MAY/JUNE 2023 ISSUE #439 US$15 Jewellery Modern reality of diamonds Meet the “Extraordinary 40” “非凡40”菁英 钻石贸易的蜕变 New frontiers: Opportunities in Dubai and China 拓新领域：探索迪拜和中国的机遇 (Part 1 第一部分)
CONTENTS Issue #439 | MAY/JUNE 2023 16 Dubai fortifies role as next gem and jewellery hub 迪拜巩固新一代宝石及珠宝枢纽之地位 8DIGEST 市场指标 8 LVMH’s jewellery group posts solid Q1 gains LVMH珠宝业务收益首季呈稳健增长 24 PERSPECTIVE 精辟视野 24 Era of modernisation for ICA ICA昂然步进现代化新时代 10 FOCUS 焦点 10 China’s lower-tier cities fuel jewellers’ growth engines 中国低线城市成为珠宝商的增长引擎
35 JNA 40th ANNIVERSARY SPECIAL JNA 40周年专题报道 35 Meet the "Extraordinary 40" “非凡40”菁英 36 David Block: Driving innovation in diamond solutions 推动钻石解决方案创新 37 Damien Cody: Passion for opals and more 热爱澳宝的专家 38 Susan Jacques: Safeguarding public trust 守护公众信任 39 Navrattan Kothari: Inspiring excellence on a global scale 激发卓越，领先全球 40 Stephen Lussier: Spreading the “diamond dream” 传扬“钻石梦” 41 Mimi Ou Yang: Turning the spotlight on jade 把世界目光聚焦到翡翠的先驱 42 Lin Qiang: Cultivating China’s diamond trade 推动中国钻石贸易 43 Yoshihiro Shimizu: Elevating Japan’s pearl sector 提升日本珍珠业地位 On the Cover 封面 Gübelin Jewellery presents a one-of-a-kind 10.65-carat Burmese sapphire Blue Lagoon cocktail ring with sapphire, tourmaline and diamond accents. 古柏林珠宝推出一款独一无二的10.65克拉缅甸Blue Lagoon蓝宝石鸡尾酒戒指， 镶嵌了蓝宝石、碧玺和钻石作点缀。 Digital version 电子版： https://news.jewellerynet.com/en/publications 32 Harakh sparks joy in world of fine jewellery Harakh于高级珠宝界焕发无限喜悦 52 Jewellery fairs power market resurgence 珠宝展为市场复苏提供动力 56 JGTD: High hopes for promising B2B fair in Dubai JGTD有望跻身顶尖B2B展会 44 MARKET INTELLIGENCE 市场情报 44 Modern reality of diamonds 钻石贸易的蜕变 49 “Estrela de Fura” poised to break more records “Estrela de Fura”红宝石势将打破更 多纪录 50 GoGreen Diamonds sees dazzling future for lab-grown diamonds GoGreen Diamonds窥见实验室 培育钻石之耀眼未来 28 DESIGN 设计 28 Scintillating indulgences 亮丽清新的奢华珠宝
Every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information in JNA. However, the publication of such information is at the sole discretion of the publisher. The publisher and the editorial team shall not be held responsible or in any way held liable for any errors, omissions or inaccuracies in this publication, or for any consequences arising therefrom. The contents of this publication are protected by copyright and cannot be reproduced, photocopied, transmitted or posted in any form without the prior written consent of the publisher. 本得公以司任已何尽方力式确翻保印《、J仿N制A亚或洲转珠载宝本》刊所物刊任登何的部内份容之正文确字无或误图。片如。因错漏而引致任何损失，本公司概不负责。本公司保留刊登有关资料的一切权利。版权所有，如未获得本公司事先之书面允许，不 Printed by Asia One Printing Limited,13/F, Asia One Tower, 8 Fung Yip Street, Chai Wan, Hong Kong. 印刷商: 宏亚印务有限公司香港柴湾丰业街8号宏亚大厦13楼 Associate Publisher & Editor-in-Chief Olivia Quiniquini 副出版人及主编 程爱莉 EDITORIAL 编辑部 Deputy Editor Bernardette Sto. Domingo 副编辑 杜明高 Assistant Digital Product Manager William Yick 助理数码产品经理 易昌耀 ADVERTISING 广告部 Assistant Director Christine Sinn 区域营业总监 冼蕙珠 Digital & Sales Manager Ken Chan 数码业务及销售经理 陈赞健 MARKETING 市場推广部 Senior Marketing & Communications Manager Ronny Pang 高级市场及传讯经理 彭秋影 Marketing & Communications Executive Vincent Wong 市场及传讯主任 黄志伟 PRODUCTION 制作部 Production Manager Jennifer So 制作部经理 苏丽娟 Senior Designer Eva Kam 高级设计师 甘铭灵 Assistant Event and Media Service Manager Bonnie Law 助理项目及媒体服务经理 罗凤伦 ADVERTISING REPRESENTATIVES 广告代理 China 中国: 广州代表处 胡淑晶 | Tel 电话: (86) 20 8666 0158 Email 电邮: [email protected] Germany 德国: Liz Dobelmann | Tel 电话: (49) 721 384 1881 Email 电邮: [email protected] Italy 意大利: Mauro Arati | Tel 电话: (39) 02048517853 Email 电邮: [email protected] Japan 日本: Nobuaki Nito | Tel 电话: (81) 3 52961020 Email 电邮: [email protected] Taiwan 台湾: Rita Hung | Tel 电话: (886) 2 2738 3898 Email 电邮: [email protected] Thailand 泰国: Anna Vichvech | Tel 电话: (66) 2 036 0500 Email 电邮: [email protected] US 美国: Bonnie Chan | Tel 电话: (1) 347 906 4693 Email 电邮: [email protected] President & CEO - Asia Margaret Ma Connolly 亚洲主席及行政总裁 马颖 Senior Vice President - Asia David Bondi 亚洲高级副总裁 庞大为 Director of Jewellery Fairs Celine Lau 珠宝展览部总监 刘小雯 Published by Informa Markets 出版 1701-1705, China Resources Building, 26 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong 香港湾仔港湾道26号华润大厦1701-1705室 Email 电邮: [email protected] JewelleryNet.com
DIGEST 8 | JNA May/June 2023 humphery / Shutterstock.com Tiffany Lock Campaign featuring Rosé of South Korean band Blackpink 韩国女团Blackpink成员Rosé代言蒂芙尼Lock首饰系列 Photo Credit: Tiffany & Co 照片鸣谢：蒂芙尼 25.8亿欧元(约28.4亿美元) 可持续发展评级LGD钻石 €2.58 billion (around US$2.84 billion) Revenues of luxury group LVMH’s jewellery segment during the first quarter of 2023, which it attributed to solid demand for Tiffany & Co’s newly launched Lock jewellery collection as well as Bulgari’s iconic Serpenti line, which is celebrating its 75th year. The figure is 11 per cent higher than Q1 2022 revenues of €2.33 billion (around US$2.55 billion). 奢侈品集团LVMH的珠宝部门在2023年第一季度的收入；这个数 字比2022年第一季度的23.3亿欧元(约25.5亿美元)高出11%。该 集团将此归因于市场对蒂芙尼的全新Lock首饰系列，以及庆祝 面世75周年的宝格丽Serpenti系列的强劲需求。 