这些变化，并加以研究，留意它们如何影响业务发展。 然后我们必须逐步适应这些变化。”Dvash在3月27至30日以 色列国际钻石周期间举行的大会上，再次当选为WFDB主席。 他留意到Y世代和Z世代的新消费客群，对透明度和可追 溯性的要求越来越高。尽管他们经常活跃在社交媒体的虚 拟世界中，但也有密切留意身边的事物，而且见识广博，希 望确保购买的钻石不会危害社会和地球环境。 Dvash解释道：“始于年轻消费客群的潮流，很快便会传 播到更广阔的市场领域。我们的行业以往呈封闭和不透明的 状态，但现在必须加以开放，以适应新一代消费者的需求。” 品牌重要性 在另一次采访中，戴比尔斯品牌首席执行官Marc Jacheet强调品牌在推动吸引力、建立体验和分享价值方面 的重要性,尤其是在Z世代和Alpha世代的消费者中。 我们发现，这些因素对28%的Z世代消费者的购买模式 有关键影响。目前，他们还不是绝大多数，但这是一个非常 明显的新兴趋势，将在未来推动钻石需求，”Jacheet告诉 《JNA亚洲珠宝》。 他指出，以可持续发展为核心的奢侈珠宝品牌预计将在 未来几十年内增长20%以上。相比之下，无品牌珠宝市场预 计增长3%至4%，而品牌奢侈珠宝类别有望跃升8%至12%。 根本性的变化也在席卷钻石零售市场。Dvash指出，拥有 大量营销预算的大型品牌和连锁店正在垄断这个曾经由小 店主导的市场。 他解释，(大型连锁店)投放在广告的大量资金带来成果。 主流品牌正迫使小商店关门。虽然这样可以创造更大的钻 石需求，但将令行业集中在极少数人手中。拥有强大品牌的 商店将会发展壮大，而小商店则面临倒闭。” Jacheet认为品牌也在改变零售体验，例如成功的设计 品牌使每个接触点都具有吸引力。“品牌不仅仅是广告宣传 和促销或吸引客流到商店的工具。实际上，他们是在零售层 面，通过塑造和提供客户体验建立起来的。因此，接触点与 接触点之间的一致性是品牌承诺的根本。”他说。 挑战Dvash指，钻石行业亦要面对各种挑战，包括实验室培育 钻石(LGD)带来的竞争。但他指出，虽然LGD在美国市场取得 了重大进展，但在中国并没有那么成功，因为中国消费者宁 愿牺牲大小而选择天然钻石。 Dvash指出，尽管LGD钻石在美国市场发展蓬勃，在中国 却成绩稍逊，原因在于中国消费者偏好天然钻石，就算尺寸 较小也认为较值得购买。 他说：“LGD钻石将以前从未计划购买钻石的消费者带 进市场，另一方面也在侵蚀天然钻石的销售额。在未来的五 至十年，这些消费者可能仍然会购买天然钻石。但如果LGD 钻石的价格持续下调，天然钻石和LGD钻石或会成为两个独 立的产品类别，平分秋色。” 在钻石商的角度，天然钻石和LGD钻石和平共处的另 一个必要条件是全面披露。针对此问题，天然钻石委员会 (NDC)最新发布以“消除关于钻石行业的迷思和误解”为题 Conroy Cheng, vice chairman of Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group, said, “Wealthy consumers in China are showing a propensity to spend on high-quality luxury items. While the pandemic hampered luxury jewellery sales in China over the past few years, we are now seeing an upward trajectory that is expected to continue.” According to Cheng, McKinsey research commissioned by the group indicated that branded jewellery sales in China would increase by 10 to 14 per cent per year moving forward. And while the country’s middle- and high-income population currently numbers around 190 million, diamond consumption penetration, annual diamond spending per person and number of pieces of jewellery owned per person are all less than 50 per cent of the levels in the US and Japan. “This data suggests that China’s diamond market has tremendous potential for growth as its per capita income level continues to rise. With such positive tailwinds driving jewellery sales, brands that know China well and can respond to changing consumption patterns have an opportunity to build a strong position in the market,” Cheng disclosed. The Chow Tai Fook official cited jewellery gifting for special occasions and heirlooms, self-purchases among younger professionals, and the Guochao trend of incorporating cultural elements in modern designs as fuelling Chinese diamond jewellery demand. Longer-term growth would require greater involvement in Environmental, Social and Governmental (ESG) matters to win over an increasingly socially conscious Chinese market, he added. De Beers is also eyeing the China market for growth of its jewellery retail network. In February, it opened its fourth De Beers Jewellers store in Hong Kong. “Asia, predominantly Hong Kong and mainland China, are our top priorities for De Beers Jewellers. As the country reopens, it will be the fastest-growing market for luxury diamond jewellery in the coming years,” Jacheet said. To him, the rebound in Chinese diamond demand will be driven by tremendous savings during the pandemic, consumers’ penchant to celebrate the reopening of the market, along with underlying trends such as interest in brands, provenance and ESG. “China’s growing middle class – tens of millions of people who will access the luxury world through brands – and its influential Gen Z consumers are a valuable reserve of future clients who would drive growth,” Jacheet said.
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