China’s gross domestic product growth in the first quarter of 2023, which showed strong rebound in consumption. The government earlier reported a 5.9 per cent jump in jewellery sales in the first two months of the year as the local economy continues its journey to recovery. US-based Helzberg Diamonds recently launched its rêve™ line of lab-grown diamonds, which is 100 per cent third-party rated and certified for sustainability, making Helzberg Diamonds the first jewellery retailer in the US accredited by SCS Global Services to offer diamonds certified under the strict SCS-007 Jewelry Sustainability Standard. 中国2023年第一季度的国内生产总值增长，显示消费力强劲 反弹。中国政府早前指出，由于内地经济持续复苏，今年首两 个月的珠宝销售额已上升了5.9%。 美国钻石公司Helzberg Diamonds最近推出的rêve™实验室培育 钻石(LGD)系列，百分百通过第三方评级并获得可持续发展认证， 使Helzberg Diamonds成为美国第一家获得SCS Global Services 认可的珠宝零售商，可提供经SCS-007珠宝可持续发展标准严格 认证的钻石。 Sustainability-rated LGDs 4.5%
市场指标 JNA May/June 2023 | 9 Online Trade Updates 新闻快讯 GIA reverts to paper reports GIA重新发行纸本报告 Silver jewellery drives sales for retailers in the US 美国零售商凭银饰产品推动业绩 Kent Wong to oversee Chow Tai Fook's China operations 黄绍基接管周大福内地业务 The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) is once again producing printed GIA Diamond Dossier reports following industry concerns on the security and viability of digital-only versions. 美国宝石研究院(GIA)再次发行实体版GIA钻石鉴 定精简版报告(Diamond Dossier)，以回应业界对 全数字报告的安全性和可行性之关注。 US jewellery retailers said strong demand for silver jewellery pushed sales and profit margins higher in 2022 from 2021, demonstrating silver jewellery’s rising consumer appeal. 美国珠宝零售商表示，银饰的强劲需求令2022年 的销售额和利润率超越2021年，显示银饰对消费 者的吸引力正在上升。 Kent Wong, Chow Tai Fook’s executive and managing director, corporate and Hong Kong, Macau and overseas is taking over Chow Tai Fook Group’s China business following the resignation of Sai-Cheong Chan, executive and managing director for mainland China. 扎根香港地区的珠宝零售商——周大福珠宝集团， 其港、澳、内地和海外业务将由同一位领袖管理和 推动。周大福执行董事兼董事总经理(中国内地)陈 世昌辞任后，执行董事兼董事总经理(企业及港澳 与海外事务)黄绍基将接管集团的中国内地业务。 Our digital platform provides additional content for an even more comprehensive industry perspective. Scan the QR code for the full story and more trade news. 我们的数字平台载有更多更全面的 行业视角报道，请扫瞄二维码查看 全文和更多行业信息。 news.jewellerynet.com/en/jnanews 新RJC支持者 The Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) recently welcomed the Istanbul Jewellery Show, organised by Informa Markets, as one of its official supporters. RJC supporters play a critical role in extending the council’s reach by disseminating information about the RJC and its initiatives. 责任珠宝业委员会(RJC)最近欢迎伊斯坦堡珠宝展成为其官方支持者之 一，该展览会由Informa Markets主办。RJC的支持者通过推广有关该会 及其倡议的信息，在扩大其影响力方面担当重要角色。 New RJC supporter 2.2% Decline in US retail sales in clothing and clothing accessory stores, which include jewellery shops, in March 2023, data from the National Retail Federation showed. Amid slower sales, spending was still higher compared with the same period last year. Overall retail sales in March dipped 1 per cent from February but rose 2.9 per cent year over year. NRF earlier said 2023 retail sales could grow between 4 per cent and 6 per cent from 2022. 根据美国全国零售联合会(NRF)的数据显示，2023年3月美国服装和服 装配饰店(包括珠宝店)的零售下降幅度。在销售放缓的情况下，消费者 支出仍然高于去年同期。3月份整体零售额较2月份下跌1%，但比去年同 期上升2.9%。NRF早些时候表示，2023年的零售额可能会比2022年增长 4%至6%。
FOCUS 10 | JNA May/June 2023 | Julius Zheng 郑嵘 | Shantou, China 中国汕头 China’s massive population of 1.411 billion people is arguably one of its most attractive qualities as a market. This translates to over a billion consumers or potential customers for consumer products. Luxury brands, jewellery included, usually make a beeline for China’s thriving metropolises. For the big names, it is imperative to have a presence in Beijing, Shanghai, Shenzhen and Guangzhou – the Tier 1 cities that house more than 10 million people each. But after decades of concentrated development, jewellery markets in these bustling consumer hubs are saturated with international and local brands. As competition in Tier 1 and Tier 2 cities intensifies, growth lies in the less developed but equally promising lower-tier markets. Over three-fourths of China’s population, 77.55 per cent to be exact, live in Tier 3 cities and below, according to the National Bureau of Statistics. Expansion in lower-tier municipalities and townships is thus of strategic importance to jewellery brands seeking further growth. Successfully navigating one’s way in this potentially lucrative terrain however requires proper product development, enhanced brand positioning, supply chain optimisation and accurate data analysis. Expansion strategy Why is demand for jewellery on the rise in China’s lower-tier cities? Well, their growing middle class has more As luxury brands crowd China’s Tier 1 and Tier 2 cities, jewellers increasingly train their sights on developing but equally promising areas for further growth. Home to younger consumers with growing disposable incomes, lower-tier cities accommodate further expansion and brand reinforcement in new markets that can yield the loyal customers of tomorrow. 随着奢侈品牌在中国一、二线城市趋向饱和，珠宝商日渐注重发展中但同样有潜力的地 区，以实现进一步增长。低线城市的年轻消费者，有不断上升的可支配收入，因此品牌需要继续扩张 和强化，以培养未来的忠实客户群。 中国低线城市 为珠宝商提供 增长动力 China’s lower-tier cities fuel jewellers’ growth engines
焦点 JNA May/June 2023 | 11 disposable income than ever before, allowing them to purchase luxury items such as jewellery. In addition, the development of e-commerce and social platforms make it easier for people living in smaller towns and rural areas to buy jewellery online, making this luxury more accessible to a wider swath of the population. Rising jewellery sales in recent years affirm lower-tier cities’ ability to drive growth. Several big chain stores rely on their local franchisees to speed up expansion, banking on the latter’s knowledge of local operations and markets. Chow Tai Fook accelerated the development of its retail outlets in Tier 3 and lower-tier cities in its financial year 2019 (from April 1, 2018 to March 31, 2019). At a time when the government was progressively promoting the continued development of urbanisation and infrastructure in the lower-tier cities and rural areas, the conglomerate saw great potential for development in these locations, using the franchise model to increase market penetration in lower-tier cities, especially county-level towns. Chow Tai Fook further expanded its market share in lower-tier cities in recent years with the strong support of its franchisees. In the past three years, the group increased the number of Chow Tai Fook retail outlets in mainland China from approximately 3,500 to over 7,000 and gradually increased its nationwide market share of seven to eight per cent to 10 to 11 per cent. Kent Wong, managing director of Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group, said, “Over the past few years, Chow Tai Fook capitalised on the opportunities in lower-tier cities and the strong demand from franchisees to open shops, enabling the brand to achieve the milestone of 7,000 Chow Tai Fook jewellery retail outlets by FY2023, two years ahead of schedule.” To further expand brand influence and market share, the group launched the Boutique Project in early 2022, which shifts the focus to smaller-scale businesses that require less staff, moderate investments and reasonable returns. These stores can quickly penetrate the market while supporting the innovation and entrepreneurship of the younger generation. They also actively promote product differentiation and personalised offers, grasp consumption trends and bring the brand closer to customers. According to Wong, the group’s initial target for FY2024 was to open 600 to 800 new stores in China but the actual number would depend largely on market opportunities. “Approximately 40 to 50 per cent will be directly operated stores, mainly in Tier 1 and Tier 2 cities. The remainder will be franchised shops, which will be the main vehicle for expansion into lower-tier cities,” he explained. Market preference Consumers in China’s different cities have their own set of preferences when it comes to jewellery, with plain gold pieces moving well in lower-tier markets. According to the 2021 China Jewelry Industry Development Report released by the Gems & Jewelry Trade Association of China in April 2022, overall jewellery retail sales in China came up to RMB 720 billion (US$111.6 billion) in 2021. Plain gold jewellery, jadeite and diamond jewellery were still the largest categories, accounting for 58 per cent, 14 per cent and 14 per cent of the market, respectively. Sales of plain gold jewellery alone reached RMB 420 billion (US$65.1 billion), growing 23.5 per cent year on year. “Demand for gold jewellery is currently higher in lowertier cities than Tier 1 and Tier 2 cities,” said Wong. “In addition, more young consumers in mainland China view % share of point of sales 零售点占比 % share of sales 零售值占比 Tier 1 cities 一线城市 12.2% 14.4% Tier 2 cities 二线城市 41.3% 47.4% Tier 3 cities 三线城市 22.1% 19.9% Tier 4 cities and others 四线城市及其他 24.4% 18.3% Source: Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group 数据来源：周大福珠宝集团 Chow Tai Fook sales in China (as of mid-FY2023) 周大福各线城市零售点与零售值占比（2023财年中期） Jewellery from Chow Tai Fook 周大福的珠宝
FOCUS 12 | JNA May/June 2023 diamond jewellery as a symbol of love. Since the wedding jewellery market in lower-tier cities has yet to be tapped, we are ready to capture this opportunity and enhance our product portfolio to meet the needs of millennials who are eager to express themselves.” Growth opportunities Wedding rings account for more than half of the Chinese diamond market, according to the 2022 Annual Diamond Trading Report by Shanghai Diamond Exchange. The number of marriage registrations in China has however been on a steady decline in recent years, data from the China Civil Affairs Bureau indicate. Wedding rates peaked in 2013, which witnessed 13.47 million marriage registrations, before declining every year since. In 2022, only 3.732 million marriages were recorded nationwide, nearly half of the number registered in 2021. While 2022 was a unique case as pandemic-related disruptions prompted the postponement of most wedding plans, the downtrend in weddings could be difficult to reverse in a short period of time. The report also pointed out that 80 per cent of newlywed couples in Tier 1 cities plan to purchase wedding rings, and diamond rings of 1 carat or more have become the preferred choice of many couples for their weddings. Further growth in wedding jewellery sales is thus poised to come from second- and third-tier cities as well as lowertiered markets. Internet connectivity likewise plays a role in determining market potential. As of December 2022, the number of Internet users in China reached 1.067 billion, some 35.49 million more than was reported in December 2021, according to the 51st Statistical Report on the Development Status of the Internet in China prepared by the China Internet Network Information Center (CNNIC). The country’s Internet penetration rate meanwhile was 75.6 per cent. Making inroads All these growth factors echo the urgency for jewellers to expand in lower-tier cities. Declining marriage rates imply that more young consumers intend to live independent lives, with more disposable income and greater opportunities for selfreward purchases. Establishing a strong presence in lowertier cities will enable jewellers to better cater to these burgeoning customers. Omnichannel initiatives will likewise help promote brands to the billion of netizens in China. 0 200 400 600 800 1000 1200 1400 1600 2012 1324 2013 1347 2014 1307 2015 1225 2016 1143 2017 1063 2018 1014 2019 927 2020 813 2021 736.6 2022 373.2 Source: China Civil Affairs Bureau 来源：中国民政局 Marriage registration in China 2012-2022 (unit: 10,000 couples) 2012-2022 中国结婚登记人数量（单位：10,000对） Kent Wong, managing director, Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group 周大福珠宝集团董事总经理黄绍基先生
焦点 JNA May/June 2023 | 13 China’s tier-city system 中国城市分级体系 China’s cities are ranked on a matrix that includes GDP, income level, municipal administration and population. It also takes into consideration the concentration of commercial resources, importance as an urban hub, activity of urban residents, diversity of lifestyles and growth flexibility. Tier 1 cities are generally the most developed and have a highincome population and a higher cost of living. Tier 2 cities are less crowded, have a younger population and more technologically advanced sectors but costs are still relatively high. Tier 3 and 4 cities are on a growth trajectory, with a younger population with increasing disposable income, lower housing and living costs, shorter commutes and more leisure time. Infrastructure however is still being developed. 中国城市根据包括GDP、收入水平、市政管理和人口在内的 维度进行分级，还考虑商业资源集聚度、城市枢纽性、城市 人活跃度、生活方式多样性和未来可塑性。一线城市通常是 最发达的，收入高，且生活成本高。二线城市不那么拥挤，但 成本仍然相对较高。三四线城市正处于增长轨道，其年轻人 口具有增长中的可支配收入、较低的住房生活成本和通勤 时间，还有更多闲暇时间，不过基础设施仍在发展中。 Classification 城市类别 Cities 城市 Tier 1 4 cities 一线（4个) Beijing, Shanghai, Shenzhen, Guangzhou 北京、上海、深圳、广州 New Tier 1 (15 cities) 新一线（15个） Chengdu, Chongqing, Hangzhou, Xi'an, Wuhan, Suzhou, Zhengzhou, Nanjing, Tianjin, Changsha, Dongguan, Ningbo, Foshan, Hefei, Qingdao 成都、重庆、杭州、西安、武汉、苏州、郑州、 南京、天津 、长沙、东莞、宁波、佛山、合肥、 青岛 Tier 2 30 cities 二线（30个） Kunming, Shenyang, Jinan, Wuxi, Xiamen, Fuzhou, Wenzhou, Jinhua, Harbin, Dalian, among others 昆明、沈阳、济南、无锡、厦门、福州、温州、 金华、哈尔滨、大连等 Tier 3 70 cities 三线（70个） Taizhou, Haikou, Urumqi, Luoyang, Langfang, Shantou, Huzhou, Xianyang, Yancheng, Jining, among others 台州、海口、乌鲁木齐、洛阳、廊坊、汕头、湖 州、咸阳、盐城、济宁等 Tier 4 90 cities 四线（90个） Yibin, Anshan, Nanchong, Qinhuangdao, Bozhou, Changde, Jinzhong, Xiaogan, Lishui, Pingdingshan, among others 宜宾、鞍山、南充、秦皇岛、亳州、常德、晋 中、孝感、丽水、平顶山等 Chow Tai Fook is bullish on the growth potential of lower-tier cities where consumers are likely to spend more on jewellery as per capita income continues to rise and consumer tastes gradually improve, Wong stated. Unlocking the potential of these emerging markets however requires a tailored approach that identifies and caters to the values, motivations and preferences of local consumers. Companies need to offer products and services that meet the needs of their target clients in terms of quality, design, pricing and retail experience, among others. In addition, they should develop strategies to create awareness and build loyalty among luxury consumers in these areas. Businesses must also communicate with customers through both digital and offline channels. Finally, they must devise promotional campaigns and pricing strategies that match the purchasing power of consumers in these cities while still maintaining their premium image. Through such initiatives, jewellers can increase their market share in lower-tier cities and capitalise on the wave of luxury consumption in China. 77.55% Percentage of China’s population that reside in cities classified as Tier 3, 4 and below, according to the country’s National Bureau of Statistics 中国三、四线及以下城市 人口百分比（中国国家统计局数据） 中国拥有14.11亿的庞大人口，从市场角度来看，这 是最具吸引力的条件之一，同时也意味着这里有 超过10亿消费产品的消费者或潜在客户。包括珠 宝在内的奢侈品牌通常都会在中国繁荣的大都市中谋求发 展。对于大公司而言，他们必须在北京、上海、深圳和广州这 些拥有千万人口的一线城市开展业务。 然而，经过几十年的集中发展，一、二线城市的珠宝市场 已经趋向饱和，不论是国际品牌还是本土品牌。随着一线和 二线城市的竞争加剧，增长点就转向发展中但同样有潜力 的低线城市市场 。 根据国家统计局的数据，超过四分之三的中国人口 (77.55%)生活在三线城市及以下的地区。因此，在低线城市 和乡镇的扩张，对寻求大幅增长的珠宝品牌具有战略意义。 不过，要在这一个富有潜力的领域游刃有余，需要产品研发 升级、品牌形象改善、商品供应链优化、系统化管理，以及数 据精准化分析 。 扩张策略 为什么中国的低线城市对珠宝的需求正在上升？这些城 市中崛起的中产阶级拥有比以往更多的可支配收入，使他 们能够购买珠宝等奢侈品。此外，电子商务平台和社交媒体 的发展，使生活在小城镇和农村地区的人士更容易在网上 购买珠宝。 Source 来源: ‘Ranking of Cities’ Business Attractiveness in China 2022” by Yicai 第一财经《2022城市商业魅力排行榜》
FOCUS 14 | JNA May/June 2023 近年来，珠宝销售的上升肯定了低线城市推动增长的能 力。一些大型连锁店依靠当地加盟商来加快扩张速度，因为 他们一直在该地区经营，对当地市场更加熟悉。 周大福于2019财政年度（2018年4月1日至2019年3月31 日）开始加快拓展三线及较次级城市零售点的发展。 当时政府逐步推进较次级城市和农村地区城镇化，以及 基建的持续发展，集团认为这些城市的发展潜力巨大，故而 积极利用加盟模式开拓较次级城市，尤其是县级城镇的巿 场，以提高市场渗透率。 近年来，在加盟商的大力支持下，周大福集团持续扩大 低线城市的市场份额。过去三年，于内地开设的周大福珠宝 零售点由约3,500个增加至现在逾7,000个，全国的市占率亦 由7-8%逐步提升至10-11%。 周大福珠宝集团董事总经理黄绍基先生介绍：“过去数 年，周大福把握了低线城市的机遇，以及加盟商开店需求强 烈，令品牌能提前两年——在2023财年完成7,000家周大福 珠宝零售点这个阶段性目标。” 为扩大品牌影响力及市场占有率，2022年初，周大福推 出“精致店项目”，聚焦小体量商业，具有面积适中、人员简、 投资理想、合理回报等优势。这些门店可以快速进占市场，同 时扶持青年创新创业。另外能够积极推动产品差异化、个性 化发展，把握消费场景化趋势，拉近品牌与顾客之间的距离。 据黄绍基介绍，2024财年，集团暂定以净开设600-800家 门店作为初步目标，但实际数字将取决于市场机会而有所 增减。“当中约40-50%为直营店，主要在一、二线城市。”他解 释说：“余下的为加盟店，继续专注拓展低线城市。” 市场偏好 中国不同城市的消费者偏好存在差异，素金首饰在低线 城市市场销售畅旺。 中国珠宝玉石首饰行业协会2022年4月发布了《2021年 中国珠宝行业发展报告》，2021年中国珠宝行业整体销售额 达7,200亿元人民币。 素金首饰、翡翠和钻石首饰仍是最大的品类，分别占 市场的58%，14%和14%。仅素金一项，2021年销售额就达 4,200亿元人民币，占比58%，同比增长23.5%。 “现时低线城市顾客对黄金产品需求较一、二线城市为 高，”黄绍基说。"此外，内地越来越多年轻消费者视钻石首 饰为爱情的象征，加上低线城市婚嫁首饰市场尚待开拓，我 们已准备好抓紧此良机，同时亦会强化产品组合，以迎合千 禧世代渴求表达自我的悦己需求。” 增长机会 根据《上海钻石交易所2022年度钻石交易报告》，婚戒 消费占据了中国钻石市场50%以上的市场份额。然而，中国 民政局的数据显示，近年来中国的婚姻登记数量一直在稳 步下降。 结婚率在2013年达到顶峰，见证了1,347万对结婚登记， 之后逐年下滑。2022年全国结婚登记人数仅有373.2万对， 相比2021年减少了近50%。2022年受疫情影响，大多数人的 生活节奏被扰乱，婚庆活动明显减少，具有一定的特殊性。 但从长期看，结婚登记人数的下降趋势短时间难以改变。 报告同时指出，根据之前的市场调研，国内一线城市 80%的新婚夫妇会购买婚戒，1克拉以上的钻戒已成为婚庆 消费主流。 未来的市场潜力主要来自二、三线城市，以及更低线城 市。互联网连接同样在决定市场潜力方面发挥作用。根据中 国互联网络信息中心(CNNIC)发布第51次《中国互联网络发 展状况统计报告》显示，截至2022年12月，中国网民规模达 10.67亿，较2021年12月增长3,549万人。同时，互联网普及 率达75.6%。 积极推进 所有这些增长因素均反映珠宝商在低线城市扩张的紧 迫性。结婚率的下降，意味着有更多年轻消费者计划独立生 活，并有更多的可支配收入和更多的悦己购买机会。珠宝商 在低线城市建立强大的影响力，将更能满足这些新兴顾客 的需求。全渠道举措也同样有助于向中国的10亿网民推广 品牌。 “随着人均收入持续增加，以及消费者的品味逐渐提 升，我们相信低线城市的顾客会提高珠宝首饰方面的消费， 故我们仍然看好其发展潜力。”黄绍基表示。 不过，为了成功挖掘这些新兴市场的潜力，珠宝商必须 采取量身定制的方法，以确定并迎合当地消费者的价值观、 动机和偏好。 公司需要就着质量、设计、价格、零售体验等各方面，为 目标受众提供合适的产品和服务。另外，企业应制定战略， 在这些地区的奢侈品消费者中建立起意识和忠诚度。 企业还必须通过数字和线下渠道与客户沟通。最后，需 要设计促销活动和定价策略，以配合这些城市消费者的购 买力，同时仍保持其高端形象。 通过这些举措，企业能够增加在低线城市的市场份额， 并发挥中国奢侈品消费的潜能。 About the author 笔者简介 Julius Zheng is a jewellery industry analyst and senior consultant to several important firms and institutes. Actively engaged in industry matters, he has developed various projects that connect China’s diamond and jewellery sectors with international markets. Formerly general manager of Rapaport China, he has over 20 years’ experience in the international diamond and jewellery industry. 郑嵘，行业分析师、项目专家与资深顾问。曾在北美和中国的钻石、珠宝企业任职，长期发展连接中国和国际市 场的项目，有20年以上的国际工作经验。曾任国际钻石价格表发布机构Rapaport中国区创始总经理。 Chow Tai Fook Store 周大福店面
FOCUS 16 | JNA May/June 2023 | Bernardette Sto. Domingo 杜明高 | Equipped with a robust economy alongside sustained competitiveness and government support, Dubai is further reinforcing its rising status as a global leader in the gem and jewellery trade. 迪拜凭借蓬勃的经济、持续竞争力与政府大力支持，正逐步跻身宝石及珠宝行业 全球领导者行列，并致力强化优势。 迪拜巩固新一代宝石及珠宝枢纽之地位 Dubai fortifies role as next gem and jewellery hub
焦点 JNA May/June 2023 | 17 Our biggest hurdle is the mindset of the trade. We need to adapt to the new speed of things. Continuous education is crucial. The best solution is a fusion between tried-and-tested ways and new technology. - Tawhid Abdullah, chairman of the Dubai Gold and Jewellery Group Dubai business district 迪拜商务区 The time is ripe for Dubai’s unprecedented rise as a major player in the international jewellery and gemstone industry. According to stakeholders, Dubai is favoured for its tax efficiency, financial and logistical infrastucture, product and price diversity, accessibility and solid government support – all pillars of a successful enterprise in any sector. Specifically, the city is diversifying its specialisation to become the next important coloured gemstone and jewellery destination while fortifying its status as a diamondtrading hub. What Dubai offers is a well-oiled system that fosters profitability and provides a platform for existing and new businesses, explained Tawhid Abdullah, chairman of the Dubai Gold and Jewellery Group (DGJG). A step in the right direction is the establishment in 2022 of a dedicated B2B sourcing event in Dubai – Jewellery, Gem and Technology in Dubai (JGTD), which is organised annually by Informa Markets Jewellery and Italian Exhibition Group Spa. The show’s second edition was held from February 12 to 14, 2023. “We were not successful in creating a B2B fair in the past. The Gold Souk served as our exhibition per se but JGTD is a different league of its own,” noted Abdullah. The international fair effectively upped the ante for Dubai in terms of attracting new opportunities and markets. Dubai is also attracting strong players in the global diamond and gemstone trade such as Fura Gems, Belmont Enterprises Ltd and KGK Diamonds and Jewellery LLC, to name a few, shared Ahmed Bin Sulayem, executive chairman of the Dubai Multi Commodities Centre (DMCC). In addition, the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) is opening a new laboratory in Dubai in 2023 through a subsidiary, GIA Laboratory DMCC. According to Bin Sulayem, GIA’s new facility will contribute immensely to the movement of polished diamonds in and out of Dubai. The International Colored Gemstone Association (ICA) meanwhile is planning to open a gemstone bureau in Dubai to promote gems to the Middle Eastern market. The city is also frequently holding ruby, emerald and sapphire tenders. Dubai is likewise aiming to gain traction in the labgrown diamond (LGD) space. This July, DMCC is hosting an LGD Symposium to discuss industry challenges and technological developments. Business muscle DGJG’s Abdullah said companies wanting to establish a presence in the Middle East will benefit from a new corporate tax regime enacted in December 2022, which stipulates that UAE businesses will be subject to a 9 per cent corporate tax rate beginning June 2023. “This means we have one of the lowest corporate tax rates in the region, which is crucial to facilitating business,” noted Abdullah. Dubai-based companies also cater to a wide range of buyers from the US, Europe and Asia who have varied consumer preferences in terms of design and price points.
FOCUS 18 | JNA May/June 2023 He added that customers mostly ask for certified diamonds of 2 carats and up as well as 10 carats to 15 carats. The most popular shapes are rounds, pears and marquis. Buyers from the Gulf Cooperation Council – Bahrain, Kuwait, Oman, Qatar, Saudi Arabia and the UAE – alongside India, Asia and Europe meanwhile are more interested in finished jewellery. “Design preferences differ for each market and companies have to fully understand the segment they want to focus on,” noted Garg. “KGK offers diamonds, coloured gems and finished jewellery. We can cater to a broad range of markets.” Ionnis Alexandris, antique jewellery expert and founder and CEO of Gemolithos, is also testing the Dubai market. “After Covid, there was a lot of talk about Dubai being the next big jewellery centre. We want to test this ourselves by networking and building our contact base first,” remarked Alexandris. The company official said Gemolithos’ hero collections comprising fine gemstones and jewellery has a potential market in affluent Dubai, including high-profile buyers, private collectors and big companies. “It will take time for us to truly know and understand the market but for now, it is very promising. Our target clientele is here,” he added. ICA President Damien Cody meanwhile expressed confidence that Dubai will rise to become an important hub for coloured gemstone trading, hence ICA’s plan to set up a gemstone bureau in the city. “Dubai is the go-to destination for diamond trading. We will work with the UAE government and DMCC to try and establish the same ecosystem for coloured gems,” revealed Cody. Sparkling future Abdullah of DGJG said his organisation is encouraging a new generation of jewellers and traders to join the industry. Startups can count on government support while organisations like DGJG can provide training in design and marketing as well as assistance in applying for government permits. Bin Sulayem of DMCC said Dubai is bent on strengthening its position as a leading hub for major commodities, including jewellery and diamonds. The key to Dubai’s efficacy is providing the right ecosystem for each business segment, including coloured gems and LGDs. “Back when LGDs did not have a home as no exchange would recognise them, we did not mind (welcoming LGD players in the Dubai Diamond Exchange) as long as they disclose properly and they focus on a different market,” explained Bin Sulayem. DMCC also hosted the ICA Congress 2023 in Dubai in February, which centred on opportunities and challenges in the gemstone trade. Bin Sulayem earlier said DMCC is eyeing to replicate its success with diamonds in the coloured gemstone segment by positioning Dubai as a preferred trading hub. Industry players India-based diamond manufacturer Shree Ramkrishna Exports Pvt Ltd (SRK) is upbeat about business prospects in Dubai – a new market for the company. SRK established an office in Dubai in 2022 to bolster its presence and support its expansion in the city, according to Shreyans Dholakia, brand custodian at SRK. “Dubai is increasingly growing. A great deal of people are migrating to Dubai and more people equates to more money flowing in the city,” remarked Dholakia. “The city is competitive and geographically accessible. It is a promising market.” SRK exhibited at JGTD 2023 for the first time where it entertained potential customers from Dubai, Doha, Bahrain, Switzerland, Singapore, Australia and Israel. Dholakia said SRK is prepared to meet strong market demand for fancy shapes, adding that this product segment comprises 50 per cent of SRK’s production. There is also solid interest in melees and stones of 5 carats to 7 carats. Post-Covid, the manufacturer started implementing a different business approach where it produces goods upon order as opposed to keeping stocks ready and offering them to buyers. Ashish Garg, head of sales at KGK Diamonds & Jewellery LLC in Dubai, also believes that Dubai is poised to become a major jewellery and gem-trading destination, thanks to its competitiveness and geographical location. Further expansion would mean new customers from Eastern Europe and Africa, among other markets, for Dubai-based manufacturers, added Garg. “Anything that is six hours away from Dubai should be our customer. That goes to show how accessible Dubai is. We would like to cater to this clientele,” noted Garg. 2024 Year when the United Arab Emirates takes over as chairman of the Kimberley Process 阿联酋接任金伯利进程主席国的年份 Gold Souk in Dubai 迪拜黄金市集
焦点 JNA May/June 2023 | 19 “We need new blood in the business and we need young people’s expertise in modern technology and social media. They know trends and what today’s buyers want,” added Abdullah. Looking ahead, Dubai faces challenges on many fronts, including gold price fluctuation, technological advancements and keeping up with fast-evolving trends. There is also pressure to constantly innovate and adapt to changes. “Our biggest hurdle is the mindset of the trade. We need to adapt to the new speed of things. Continuous education is crucial,” noted Abdullah. “The best solution is a fusion between tried-and-tested ways and new technology.” Bin Sulayem echoed this sentiment, adding that consumer engagement is going to be a crucial element of success in Dubai. The rise of social media platforms as well as other advanced applications like virtual reality alongside continuous education can be used to engage with younger buyers. “We need to listen to the new generation. It is also important to focus on small and medium-sized players and make sure the environment is attractive and welcoming to them,” he continued. “We do not just work with big corporations.” Moving forward, the success of the sector will hinge upon the narrative behind every jewellery, diamond and gemstone. Bin Sulayem said, “There has been a lot of story sharing – where did a stone come from and what does it contribute to the business? This resonates with the new markets.” 迪拜把握成熟机遇，进身国际珠宝和宝石行业的主 要地区之列。行业持份者指出，迪拜因其税收效 率高，金融和物流基础设施齐全，有多样化的产 品和价格，交通便利，加上得到政府的鼎力支持，因而备受 业界器重——以上的因素都是任何行业的成功支柱。 具体来说，该市正在实现专业范畴多元化，锐意成为下一 个彩色宝石和珠宝之都，同时巩固其钻石贸易中心的地位。 迪拜黄金和珠宝集团(DGJG)主席Tawhid Abdullah解释 说，迪拜拥有一个运作畅顺的系统，能促进企业的盈利能 力，并为现有和全新业务提供合适的平台。 2022年在迪拜首办的B2B采购盛事——迪拜珠宝首饰及 科技展(简称JGTD)，是朝着正确方向迈出的一步。该年度展 会由Informa Markets Jewellery和意大利展览集团(IEG)联 合主办。第二届已于2023年2月12至14日圆满举行。 Abdullah称：“我们之前并未成功举办专属的B2B展会。 某程度上，市内的黄金市集可说是一种展览形式，但JGTD 属于另一个层次的行业盛会。”这场国际博览会亦提升了迪 拜在业界的声誉，有利吸引崭新商机和市场。 迪拜多种商品交易中心(DMCC)执行主席Ahmed Bin Sulayem指出，迪拜成功吸引了Fura Gems、Belmont Enterprises Ltd和KGK Diamonds and Jewellery LLC等巨擘 纷纷落户。 与此同时，美国宝石研究院(GIA)将于2023年通过子 公司GIA Laboratory DMCC在迪拜开设全新鉴定所。Bin Sulayem表示，GIA的新设施将为迪拜的已打磨钻石行业作 出巨大贡献。 再者，国际有色宝石协会(ICA)正计划在迪拜开设宝石办 事处，借此向中东地区推广宝石。该市还经常举办红宝石、 祖母绿和蓝宝石招标会。 迪拜同样希望在实验室培育钻石(LGD)范畴提升地位。 今年7月，DMCC将举办LGD钻石研讨会，就着行业挑战和技 术发展议题进行讨论。 创造商业优势 DGJG的Abdullah表示，有意在中东开展业务的公司，将 受惠于2022年12月颁布的全新企业税项制度，条文列明阿 联酋将由2023年6月起征收9%企业税。 Abdullah说：“这意味着我们是区内企业税率最低的地点 之一，对于促进行业发展非常重要。” 扎根迪拜的公司为各类型的欧美和亚洲买家服务，迎合 消费者在设计和价格方面的不同喜好。 DMCC的Bin Sulayem表示，迪拜致力强化在主要商品类 别的贸易枢纽地位，其中包括珠宝和钻石。迪拜的优势在于 为彩宝和LGD等每个细分行业提供合适的生态系统。 Almas Tower in Dubai 迪拜阿勒玛斯大楼 Renata Sedmakova / Shutterstock.com US$37.4B 374亿美元 Dubai’s rough and polished diamond trade in 2022, up 17 per cent from 2021. This includes a 42 per cent rise in the polished diamond business 2022年迪拜毛坯钻石及已打磨钻石贸易额，比2021年 上升17%，其中已打磨钻石贸易额上升42%
FOCUS 20 | JNA May/June 2023 “从前LGD未被其他交易所承认，就像一个无所依从 的产品类别。但是我们不介意(在迪拜钻石交易所接纳LGD 钻石企业)，大前提是业者如实披露资料和专注于不同的市 场。”Bin Sulayem解释道。 DMCC还在2月于迪拜主办2023年ICA大会，聚焦宝石行 业的机遇和挑战。Bin Sulayem早些时候表示，DMCC希望将 迪拜定位为重点贸易枢纽，借此把钻石行业的成就复制到 彩宝领域。 业内参与者 印度钻石生产商Shree Ramkrishna Exports Pvt Ltd (SRK)现正进军迪拜市场，并对该地的营商前景表示乐观。 SRK品牌保管人Shreyans Dholakia透露，SRK在2022年 于迪拜开设了办事处，以提升其影响力，并支援品牌在市内 的扩展计划。 Dholakia称：“迪拜的发展欣欣向荣，而且有越来越多人 迁移至此，意味着有更多资金流入。迪拜竞争力强，地利优 越，是一个前途无量的市场。” SRK在2023年首次参展JGTD，接见了来自迪拜、多哈、 巴林、瑞士、新加坡、澳大利亚和以色列的潜在客户。 Dholakia表示SRK已准备就绪，满足市场对花式切割钻 石的需求，此类产品占SRK产量的50%。市场对米粒钻和5至 7克拉的钻石也兴趣甚殷。 在后疫情时期，这家生产商开始提供客制化服务，即根 据订单进行生产，而不是将既有库存供应给买家。 KGK Diamonds & Jewellery LLC的迪拜销售主管Ashish Garg也认为，该市凭借竞争力和优良的地理位置，有望成为 珠宝及宝石贸易之都。 Garg补充说，迪拜制造商进一步扩展业务，代表有机会 吸纳东欧和非洲等其他市场的新客户。 “任何距离迪拜六小时旅程以内的地方,将会是我们的 客户。这样进一步证明了迪拜四通八达的优点。我们希望拓 展这些客户群。” 他指出，该公司的客户大多采购2克拉或以上,以及10至 15克拉的认证钻石。圆形、梨形和橄榄形钻石均大受欢迎。 与此同时，不少地区的买家对成品首饰更感兴趣，包括 海湾合作委员会（巴林、科威特、阿曼、卡塔尔、沙特阿拉伯 和阿联酋）,还有印度、亚洲和欧洲。 “每个市场对设计的喜好各异，因此企业必须充分了解 其目标细分市场。”Garg说。“KGK提供钻石、彩色宝石和成 品首饰，市场非常多元化。” Gemolithos的创始人兼首席执行官Ioannis Alexandris是 一位古董珠宝专家，他也正在探索迪拜市场。 “疫情过后，人们热切期待迪拜成为下一个举足轻重的 珠宝中心。我们希望先通过建立人脉和联系基地，亲自探究 这一点。”Alexandris评论道。 他解释说，Gemolithos的核心系列包括优质宝石和珠 宝，在富裕的迪拜市场具有相当潜力，有可能会受到知名买 家、私人收藏家和大公司青睐。 “我们需要时间才能真正认识和了解这个市场，但暂 时来说前景不俗。我们的目标客户群就在这里。”他补充道。 ICA主席Damien Cody也对迪拜充满信心，相信将成为彩 宝贸易的重要枢纽，因此ICA正计划在该市设立宝石办事处。 Cody透露：“迪拜是钻石交易的首选目的地。我们将与 阿联酋政府和DMCC合作，尝试为彩宝行业建立相同的生 态系统。” 迈向闪亮未来 DGJG的Abdullah称，该机构鼓励新一代珠宝商和贸易 商加入行业。初创企业可受惠于政府的支援，而DGJG等业 内组织则提供设计和营销方面的培训，并协助企业申请政 府许可证。 Abdullah补充道：“我们的行业需要新血，需要年轻人在 现代科技和社交媒体方面的专业知识。他们对潮流趋势,以 及当今买家的需求有着透彻了解。” 迪拜未来将面临多方面的挑战，包括金价波动，同时必 须提升技术、跟上潮流、不断创新以及适应各种变化。 “我们最大的障碍在于行业心态。我们需要适应日新 月异的变化，持续教育是至关重要的一环。”Abdullah指出。 “最好的解决方案是将久经考验的运营模式与崭新技术互 相结合。” Bin Sulayem深表赞同，并指出迪拜的成功关键在于提升 消费者的参与度。社交媒体平台和虚拟现实等先进应用科 技之兴起，再加上持续教育，都能有效吸引年轻买家。 他补充：“我们需要聆听新一代的声音，也要关注中小型 企业的需求，为这些企业提供具吸引力和友好的营商环境。 我们不只是与大公司合作。” 展望未来，行业的成功将取决于每件珠宝首饰、钻石 和宝石背后的故事。Bin Sulayem说：“我们分享了許多故 事——宝石从哪里来？对行业有什么贡献？这些故事都能与 新市场产生共鸣。” Shoppers at a gold jewellery shop in Dubai 消费者在迪拜的黄金珠宝店内选购产品 8.4% Increase in the number of new companies that set up shop in DMCC as of the first quarter of 2023 截至2023年首个季度，于DMCC注册的新公司数目升幅 1,000 Number of member companies in the Dubai Diamond Exchange as of January 2023 截至2023年1月，迪拜钻石交易所的成员公司数目
ADVERTORIAL 22 | JNA May/June 2023 Huw Daniel, CEO of Platinum Guild International (PGI), reveals the organisation’s priorities, targets and strategies for the China market. How significant is the China market to PGI? China is the market with the largest volume for platinum jewellery. Globally, Japan is the largest per capita volume market for platinum jewellery, while the fast-growing market is India. But China remains a top priority for us because of the size of the business. PGI’s role is to help the trade with product and design innovation while engaging consumers to grow demand for platinum jewellery. Since wedding rates in China are dropping, we have adjusted our strategy to Bridal Plus, which extends beyond pure bridal to love-gifting purchases. Due to platinum’s image as a valuable, premium and everlasting metal, its heartland is love-gifting jewellery, which includes bridal, anniversaries and other highly emotionally charged occasions. We work with retailers based on their priorities, whether it is bridal or fashion-driven collections. As custodians of platinum, we support both markets. How have the Pt Moment® initiative and branded jewellery collections evolved over the years? PGI launched the Pt Moment® branded collection five years ago to encourage small and medium-sized retailers in China to integrate platinum into their business at a time when the market carried mainly generic products. Our goal was to show how branding could make jewellery more meaningful to consumers, achieve higher margins and improve inventory turnover. We started with five retailers with around 40 stores and now work with over 50 retailers with nearly 1,200 stores. Those partners have embraced the concept of branded collections and are even customising Pt Moment pieces and creating their own designs. PGI supports traditional and non-traditional jewellers in developing and marketing branded collections to help move the business from generic products to more differentiated offerings. Pt Moment targets the younger, self-purchase market segment, and its slogan – Tenacity powered elegance, emboldened by Platinum – reflects that young, confident, empowered women increasingly comprise the bulk of our customer base. New technological advancements also enable the production of fresher and unconventional designs for platinum jewellery such as enamel-accented pieces, gem-set items and lighter, electroformed jewellery. What are the challenges and opportunities for platinum jewellery in China? The immediate challenge for the entire gem and jewellery industry is getting consumers back in the stores and willing to spend again. Platinum, however, is an heirloom material that is cherished for its beauty, value, significance and everlasting nature. This appeals to consumers seeking meaning and certainty after the pandemic. Platinum’s price is also at a historically low level, enabling retailers to stock up on inventory of premium white metal jewellery. We are working with manufacturers in China to address previous casting concerns and develop more gem-set platinum jewellery to offer fresh design options. Moreover, only 18 per cent of global fine jewellery is branded; this figure is 15 per cent in China. The opportunities with branded collections are therefore endless. Huw Daniel, CEO of Platinum Guild International 国际铂金协会(PGI)首席执行官Huw Daniel Platinum leads innovation in the China market Platinum Guild International is reinforcing platinum’s positioning as the premier innovator in China with product, marketing and business innovations. 国际铂金协会(PGI®)正在通过产品、营销和商业创新，让铂金成为珠宝行业革新先行者。 铂金引领中国市场创新
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